I like the concept, but kinda dont see how someone with one hand can attach it themself. a simple push rod (across the glass) and cantilever (like teeter totter) could work, all mechanical to do away with the servo lag. the simplicity of that naturally puts the opposite side button topside of the machine's button, but right or left handed is a simple 180 flip and ready to use.

not criticizing Ben's effort, its a darn nice idea! suction cup mounting is great, I'm thinking mechanical would have a better tactile feel, no sensor-servo-battery or lag, just a 3/32 or 1/8 push rod to kinda ignore when playing, plus - when mounted it wouldnt really be in the way for another player taking turns, when the cantilever would sit wide open.

yes, exactly what I'm thinking, keeping it straight up simple mechanical. I can only imagine what it'd be like with only one hand to work with, trying to place a device onto a pinball machine. push rod simple could possibly need only one suction cup each side. two units could give access to magna-save buttons?

I get what you're saying herg, if the cantilever is very close to equal, difference in button throw would be pretty minimal, there would be a little extra weight (not much for being lateral) for the push rod, which -might- require a light pressure return spring. a couple grams or less if the rod slips freely.

Whysnow, nope you're not missing anything and I'd though of button location for Ben's sketch-diagram, could be solvable with adjustable height hinge pin for the cantilever (got the clear pic in my head anyway). what I dont have is suction cups and 3D printer or sheetmetal working tools to actually build functional prototype. thick sheet could allow banging them out quickly in a punchpress but that'd also require tooling (blank, pierce, form) that 3D printing wouldnt. about best I can do here is sketch up a rough in MS-paint (eek!), but it'd be a startpoint for someone to continue with at least.

a simple button actuator.JPG

this is what my simple mind see's, it can reverse right or left. rod guide on button side could sit lower, so the button can hang down a little lower than the cartoon shows. the button box shallow so it isnt a huge step from the machines button to the cross-side actuator button.

across the distance (20" about), a little un-parallel wouldnt be a huge issue if the rod guide has some clearance. at the receiving end a wingnut adjusts length, a pin adjusts "teeter-totter" cantilever for different machine button height. the pad right of the suction cup keeping the inverted L shaped body tight to the side of the machine, with the line of the rod itself keeping it all straight.

this just "chicken-scratch" diagram yup.. but you can maybe see the potential for two units, one to make magna-save available for the opposite side. if the spot below where the rod's wingnut is were hinge pinned the action might be a little lighter, or if the pushrod is small enough diameter it'd be able to flex a little while still being strong enough to push the flipper button through the cantilever..
(1/16 or 3/32 maybe?)

dont get me wrong, Ben's plenty cool! he mightta overcomplicated a GREAT idea, or maybe I oversimplified? if a one handed person were playing against someone, there should be room to easily pop it forward-away an inch from the button itself. the actuator button right over the machine's button shouldnt be a problem.

well dang.. I sure wasnt trying to be a thread killer! it was kind of a rule with machining, if you can do it with a drill press then use a drill press, not a Bridgeport (they cost so much more). I really like Ben's idea and intent, just think simpler could be easier to produce and have a better feel for someone who'd be using them. maybe someone can relate, build and test it? I dont have access to the toys (machines being toys to build more toys!) to whip it up.

another possibility that might be tidier, is using a long section of larger model aircraft cable and "like" control horns, where the cable would drape down instead of a push rod across the glass. the possible problem with that might be some slop between the cable and its sleeve. same and moreso for bicycle control cables, theres adjusters for it, but it might not give the same tactile feel and have more drag than the simpler push rod arrangement.