Ghostbusters (Pro)
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Massively helpful thread for me already. I’m embarking on operating adventure. I’ll be ordering a Mars DBA for a TWD. Any install tips/pics (like the few above! Wonderful!) that save me time would be appreciated, otherwise I’ll put my time in by looking in the manual. Thanks.
Quoted from LTG:Turn game off. Remove plate on door. Remove any other screws in the way. Set switches on validator. Stick validator on and fasten where nuts or screws fit. Plug validator in. Turn game on. Stick in a dollar bill and see if it gives the right amount of credits.
Nothing hard. 4 screws or nuts to secure. One plug.
LTG : )
Thanks, your authority suggesting it’s simplicity sounds good to me. by switches you’re referring to dip switches like user Bud above: all on except 3,7,8 correct?
Quoted from sandersj:"what Ken said" I have over 20 refurbed AE2411's in Sterns on location. They work well.
AE2411 works in both SAM and SPIKE1/SPIKE2 ?
(sorry for noob questions, gotta start somewhere)
Quoted from Coyote:Yeah, they also do real well in WPC games.
ok great, thanks everyone. I've ordered a Mars AE2411 and will be installing in a few days when it arrives. Cheers! -KG
Quoted from KenLayton:Yup, perfectly fine.
Getting back to this- I kept meaning to ask... what about the two different plate sizes on the coin doors for older SAMs vs newer SAMs/Spikes? My DBA finally arrives today and I’ll be tinkering, for size, fit, with it on a small opening MET and a large opening BM66 before taking it to my loc for real where I have a large opening TWD. Seems weird that AE2411 Mars could fit in both?
Quoted from LTG:Turn game off. Remove plate on door. Remove any other screws in the way. Set switches on validator. Stick validator on and fasten where nuts or screws fit. Plug validator in. Turn game on. Stick in a dollar bill and see if it gives the right amount of credits.
Nothing hard. 4 screws or nuts to secure. One plug.
LTG : )
Plug validator in you say... all I see on my Mars AE2411 is a one connector for a several pin setup, male on the validator. It’s nothig like the two prong extra power cable that ships with the game. Should there be a loose female connector on my machine that fits into the side of the Mars AE2411 ? If so I haven’t seen it yet. This is with testing on my BM66 Spike. I can also test on Met and Tron which should more closely resemble my TWD . This is all for making sure it works before taking to location. Thanks.
Dang. Never easy. Surprised that didn’t come up earlier in the thread. Ok can someone please link me to exact harness needed for AE2411 on SAM? (TWD)...
Dr Wily is the link you provided valid?
Do I need that for every machine that I put a Mars AE2411 DBA into whether SAM/SPIKE?
Quoted from Dr-Willy:the harness i linked to above will work for your validator although you might beable to find it cheaper then that. Im guessing it didnt come up earlier cause when you buy a validator new it comes with it, but if buying used they can be missing sometimes.
Every machine you plan to put a validator into will need the validator harness and validator. If you plan to just move the validator from one machine to the next as your rotate the pin out you will only need one harness (just move it with the validator)
Makes a lot of sense. Thanks. About to order multiple as I’ll need multiple.
Quoted from ATLpb:Makes a lot of sense. Thanks. About to order multiple as I’ll need multiple.
Actually I’ll be honest. I’m baffled. Here’s what I have. The only insertion/connection point I can see on my acceptor assembly is a lot more male pins than what’s on the harness from Wily link. However I do see how the pins and adaptor from Wily link are keyed, does that mean you put connect at one end where it is keyed and leave several pins exposed?
(Yes I’m wearing pants)
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Quoted from ATLpb:Actually I’ll be honest. I’m baffled. Here’s what I have. The only insertion/connection point I can see on my acceptor assembly is a lot more male pins than what’s on the harness from Wily link. However I do see how the pins and adaptor from Wily link are keyed, does that mean you put connect at one end where it is keyed and leave several pins exposed?
(Yes I’m wearing pants)
If someone could take detailed pics of their mars DBA attached to both a late model SAM and a Spike, I’ll donate to them. This is driving me nuts trying to guess what I need...
Quoted from KenLayton:Bill acceptor power cable is Stern # 036-5700-10 (N281743-01).
The cover on the power box in the backbox must be temporarily removed to access the the power connection for one end of the bill acceptor power cable. Be sure to replace the cover when finished.
Ok so on Spike you use the supplied black two prong cable. Connect to exposed two prong at front left of cabinet, run thru cabinet, and into power in the head, and then you also need a Wily adapter, which plugs into loose 9 pin (3x3 shape, square bordered) that’s exposed on the coin door and then plugs into keyed end of the DBA itself?
Am I warm?
On SAM, you skip the two prong part and only use the 9 pin 3x3 square to connect using a Wily adapter ?
Warm still? Or Brain dead, why is this guy even into pinball? 
Ok here is the one Wily linked yesterday, it’s labeled 24v but looks identical to the one Ken just linked?
Yestersay’s, which I ordered already:
Thanks so much Ken, Willy (ha! I spelled it correctly for once), and Lloyd. PM me and I can gladly show my appreciation via donation.
Lastly (I hope... I bet I’ll be back regarding dip switches... but anyways...)- what is this other 9 hole/pin connector for in the cabinet of SAM games?
Ok so I’ve put a DBA into my MET at home for testing purposes before taking to TWD on location. Good news is that the acceptor is taking my dollars. But some questions. To test I set the standard adjustment in the settings to ‘yes’ for ‘bill validator’ I then confirmed the pricing was set to factory default of $1.00 1 credit and $2.00 3 credits. And of course I turned Free Play off.
- when I put my first single dollar bill in. It ate it right up, however it gave me 6 credits.
- I then went into the pricing option under standard settings and switched to USA9 which is $1.00 per game straight up. With that setting it was giving me 4 credits per dollar inserted.
- in standard adjustments there’s a setting for bill validator. Does it matter? Do I need it set to ‘yes’? I ask because it doesn’t seem to matter, these 6 and 4 credit behavior seem to be occurring even if the bill validator setting in menus is set to ‘no’
?
Note. It’s a Mars AE2411 and the 8 switches are all on except #3 and #8
Quoted from LTG:All that happens when you set the "YES" for bill validator, you get the message on the screen.
You need to set the switches on the validator itself to get the right clicks for paper money. Harness enable you want. Set pulses to one for a dollar and try that. Or find a manual for that model and set accordingly.
Anytime you want to change a setting. Turn game off. Change switch. Turn game on.
LTG : )
Here’s what it is and how I had it. I should have also noted that the validator was flashing green arrows on the front.
I tried it again with switch 8 turned ON for harness enable and the validator wouldn’t work at all. No flashing arrows and no money grabbed.
Looking for a manual now too...
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Edit:
Holy cow do I feel stupid. I’ve looked at this thing for a week or so and never noticed switch 7 is pulses per dollar. Trying again now. Jeeezus.
Yup it was switch #7. I’m golden now!
DBA’s... the only mod that pays you back 
First one going into the wild tomorrow morning! These will help my relationships with my partners who are reluctant to fumble around with quarters.
Quoted from KenLayton:Be sure to use a 500 bill capacity magazine or less so that you can close the coin door!
I believe I’ve just run into a clearance problem when attempting to move a Mars from a Spike into a SAM. I have a Mars AE2411 U5 and it isn’t clearing on my Tron- but did clear on my BM66.
I should be able to simply get a smaller capacity magazine to ensure Tron clears?
Quoted from KenLayton:A 500 bill capacity stacker is too big. Get a 200 or 300 capacity stacker (a.k.a. bill box or magazine).
Good deal. On it. Thanks.
Ok guys, I'm back. I've got a situation. I've got AFM LE Remake out there now. I've got the proper bill acceptor as determined by the instruction manual. The 12v Mars AE2654. I've got it properly physically connected to the game with 9 pin connector. My problem now is that I can't figure out how to get it actually working while installed. There are 8 dip switches on the dollar unit itself. I've tried several combos of those (always enable harness, etc.; Vending vs Gaming for switch #8) and even found some menu settings in the regular Bally Williams settings. No success. Curiously, the dollar unit did power up and initialize a couple times for 5-10 seconds while I was messing with it, but definitely wasn't reliably staying on. The seller of the dollar unit says I might be losing 12v power from the game to the acceptor. Hard to imagine on this brand new reconstructed title? Anyone know the exact settings/configurations needed? I've posted on Chicago Gaming website too but haven't heard back in a few days so I'm also posting here.
Please, any thoughts?
Thanks.
Quoted from Coyote:With the bill acceptor plugged in, and game in T.1 Test Mode, does a dollar bill inserted cause one of the COIN switches to activate?
You want Always Enable on, Gaming mode. Depending which coin switch they wired it the coin output to, you may need 1 or 4 pulses per dollar. The rest of the switches (on the DBV) are up to you.
Thanks I can try again tmrw morning. Stay tuned.
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Atlanta, GA