(Topic ID: 33977)

Baywatch Club....Members Only!

By dnhayden

11 years ago


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#66 9 years ago

If anyone in the club wants out, I am casually looking for a BW in WI area.

3 weeks later
#74 9 years ago

I am still looking for a BW in the WI area with a decent pf and for a reasonable price. Dirty is fine so long as the price matches. Happy to pay for a clean example also.

3 months later
#87 9 years ago

Maybe try and see how many here would commit to buying?

Then let Cliff know the numbers...

I am in for a set of protectors for BW!

1 week later
#94 9 years ago

I have been thinking of fixing my cab with this upgrade

baywatch.jpgbaywatch.jpg

2 weeks later
#98 9 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

If someone can send me (pm) accurate measurements I will draw up and put them up on here as a file that people can get them made or make your self.
- rectangle size
- radius size
- dividing lines
- triangle size - length of each side
- height of triangle from the bottom

Hey Swinks, curious if anyone ever got you this info and if the drop target decals were ever remade?

I will be starting a full teardown on mine and need decals. I can possibly get a scan of my old ones if that helps

#99 9 years ago

here is a image of the plastic over the drop target that I have attempted to start cleaning up.

I plan to use this to help remake a new plastic for my cracked/missing parts one.

Baywatch plastic.jpgBaywatch plastic.jpg

I would enjoy if someone else could share the drop target sticker images

#103 9 years ago

I am not sure how to measure a radius but here are the other measurements
Baywatch drops.jpgBaywatch drops.jpg

#105 9 years ago

THANKS!!!!

#107 9 years ago

I unfortunately do not have a set of calipers (ordering them now) but it black lines are all the same width of a tick mark on my tape measure. Estimate as 1/32?? hard to estimate as I need a better measurement instrument.

If you want to wait till I have better precision when my calipers arrive that is coll also. I just appreciate you doing this!

#109 9 years ago

looking good!

thanks for sharing your talents and the effort!

#112 9 years ago

Thanks. I can try and print on Sunday when I get to the printer.

I assume I can just cut the radius myself by hand and should turn out fine.
If I can get a rounded edge one and a tip on what material to print I am happy to make up some extras for other owners.

#115 9 years ago

Looks GREAT!!

Thanks VERY much.

I will print in a few and let you know/confirm how good they look!

#118 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I'm working on a Baywatch project now as well and currently have the playfield plastics and ramps removed. Have yet to finish up posts and metal bits, then I will start cleaning. Whysnow thanks for the images, those will really come in handy. The game I'm working on is in pretty good condition with only a small amount of wear outside the shark hole from the ball rebounding when it is kicked out. I have plenty of shop out photos so far and if you have any questions I can post them. And I am also doing the DMD Extender on this game as well. And I might put caker137's EngerGI Maestro board in it... either that or Frankenstein (whichever is most obnoxious with LEDs in the GI).

Great stuff.

Sounds like I am on the same page as you. Planning a full tear down and refurb on my game along with new DMD extender and also the light engergi thing! If you have the chance it would be great to scan all the plastics while they are off the game. I am sure they could be useful to have for others as well. I think the rest of mine are good but not sure.

Let me know if you have any questions along the way or have trouble with putting anything back together and I can take photos for confirmation.

#120 9 years ago

on that note, can anyone recommend a good scanner at a decent price?

I probably should start a seperate thread but since we are on the topic...

#122 9 years ago

And it begins...

PF pulled out of cab and in the rotisserie.

PC281208.JPGPC281208.JPG

Gonna tear is all down and rebuild in the next month or so.

Thinking I will get the wireforms powdercoated or replated loacally.
What color/s do you think I should go for?

#125 9 years ago

So you like BOLD for the powder?

I was thinking since this game has so much wire to maybe do the dark blue that is at the back half of the pf. Try to pop but not stand out.

Any other thoughts?

#132 9 years ago

looking good Crash.

I am a little behind you. Wireforms are back from powder and I have been busy completely stripping topside and polishing pf. All parts from top have been tumbled, sonicated, and rebuilt and resleeved topside coils. I am about 80% repopulated on topside and done for the day.

Sat morning I will be busy picking up a new pin, but then hope to start digging into the bottom side and stripping everything in the afternoon.

I will post some photos once I have the topside all repopulated.

#134 9 years ago

drop target images printed perfectly.

Here is a file with it replicated a bunch of times. I figured if I am going to print them I should do an entire sheet.

If anyone knows where I can get them printed on a decent replica of the sticker paper then please tell me. My local kinkos only had thin label paper. For now I printed on card stock and plan to affix and then mylar over, but sure would be nice to get some actual stickers printed.

Baywatch drops 600dpi100percent print.pdfBaywatch drops 600dpi100percent print.pdf

#135 9 years ago

I also finished cleaning up the plastic image for above drops. I flipped it and it prints nicely on transparency. I figured it may take a few attempts to affix to actual plastic so I also set it up in replicate.

I will probably make a few of these drops to have some spares.

Hoping I can find someone with a laser cutter to make these as it would be easier then by hand with skillsaw and dremel.
I tried to upload the image but file it too large for pinside.

#137 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I started using a different type of sticker paper, can't remember the brand. I think it's 3M

Those look GREAT! Can you possibly dig up the type of sticker paper and link it?

I will print some extras if needed and can mail off a set to you.

#139 9 years ago

I assume it is intact. it looks just like in that photo, a half moon.

#141 9 years ago

I am currently hunting for a scanner (been waiting for a HP scanjet 4600 or 4670 to pop up as many have said it is good, but no luck yet). I can scan for you as soon as I get a scanner to use.

#143 9 years ago

ok, I will get you a photo in a bit, pf is currently upside down while I rebuild all mechs (my least favorite part).

#145 9 years ago

LMK if you need some more

P1041297.JPGP1041297.JPGP1041293.JPGP1041293.JPGP1041286.JPGP1041286.JPG

#147 9 years ago

any update on correct sticker paper to print to?

thanks

#149 9 years ago

Started repopulating remainder of topside last night. Hope to get wireforms back on in the next day or so.

I need to start cleaning up the inside of the cab also. I may just do a half ass touchup to some of the inside cab walls and then clean it up more when I can work outside (too damn cold now).

I am anxious to get this back together so I can then start working on the DMD extender.

#152 9 years ago

I can check slings for you later. Heads up that I think bayarea has many of the plastics available if needed in 1 off?

#153 9 years ago

Still some to do but wanted to share a quick photo of wireforms back on before heading out to play some pinball on route.

P1061299.JPGP1061299.JPG

#156 9 years ago

Thanks guys.

I actually think the wireforms look SO much better like this then stock brass (apparently gold zinc in reality according to my powder guy)

Crash >> drop target plastic is 3.8 x 2.2 at widest x tallest points if that helps?

I can try to make you an extra if you want? Will take a little bit but I can try.

#159 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

The Iron Man and shark shot lamp condoms should be yellow and blue respectively.

Thanks for the info. Just used what was on there. Where do I find condoms at?

Quoted from Andrzej:

Those wireforms looks awesome. Can you please share the color powder coat used?

Thanks. I honestly have zero idea what the exact color or powder brand is. I went in with my stripped pf and sorted through a couple hundred samples to find something that I thought looked good to my eye. I wanted blue but not too dark as I felt the pf already had lots of dark blue and I wanted to wireforms to not be distracting so I picked something more int he sky/lighter hue with tonal similarirites to the other blue/green hues in the pf. This powder also has a less shiny finish which I wanted.

#164 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Whysnow did you happen to come across this piece? I don't think I saw that one during my teardown.

missingplastic.png 62 KB

maybe under the gaurd shack? I can check when I get home.

#165 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Whysnow did you happen to come across this piece? I don't think I saw that one during my teardown.

missingplastic.png 62 KB

That plastic goes on the pf back board. Affixed to upper right side with 2 short #6 hex head fine thread.

#168 9 years ago

now I need some help.

Where does this bracket go and how? photo would be best

I have it as being labeled with the back panel for pf and I assume it goes behind a ramp to keep air balls form getting stuck or to support a ramp???

P1071305.JPGP1071305.JPG

#171 9 years ago

Thanks EricR. That is what I assumed was the spot. I appears to keep balls on the track with a too quick launch? I guess. Wish I had realized and had it powder also. Oh well, not noticable from player POV anyway.

#175 9 years ago
Quoted from cait001:

Thanks for all the work on the plastics and drops scans, everyone! Is anyone going to be producing copies?

Thanks for photo confirmation.

I have extras of both the drop target stickers and will be making extras of the plastic over the top of the drop targets.

#177 9 years ago

If you want to document color display ad it is appreciated as I plan to install also and I know you have done it a few times now.

#182 9 years ago

new plastic I made for myself. Not perfect but not bad for the first one.

P1151322.JPGP1151322.JPG

P1151320.JPGP1151320.JPG

I already have clear cut and more transparencies already printed. Just need to paint the back of the transparencies white and affix to plastics. I want to make a better plastic for myself with a different affixer (used a spray on glue but has some bubbles, gonna try some varathane or liquid laminate glue next time).

I also have a bunch of drop target stickers since I printed a whole sheet.

In the spirit of giving back, I am willing to give a plastic and set of drop target stickers to any baywatch club members that show evidence of being in need. Upload a photo of your broken plastic or sorry looking stickers that you are wanting to replace and them pm me with your address. I will ship out when I have them done.

I will leave this offer open for a few days as I want to know how many I need to make of the finished plastics.

#186 9 years ago

I am assuming nobody wants/needs a free new plastic and drop stickers since noone has replied with photo of their busted one.

Guess there really are only like 5 of us that even keep this thread going, lol.

#188 9 years ago

check!

Got you down for 1 nate!

#197 9 years ago

pm me your address swinks. I'll send you a set of drop target stickers.

If anyone else is needing stickers or a replacement plastic, my offer is good till Sunday following the NFC championship. Post a picture of your janky/gorked current plastic to show it is needed.

so far I have Pinball_Nate and TenaciousT on the list.

These are not perfect since they obviously are not silkscreened, but hey they are free...

#202 9 years ago

yup, I had one frame completely blown out when I did my refurb.

My game is 99.9% done and I will load up pics when complete. i am waiting on 2 switches to come in from pblife. After putting the game all back together I found 2 that were gorked.

Glen > I have you down for a plastic also.

#204 9 years ago

Ok, with pinRob in, I am cutting the offer off.

That is all I have for clear plastic already cut and shaped and each ones takes a bit of time (which is always limited).

#206 9 years ago

OK.

Plastics polished edges.
Transparencies printed and backs painted white.
Plastics affixed to transparencies with varathane.

Will take a week of dry time before I can futz with them.

I am not going to drill out the holes as it is a pretty tight placement on my game depending on how your ramp is and the posts it sets on, so easier for each person to drill it out yourself for exact fit.

I suggest overdrilling slightly (helps to keep if from breaking it it has a little play) and drill from the frontside. Go slow with pressure but high speed rotation on drill (almost melting the hole as you drill); do it with the plastic firmly placed on a piece of paper on top of a piece of wood to keep from scratching off paint on backside and also for an optimal clean hole (everyone likes a clean hole).

I will post some photos after I get the camera charged.

#212 9 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Oh yeah, Hilton, when you gonna mod it out with jumping dolphins?

lol. ummm... never

I spent all my BW mods money on powdercoat and the DMD extender.

#219 9 years ago

plastics are done. They are not perfect, but better than what you have.
I am not entirely happy with how the transparency is holding to the plastic (some edges lifting), but hey, free is free right...

You can always peel and restick with something else if you want, but should hold up pretty well once installed.

Pinball_Nate
TenaciousT
Glen
pinRob

Please pm me your adresses. If you sent them before then they are probably buried, so please send them again.

#220 9 years ago

rob and nate >> letters are addressed and stamped.

Where you at Tenacious T and Glen? I looked through all messages and dont think either sent me a PM originally or now. Hit me up ASAP if you still want a plastic. I'd like to only stop at the PO once/tuesday on way to work.

#221 9 years ago

all 4 addresses received

plastics and tossed in some new drop target stickers go out on Tuesday. Standard snail mail.

#223 9 years ago

dropped them in the mail this morning so you shoudl all see them in a few days.

I suggest lining up holes for drilling and measure 3 times, drill once.
Good luck and hope you are happy with them. Not my best work but first time remaking a plastic from scratch.

Top of plastics still have protective layer, so be sure to peel it off. Bottom obviously dont have any protection.

#228 9 years ago
Quoted from Chemixtry:

Whysnow - do you have any target decal left. I'd be interested in a set if you do.

Sorry, mailed out the remaining good ones I had already.

Should be fairly easy to print the ones in this post
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-clubmembers-only/page/3#post-2150902

already prepped for you. You can print on sticker paper or even just use a nice card stock and then mylar over them once applied.

#229 9 years ago

anyone get their plastic and drop stickers?

Were they so crappy that nobody wants to post ?

#232 9 years ago

man USPS standard mail has really gotten slow...

2 weeks ago I had a standard letter take 7 business days to travel 120miles.

#243 9 years ago

anyone else have issues with the fork micro switch in the shark hole?

I just installed a new one and already it needs more adjustment.
I am not a fan of the fork micro ever and with the shark hole getting so much action it gets lots of use.

Anyone have tips for this?

#246 9 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Who's tired of the Baywatch theme song yet?

I actually love it!

#253 9 years ago

if you hate the game, why are you in the club thread?

#257 9 years ago

Crash,

Will you still do a short hand picture tutorial for DMD extender in Batwatch please?

It would be a big help

#259 9 years ago

Great and THANKS!

#263 9 years ago

Did everyone get their plastic? I heard form 2 of the 4 I shipped to. Did the others not show up?

#264 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Yeah, I don't mind putting together some photos and instructions for you guys. It won't be until next week.

Looking forward to this when you get a chance. I am ready to dig in to this addon when you are

3 weeks later
#274 9 years ago

looks great Crash! I need to find sometime to finally tackle the project.

#276 9 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

$250 total. Oh snap Hilton, I actually BEAT you?! If weather is good we will set it on location this afternoon.

Yeah.

My BW has been 100% for a few weeks now, but honestly I have been pretty intimidated by the DMD extender portion of the project.

I also just got 3 new machines that are in need of love, which means playable and clean machines with add-on mods get tossed to the back burner.

1 month later
#295 9 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Question any of you can answer about normal ball launch behavior. When launching a ball, does the ball trough upkicker fire prior to the ball launch?
Best way to see is when there's any auto-launch - like when you lock a ball and then a new ball fires into play and during multiball launches. The ball upkicker to the shooter lane fires prior to each launch of every the ball. I checked the shooter lane switch and a wire was broke off, but soldering it back had no effect. Before I look any further, is this normal behavior?
Thanks.

Mine did that. It is not supposed to fire the extra time. I figured it was my trough optos and found a NOS set. Replaced them and still the same symptom of vuk shoots ball to lane, vuk shoots again with no ball, then I can launch ball. (with multiball you would hear it fire the extra time between each ball) After that I determined it was a flaky shooter lane switch and not the opto set.

You will need to remove the apron and ball launch mech to get to the switch. I suggest just replacing it all together. My root issue appeared to be the plastic switch bracket was slightly cracked so sometimes the switch would engage and other times not. Also appears to be a flakey mirco. Either way, replaced the switch and no more double kick.

#297 9 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Thanks for that info. I did replace the switch tonight but just the switch itself...I took the blade off the broken switch and put it on a new switch body. Have a new switch included in the next parts order and will also add the plastic bracket and see what happens.

good luck. keep us posted. Will be interesting to see if same resolution.

2 months later
#310 8 years ago

I have also felt guilt for buying Waldo's Baywatch, but got relief this week when I got word that he found another one to bring back into the fold. Baywatch is seriously a keeper for me. I love it!

#312 8 years ago
Quoted from tamoore:

Baywatch is a real players machine. Too bad about the theme, otherwise it's the best SEGA for sure.

I love the theme. I really don't see what is to not like about it. Beach babes from the 90s and great blue eyed singing sensastion on the translite. I really do think the theme is classic in so many ways.

Aside from that, Yes it is one hell of a player and very deep. Tons of cool features and a fairly challenging game.

Also probably the best set of skillshots in all of pinball

#315 8 years ago

Anyone that has not dropped in the aftermarket LED board for this game should. It is a great addition.

1 month later
#329 8 years ago
Quoted from goggleloy:

can anyone tell the going price on a shopped Baywatch in great players condition?
thanks

probably 1500plus but it is worth double IMHO. If you like a plain FUN game with LOTS to shoot for and BOOBS then BW is where it is at.

2 months later
#356 8 years ago

curious, how srong is everyones upper left flipper. I can make the IRONMAN ramp about 70% of the time but have noticed that most players (my game is on location) struggle with it. The flippers all had a fresh rebuild and travel clean.

I had noticed that the EOS on the lower L also seems to be in charge of the upper so I think it is just how the game is.

What do others find? Is your upper L flipper a little weaker than you would like?

#358 8 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

My upper flipper is strong, can make the ramp as long as I hit it right. Change the coil sleeve and spring maybe?

Nice to know yours is strong. Maybe I am being too critical. Mine will make it but it is a very tight shot to time it right.

When you get a chance will you check your EOS on bottom L flipper and see how tight it is gapped?

Sleeve, bushing, everything was rebuilt a short time ago and it has always been like this. I am thinking not a mechanical thing.

#362 8 years ago

thanks for the info guys. Sounds like mine is about the same. Maybe I will tighten up the gap ever so slightly to see if that give it a bit more oommppff.

#367 8 years ago

Baywatch is all around an amazing game. Super fun to shoot, great amount of player interaction. The theme was done really well. The extra big display and dots are great. It is actually a very immersive experience.

Route players also seem to love it. It is a game I will keep forever! I also feel fortunate to have gotten such a good deal on it and grabbed it when I did.

Side note that the game looks great with LEDs also!

1 week later
#376 8 years ago

got a pic?

1 month later
#403 8 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Regrettably I've had to leave the BW club in order to join the Wh20 club!!

assuming it was a straight up trade you are ok to return. If you gave up the hoff and ponied up cash then yuo are never allowed to stare into his dreamy blue eyes again!

3 weeks later
#413 8 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Can I get a price check on a freshly shopped huo example with 659 plays,needless to say the game is very nice
Thanks.

Verified HUO would like bring around 4000, but that is a small but different market and collector than most. I love the game and would probably pay around 2700 for a perfect example. Reality is around 2500 to the general population id guess.

Would love to see pics

1 week later
#437 8 years ago

I am likely part of the hold up on a cliffy. I have a NOS BW pf and offered it to Cliff to use, but we have been unable to sync up so I could get the pf to him at a show. I dont like the risk of double shipping a rare pf, so have been unwilling to do that.

If someone else has a clean pf without shark hole wear they can get him then that would likely mean some movement on this.

#452 8 years ago

I cant rememeber the name but basically a drop in aftermarket board which allows you to program the intensity and rise/fall of all 4 GI strings independantly.

In short you can get rid of epilepsy mutiball and the aweful relay clicking.

3 weeks later
#471 8 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

Has anyone had a problem with the eject kicker in the ball trough becoming weak as to not put the ball in the shooter lane? I have replaced the plunger and solenoid. It works fine untill it does not, like it is loosing power as the game stays on. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Check the opto boards on the trough. They are pretty junky and tend to have issues.

To test, once it appears to have failed with kicking a ball, open the coin door carefully (vibration is sometimes enough to help it "fix itself") and go into switch and coil test to see if things are working.

I am guessing the coil and plunger is just fine. It is the flakey opto board. Carefully reflow traces and the tiny chip and hopefully good to go.

If it does end up being your opto boards and you cant fix or find a replacement set then let me know. I have a few sets I bought a while back since they are hard to find.

#472 8 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

Found a HUO around 200 plays. Jumped on it for a reasonable price. It's brand new looking. Absolutely perfect except for fuse holders and the stock batteries. Lol.

hell of deal on that for 2200!

Such a great game and that must be one of the nicer original examples.

#479 8 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

I'm not married to this Baywatch, if someone really needs it and is willing to pay top dollar for this top end(maybe the best original Baywatch in existent) pin, I'd listen to offers. I'm not an unreasonable person.

you are already at the top end for the title...

2500 is about the max on BW currently.

My example is almost as nice as yours and I picked it up for 1050 about a year ago and it has a sweet custom topper that is a real movie prop from the show. I have since added a bunch and pimped it out with powder and the controlled light board, but still dont think you will find even the best example BW selling for much beyond 2500.

I think the Hoff's mint example and signed went for just over 3k not too far back?

#482 8 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

People have pm'd with better offers already, so I'd say it might grab more than 2800

600 bucks flip in a week is pretty nice.

Let us know what it goes for. BW is a severly underrated game so maybe it is getting the love it deserves!

#486 8 years ago
Quoted from Msch:

I'm not trying to be a dick and dangle it out there for bid, but who knows.

When everyone knows you picked it up for $2200 and are flipping it so quickly you have a limited audience/ amount I would guess.

Taking bids IS pretty lame and if you wanted to be respectful with it then you would just put a price on it.

Pretty sure exactly what you are doing is fishing for bids and a profit on your good fortune of finding it...

Quoted from Msch:

if someone really needs it and is willing to pay top dollar for this top end(maybe the best original Baywatch in existence ) pin, I'd listen to offers.

I'd also suggets you go start an actual ad if you are wanting to sell.

#501 8 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

Thanks Dude , I will give this a shot. See you in Sept.

keep me posted. I plan to be out to visit in late Jan or more likely Feb (need to bring my bro his 2nd game and pick up a medusa he has been storing for a local friend). I will be sure to hit you up when I am driving out this winter so we can hang.

Super looking forward to Sept also!

#505 8 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yeah I've played one where it worked at expo, it was Trent's. Be nice if it did work, but man that thing is tough. I've spent a few hours dicking with it and no luck at all in improving it.

what is the issue you are having?

Mine works like a charm. Needed to completely clean the launch wireform, and silicone rubber on posts, and ensure your plunger kicker is strong. Then adjust so switches are perfectly gapped/adjusted so diverters open with the right timing. I found the right kickback above shark flipper to be the most difficult to get right. It was hard to get that to open with right timing. Next step is to make sure that shark kicker pushes ball up wit a clean path and enough force to go all the way back around to top left flipper.

I will say my biggest struggle is my upper left flipper could use a little more power but with the design of a single EOS on lower left flipper it is difficult to gap correctly (at least that seems to be the issue). I have not replaced the flipper button switch yet but may do that next to see if it give me a little more power. Adise form that the 3 skillshots work perfect in my game. Great feature.

#510 8 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Most of the time, it touches some of the post rubber above the "P/F" lane guide. Then it just bounces around and goes down the SPF lanes.

this is where you want the silicone. Go one size smaller that suggested. It will be a huge PITA to get on the post to the topside of the inlanes (soak the silicone in warm mater then be strong like hoff). That slightly smaller silicone and the smoothness helped me alot.

The other thing is to go watch (literlly hundreds of times) the speed and trajectory of how the ball comes out of the shooter wireform. Small adjesments to how it attaches to the left wireform can make a huge difference based on the pitch and level of your game. I ended up removing a washer from below the wireform attachment and then fine tuned it to hug the top ball guide on exit. I also laid down some mylar where the ball first bounces (if your wood has gotten chewed up at all it will steal velocity).

It took some tweaking but once tuned in it has been rock solid! Weel worth all the effort to get it right 95% of the time, cause it is one of the best skillshots of all time

#512 8 years ago

titan or pinball life both carry them.

I personally like the translucent stuff

1 month later
#537 8 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

What's the average price of baywatch nowadays?

1500 on the low end. 2000 on the high end. I see that price continuing up as of the past year and guessing that is just due to some people are actually into playing a game and are able to get beyond the theme. It also seems many others (like me) love the theme. I mean what is not to love? It was a show mainly about 2 things... boobs and bouncing boobs. Toss on that it is a pretty deep game with a solid ruleset and packed with enough things that in todays world this is a super LE.

#538 8 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Has anyone had issues with the trap door tower lock being to slow to open when shooting the tower? It is a tad too late and ends up either getting hung up on the top of the door then dropped back down or multiball is activated when I hit it hard enough to make it all the way around the wire form tripping the switch.
I have replaced the coil, coil sleeve, and switch.
Any ideas are really appreciated.

just tune in the ramp switch. It has to be set just perfectly.

#541 8 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Huo,and super sweet examples are in the 2500 to 3000. One just sold that was super nice stock unmoded huo example for around 3000.00.i believe folks are starting to realize it is a very fun loaded game

well for accuracy, one person picked up that HUO for 2200 and then advertised it for 3000 a couple of weeks later. Pick your poison but I would say 2200 is the more accurate valuation and I own one.

1 month later
#578 8 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

Ughh! I just dealt with them myself. 1/8" which I could not find in any store. Could not find online either. I used needle nose pliers.

mini nut drivers online at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26591-Precision-Driver-Piece/dp/B0006OBFEK/ref=sr_1_2

7 months later
#664 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Installed my color dmd today, literally took 10 minutes to take out the old and install the new, perfect fit. I had to make my own power plug, which took another 5 minutes. Dmd is powered by the service outlet.
Overall, it's a great option. It doesn't solve the same grainy issues of the original, but it is so much better. The video doesn't really capture it well, in person it's really very nice. Unlocking it with the pin2dmd code took a few mins to figure out. For those Unlocking it, make sure you rename your key file to pin2dmd.key. any questions, let me know.
Thanks Dominik at German gaming supplies for giving us this great option!
» YouTube video

What is the link to buy this and is it really plug and play? I tried to get the old style towork and could never figure it out.

2 months later
#769 7 years ago
Quoted from Rappelbox:

In some sets I provided a red instead of a blue cable, but anyways it's that black goes to black.
To be more precise:
L of the power supply goes to white,
N goes to the black wire.
That is the standard for North American AC voltage signage.

I would just like to know when mine will actually be showing up.... It has been months now since I paid and I have been told numerous times it is coming.

I am nearing the end of my patience on this one. Please let me know...

1 month later
#882 7 years ago

we REALLY need some more owners to get out there and leave your review and rating on Baywatch!

Such an awesome title and it deserves to be in the top 100 IMO. Sad to see it sitting so low.

#891 7 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

When you say inside of cabinet, do you mean the actual cabinet? If so, I just usually vacuum them out. Looks like this is your first used machine. You may want to get a bottle of Wildcat 125 to wipe down the playfield.

Wildcat is a bad move as it contains silicone. Please use novus to clean and then ax that is only carnuba.

#895 7 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

What does the silicone harm?

silicon embeds into the pf wood. In the short term, no issue. In the long term it can cause issues to the pf topcoat on some games and for sure makes it nearly impossible for someone to restore/ clear in the future (wont accept clear)

In essence, novus to clean and carnuba to wax is the safe and most effective way to keep a pf in tip top shape for the long haul.

1 month later
#942 6 years ago

I think you are on the right track. That would be my next thing to test

#944 6 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Thanks Hilton, also just noticed in manual F6 is listed as 3A slow blow on this page (page 8 in PDF from ipdb) but its listed as 5A slow blow on page 2 of the manual.....anyone got ideas or suggestions on that?

shuold be fine to use a 5a when testing

Are you using standard flashers or led flashers? Never hurts to pull a few flashers from the chain systematically to try and eliminate those. I would also go through all the coils to test them to see if one has gone bad/shorted internally

#946 6 years ago

with all 32 line out, I think you are on track. Granted, I am still learning, but that would be my next move.

#961 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

These powdercoated wireforms are beautiful - are they holding up well (no chipping)?

yup, look like new still. Mine was on route for a while also and no issues

3 weeks later
#1003 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I have a bunch of changes all ready to go... the problem is that I need to get my hands on a game. I need to have it in my possession for at least a few months to be able to implement the changes and verify everything.
Up until now this has been a background project of mine and I haven't been very aggressive around this, but I am now ready... if anyone nearby (Northwest Chicago suburbs) has a Baywatch that they can lend me, please let me know. PM me.

You can borrow mine for as long as you want. Come and get it whenever. Alternatively if someone wants to get it from Madison to Chad then just LMK.

#1007 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Baywatch is in the house!
HUGE thank you to whysnow !!!
Now I can start to get serious.

cheers and thanks for all you do Chad! Happy to be even a little help.

Looking forward to what you do with it and no hurry from this end!

2 weeks later
#1023 6 years ago

wireforms look GREAT!

#1026 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

As always, I am open to suggestions.

make it so modes dont lock you out of MB progression

That is the one thing I would love to see. Or ability to stack some modes with MB.

Is the game running fine for you?

#1033 6 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

How about no automatic "lock is lit" on ball two.

that should be in settings already. You can turn it so only on ball 3 from what I remember?

1 week later
#1061 6 years ago
Quoted from ksmmspt:

As far as the code update: Please get rid of the guy that says "Well Done" after you drain quickly and have around 1 million bonus. Drives me nuts!

no way! That sarcastic heckling is great!

1 week later
#1076 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Sad to say, but I left the club yesterday after about 4 years of ownership. Very depressing, but I need space for Sw and DI, both coming this week. I put a lot of work into the game with shaker, color dmd, led OCD and quite a few other things. Only comforting thing is that it went to a very good home.

sad to have you go. Can you share the price (public or private)? I am curious where market sits on a nice BW.

#1080 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Up to buyer to share price, I will say that my game was nearly perfect and had really good mods like color dmd, LED OCD, shaker, uncercab lights and nearly full LEDs. It had a few other nice mods as well. The game played perfect as it should. Zero wear on playfield.
It is sad that it left and the past few weeks have been tough with Potc, met pro and my beloved TZ also leaving. All games went to good homes where people will enjoy the games and appreciate what I've done to them, which makes me feel good.
Star Wars coming tomorrow and I'm picking up DI Friday at the factory so hopefully the sadnes will pass, but I doubt it. I regret and miss almost every game I've sold, but there is only so much space and cash available so decisions have to be made. I also run a mod business and I don't like making mods for games I don't have so I need new games from that perspective too.

excited to see what mods you come up with for SW and DI.

1 month later
#1115 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

First, make sure you game is NOT set with Adjustment 32: Coil Power = High. There is a known bug with the current code that will makes that upper gate unusable with this setting. Make sure it is set to Normal.
Second, make sure your upper gate is mechanically working correctly. Go into coil test mode and test that upper gate. The gate should IMMEDIATELY open when tested. There should be no delay. I've seen it where you press the test button and the gate hesitates to open. If this happens, examine the gate and make sure the arm that pulls the gate open has as much leverage as possible.

how are things coming? My game working well for you? Are you enjoying it?

Can you change default initials to LIONMAN for HSTD default?

#1145 6 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

This is not a ColorDMD project.
Pin2DMD (which Rappelbox sells) willlfully copied the methods disclosed in ColorDMD's patents without permission, and included them as part of the Pin2DMD editor and hardware. We have requested that they remove these features from Pin2DMD and revert back to the SmartDMD and grayscale-to-color mapping they had in earlier versions.
So far they have refused, stating that since they live in Germany they can ignore US patents.
The same group has directly copied code from the PinDMD virtual pinball project, and has worked to create knock-offs of the Run-DMD clock, and Pinsound... which they sell/distribute under the names Go-DMD clock, and Rasberry Pinsound.
The rampant copying is a problem for continued innovation in the hobby. If you're a fan of ColorDMD, or the innovations contributed by these other projects, we request that you think twice before supporting this behavior.

Will colordmd be supporting Sega games in the future and more specifically in the near future?

#1147 6 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

We support 128x32 Sega games today and intend to support 192x64 games in the future.

I guess i should be more clear, lol.

Will colordmd be colorizing Baywatch in the near future or ever?

#1156 6 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

Our hardware platform was updated last year to add the processing and memory resources required for colorizing 192x64.
We're currently completing work on a number of high-demand, long-awaited titles, and I think we'll be in a good position to add expanded support for Sega, Capcom, and Gottlieb in 2018.
However, demand/ownership in this space is low. To make matters worse, game values are low and the cost of 64x64 panels is high. When we do it, it will be for love of the hobby, not because it makes good business sense. This is the same passion (and stupidity) that led us to do titles like Popeye, Monopoly, and Rollercoaster Tycoon.
If you guys want it, we'll do it... but we're not going to fight a clone war for it.

If you do baywatch, i will happily buy it.

#1162 6 years ago

love the attention to detail Chad!

#1171 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

If Lionman had to put in 3 initials, what would they be?

easy

S O F

3 weeks later
#1189 6 years ago

your attention to detail is great!

#1195 6 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

Awesome. Wish I had a rom burner. Stoked you are putting so much effort into this project! We love you.

Quoted from maffewl:

Wish I had a rom burner as well... I meet all other criteria and would love to be a beta tester.

rom burners are relatively cheap and easy to use. Would be great to have an ctive BW member learn this new/simple skill and help out.

I would offer but my game is loaned to Chad for the project

1 week later
#1225 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

The forward mounting flange of the red plastic subway (under the lifeguard tower) gets high stress from impact of high-speed balls. The flange on mine was cracked and isolated from the subway, and no longer provided any support. I suspect this condition may exist on most Baywatch machines. Using acrylic glue or a plastic weld solvent would be futile - it would break again in no time. I fixed mine by making a simple metal reinforcement bracket and used epoxy (JB Weld) to attach it, along with the 2 broken plastic pieces, back onto to the subway. I also epoxied a small steel pin along the outside fillet for added reinforcement. Due to it's location, the repair, which doesn't look terrible anyway, isn't visible even with the playfield in the vertical position. One thing is certain, it will never break again.

I would purchase one of these if you want to make extras.

#1230 6 years ago

seems like an ideal addon for cliffy if someone wanted to loan him a good example.

#1254 6 years ago

Chad, does the shark flip logic need to be adjusted?

I had always assumed it worked like TAF thing flip, where it adjusts over time when you set the game up and tell it to. It learns that it misses the shot and then adjusts by trail and error till it hits at a higher percentage. After it hits for a while then it tends to be good (better than most players).

Does BW work the same way.

#1256 6 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

As far as I was aware the Thing flips was patented and such so it couldn't really be "copied", so Baywatch just tries to get lucky with the shot.

if that is the case then the ability for the operator to just set a flip time post switch (opto I think?) would be nice. After I set up the game I could then play with that setting till most of the balls make the hole shot.

#1258 6 years ago

what does each adjustment level represent in adjustment 50?

1 msec?
2 msec?
?

#1271 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

The struggle to I’ve had is with the Shark Scoop microswitch. The switch works, it just seems to be very picky with its proper adjustment. Just when I think I have it perfect, the ball drops in the scoop and doesn’t register and I have to wait for ball search to kick in. Has anyone else struggled with this switch?

that thing sucks! drove me nuts also. I thought about replacing with a single lever type (I think it is the forked type?)

#1274 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Yep. It looks like this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5116-01
When the ball drops into the Shark Scoop, it sits in a hole. It almost seems like the ball should sit down lower in the hole (which would mean the hole would have to be slightly bigger) so it can press down more on the switch.

I thought about replacing with one shaped more like this...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-15

That would allow it to still stay out of the way of the VUK kicker but have more movement from the ball sitting on it

1 week later
#1293 6 years ago
Quoted from waspinat0r:

Haha..I would love to say I'll be keeping it forever...but...who am I kidding you guys know me.

I cant ever sell you a game if you dump the hoff so quickly

Baywatchers never forget...

#1295 6 years ago

It is time to make room for a few more pins. Seriously...

1 week later
#1312 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

"Help is on the way!"
I just looked into it and I think I have a solution to reduce the crazy flashing GI especially when it just flashes every second or two when multiball is ready and when multiball is active. GI will still flash during jackpots and other events... just won't constantly flash as you play multiball. Hopefully will be more bearable.

Don't foget, my game has that epilepsy preventer board installed

#1317 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Picked up a Baywatch today! Needs a full shop job but happy to have it in the house! Also can't wait for the Chad code and put my name on the waitlist for the GI smoother board!

Congrats dude! What left to make room for it?

I love bw! So much game for so little money. I always say it is like a superLE. So many great shots, modes, and multiballs. Plus boobs. Everyone loves boobs

#1334 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'll check with a clinometer app. The game doesnt seem like it's playing incredibly fast, but I'll check it out. It seems like the ball doesnt accelerate fast enough out of the launcher to make it all the way around with certainty.

A few things to check.

First, clean the launcher wireform. seriously, this can be very important.
Second, check the launch mech to make sure it is hitting the ball squarely and does not need to be replaced
Third, check the entry point and just watch the ball a bunch. ANy amount of rattle will slow down the ball. Slow or variable speed ball means less chance of making the current timing on the upper gates.
Fourth, are the gates up top working corretly?

#1349 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Another thing that's kinda been bugging me. Are Comet LEDs too big to put into the Start, Launch, and League Play buttons? I've tried putting them in, but it seems like the rim of bulb is impeding the movement of the button.

Depending on the particular bulb and button, they can be. Try a few. then bust out the sand paper and hit the edge of the bulb.

Also, you are right that BW seriously rocks!

#1361 6 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I've been looking at this game for a long time and now one showed up close to me just 20 minutes away for about $2400. (yikes have prices increased quickly in only 2 years here, this would've been 15-1600 back then). Anyway, it's supposed to be in very good condition.
I see this game for sale very rarely, maybe only second machine this year. My question is, how many were made? Should I go for it? I'm actually really looking for a TFTC at the moment.

2400 is pretty much spot on (and continuing to trend up)

The game is absolutely stacked with stuff, fun to play, great DMD animations, tons of player interation, great theme (both retro, the HOFF, and boobs).

I think it will continue up and not likely to see it drop based on what you get for the money. Even at 2400 is is a great bang for the buck.

#1366 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The translite bothers me slightly

that is it, we cant be friends anymore, lol

I guess I will return the xmas present I just got you

hoff (resized).JPGhoff (resized).JPG

#1371 6 years ago

wait a sec...

I had to clip out the bottom and right to stay compliant with pinside rules, but here is the best alternative I could find, lol

p.s. I miss the early days of pinside when even current mods used to post titty pics on here! Was a different place back then

clipper pam (resized).JPGclipper pam (resized).JPG

#1375 6 years ago

hey now... atleast it is pre Tommy Lee...

#1377 6 years ago

a light just went on!

I need to set up BW next to Tommy at home!

#1386 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

My wife and kids would appreciate it for sure. Kids are 2 and 4; they would probably love it.

you can do it!

Biggest thing is to make sure the light saturation works out when back lit.

Most one offs are junk, too thin, and look liek crap.

Maybe ask Aurich for where he prints his alternates. They are nice quality.

#1406 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

How user friendly is It? I'm a ROM burning dummy so even the most basic lingo I would have to look up to not screw anything up. Plus I dont want to screw up the game because I did something wrong.

I will split the cost with you, if you want to buy it. We can share and also use to help other locals that need ROMs burnt.

We are both rom burning dummies, but between the 2 of us we can figure it out

#1411 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I might take you up on that. I think all of the games that I've worked on for you have had older ROMs so this might have paid itself off already

yeah, just buy it Definately will be worth it to have. At the rate we both cycle games it is a no brainer.

Hell, we can learn on BW and help take care of each of the BW people in this tread for a small fee. I have a handful of old chips so we could erase/burn and test them all in your game before shipping out

#1415 6 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

donating to ChadH

for sure

I did provide the game for him to use while coding also, so definately a supporter of what he does.

#1420 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

oh man, is all this pressure on me to burn ROMs now???
I'm not sure I'm comfortable, or have the time, to burn ROMs for everyone...

We can figure it all out. If you dont want to order the stuff then LMK and I will.

No pressure at all If it works cool and we learn something. If not, then no big deal either.

Learning is fun

#1423 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It might be better if you got it, since you're already way past balls deep in pinball

lol.

Best phrasing I have ever heard.
P1 > "What/How many games do you have?"
Me > "I am way past balls deep"

#1424 6 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

For $60, you can buy a ROM burning setup and never have to pay for ROM burning and wait for shipping. Normally I re-use the ROM chips instead of buying a new one chip when I need to update game code. So this $60 is all you'll likely need to spend.
This is the programmer I use for ROM burning and it comes with the software needed:
ebay.com link » Tl866cs Universal Eprom Eeprom Usb Flash Programmer Minipro Bios Avr Al Pic Sp
This is the ROM eraser I use to erase a ROM so it's ready to be burned:
ebay.com link » High Speed 110v To 240v Uv Light Eprom Chip Data Eraser Eraseable Timer

ok. Both have been ordered since FatPanda is putting the pressure on me for being beyond balls deep.

Any link on where to grab a few ROMs to have as stock?

#1440 6 years ago

great video and thanks very much!

It was moron (me) friendly!

Excited to get me gear and start programming!

Do you know where I can order a few starter ROM chips from? Would be nice to have a few on hand and then do exchanges for locals.

#1448 6 years ago

looking nice!

#1460 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Soon! Honestly, I thought it would be released by now but I've been getting great last minute feedback from sudsy7 which keeps delaying it... but it's all for the best as he is finding obscure bugs and I am fixing them. When it is released, it should be solid and worth the wait!

please dont rush it! We all want you to polish it just right and are super thankful for what you are doing!

#1476 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

A highly recommended purchase for any pinball collector.

My rom burners already arrived but looks like eraser will take a while? It there a safe way to erase using some other method while I wait for shipping from china?

#1480 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

If it's shipped, it'll probably take 10-14 days or so. They didn't send you a tracking number?

no tracking number for eraser

#1519 6 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Updated Baywatch code is running at Jerilee's Pub in Lafayette, IN if anyone wants to come check it out in person. All coin drop from this month is being donated to Chad for his code update. As of last night you were up to $17 coming your way Chad, hope we can get you a nice donation by the new year.

great idea!

I can find a slot on route and do the same thing to bring Chad some extra donation (once my game comes back no hurry Chad so feel free to keep it a bit longer in case any new bugs get revealed with everyone running the new code)

#1521 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Currently thinking of returning it early to mid January. Thank you again!

happy to loan it out. Wish I had something else for you to take home and code

Just keep me posted once you know. Again, no hurry.

1 week later
#1540 6 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yeah I'm the first one to get knocked off of everyone's games now haha. Your color display looks great.

what are the other HSTD?

1 week later
#1593 6 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

My hardware is kind of beat up, so I'm going to have everything powdercoated (legs, hinges, side rails and lockdown bar). I'm normally very conservative with stuff like this, but I think this game might be begging for something fun. What do you guys think would look best between red, yellow and white?

Are you going to use a combination of all three colors? Could look cool...

I personally tried to make the wireforms dissappear on my game and went with blue. I think it helped them to not be so in your face.

#1622 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Post #1022. I was not the first to do it, either.

I may have been?

#1624 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Yes, I believe I blatantly copied you.

I like to think that great minds just think alike.

1 month later
#1830 6 years ago
Quoted from lucky1:

Maybe because they don´t know when and want to prevent possible customers to jump on the pin2dmd train.

I dont think they need to worry much about that...

Even that single teaser is enough for me to know where the clear winner will be. I am sorry, but ColorDMD is the tried and true option for DMD colorization. The platform is stable, easy to install, and frankly looks great!

Take a quick comparison of Godzilla on each colorization platform to see the obvious differences.

1 week later
#1844 6 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Shark Jackpot award default initials are "SOF". I'm not good enough to have hit the multi ball jackpot yet to replace it with my initials .

what are the other default initials?

My game is currently busy elsewhere so I have not seen all the fun of the new code yet.

#1846 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

HMJ is one of them. I just HAD to knock that one off as soon as i could I thought CNH was another one, presumably for Chad.

lol, nice and Awesome!

Hopefully HMJ is 4th hstd so it can be the first to get knocked off

Remind me next time I am over to play your BW and put up a legit HSTD...

2 weeks later
#1927 6 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

Based purely on how often I see Baywatch come up (in the UK at least) I'd say similar to Tommy, maybe more often ? ...So my guess is 4500/5000 ish ???

3000 is the absolute top IMO.

Tommy was a hit when it came out and sold well, but the better data to look at are the Sega games selling before and after it...
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/sega/2

Apollo13 sold 2000, MSF sold 3000, BMF sold 2500.

Baywatch was extremely unpopular when it came out and I have been told by multiple operators from back in that era that BW was a poorly sold game (likely the worst of all the 1995 Sega titles).

I predict 1500 made based on all the info available.

1 week later
#1998 6 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Fuck that. I am not spending $500 on a colordmd. $420 was really pushing it, another $80 is a deal breaker.

Quoted from gweempose:

I'm very excited for the ColorDMD, but that's a heck of a lot of money to spend on an upgrade for a $2,000 game.

I am curious if that is the final price or just for the initial run?

I will say that since replacement DMDs are similar cost (if available), I am stoked to know that color can be had for the same price.

Also I think the first early adopters could easily sell their large format original DMD (assuming good and bright) fro $350 or more to save on the cost of color.

#2001 6 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

True there is money to be recouped selling your old display....but $350 ??... if I was thinking of spending $350 for a used old original - which lets face it could start flaking out anytime - I'd probably find the extra for a brand new ColorDMD.

so would I, but there are tons of people out in the pinball world that are not even aware that the color is coming.

I bet you could ebay your original right now for $350. Put it up this week and play blind for a few weeks till colorDMD X is out

#2005 6 years ago

toss it on ebay to get it sold

Also, all the Fb groups.

#2033 6 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

Isn't that a *bit* of an oversell? I'm pretty sure its going to be just like all the other colordmd releases except it'll be 192x64. Sunset scene looks great though.

the greater density of LEDs means it looks completely different.

Far superior resolution to the original or that other hack product out there.

#2035 6 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

So its not colored dots?

it is colored dots, but more of them and it looks way better than anything else out there.

Beyond the technology and better DPI, the colorist ont hs is one of the best with the most experience out there. In other words, good color choice, blending, and accurate to show clips.

#2048 6 years ago

Sorry, just stop.

Or go take it to another thread where you can put side by side screen grabs of colordmd and your product.

-1
#2056 6 years ago
Quoted from lucky1:

ColorDMD now copied the idea

yeah, LOL! Seriously... You are going to claim that colorDMD copied the idea of colorizing a game by taking the signal form the driver and modifying it to turn it to color? really? that is laughable.

Quoted from lucky1:

I´m still happy with my 200$ DIY solution.

I tried for many hours to get that hack of a solution to work. I spent around $350 in parts that still sit in a box. I bought all the crap and then had to pay extra for it to even be unlocked to possibly use from some other company. I got shitty customer service in trying to hook the junk up and never got it to work. I would have been happy with a solution for $200 if if actually worked, when there was no other alternative, and if it looked even remotely of the calibur that colorDMD appears.

Sorry, but it is not even close.

Quoted from wrohner:

So is the Pin2DMD XL going to give me the same quality the new ColorDMD-X puts out? I just want to install and play my Baywatch in color...

No, not even close. Dont waste your time or money on on the hack off alternative. Go to the tried and true product and manufacturer in ColorDMD. Great customer service and great product.

#2059 6 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Get this thread back on topic of Baywatch please. Take all coloring posts to the other threads. This morning I see 11 new posts here and it's all bickering about colors.

agreed.

#2066 6 years ago

that board is seriously GREAT!

#2106 6 years ago

ColordMD looks GREAT in person!

Sorry, no vid capabilities, but WOW!

#2127 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Last day of TPF and can't believe this is the only video footage of the new ColorDMD. We don't need Bowen Kerins to play, but surely somebody can start a vertical mode or two, please?

Assuming the color code is complete, then I will be taking my baywatch to MGC in a few weeks.

#2130 6 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

That's cool, but I just don't understand why there aren't more videos posted this week. Everyone has a smart phone in their pocket - shoot some footage (good, bad, shaky - who cares). Maybe people are just having too good of a time and haven't had time to post them yet - here's hoping.

No smartphone here or I would have for you, sorry.

Also, having too much fun to worry about video.

#2133 6 years ago

https://www.midwestgamingclassic.com

Largest electronic gaming show. Whole new space this year so even bigger.
My favorite show of all the pinball shows.

My particular Baywatch was loaned to Chad to do the new code and now is with Eric who is doing the colordmd code.
Assuming eric is comoletely done with colordmd code then I told him and Randy I would bring it to MGC so everyone can see the f ished product.

5 months later
#2595 5 years ago

still such a shame that this game is not even in the top 100 on pinside rankings.

Owners need to step it up and get this thing up to the immaculate 100.

2 weeks later
#2613 5 years ago

just get a colorDMD. Looks amazaballs in BW!

#2616 5 years ago

just give it some time... BW is a keeper!

#2619 5 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

The good news is that the introduction of the ColorDMD has significantly lowered the price of used ones.

Yeah, i have a used for sale at 250

#2624 5 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

I would let my old display go for $200

mine was the actual display used to colorized the images for coloDMD

Surely worth the cost for the real deal

I personally wont go less than $250 as they are still worth it to have as a back up or for another big screen game.

2 months later
#2710 5 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yes I have replaced the whole switch three or four times this year, last time I ordered a replacement I just got a bunch of them, the switch seems to completely fail, won't work in game or test mode. It is like something is electronically killing them it feels like. Makes no sense to me.

Quoted from gweempose:

That's not normal. Perhaps something is out of spec which is causing those switches to fail so quickly. Have you checked the voltages?

Common on BW. See it on a few of them. I think it has to do with how the ball launches into and sits on the shooter lane switch. I made mine better by bending the switch to fine tune.

Basically you need it to still actuate with a ball on it, but want it sitting with ass little switch as possible exposed/ above pf surface.
That way the ball does not catch the side of the wire/switch when coming into shooter lane from trough.

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