(Topic ID: 95074)

Best Glue for clear plastic ramp cracks?

By boneman91

9 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by LEE
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

I'm restoring my Corvette machine, and it has several cracks in the clear plastic ramps. The pieces are all there, nothing is broken completely off. I'd like to glue up these cracks before a piece does break off. I can actually gently open up the cracked pieces to get some glue on the edges. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions besides good ol' epoxy or CA. I'm guessing plastic model glue won't be strong enough. The ramps aren't super visible, but will be seen, so I want to do it as cleanly as possible.

Thanks for any advice.

#3 9 years ago

that Tenax looks like a good candidate, another might be model aircraft finishing resin epoxy, is really thin and light, dries to be pretty clear too. its a VERY slow cure but grabs tight once it gets there.

#4 9 years ago

I only use Ambroid Pro Weld on plastics. Takes just a little for a solid fix.

#5 9 years ago

+1 on the ambroid pro weld. It's thinner than other solutions and will seep down into the crack better. It also can be purchased with a nice applicator for controlling flow. If you've never done this before one big caution is to not wipe off any excess glue, it will craze the surface of the plastic. Use the corner of a paper towel and wick off any excess.

#6 9 years ago

Plastic Surgery is a good glue for ramps as well.

#7 9 years ago

Don't know whether this is available in the US : Technicoll 118. A very thin fluid wich repairs cracks and glues broken ramps within seconds.

#8 9 years ago

So I bought the Tenax from my local hobby shop and gave it a try. I can't believe that the Ambroid is any runnier than the Tenax. It ran like water. Seems to be holding well. Was about 5 bucks, much cheaper than the Ambroid and I could get it locally. Still trying to perfect my technique and keep it where I want it....

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from boneman91:

So I bought the Tenax from my local hobby shop and gave it a try. I can't believe that the Ambroid is any runnier than the Tenax. It ran like water. Seems to be holding well. Was about 5 bucks, much cheaper than the Ambroid and I could get it locally. Still trying to perfect my technique and keep it where I want it....

A syringe or a pipette.

#10 9 years ago

I used a little plastic pipette that I bought at the same time as the glue. The pipette tended to leak at the wrong moment. I'm gonna try a syringe next.

#11 9 years ago

Looks to me like Tenax contains cyanoacrylates. The stuff super glue is made from. I have found(as others have too), that Super Glue, one day is neither super or glue anymore. Not a permanent repair.

#12 9 years ago

I have had much better results and long lasting repairs using a two part methacrylate.

You can even remake missing sections of plastics with them.

I guess that I should post a pictured tutorial someday.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from fish1975tx:

Plastic Surgery is a good glue for ramps as well.

Plastic surgery is clear and wicks right in, it's avialable at ACE Hardware and doesn't need a special applicator.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from LEE:

I have had much better results and long lasting repairs using a two part methacrylate.

What product do you use?

#15 9 years ago

I get it through a distributor in my line of work. I believe that you can find it here;
http://tinyurl.com/o4kbhx6

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from LEE:

I get it through a distributor in my line of work. I believe that you can find it here;

I was curious if you where talking about Plastex. I've used it to rebuild broken tabs on plastic ramps (see article below), but have not tried it on cracks. If you've had any luck using it with cracks, it would be great to see any photos you might have.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/ramps-and-plastics/179-repairing-broken-ramp-mounting-tab

#17 9 years ago

Here's a slingshot plastic I repaired probably 15 years ago. It is clear and strong repair. I can still flex it and it didn't re-break unlike older repairs which have been made with cyanoacrylates.

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