I would do Comet frosted above playfield and clear under. I color match under except use warm white under yellow. Above I used frosted colors that matched original colors. I never use kits.

I like Perfect Play rubber. Titan rubber is also recommended. Many nice colors to choose.

skip the kit .... buy the warm white frosted for GI ... I color match under the playfield , and surprisingly I use pink under ornge to get a crisp orange color

No kits.
Warm Comet frosted 47s & 555 packs

Don't buy a kit. Kits are for suckers and they almost always look like clown puke garbage.

Go to comet, buy a bunch of 2smd sunlight LED's for the GI. Buy 1 SMD or Retro bulbs in sunlight for the backbox (or you can use the 2 SMD I just like dimmer bulbs in the backbox so I get less glare). Then you can either color match the inserts (use pink or warm white under orange and yellow, do not use orange or yellow LED's, they are DIM) with 2 SMD bulbs, or take the easy way out and buy all warm white 2 smd bulbs for under the inserts. Both will look great! Pretty much only use frosted bulbs for everything.

Forget the kit.

Can anyone confirm number of each type of bulb? Manual is not always correct based on experience.

Color DMD's are always great if you can justify the cost.

2 SMD comet frosted warm white for all GI sockets. Only thing you need for every game in your collection. I buy them by the 1000's. If you feel the need to use color behind inserts. Color match with 1 SMD frosted. You don't want inserts overly bright.

I typically do 2smd frosted lens gi and 1smd clear lens inserts. I do color match inserts except for orange/yellow where warm looks better. I highly recommend using flex leds for inserts with bulbs not pointing directly at inserts like mini pf. You can point these leds where you want so you can better control the lighting. They also make good spotlights in tight spaces. Look through Comet's website. Lots of cool stuff.

Colordmd's is nice but it's up to you on whether having color is worth the cost. One advantage is that it does not use high voltage like the dmd display. IMO, the ocd boards are a more worthy upgrade. They allow dimming for leds and fix all issues with flickering and ghosting. Not only that but allow customizing brightness of each bulb.

Fo sho

I would and I did. both my Indiana Jones and TZ have them and my Who Dunnit next.

Color DMD is great in TZ. Mine was set on small dots.

I’ve a bunch of 90s pins and always resisted leds because I like the warm feel of incandescents however some good advice in this thread and I’m going to sample the warm white frosteds for gi and see how I like it. Ones I’ve seen I am not sure what they are using. I also really dislike the ball trail effects I see with some leds. Is that what “non ghosting” is meant to address?

Not knocking incandescent bulbs... but the upside is lower heat.lower power draw. And having that one bulb that you can never access in the corner go out five minutes of you completed your shop job .

You should swap one over to W?D now, some of the best dots ever!

This can be an eyesight issue to be honest.
Much like the 'Screen door effect' some eyes can be affected diff'rently.
I've only seen ball trails on 1 machine in decades

Do it and don’t look back.

Ghosting is when a led bulb never completely turns off. Bulbs will be slightly lit when they should be off. Non ghosting bulbs solve this by adding resistor that requires higher voltage to turn on bulb. Flickering is caused by games dimming effects. Leds cannot handle the way incandescent dims and rapidly turn on and off. Fix for that is turning off dimming effects and power saving mode. If you get ocd boards, it solves all these issues and you get stock dimming effects.