I have no idea what I'm doing . Whats the best type of dollar bill validator for GB pro?
ICT upstacker. Check if you need a 12 volt DC one or 110 volt AC.
Probaly either, though you need to run the extra cable that came with the machine for 110 AC from the acceptor to the bottom of the power supply.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:ICT upstacker. Check if you need a 12 volt DC one or 110 volt AC.
Probaly either, though you need to run the extra cable that came with the machine for 110 AC from the acceptor to the bottom of the power supply.
LTG : )
Ask and ye shall receive, thanks Lloyd!
Quoted from LTG:ICT upstacker. Check if you need a 12 volt DC one or 110 volt AC.
Probaly either, though you need to run the extra cable that came with the machine for 110 AC from the acceptor to the bottom of the power supply.
LTG : )
It is a 110 volt AC power for a bill acceptor in that machine.
Quoted from KenLayton:It is a 110 volt AC power for a bill acceptor in that machine.
You sure Ken ? GB is SPIKE, and there is 12 volts DC at the harness, and a cable comes with the game to run from the harness to the power supply for 110 AC.
LTG : )
I ran a 110v MEI 2000 series upstacker with the cable to the power box in in head on my GB premium. All dip switches on except 3,7,8
Quoted from LTG:You sure Ken ? GB is SPIKE, and there is 12 volts DC at the harness, and a cable comes with the game to run from the harness to the power supply for 110 AC.
LTG : )
I'll double check Saturday morning with my voltmeter. I've got a GB Pro in right now for a software update and bill acceptor install.
The harness in the machine brings power to pins 4 and 6 of the bill acceptor connector. Those are the usual pins for 120 volts AC power connections.
Quoted from KenLayton:'ll double check Saturday morning with my voltmeter. I've got a GB Pro in right now for a software update and bill acceptor install.
The harness in the machine brings power to pins 4 and 6 of the bill acceptor connector. Those are the usual pins for 120 volts AC power connections.
Someone rewire it ? Or 4 and 6 might not go anywhere unless the extra cable is added.
Thanks Ken.
LTG : )
Pins 4, 6, 7, and 8 are the only pins populated in the 9 pin connector in the particular GB Pro in for software updates and bill acceptor installation.
Confirmed with a meter this morning. Pins 4 and 6 are 120 volts AC on the 9 pin bill acceptor connector in the machine. Pins 7 and 8 are the credit switch output.
Quoted from KenLayton:Confirmed with a meter this morning. Pins 4 and 6 are 120 volts AC on the 9 pin bill acceptor connector in the machine. Pins 7 and 8 are the credit switch output.
Did your game come with the extra harness to run into the bottom of the power supply in the head ? Or is it installed ?
LTG : )
Quoted from KenLayton:Confirmed with a meter this morning. Pins 4 and 6 are 120 volts AC on the 9 pin bill acceptor connector in the machine. Pins 7 and 8 are the credit switch output.
Do you know if the game came that way ? Or did someone rewire it ?
I ask because some SPIKE games have the extra cable in the cash box to run to the power supply for 120 VAC
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Did your game come with the extra harness to run into the bottom of the power supply in the head ? Or is it installed ?
LTG : )
I can tell you that I had to install the cable from the power supply in the head to the front of the game in my GB Pro. Otherwise I didn't have 120 volt. Had to do that with KISS and GOT, too.
Mars has worked well for me.
Quoted from LTG:Do you know if the game came that way ? Or did someone rewire it ?
I ask because some SPIKE games have the extra cable in the cash box to run to the power supply for 120 VAC
LTG : )
I know the guy who owns the machine. It came with the 9 pin connector installed and a 2 wire cable with 2 pin connectors on each in was inside the cashbox all coiled up. I had to plug in one end of the cable to the connector inside the power box in the back box. I slipped the cable into the various cable clamps on the side of the cabinet and then plugged it into the mating 2 pin connector by the coin door hinge. This provides the 120 volts AC to the bill acceptor pins 4 and 6 of the 9 pin connector.
Bill acceptor power cable is Stern # 036-5700-10 (N281743-01).
The cover on the power box in the backbox must be temporarily removed to access the the power connection for one end of the bill acceptor power cable. Be sure to replace the cover when finished.
Bill acceptor power cable (resized).jpg
BA power cord label (resized).jpg
BA power cable plugged in power box (resized).jpg
Quoted from Bud:I ran a 110v MEI 2000 series upstacker with the cable to the power box in in head on my GB premium. All dip switches on except 3,7,8
Model AE2411 is a good one. Be sure the dip switch setting for "Harness enable - Always enable" is set to always enable.
Quoted from KenLayton:Bill acceptor power cable is Stern # 036-5700-10 (N281743-01).
The cover on the power box in the backbox must be temporarily removed to access the the power connection for one end of the bill acceptor power cable. Be sure to replace the cover when finished.
Thank you Ken, I've only read about this. Clears things up with the pictures.
LTG : )
Quoted from sandersj:"what Ken said" I have over 20 refurbed AE2411's in Sterns on location. They work well.
Be sure to use a 500 bill capacity magazine or less so that you can close the coin door!
"What ken said again", I was able to get 300 note stackers from the ebay vendor I get my refurbed units from.
Quoted from ATLpb:Any install tips
Turn game off. Remove plate on door. Remove any other screws in the way. Set switches on validator. Stick validator on and fasten where nuts or screws fit. Plug validator in. Turn game on. Stick in a dollar bill and see if it gives the right amount of credits.
Nothing hard. 4 screws or nuts to secure. One plug.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Turn game off. Remove plate on door. Remove any other screws in the way. Set switches on validator. Stick validator on and fasten where nuts or screws fit. Plug validator in. Turn game on. Stick in a dollar bill and see if it gives the right amount of credits.
Nothing hard. 4 screws or nuts to secure. One plug.
LTG : )
Thanks, your authority suggesting it’s simplicity sounds good to me. by switches you’re referring to dip switches like user Bud above: all on except 3,7,8 correct?
Quoted from ATLpb:by switches you’re referring to dip switches like user Bud above: all on except 3,7,8 correct?
There are switches on one side of the bill validator. Refer to the manual that comes with it, for what you set yours too.
LTG : )
Quoted from sandersj:"what Ken said" I have over 20 refurbed AE2411's in Sterns on location. They work well.
AE2411 works in both SAM and SPIKE1/SPIKE2 ?
(sorry for noob questions, gotta start somewhere)
Quoted from ATLpb:AE2411 works in both SAM and SPIKE1/SPIKE2 ?
(sorry for noob questions, gotta start somewhere)
Yeah, they also do real well in WPC games.
Quoted from Coyote:Yeah, they also do real well in WPC games.
ok great, thanks everyone. I've ordered a Mars AE2411 and will be installing in a few days when it arrives. Cheers! -KG
just curious has anyone else had that issue with the bill acceptor hitting the coin box on Williams/bally games?
don't remember If I asked this or not. I finally just tilted the coin box and put a towel under the backside. Don't have this issue with any other games, only Bally/Williams MMR, CP, NGG currently. I guess mainly wpc95, about to install one on a TOM so we'll see.
AFMR, spike , sam and JJP installed with no problem.
Mars AE2600 upstacker, with a 300 bill mag in the Williams.
Quoted from hocuslocus:just curious has anyone else had that issue with the bill acceptor hitting the coin box on Williams/bally games?
don't remember If I asked this or not. I finally just tilted the coin box and put a towel under the backside. Don't have this issue with any other games, only Bally/Williams MMR, CP, NGG currently. I guess mainly wpc95, about to install one on a TOM so we'll see.
AFMR, spike , sam and JJP installed with no problem.
Mars AE2600 upstacker, with a 300 bill mag in the Williams.
I've had this issue a couple times back in the 90's, when I had games out on location.
I fixed it by loosening up the coin-door bolts, and lifting the coin door a fraction of an inch, then screw the bolts/nuts back on tight. Obviously, that may not fix yours, but it's something to check.
Quoted from Coyote:I've had this issue a couple times back in the 90's, when I had games out on location.
I fixed it by loosening up the coin-door bolts, and lifting the coin door a fraction of an inch, then screw the bolts/nuts back on tight. Obviously, that may not fix yours, but it's something to check.
I'll give it shot, appreciate it.
Quoted from ATLpb:AE2411 works in both SAM and SPIKE1/SPIKE2 ?
(sorry for noob questions, gotta start somewhere)
Yup, perfectly fine.
Quoted from hocuslocus:just curious has anyone else had that issue with the bill acceptor hitting the coin box on Williams/bally games?
don't remember If I asked this or not. I finally just tilted the coin box and put a towel under the backside. Don't have this issue with any other games, only Bally/Williams MMR, CP, NGG currently. I guess mainly wpc95, about to install one on a TOM so we'll see.
AFMR, spike , sam and JJP installed with no problem.
Mars AE2600 upstacker, with a 300 bill mag in the Williams.
Yes, I generally remove the metal lid from the cashbox to allow the bill acceptor to clear. In some instances I also have to cut away about a 4" strip at the top left of the plastic cashbox. I use tin snips for that, but a friend did his with a Sawzall.
Quoted from KenLayton:Yes, I generally remove the metal lid from the cashbox to allow the bill acceptor to clear. In some instances I also have to cut away about a 4" strip at the top left of the plastic cashbox. I use tin snips for that, but a friend did his with a Sawzall.
Always wondered if I was doing something wrong, I spent the better part of 2hrs on my first Williams game trying to get the DBA to fit.
Didn't seem to make sense why they would give it that much clearance. I'm guessing they didn't have to install bill acceptors back then in the 90's.
Quoted from hocuslocus:I'm guessing they didn't have to install bill acceptors back then in the 90's.
Up to the operators.
My first one was TAF - I had to put a different door on it. Door that came with my TAF didn't have the panels to remove for a validator.
Every new pin coming in since then gets a validator.
LTG : )
Quoted from KenLayton:Yup, perfectly fine.
Getting back to this- I kept meaning to ask... what about the two different plate sizes on the coin doors for older SAMs vs newer SAMs/Spikes? My DBA finally arrives today and I’ll be tinkering, for size, fit, with it on a small opening MET and a large opening BM66 before taking it to my loc for real where I have a large opening TWD. Seems weird that AE2411 Mars could fit in both?
Quoted from ATLpb:Getting back to this- I kept meaning to ask... what about the two different plate sizes on the coin doors for older SAMs vs newer SAMs/Spikes? My DBA finally arrives today and I’ll be tinkering, for size, fit, with it on a small opening MET and a large opening BM66 before taking it to my loc for real where I have a large opening TWD. Seems weird that AE2411 Mars could fit in both?
Older SAMs and earlier games (WPC, Segas, DEs), the bottom mounting hole which is smaller than later doors, requires a bezel that is 'compact'. This includes the Compact Upstacker (1), Armored Compact Upstacker (4). The number I gave there is the third number in the model. (i.e. 241x or 244x). The smaller upper hole on the smaller doors fits the VFM style faceplate for MEI/Mars. ('AL4 & VFM Downstacker, 243.)
The newer doors have a single plate on the bottom, that is larger than the bottom plate listed above. This fits the standard vending faceplate, and can support the multifunction faceplates (credit card swipe, high visibility, NFC, etc). (I don't have the listing of the model numbers for the larger hole, unfortunately.)
it does, think it just depends on what type of bezel you went with. they come with different stickers for different places to let the customers know what bill the dba accepts, plus one might fit slightly better then another. If you got the wrong bezel you can swap them out.
but the model number for you DBA should of been AE2411 U5E
the compact bezel is the one with the square face for the bigger opening. I've put the compact bezel in the sam system's as well with no issue.
the pics below are one using a vfm5s bezel and one using the compact bezel. notice the opening is bigger for the compact.
personally for pins I go with all compacts, just so I can swap them out.
bill (resized).PNG
Compact (resized).jpeg
VFM (resized).jpeg
Quoted from hocuslocus:the compact bezel is the one with the square face for the bigger opening.
The full Bezel list from MEI is below, I compiled this from their support documentation over the years:
Bezel Type (*1) -
0: VFM Upstacker
1: Compact Upstacker
2: Flush Mount Upstacker
3: AL4 & VFM5 Downstcaker
4: Armored Compact Upstacker
5: Fitted Upstacker
6: Combo Upstacker (Side Swipe)
7: Dual Opening - Compact
8: Compact Downstacker
9: Combo Upstacker (Front Swipe)
A: 4-in-1 Bezel, No Setback
B: 4-in-1 Bezel, Setback
C: VFM High-Visibility
D: Compact High-Visibility
E: CVS Downstacker (EU Only)
F: CVL Downstacker (EU Only)
G: 4-in-1 (CA Only)
H: 3-in-1 VFM
J: Fitted Upstacker - Clear
K: ? (Quoted from MEI's own document.)
L: Easichoise4 (US Only)
M: Easichoise4 (CA Only)
Quoted from Coyote:The full Bezel list from MEI is below, I compiled this from their support documentation over the years:
holy shit, that's a lot of bezels.
curious do you know if you can add a high visibility bezel to a ae2600 or is that only for the vn2700 series? those look so nice, I had one on one of my vending machines, problem was people kept jamming it with their credit cards at least once a week. blew my mind that people thought that the bill slot was the same as a credit card slot. they felt pretty stupid when they came back to retrieve their card after I cleared it.
also another quick question is there another DBA door you can get for games like paragon? I haven't tried to fit one, I know it has a lot more carriage bolts. was thinking I could use a standard Williams or stern door and drill and square out those holes to fit it. sorry to keep high jacking this thread GB people.
Quoted from hocuslocus:holy shit, that's a lot of bezels.
curious do you know if you can add a high visibility bezel to a ae2600 or is that only for the vn2700 series? those look so nice, I had one on one of my vending machines, problem was people kept jamming it with their credit cards at least once a week. blew my mind that people thought that the bill slot was the same as a credit card slot. they felt pretty stupid when they came back to retrieve their card after I cleared it.
Yeah - the high visibility ones can fit any model, even a 2400. However, the lamp effect will default to the default/initial effect/color, since the earlier models don't have the programming capability of it, nor the ability to display the bill amounts accepted. So it'd be really limited in functionality, but it would fit.
Send me a PM with your email. My file has a lot more information that just those bezels that you may find useful.
Quoted from LTG:Turn game off. Remove plate on door. Remove any other screws in the way. Set switches on validator. Stick validator on and fasten where nuts or screws fit. Plug validator in. Turn game on. Stick in a dollar bill and see if it gives the right amount of credits.
Nothing hard. 4 screws or nuts to secure. One plug.
LTG : )
Plug validator in you say... all I see on my Mars AE2411 is a one connector for a several pin setup, male on the validator. It’s nothig like the two prong extra power cable that ships with the game. Should there be a loose female connector on my machine that fits into the side of the Mars AE2411 ? If so I haven’t seen it yet. This is with testing on my BM66 Spike. I can also test on Met and Tron which should more closely resemble my TWD . This is all for making sure it works before taking to location. Thanks.
the validator has a harness that plugs into it, then that plugs into the plug in the pinball machine. Sounds like you are missing the validator harness.
edit: it looks like this
Quoted from ATLpb:It’s nothig like the two prong extra power cable that ships with the game. Should there be a loose female connector on my machine that fits into the side of the Mars AE2411 ? If so I haven’t seen it yet. This is with testing on my BM66 Spike.
That game uses a 12 volt bill validator, the two prong one goes back to the power supply in the head for 110AC. And you need Dr-Willy's harness for the validator to plug into the 9 pin one inside the game.
LTG : )
the harness i linked to above will work for your validator although you might beable to find it cheaper then that. Im guessing it didnt come up earlier cause when you buy a validator new it comes with it, but if buying used they can be missing sometimes.
Every machine you plan to put a validator into will need the validator harness and validator. If you plan to just move the validator from one machine to the next as your rotate the pin out you will only need one harness (just move it with the validator)
Quoted from Dr-Willy:the harness i linked to above will work for your validator although you might beable to find it cheaper then that. Im guessing it didnt come up earlier cause when you buy a validator new it comes with it, but if buying used they can be missing sometimes.
Every machine you plan to put a validator into will need the validator harness and validator. If you plan to just move the validator from one machine to the next as your rotate the pin out you will only need one harness (just move it with the validator)
Makes a lot of sense. Thanks. About to order multiple as I’ll need multiple.
Quoted from Coyote:but it would fit.
Send me a PM with your email. My file has a lot more information that just those bezels that you may find useful.
Guess I'll try it, as I have two extra ones since I changed those bill acceptors out with CC readers now. And will do.
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