(Topic ID: 276486)

Baywatch lights out!!! Please help.

By Dubofsky

3 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Dubofsky
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#1 3 years ago

Baywatch assistance requested!!!
I have a Baywatch and half of the backbox lights (right side, facing game) are out, and all of the feature lights, except for the independently controlled Lite Shark and Lite Orbit lights. GI lights working. We checked the fuses, and reset all of the edge connectors (even though we didn’t know which one was associated with the problem we had). There are no broken lights. Can some please provide some insight - and I acknowledge there may be two different independent problems I have to work. This is an absolutely beautiful, very low use HUO game (278 plays) - all original including the batteries (not corroded, and will be replaced) and original non-LED lights. Thank you for your help!

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#2 3 years ago

Look in your manual and figure out what lamps are out. Could be a general illumination string or a controlled lamp row or column. Lamp matrix may help you. Schematics should also be helpful.

#3 3 years ago

Check J5 on the Printed Power Board located lower left in back box for burnt connector. Also there is a connector that near the door itself left side of head. I 've had these burn up on Lethal Weapon 3.

#4 3 years ago

Check the wires in this connector. Pretty sure I had the same issue and I had a wire or two become dislodged. Sorry for the blurry pic.

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#5 3 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

Check the wires in this connector. Pretty sure I had the same issue and I had a wire or two become dislodged. Sorry for the blurry pic.
[quoted image]

Forgot Sega opened to the right..

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from chad:

Forgot Sega opened to the right..

They just had to try something different.

#7 3 years ago

Thank you all that responded.

The J5 on the Printed Power Board did have a burnt connector, just as Chad said to look for. In fact, the edge connector pulled the straight pin out of the circuit board when we disconnected the connector. Not pretty. Do you have recommendations for the repair? I really haven't done anything like this before, but am willing to try.

Again, thanks for all who responded!

#8 3 years ago

I've had to remove the header, clean up real good. Sometimes having to stitch traces with copper wick ( flat braided copper used in desoldering) use a meter to check for proper continuity. New header, molex housing and pins should do the job. .156 is the size for the header and pins.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Dubofsky:

The J5 on the Printed Power Board did have a burnt connector, just as Chad said to look for. In fact, the edge connector pulled the straight pin out of the circuit board when we disconnected the connector. Not pretty. Do you have recommendations for the repair? I really haven't done anything like this before, but am willing to try.

Do you have soldering equipment and know how to use it well? I wouldn’t try learning on a repair like this.

If you decide to send it out for repair ChrisHibler or Borygard are both great options.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Do you have soldering equipment and know how to use it well? I wouldn’t try learning on a repair like this.
If you decide to send it out for repair chrishibler or borygard are both great options.

This 100%. Good soldering iron. Destroying your stuff is never fun. Don’t ask me how I know.

#11 3 years ago

I've got the board out, and the pictures show the damage. If I were to try this myself, would you suggest removing the entire receptacle from the back of the circuit board? Do I replace the entire Molex (or just cut the Molex and add a new two-pin part Molex)? How do you remove the melted plastic from the top surface of the circuit board? Do you see any damage to the traces?

Again, you guys are great! Thanks for getting me this far!

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#12 3 years ago

G-P-E should have what you need https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

I’d replace the burnt pin, the plastic header, and the whole connector. You’ll want the correct punch down tool, don’t use whatever screwdriverish thing you have handy. Inspect the other pins closely. If they have the plating worn off replace all of them.

If you overheat the board trying to desolder parts damage is likely. Be careful. Good luck.

#13 3 years ago

In order to do this properly with minimal damage you need a desoldering pump. Removing the header pins with just an iron isn’t a good idea. And you should replace the entire connector with a molex. The IDC connectors are terrible for GI.

#14 3 years ago

Personally I would replace that idc connector with a molex one.

#15 3 years ago

Awesome - thank you to everybody for your advice! I will update you on how it progresses.

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