Actually I’ll be honest. I’m baffled. Here’s what I have. The only insertion/connection point I can see on my acceptor assembly is a lot more male pins than what’s on the harness from Wily link. However I do see how the pins and adaptor from Wily link are keyed, does that mean you put connect at one end where it is keyed and leave several pins exposed?

(Yes I’m wearing pants)

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If someone could take detailed pics of their mars DBA attached to both a late model SAM and a Spike, I’ll donate to them. This is driving me nuts trying to guess what I need...

Ok so on Spike you use the supplied black two prong cable. Connect to exposed two prong at front left of cabinet, run thru cabinet, and into power in the head, and then you also need a Wily adapter, which plugs into loose 9 pin (3x3 shape, square bordered) that’s exposed on the coin door and then plugs into keyed end of the DBA itself?

Am I warm?

On SAM, you skip the two prong part and only use the 9 pin 3x3 square to connect using a Wily adapter ?

Warm still? Or Brain dead, why is this guy even into pinball?

everything here is correct. They make different harness for the validators that make them do different things. for what you are needing to do you only need the small ended harness not the one that connects to all of the pins. some pins are left exposed. Ill take a pic of one when i get home from work, i think i have about 10 dba's laying around with harnesses attached to them.

Here is the harness you need:

ebay.com link: ONE NEW MEI Mars 2000 series 110 Volt Bill Acceptor Validator Harness NEW

Brand new bill acceptors are supposed to have this in the box.

Ok so:

24 volt harness for SAM
110 volt harness for SPIKE

?

no 110 for both.

Here is the SAM system ( Wheel Of Fortune ) Sorry I don't have a Spike to show you. Should be the same thing plus the 110 cable that came with the game.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : I need to get a Spike game to help with questions.

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Ok here is the one Wily linked yesterday, it’s labeled 24v but looks identical to the one Ken just linked?

Yestersay’s, which I ordered already:

ebay.com link: i

thats my bad, i didnt see it was labeled 24v, you need 110v harness, they are different.

Thanks so much Ken, Willy (ha! I spelled it correctly for once), and Lloyd. PM me and I can gladly show my appreciation via donation.

Lastly (I hope... I bet I’ll be back regarding dip switches... but anyways...)- what is this other 9 hole/pin connector for in the cabinet of SAM games?

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Not necessary. Glad to help.

Check wire colors in manual or contact Stern, no idea.

LTG : )

It goes to a Tournament control circuit board for the optional tournament kit.

Ok so I’ve put a DBA into my MET at home for testing purposes before taking to TWD on location. Good news is that the acceptor is taking my dollars. But some questions. To test I set the standard adjustment in the settings to ‘yes’ for ‘bill validator’ I then confirmed the pricing was set to factory default of $1.00 1 credit and $2.00 3 credits. And of course I turned Free Play off.

- when I put my first single dollar bill in. It ate it right up, however it gave me 6 credits.

- I then went into the pricing option under standard settings and switched to USA9 which is $1.00 per game straight up. With that setting it was giving me 4 credits per dollar inserted.

- in standard adjustments there’s a setting for bill validator. Does it matter? Do I need it set to ‘yes’? I ask because it doesn’t seem to matter, these 6 and 4 credit behavior seem to be occurring even if the bill validator setting in menus is set to ‘no’

?

Note. It’s a Mars AE2411 and the 8 switches are all on except #3 and #8

All that happens when you set the "YES" for bill validator, you get the message on the screen.

You need to set the switches on the validator itself to get the right clicks for paper money. Harness enable you want. Set pulses to one for a dollar and try that. Or find a manual for that model and set accordingly.

Anytime you want to change a setting. Turn game off. Change switch. Turn game on.

LTG : )

Here’s what it is and how I had it. I should have also noted that the validator was flashing green arrows on the front.

I tried it again with switch 8 turned ON for harness enable and the validator wouldn’t work at all. No flashing arrows and no money grabbed.
Looking for a manual now too...

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Edit:

Holy cow do I feel stupid. I’ve looked at this thing for a week or so and never noticed switch 7 is pulses per dollar. Trying again now. Jeeezus.

Yup it was switch #7. I’m golden now!

DBA’s... the only mod that pays you back

First one going into the wild tomorrow morning! These will help my relationships with my partners who are reluctant to fumble around with quarters.

Try it with 7 - OFF and 8 - ON

Manual won't tell you more than the sign on the side of your validator. 7 & 8 are the ones to play with. The others set which way bills are accepted. Up, down, left, or right. Switch three takes a lot of bills, or gets fussy and doesn't take as many. I set mine to OFF, never had a phony bill yet. 4,5,6, which bills you want it to accept. ( assuming it is updated for latest bills, otherwise ones only )

LTG : )

Actually, a correction for those following on older games..
In WPC games, at least, that setting also sets the configured coin slot for the DBA to accept a faster coin switch pulse rate. (Some models of acceptor don't have a fast/slow setting like the MEI validatiors do, and when sending 4 pulses per dollar, or accepting a $t or $10, coin pulses could be missed, not awarding all credits.)

Lots of talk for Mars/MEI

For ICT would the following model be plug and play for a modern Stern?

A613-FCP-US4
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/bill_validators/42-3701-00

Thanks!

Spike system you'll need the 110AC cable Stern sent with the game. Goes from validator to power supply in the head.

LTG : )

I believe I’ve just run into a clearance problem when attempting to move a Mars from a Spike into a SAM. I have a Mars AE2411 U5 and it isn’t clearing on my Tron- but did clear on my BM66.

I should be able to simply get a smaller capacity magazine to ensure Tron clears?

A 500 bill capacity stacker is too big. Get a 200 or 300 capacity stacker (a.k.a. bill box or magazine).

Good deal. On it. Thanks.

Ok guys, I'm back. I've got a situation. I've got AFM LE Remake out there now. I've got the proper bill acceptor as determined by the instruction manual. The 12v Mars AE2654. I've got it properly physically connected to the game with 9 pin connector. My problem now is that I can't figure out how to get it actually working while installed. There are 8 dip switches on the dollar unit itself. I've tried several combos of those (always enable harness, etc.; Vending vs Gaming for switch #8) and even found some menu settings in the regular Bally Williams settings. No success. Curiously, the dollar unit did power up and initialize a couple times for 5-10 seconds while I was messing with it, but definitely wasn't reliably staying on. The seller of the dollar unit says I might be losing 12v power from the game to the acceptor. Hard to imagine on this brand new reconstructed title? Anyone know the exact settings/configurations needed? I've posted on Chicago Gaming website too but haven't heard back in a few days so I'm also posting here.

Please, any thoughts?
Thanks.

With the bill acceptor plugged in, and game in T.1 Test Mode, does a dollar bill inserted cause one of the COIN switches to activate?

You want Always Enable on, Gaming mode. Depending which coin switch they wired it the coin output to, you may need 1 or 4 pulses per dollar. The rest of the switches (on the DBV) are up to you.

Thanks I can try again tmrw morning. Stay tuned.

I eventually got my 12v dollar acceptor working on AFMRLE by ordering a brand new harness from a supplier.

Thanks to this thread and a little trial and error, I’m pretty much all set with DBAs!