(Topic ID: 48808)

Best LEDs for inserts?

By Collin

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by OLDPINGUY
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 10 years ago

    Hey guys, I'm looking to do a (hopefully not too expensive) LED conversion for a lot of stuff on my Getaway, and also my Bad Cats inserts.

    What would you guys suggest as far as LEDs for inserts? I probably want to color match. What's going to look good, and hopefully not be TOO expensive?

    Also, may as well ask here - what would be good for the playfield GI on Getaway? I've gone with the warm white retros on Bad Cats for PF GI which I like, but wouldn't mind something that looks more modern for Getaway.

    #2 10 years ago

    CT frosteds

    #3 10 years ago

    Cointaker frosted for both GI and inserts?

    Any ghosting issues with those?

    #4 10 years ago

    I don't know aboot sys11 badcats...but I don't have any issues with ghosting underneath the PF on my machines.

    I don't do GI anymore...but Frosteds worked fine in the games I've done before. Some people like retros for for GI for a more "natural" look.

    #5 10 years ago

    I've used Cointaker Non-ghosting premiums for inserts on Drac, TZ, Shadow and many more to GREAT results.

    #6 10 years ago

    Sure those will work, but I would try frosteds first as they are cheaper.

    #7 10 years ago

    dumb question (as Im getting ready to order some leds as well):

    i thought frosted were preferred for GI and/or when the bulb was visible to the naked eye...

    I was assuming the standard CT super leds were OK for inserts?

    Also, 1-led bulbs OK or do most folks use the 2 or 3-led versions?

    I was about to order a full set for my NGG, so interested in the feedback..

    #8 10 years ago

    I found frosted LEDs to be too dark for my tastes for inserts. I used CT 170 degree wide LEDS for almost all my inserts and have been very happy with the results. They are not overly bright, but not as dark as frosteds either, a nice medium.

    Don't have too much of a ghosting issue either, which is nice. I think the worst I see it is on my FH on the mystery mirror. The Extra Ball bulb likes to stay lit all the time, just have been too lazy to try to figure out what is causing it.

    #9 10 years ago

    Frosted are great when you have a direct line of sight to the light because the frosting makes the light less harsh on the eyes. For inserts the light is passing through plastics so non-frosted LEDs work well and are likely a little brighter.

    #10 10 years ago

    My Fish Tales has the ones with the concave lens in a lot of the inserts; I thought the normal lenses or frosted were supposed to be better other than in specific applications. Is that not true?

    #11 10 years ago

    Frosted have worked out in all my Pins. I only use them in the inserts.

    Warm Whites for the following color inserts:
    -- Clear, Orange, Yellow.

    Color inserts that are better filled with color LEDs:
    -- Blue, Green, Red, Purple, Pink.

    #12 10 years ago
    Quoted from lowepg:

    i thought frosted were preferred for GI and/or when the bulb was visible to the naked eye...

    They are. I'm surprised so many people use them on this thread for inserts. Any LED I've tried for inserts other than non-ghosting usually flickers.

    #13 10 years ago

    I absolutely love the Optiflux for playfield inserts but they're expensive. Checkout Pinball Decals Inc site.

    #14 10 years ago

    Does nobody use the WPC / WPC95 Lamp Matrix Driver rom patch to eliminate flicker with their older games? I only ask because I was planning to patch my STTNG rather than paying for the non ghosting leds.

    #15 10 years ago
    Quoted from Meph:

    Does nobody use the WPC / WPC95 Lamp Matrix Driver rom patch to eliminate flicker with their older games? I only ask because I was planning to patch my STTNG rather than paying for the non ghosting leds.

    Shredso hooked me up with the non ghosting patch for all of my games, works great. You also need to change the dim illumination setting to off.
    I have used CT minis for inserts and I have been very happy with the results. If I have a multi colored insert (ADVENTURE inserts on IJ), I used white instead of the recommended green for this example. The green just drowned out the rest of the colors on the insert and it looked bad.

    #16 10 years ago

    So, looking at CT lights:

    Supers?
    Ultras?
    Premium 2-leds?
    170 degree?

    Wow- thats a lot of choices!

    I hear a lot of folks recommend cointakers leds, but which ones!

    #17 10 years ago

    Supers under inserts, colours to match inserts

    170 deg, for GI lights. And back box

    #18 10 years ago

    The NoFlix Plus LEDs from Germany are the best. The best doesn't come cheap though.

    #19 10 years ago
    Quoted from lowepg:

    So, looking at CT lights:
    Supers?
    Ultras?
    Premium 2-leds?
    170 degree?
    Wow- thats a lot of choices!
    I hear a lot of folks recommend cointakers leds, but which ones!

    I use Premium 2-LEDs for inserts. I find they have the best color temperature for cool & warm white. Frosted cool/warms are slightly "off" IMO. The 2-LEDs have a nice flat dome, so if they're too bright/blinding, I paint the top of the dome with a white paint pen....essentially making them a frosted but w/ better color temperature/vibrancy.

    #20 10 years ago

    I make my own LED boards for inserts in my System 80 games, they eliminate the need for sockets all together. Though it's a bit more expensive to do, I think they look good.

    #21 10 years ago
    Quoted from lowepg:

    So, looking at CT lights:
    Supers?
    Ultras?
    Premium 2-leds?
    170 degree?
    Wow- thats a lot of choices!
    I hear a lot of folks recommend cointakers leds, but which ones!

    Quoted from Ninefingers:

    They are. I'm surprised so many people use them on this thread for inserts. Any LED I've tried for inserts other than non-ghosting usually flickers.

    I use Frosteds in all my inserts...other than a kit I got for NF. I believe, going on memory here, Frosteds are just a Super with a dome on top. I have tried frosteds and super brights and you can't tell a difference. Plus, the frosteds work on inserts that are 90 degrees to the bulb, and supers don't...unless you get an angled super. You wanna know how I know? Cause BR told me that's why
    Used in TZ, DH, W?D, WH20, none of mine flicker. Now I was just told the other day that Sterns need a non flicker premium, but not the W/B I've done. Plus, they are cheap, and you can only order 1 kind instead of making it all confusing.

    Sure you can get premiums that cost more and you won't notice a difference, or just try some frosteds first. The only premiums I own are frosted premiums that go in exposed bulbs on top of the PF.

    You'll probably also want to try some Retros if you are doing GI...put a couple of retros vs. frosted in GI to see what you like.

    #22 10 years ago

    While we're on the subject, I absolutely HATE bulb condoms (not a big fan of real ones either, but that's between me and the lady). On both my TAF and FH, I've replaced them with colored 44/555s and really like the intended look -- especially on the FH as it gives that true carnival feel.

    With prices where they are now, I'm thinking of testing the LED waters as well. As there any that would replicate an exposed above-playfield bulb (including the brightness) without blinding the player?

    I realize that photographing bulbs is tricky except for an advanced photographer, but has anyone done a side by side of regular, super, ultra, frosted, 170, etc... showing various types and colors under inserts, in GIs, etc... There's so much personal taste and subjectivity here, and you can drop a pretty penny trying to buy a handful of every combination of type and color.

    #23 10 years ago
    Quoted from wxforecaster:

    As there any that would replicate an exposed above-playfield bulb (including the brightness) without blinding the player?

    Frosted Premiums for exposed condom bulbs. Premiums work also but the frosted make it look like a condomed bulb.

    #24 10 years ago

    I'm still experimenting, which is very difficult considering there are 20 types to choose from. #1 importance is to choose the bulb where the light spread covers the entire insert.

    Frosted seem ok, but in many inserts I can see the dome underneath. An alternative the bare Mini or Super SMD type bulbs seem to work well (former for smaller inserts, latter for larger). Adding a clear dome on top helps spread the otherwise directional light more than without.

    Also, non-ghosting lights are only needed in sockets when regulars ghost. That will save people a lot of money.. speaking of which Optiflux and NoFlix are nice, but are quite a bit more expensive than the standard 25-99 cent quality bulbs (with bulk discount).

    #25 10 years ago
    Quoted from wxforecaster:

    I realize that photographing bulbs is tricky except for an advanced photographer, but has anyone done a side by side of regular, super, ultra, frosted, 170, etc... showing various types and colors under inserts, in GIs, etc...

    If this helps, cointaker lists the brightness as follows, which should be applicable to other vendors which use similar bulb technology:

    1-led - 1.0x that of a regular bulb
    mini - 1.0x that of a regular bulb
    2-led - 2.0x that of a regular bulb
    super - 2.5x that of a regular bulb

    #26 10 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    An alternative the bare Mini or Super SMD type bulbs seem to work well (former for smaller inserts, latter for larger). Adding a

    Insert size for sure plays a role. The equipment inserts for my W?D for example I use minis becasue they are small and I don;t need them blown out.

    #27 10 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    If this helps, cointaker lists the brightness as follows, which should be applicable to other vendors which use similar bulb technology:
    1-led - 1.0x that of a regular bulb
    mini - 1.0x that of a regular bulb
    2-led - 2.0x that of a regular bulb
    super - 2.5x that of a regular bulb

    Glad you posted this. I was assuming 2-led were brighter than supers...

    Where did you find this info? CTs website could use a FAQ! Or perhaps it's there and I just didn't find it.

    #28 10 years ago

    My 2 cents guys....

    First, so many games over so many years. There are many differences in inserts, when making comparisons......
    First, clean your inserts on older games. Q-tips, and cleaner.
    The second difference is older games inserts are now somewhat "frosted" from ball wear, compared to new inserts, so a major appearance difference here, and the same title from game to game based on this wear.
    Electrical current in your house or game has an affect as well, they vary. Daytime viewing, ambient lighting and ones eyes.
    The size of the insert, the color, the age, and the manufacturer.
    Lastly is your taste. Muted, average, or over the top.

    Some small inserts do well with a single LED, frosted for less brightness, or clear for brighter.
    After all, the insert is a lens. So if you have an older game with worn inserts, you may want a brighter bulb. Where as someone with a less routed game, will choose different.
    A frosted single SMD is an excellent choice. It may be that you want brighter, so a single SMD no lens. As the insert grows in size, you may want a 2-SMD or 4 SMD.

    Color insert matching is correct as well as with white.
    So a red insert can get red or white.
    Amber insert, white or amber,
    yellow...same.

    White inserts are where you personalize your game...Cyans, Purple, Green, multicolor, etc....

    I find that having the 2 types of LED's, frosted white and clear are an inexpensive and needed bulb in my box. Just for cost. One can use all frosted SMD bulbs for a nice glow....others 4 smd everywhere to blind.

    We all have different tastes, and different ideas as to whats right for ourselves.
    Have the variety, experiment, and enjoy adult pinball Lite Bright!

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