(Topic ID: 17235)

BBH making the buck more sensitive

By Eskaybee

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pinicus
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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#19 8 years ago

I just thought I'd throw in my 2-bits on adjusting the buck. First off, thanks to Dave for the starting point.

I didn't have a phillips to bend, but I did find that I could get to the screws from the underside of the playfield with #0 Phillips screw driver.

#0 Phillips screwdriver from the underside#0 Phillips screwdriver from the underside

Through trial and error, I realized that mine needed to be adjusted so that the center post is almost touching the surrounding metal at the rear. Here is a picture. It looks a little closer than it ended up being because if you push on the post, the spring evens it out a little. I'd say it is about half to three quarters of a millimetre (whatever that is in imperial) away from the post at the rear. It's close!

Post adjusted. It is very close to the surrounding metal. Less than =<1mmPost adjusted. It is very close to the surrounding metal. Less than =<1mm

Here is a shot of what the nuts look like. I had to loosen the rear ones until they were flush with the ends of the screws. I also had to loosen off the front ones a tad so that the spring was able to push the platform up.

Rear nuts loosened until flush with screws. Be sure that the platform raises up: you'll likely have to loosen the front ones about half a rotation.Rear nuts loosened until flush with screws. Be sure that the platform raises up: you'll likely have to loosen the front ones about half a rotation.

I used some electrical tape and another bolt to repeatedly test the unit. This meant that I didn't have to put the nuts back on until I was happy with the sensitivity. The tape kept the screws from dragging on the playfield. I'd suggest starting where mine worked and tighten the bolts until you get it to your liking instead of the other way around.

My test unit with electrical tape and spare bolt.My test unit with electrical tape and spare bolt.

In the end, all you need is the #0 phillips, a ratchet-driver and something to force the screws away from the playfield. I used a little nail puller to give the screws some pressure so that I could work with them.

The tools I used.The tools I used.

Knowing what I know now, this 2-hour+ adjustment would take 20 minutes tops! The buck now registers all relatively light hits, but, to my surprise, it still won't drop with really light shots, which is exactly what I wanted! If you're not a good shot with your single ball buckshot, you really shouldn't drop a deer, now, should you?

2 years later
#25 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Trying to adjust buck on this friggin bitch, jesus impossible to reack the rear under-screw..
And suddenly this white wire is loose... where does this go?[quoted image]

Why do you have it all apart in the first place??

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Ya i have never pulled it completly apart either. I did what was recommended earlier in the thread. I took an old screw driver and bent it. And i just leave it in the coin box all the time.
I find when adjusting you dont get a judgment of any adjustment until it is fully re assembled

Agreed. It gets quicker as you repaeat the process though!

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Okay.. To be able to adjust the plate above the spring inside the brown housing, you need to screw off. And its possible, but insanely troubelesome getting to the innermost screw below the buck. But managed to do it. But yeah the wire was loose, and I finally found out that it is supposed to be fastened to the screw beneath metal rod. So everything must off, and extended the wire with a yellow wire(since the original was too short now) and tried to wrap it around the screw and then tighten.
So more fiddling, managed to get sensitiviy good, but then when putting back the housing, it is too tight and always stuck again. Then after some tries and fails, it ends up being always on, and this is due to the wire fastened to the metal rod touches close to the metal casing around the rod(or the vertical plates below), and when opening it up the wire got loose again:
Sigh.
Any good tips on how to fasten the wire to the screw in an effective way?
Also...is there something which is broken on the brown plate where the rod is fastened? It seems like some platic stuff broken around the screw.
As mentioned, the wire was loose so It had to be taken apart to be fastened again.
Having a tournament this weekend, aah..stressing to get it done
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I don't have that game anymore (miss it, but it needs code!), but I think that looks normal. The wear is from the spring, I think. How was the wire originally connected? If there is a zone of the screw that doesn't require the threads, I'd hit it with some flux and see if it will take some solder. It probably won't, but it won't hurt to try. You could also consider one these or a similar strategy:

serveimage (resized).jpgserveimage (resized).jpg

#30 5 years ago

double post

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