Fuses come in all sorts of styles. The only way to know for sure is to remove it and test it for continuity with a meter. After that, make sure the fuse holders are tight, I fought with an issue for months because the fuse was loose in the holder.

And you have to remove the fuse from the game. A cheap meter can be like $30 and can solve tons of issues.

I didn’t believe this for about a year or two first starting. I always thought “nah you can tell if you look closely”
Till sure enough, the day... or rather week came that I fought with my Night Moves and it wouldn’t power on. I was so confused, thinking I destroyed it. I checked all the fuses, no obvious blow outs or burns. Usually you can see right where the wire burns inside them. I chased down everything and pulled boards.
Finally I rechecked the fuses but with a METER this time. Sure enough a MINT shiny clean fuse was bad. I broke it open and found it had blown was up in the metal cap so you would have never seen the broken wire.
Always check the fuses with a meter to be certain!

Sometimes it really is just a fuse!

Do you have "electron vision"? I know I don't.

if it is the flashers, they only come on during certain times during the game or during test mode.

If it is the GI circuit (smaller bulbs}, the most likely cause of them not working is a bad or burnt connection that you will find at the lower left of the driver board. Very common problem and the fix is a new connector and new pins.

Hard to tell from the photo because of glare from the light.
I assume you're referring to the 4th fuse which is newer than the rest and looks to have been replaced at one point.
If so it looks like it's probably blown to me.
The filament in the middle is a thin wire strip that melts and pops the fuse when it overheats to prevent damage elsewhere.
It looks like there's a ball of metal on the filament which is where it would have melted and failed, but like I said its hard to tell from the photo.

Like others have said get a meeter and test it (its an essential tool).

If it is blown:
Since you know that fuse has already been replaced once as the other ones have oxidation and this one looks newer I would check to make sure you have the right amp fuse installed when you replace it.
If the previous owner just threw any old fuse in there it may not have been the sufficient amps and that could be a reason it failed.

If you replace the fuse with the correct amp fuse and it blows again you have other issues that are causing it to blow.

Those "big" bulbs are 906 flashers. They aren't part of the GI circuit. Use test T.5 to test the flashers. Don't forget to close the coin door to close the high voltage interlock switch which is required for testing flashers on DCS machines and later.

That's a regular GI bulb. I'd pull it from the socket and "bend" the wire leads so that they make better contact with the contacts in the socket. You can wiggle the bulb and see if it lights up. Also to exclude a bad bulb swap it with another bulb that is good.

F114 is the fuse for +18V (controlled lamps) and +12VR (switch matrix). It's not related to the GI circuitry.

Yes. The game does this.

It is common on WPC games to have one or more flashers connected to a single drive transistor. The manual says that solenoid 20 will flash one under the playfield and two in the backbox. Check page 3-9 of the manual.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/861/Williams_1992_Fish_Tales_English_Manual.pdf

Lesson learned-Always check the bulbs first then the fuses, especially on those flasher bulbs since operators never replaced them once they burned out.

John