Sure. I use the 24-color pack of Sharpies and do both color and black touch-ups. But, as I already mentioned, there are limitations on this method of touching up.
After doing a cleaning with ME and alcohol, there will often be small white dots and white hairline cracks in the color areas of the PF art. These blemishes are particularly noticeable in the darker colors. This happens when pinholes and cracks in the topcoat have gone all the way through, and the grime (marking) has been ground down into the ink layer. When you clean with ME and alcohol, it removes the marking from these areas but also removes the translucent colored ink, which in turn exposes the thicker base layer of opaque white ink.
These white pinpoints and hairline cracks can be effectively hidden with Sharpie ink, especially on the darker colors. Pick a cap color that is the closest color match to the PF but ALWAYS use a LIGHTER shade of Sharpie - the Sharpie inks go on much darker than the cap color! Draw the Sharpie ink over the pinpoints and cracks. While the Sharpie ink is still wet, rub the ink into the pinpoints and cracks with a clean cloth. Let the Sharpie ink dry for a minute or so. Then, use another clean cloth and Turtle Wax liquid polishing compound to remove all of the excess Sharpie ink.
The net result is that the Sharpie ink will work down into the hairline cracks and spots and it will stick to the base layer of white ink. Where the topcoat is still intact, the Sharpie ink won't stick and will be removed by the polishing compound. This will make the hairline cracks and spots virtually disappear.
As for the limitations (and other important details):
This method is most effective on white hairline cracks and white pinhole spots. It doesn't work very well on non-white blemishes, or on any larger areas needing more extensive touch-up.
ALWAYS do a test touch-up with your chosen Sharpie color on a small inconspicuous area of the PF first, and make sure you are happy with the result before applying that Sharpie color all over your PF. If you do accidently use a badly non-matching Sharpie color on the PF and you don't like the results, remove with ME and alcohol.
If the touch-up color seems too light after one application, you can usually darken it with a second touch-up application using the same Sharpie pen.
Where there are hairline cracks on a both a color area and some associated black keylines (such as "50 points" printed on top of a red background) you should only use the chosen color Sharpie to touch everything up. For the above example, you would use the orange-red Sharpie color to draw over both the red and black colors on the PF, and then use the polishing compound to clean off the excess Sharpie ink. The color ink from the Sharpie will effectively make the black area look intact again, and you won't need to deal with the problem of accidently contaminating your red color area with black Sharpie ink.
The above method can also be used to touch-up the black keylines around the inserts. Use the black Sharpie to fill in the white circular groove worn into the PF where the insert meets the playboard. Then remove the excess black Sharpie ink with a cloth and liquid polishing compound. The black Sharpie ink will fill in the white circular groove but will not stick to the insert or the undamaged part of the PF, and you'll have a pretty decent touch-up of your insert keylines.
If you keep your PF clean and waxed, the Sharpie touch-ups will last a few years. However, unless you put on a new topcoat, eventually the Sharpie ink will be worn away and you will need to re-do your touch-ups.