New member here. My wife and I drove to Cincinnati this weekend to pick up our new Baywatch from a fellow pinsider. The whole family is really loving it, as we haven't had a DMD game since I sold my DW five years ago.

I have been looking to buy an early DMD game for a couple months, but kept striking out. My wife was feeling sorry for me and started looking herself to see what's available. She knows nothing about pinball, but theme is very important to her. She loves Marvel and kept saying what aobut this, and I say it's xxxx money, then nevermind. She came across Baywatch and said said you didn't tell me they made a Baywatch pinball. I immediately had approval to up my budget, so search was on. Patience isn't our strong suit, so we did a short road trip to pick one up.

Quick question, as I haven't had time to dig in. The shark Vuk doesn't eject balls unless there is a ball search. Maybe it's just an adjustment issue? I'll try to figure it out tomorrow, but I'm still learning this stuff. This is the first Sega I've not only owned, but ever played.
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Oops, used a pencil to push down and got nothing. I'm going to figure out how to test the switch other ways. Maybe it's a Sega thing, but the diagnostics don't seem to run the tests. Lots to learn.

Edit: Ok, dummy me wasn't closing the coin door for the diagnostic tests. All switches register when activated except the shark scoop. I suppose that means bad switch.?

I'm putting together a LED list. Has anyone done this and can share? I don't want a pre-assembled kit, becuase I have a mix of LED and incandescent.

It's a loop microswitch. I'm digging through this thread and there are links to replacements switches that is a Y design and I see other threads about the shark scoop with similar information that it's probably a bad switch. I'm going to order one soon and try to replace. Bummer I didn't notice this yesterday until I got it home. I'm going to consider it a learning experience, as this is something I need to learn to deal with. Right now I'm going to plug the hole, so we don't have multiple ball searches each game when a boll goes down the shark scoop.

Edit: Hooray! It was a loose diode on the switch. Must have come loose in transit. I still need to get a decent soldering iron, but electrical tape has it together for now. This machine cleaned up nice. Now all I need to do is order LEDs and I'm set.

Put in my Comet order last night, plus iron from Amazon. I did an eyeball inventory of the different colors and base types. I don't think I'm going to worry about the really hard GI bulbs at the moment, but would love to access the pop bumbers to get LEDs in there. Those bulbs are out.

I'm bumming out I didn't order a nvram from Comet when I had enough in the cart for free shipping. Oh well.

I just ordered Chad's update from Matt's Basement Arcade. Can't wait to put that in. Also, bonus my Pingulp arrived the day we got home with the pin, which I bought with Ebay's 25 year anniversary credit for being a 20 yr long member.

This game is so much fun and has so much going for it. The icing on the cake is this my wife's nearly grail theme. The hot swimsuit babes is no problem for her.

Same, I'm not going to buy a ROM burner and ROMs for one game to do myself. Matt's ROMs are talked highly of in this thread. His price is really good, as shipping is almost more. I'll donate to Chad when I get it working. I'm really looking forward to it.

Also, just realized Pinball Life has the NVRAM, not Comet. Now I need to get a basket going there.

Does anyone have the color code for the blue cabinet paint? I have some spots I would really love to touch up.

Credit card is put away. Just made an order at Titan for some bands and a few LEDs I forgot to order from Comet. I would love a ColorDMD, but that will have to wait. My orange DMD is nice and bright, so will probably only replace if it fails.

I played for an hour and half tonight and couldn't beat the high scores my wife and kids put up today while I was at work. Turns out they were using the extra cabinet button on the left under the start button to use 5 balls. Not fair, but I'm not going to resort to that to beat them.

Still looking for that blue cabinet color code if anyone has it.

Thanks, I saw that, but $10 an ounce plus shipping (I'm guessing), ouch.

Reminds me of the tiny jar of Big Green Egg touch up paint I bought earlier this year. It wasn't even the right shade of green.

I saw VladM 's post when I was searching about a week ago and PM'd him. I haven't heard back yet. No rush though. My backup was to go to Lowe's and get a but load of blue paper paint samples and see if one happens to be very close. I'm definately not mixing my self with hobby paint because I'll never get a match. 1oz from pinball universe just wouldn't go that far. The cabinet really doesn't need any touchup except maybe on the corners up front. However, the back box, like most has dings in the blue. Luckily, the Baywatch lettering is pretty darn good, so just the blue is needed.

Soldering iron came in today, so now my lose switch diode is fixed. Glad I put in an order to Titan last night because one of the rubbers on a back standup post broke apart today.

Bummer. Murphy's law sucks.

Sorry, no before/after pics, but i can't believe I haven't seen it talked about on this thread yet. The glare from the DMD was worse than other games mainly because it's larger. I really couldn't see the back of the game hardly at all. Tonight I installed Comet's ant-glare screen and I have pretty much no glare at all. I'm very happy with this product.

I put in all the easyGI LEDs, controlled lamps, and flashers tonight as well, but my count was off, so another order to Comet made tonight. I'm not going to attempt most of the GI yet, but maybe in a few months if other bulbs start to go out. I'm not excited about it.

I cannot wait for Chad's code to come in.

It goes right on the DMD. I thought about putting it behind the speaker panel because I thought maybe it would be easier. It wasn't and didn't fit in the hole, so I did what they recommend and put on the DMD face. It will be easy to transfer if I switch to ColorDMD.

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I got the 4.01 roms today. I opened the box and holy cow, it was like finding a needle in a haystack. Fortunetly, I didn't make too big of a mess on the floor.

I put a gray mini flipper rubber on the shark, which looks a lot better than black. I also went with light blue sling shots. I knew shopping this is a bitch, but didn't expect so much trouble just to change the left slingshot rubber. sheesh. The purple flipper bands on the bottom flippers were already on the game when I bought. They are in great shape, so no reason to replace. My wife likes the purple, it says 90's.

When replacing bulbs I noticed the siren lights on the playfield boat are actually inserts. My bulbs were burned out and now there's some light in the middle of the playfield now.

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Looks great. Reminds me I need to look for the original Sega Sonic one.

I agree, looks great, but I like it to look how it came from the factory. I'm not an alternate translite guy, not even for DW.

Tonight, I finished changing out all the bulbs to LED except thost stapled down ones. My first order to Comet wasn't correct.

The left pop bumber looks great with a working bulb. The other two where out as well. The back right one is about impossible to get to without major playfield removal. However, the bottom pop bumper with the half moon was a different story. I took the advice of someone on this thread that put a color changing LED on that bumper, which I love. To get the old one out I tried my wife and two kids. Small hands are needed, but they couldn't get it out. I finally tried a cheap pair of wire strippers and was able to pop the bulb loose. Then using a bamboo skewer I was able to get the new LED mostly there. Then my son was able to get his finger on the top and push down. Success.

I also hit the easy rubber areas with a fresh order from Titan because I didn't order the right thing the first time. Once again another screw up. I didn't realize the 3/8" rings are OD, so another order for five rings that cost as much as the shipping was placed tonight. Oh, well.

I also learned the shooter that sends the ball behind the gate on the right side to the left side isn't screwed in at all. It's still able to send the ball back around the orbit though. For now, I'm just going to forget I learned that.

One last thing. I got all of the blue paint samples from Lowe's. Nothing matches. I guess it makes sense because nobody would paint their walls this shade of blue.

Edit: just ordered the Baywatch Blue from pinball universe. My plan is to use it to color match the 1 oz they send you. It's $15 for 1 oz shipped.

I got the Pinball Universe Baywatch blue and was shipped B/W Rocky B blue. They claim it's the same. The wet paint in the jar looked like a match, but it dried darker; not much, but noticble. I'm going to drop some pure white in and mix to get to match. I don't really buy that my game is faded is the cause of mismatch. The blue is uniform all over the game, and no way all that had same UV exposure all around.

BTW, 1 oz is plenty of paint for touchups.

Good work. They look good.

tonycip the powder coating looks amazing. I currentlyy have all the ramps off my playfield. Let me know what you need pics of and I'll get them for you.

I started my playfield tear down to replace bands, LEDs, and clean. I have a bit of a delay because I forgot to buy a Cliffy set prior. I contacted Cliff and business is good for him, as he has an approximate 3 week backlog. Oh well, I'll wait to put everything back together when they come in, as it will be much easier. Now I have pinball parts all over the living room. This was one dirty game. I have one question. In the first pic I circled two posts. I would like to know if your game had rings on these posts (manual says there should be). Mine did not and honestly, I'm not sure if the rubber has ever been replaced on this game. I wonder if perhaps these rings were removed to help with the skill shot.

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Thanks @yellowghost. I put the ring on the one under the pastic already, so I'll keep it and will leave the other post bare. Interesting though, when I romoved the rings from the posts separating the pop bumper roll overs they were the same size, but the manual had a different size for top of divider and bottom. I followed the manual. The manual did mess up one sling size, which required yet another order to Titan. There is a theme here. I must love paying for shipping.

@taygeta, BM66 is a great game. I am also a fan of Dark Knight. I haven't played TMNT yet, but hope to soon.

Love it when problem is solved Pinside detectives. I'm still waiting on my Cliffy's to get my machine back together. It's been tough seeing parts sitting around everywhere.

It's my dumb ass fault because I left Baywatch parts sitting on a box on top of the dog kennel. Well, this is what happens when you are waiting for parts and didn't plan ahead before taking a game apart.

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At least it wasn't a ramp or swallowed pinball. Luckily Pinball Haus had a replacement in stock. While at it, I picked up some decals. I hope my Cliffy's come in soon!

Mine is like Northerndude's with one post in the slot and one in it's own hole north of the slot. Yours does not appear to have a hole there. I have the same color slings, btw, and love it.

I checked my manual and the second post is not there. Interesting. Does that mean my high scores don't count

Glad to hear you got it fixed up. Beers!

This is a confessional post in the Baywatch thread. I received my Cliffy set yesterday, which not having was preventing me from putting my game back together after a couple months. I can't get it all together because I don't have the 3 bank drop plastic from Pinball Haus yet, which was to replace the one my dog chewed (not his fault). However, I can get it mostly together, but I'm just unmotivated because I'm a little worried it has been so long since I tore it down I won't be able to get it back together. This is my only game, so I really need to get it back up again.

I did get the skill shot kick back coil screwed in, which had zero screws in it (how in the hell did that happen?). I hope it is lined up well as I used the three existing holes that were not blown out. I thought I was going to have to use the toothpick/wood glue trick in the holes, but they were fine.

Wish I would have read this post earlier. I installed my Cliffy's today and it took 2 hrs with the playfield already apart. I had to snip the earthqauke vuk protecter as mentioned in ThatOneDude's post. I tried notching, but ultimately had to completely clip a gap to clear the playfield post. It's fine, but I did not expect to modify Cliffy's fine product.

Welcome to the club.

I'm guessing robertg130 will also have to change out GI lighting and will find out how fun that is. I still need to put mine back together.

If you do get Cliffy's order give Cliff about a month before you need them (one man operation that is in demand) and ask if he has the modified Earthquake VUK version. See some of my recent posts for reasons.

I hate to write this type of post, but what should be a happy post that I finally got my machine back together after a playfield tear down waiting on some parts, and I'm back up and running. However, everything has gone to shit. First sign of trouble is I plug the pin in after about a month and DMD doesn't display and the song isn't playing. All other sounds work. This is after just being unplugged. I missed with the connectors and got the DMD back on.

I get everthing back together and start to play and I notice the G and R switches aren't registering. I believe everything else is fine. Then I remembered I didn't plug those two ramp connectors in. I turned the pin off and plugged them in. The G comes back back, but now the subway vuk fires about 5 times between every ball, the shark flipper switch, right sling shot, and R switch doesn't work (G is now working). I mess around and I'm sure the connectors are back as they should. I also notice all high scores are gone (put in new batteries a few months ago).

Now I leave the pin on for a couple hours and DMD is out, plus the shooter plunge and left kick are noticably weak. What the hell is going on?

I looked at the manual and don't really know what I'm looking at, but I see all of the switches that aren't working are related. Where should I check first?

I had not problems before and now all of a sudden it seems like the pin is dying. It looks awesome now all cleaned, with GI LEDS, and new Titan rubbers, but now I wish I would have just let it be.

Thanks for your support, as you have been having fits with your machine. One of the male to male molex connector arms broke and thought it would still hold together fine. Now I believe I should replace all male to male connectors for the switches I had to disconnect to take the ramps off. I'll scan the switch matrix at work tomorrow to show what is out. Where do you buy your connectors and the switch tester you mentioned? Funny, I was hoping it would just be fuse

A little update and I have to give a shoutout to this website. For someone new diagnosing pinball problems, espcially a DE/early Sega this is something to read.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

I dissambled necessary ramps and wire forms again so I could remove the one ramp that I think has the micro switch that is causing my problems (right ramp/Iron Man exit). I dind't like doing this after the effort getting it back together, but it had to be done. Without that switch plugged in and another one (life guard exit) that had to be removed that didn't give me problems everything back on that problem switches matrix is working again. In fact, the attraction music is now working. I have no idea the correlation between music and the switches.

I followed a guide linked above on how to test a bad switch with a MM and the switch in question tests fine. I don't understand why when that ramp is plugged in it causes problems. Tomorrow, I'm going to plug both the switch I'm having problems with and the one I think is fine with playfield up and ramps in cabinet. I think this can help me figure out if it is a connector issue or something I don't know.

I'm feeling better about this because before with a lot not working all of a sudden I just got overwhelmed. Also, after recent putting the ramps/wire forms back together I'm able to remove and put things back easier.

I'll check back in after my other test. The only problem I can see is somehow the back right switch gets shorted when installed. I don't see how though, but it does rest on a metal tab or maybe the Z-connectors are holding things together (but why would the machine act like a short?). I was talking to Northendude about Z-connnectors and he thought that is a really low failure point.

Now fun post. Thank goodness Pinball Haus had the plastic my dog chewed up that unproperly stored about his kennel. While ordering I got their stand up target decal kit and coin door sticker. I prefer the sega w/ sonic sticker, but it's hard to find, so while ordering the plastic I just went with Pinball Haus' version. There is one circle Baywatch sticker similar to the two on the laser kick stand ups, but larger that my son and I can't figure out where it goes. I'm very happy the decal kit. (sorry for glass-on pics, but I didn't want to take it back off and just want to relax now for the night.)

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I'm so happy to report:

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We are back in business. I plugged in the switch on the Tourist Season ramp that I suspected to be the problem under the playfield just to check to trouble shoot and everything was fine. All switches now working and even the music. I reinstalled the top parts and found I didn't have the Tourist Season ramp in right, which somehow must have caused a short. Here is how it's supposed to be.

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The switch is on the left of the plastic form where that cirlce piece is. When I originally assembled I could not puzzle that back together and the switch ended up resting on the post that's on the tab attached to the back. I thought it would be like the plastic that surrounds the EQ VUK that has a post that doesn't screw into anything. Turns out the switch goes below the back tab, the circle plastic pice screws into the post, and the cardboard piece prevents shorts.

A lesson to people new to playfield teardowns of this level. Take lots of pictures because your memory will fail, have all parts on hand so you can put together and reassemble the same day, and if you can't put together right away keep your parts away from a puppy. The verterans here are like no shit.

This had me totally stressed for a long time and I can't believe a simple little thing caused such a causcad of fails. Not that I would ask for this to happen again, but I feel a lot more experianced now doing a playfield top tear down and having to diagnose a problem.

Thanks. My son was making it his mission to find where it goes. That's funny. I got the orange floaty key chain from Amazon. I might be able to wrap it around that.

Love your product btw, I'm very happy with the plastic and decals.

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Yeah, that's it, but mine looked like this (not my picture, but from this thread and looks same):
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I'm not sure why it is needed, but Sega has lots of anti-airball type protections.

Welcome to the club!

It's not hard to find. Cliffy will make it for you, just email him.

I used Comets non-ghosting everywhere and don't have any flickering problems. The main flickering will happen with the life guard tower. I had some spare regular leds in that and it was nuts, but then got a new order of Comets after not ordering the right amount and it took care of that.

The flashers are still crazy, so maybe I'll get an OCD sometime. My step-dad who is older, had some issues with the flashing effect, and I have the Chad code that is supposed to help with that.

I realized the reply should have been to the person you talked to.

tonycip ChadH, a pinsider here that has a passion for updating DE and Sega games, did an update to Baywatch. He fixed some bugs changed some scoring, and worked on the light strobe issue. Early on in this thread he lists what he did and the list was pretty long.

I sometimes get ball saves I didn't expect. What I don't like is when the ball save light is still blinking towards the end of the timer, I get no save

I have Comet's and it works great. It cut out most of the glare and you would never know it is there.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/dmd-glare-eliminators

The reason why I got it because my wife complained so bad, but she was right. After installing she was totally happy, and so was I. I honestly didn't think it would work so well, and it's dope they had one for the Jumbo DMD.

Thanks for the run through. I have never been able to undo the SOF (Swords of Fury) initials and now I know why.

Glad it worked for you.

When I first got my BW I immediately started with page 1 of this thread and read it straight through. Your mod reminds me of the discussions and pics of mods that were on this thread early on. Everyone was very enthusiastic. Yours looks good, but let's not start putting Barbie toys in there.

Well, if you do, I'll keep my mouth shut; promise.

Just ordered a ColorDMD and I can't wait to put it in. Anyone have experience installing and what it comes with for your BW? Does it come with new ribbon cable for instance?

Man, I really can't wait. This is a huge purchase for me, but you know I just got a big check on the 17th. I asked about the ribbon cable because my DMD has gone out due to connections. My neighbor who has had a lot of DE/Segas said most likely ribbon cable. I just ordered a new set from Marco. Othersie, my stock DMD works great and I'll be selling once the ColorDMD comes in.

Made move to the new house and setup my BW and everything is working great. After I put together about 10 boxes of Ikea furniture I'll get to the ColorDMD and replacing ribbon cables. Not motivated because game is working 100%

Except, everytime I get home something immediately goes wrong with something in the house. My son is playing BW and says he hit multiball and he had only one ball. I play and get the same, but I'm having my best game ever. My laser kick hit and stays open. I pull the glass to save the ball and then drain. I also got only a one ball mutliball.

While the glass is pulled I saw two balls on the left side of the apron where they shouldn't be. Then another lodged between the laser kick plunger and back, which is why it was stuck open. I showed my son and he said, "Owe, is that why it said missing balls when I turned the machine on?". OMG. Easiest fix ever though. Except, one ball is completly missing. Can't make this up.

Bonus, while looking for the lost ball under the playfield I found the missing guard tower rail. Yay.

Funny, I didn't know it was supposed to be there until I was studying pictures for putting my playfield back together after cleaning.

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Previous owner of mine didn't have that bottom screw, so mine only has the two top screws. I wonder if that's why your ball gets stuck.

What scores are you all getting? I had an epic game for me and got 1.2 million. I know, for you good players, that probably is not much, but it kills any score anybody else in family can do.

Edit: It was pointed out 1.2 billion. 1.2 million would be really terrible as a high score.

Yeah, that's what I expected, I'm no good, but have a lot of fun. I'm sorry to admit that I've never spelled Ironman and can't get more than 69million on the first shark video mode. Funny though, my family think I'm good. My main goal is to spell guard and get that awesome match scene.

I meant billion. My leader board is mostly filled with 400-700 million, so 1.2 billion was great for me. Would love to max out the score like you guys. That would be one crazy game.

I'm now in the ColorDMD and Baywatch Club! I installed the new display today and I'm loving it. I also put on new ribbon cable kit from Marco. I shouldn't say this because I don't want to jinx it, but everything is running really nice.

If you are interested in a good orange jumbo DMD PM me. I will be posting on the market soon.

Updating to Chad's code was one of the first things I did after buying my BW.

This was the #1 reason for me, but I'm not that sure it made a big difference. BW likes to flash, baby.

My kids and I are fine with it, but my 60 something old step-dad had a hard time, even with Chad code. I would love to find that board that is no longer made that really takes care of the flickering and the noise.

Edit: spelling

Hell Yeah, I can't believe Stern didn't put color DMDs in their pins before the LCD switch. It is the number one best mod.

That weird stuff could happen with a short somewhere. It's amazing how one little think can cascade to ghosts in the machine.

I haven't had a chance to play TMNT yet, but now I really want to. I love the laser kick, it's saves my a$$ because I'm a bad player. I'll take a left ball save over a spinning playfield disc anyday. Also, at least when selling a BW you don't need to provide a shooter lane pic.

I have been having screen shutting off while play issues for awhile now. I had hoped switching to ColorDMD would solve the problem, but it didn't. Well, it did for a couple months. However, it was the perfect excuse for buying a ColorDMD when my wife asked about it.

It's pretty well documented that the 5-volt power supply is the issue and there is a service bullitan 106 that details how to solve this problem. I got this from Marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6326-00

Marco includes the service bullitan, which explains what to do. After installing, my problem appears to be solved (knock on wood). Installing the wires in the harness did require me to strip back the wires about 1/8 inch in two spots and use a screw driver to push in. It didn't work before I stripped the wires.

There is a one minute fix thread where the fix should have taken one minute, but ended up way longer. You got one here.

Why complain about randam ball saves? I need them, ya'll.

I guess I got lucky last year. I had to get a new "schooner" plastic from Pinball Haus and it was a good match. I ended up buying some stickers to because why not. Shipping was surprisingly cheap. It did take awhile though.

I had been looking for those and could not find. I ended up with Pinball Haus' sticker because I was getting a plastic from them, but this is what I really want. I will be sending a PM.

I wish I could help with the decal, but welcome to the club.

I don't know if it was completely necessary, but I used non-ghosting Comet LEDs all way around. I had a particular that was not a non-ghosting in the lifeguard stand and it looked bad. I had to replace with another Comet.

Mine disintegrated as well, couldn't believe I was the first one in there changing 'em out. I had to put some in hot water to remove off the post as well they were so tight.

Welcome back!

You need that beach scene to warm you up during those cold winters.

You need some:

No, it's bolted to the floor. Cliche response, but I'll probably switch out in a year or two because I have room for only one pin. I'm sure you'll find something because it really is a great game, especially with the XL ColorDMD.

You have to have the leg bolts be real loose.

My advice to you is if this is your first pin, make sure the one you buy has been recently shopped. This pin is Mother F'r for shopping.

bridgeman

This piece gave me big trouble because it just wan't fitting. It took me over a month to put back together because I was waiting on parts and I didn't take good enough pictures. I thought I had it and then stuff wasn't working. I took it back apart and then boom it just fit right. I just took these pics for you.

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You are also missing a tear drop piece of plastic that covers that hole. I have never figured out what that is there.

I thought so too when taking before pictures. To get that one you really have to get your phone in there.

Glad I could help.

Maybe Pam's boobs could be made to look more natural instead. Fat faced Hoff looks weird.

I opened the hood for you. Mine all match.

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No problem, while under there I noticed some loose screws on my shark fin flipper. Plus, decided to finally glue the left hand rail on the guard tower platform back on. It wasn't on the pin when I bought it, but found the piece in the cabinet while cleaning. Read the label on this glue. I can attest, it does stick to skin instantly.

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I second this.

Edit: I don't have ability to burn roms. Matt's Basement Arcade sells them cheap.

Yeah, no USB or wifi on these 90's pins. Got to pull the chip and put new one in.

Don't forget to tip Chad for his time and effort.

Sorry to hear about Matt.

I was playing a game tonight and the shark flipper stuck in the up position. I opened the hood and found the flipper linkage had bound up because the pin holding the plunger to the link broke. I'm looking online and can't find a rebuild kit for the shark flipper. I can find kits for the standard flippers. I coud use some guidance.

Well, the linkages are different. It appears the two uppers are the same, but different from the lowers. The lower is what I see kits for online. Maybe the actual pin that holds the parts together, which is what broke, is the same. However, if I'm in there, I would love to do a rebuild to bring it back to new.

I'll order the kit and at very least I'll redo the bottom flippers. I also need an extra long Allen key because I couldn't get the screw holding the flipper shaft to budge.

Those two connecters have nothing plugged into them on mine either. Always wondered what they were for. The grounding wire on mine cleanly goes around the whole cab and connects to each leg bolt bracket.

Sorry for the cargument, but if you don't have a good ground it probably won't work right.

I wouldn't worry about it. Mine was missing the left side and thought it was normal because I saw a lot of pics without it. Later it was in the back of the cabinet. CosmoConstant's might be in there, fingers crossed.

For shopping CosmoConstant you will have to do a top side tear down to replace most GI bulbs and rubbers. I found this blog to be very helpful.

http://pinballnovice.blogspot.com/2014/12/baywatch-all-together-now.html

Hopefully they did white for all GI and color matched inserts. I have Comet non-ghosting in mine, but didn't get a kit. I took my own faulty inventory before ordering and of course had to make two additional orders afterward because I got it wrong.

Thanks guys, the lower flipper kit very much works for the upper, it just comes with extra stuff you don't need for them. I read several pages of Vid's guide to flipper rebuilding because I have never done one. Well, I read the guide after ordering my kit from Marco and Vid1900 said you need the flipper bushing and it doesn't come in the kits. Also, the flipper set tool is hard too find. Well, cheers to Marco, as they included all that.

Overall, rebuilding the one flipper for the first time ever for me ended up being a one beer job. People rag on DE/Sega, but I could have done it without even removing the holder. There are no backing nuts. I decided to remove everything anyway, minus the coil itself that I zip tied to the playfield, because the two bolts took some elbow grease to remove. Plus it made it easier to clean 'er up.

This definately needed to be done. I'm going to do the rest next:

IMG_20220323_183045824 (resized).jpg

ColorDMD is a must. With the orange the animations really don't stand out, but the ColorDMD folks knocked it out of the park. Plus, sell your OG DMD if still good and get half your money back on the ColorDMD. Even use the ColorDMD box to ship the OG display.

Yours might already have, but the 5V display kit for the serivice bulliton is a must if your DMD cuts out on you while playing. Works like a charm.

Shaker, don't know. I'm in the camp that doesn't like moving old electronics around like that.

Chad's code is great, but not a must. What I really wish I had was an OCD LED controller, but not available. Chad's code help, but what can be done with code is limited.

Some people like putting Barbie Doll toys, plastic aquatic animals, and plastic palm trees; I would avoid that.

If you can make a kit, you can sell as a mod for $. Looking forward to the end result.

The powder coat looks good. Did you paint the front of the back box blue? It looks cool like that.

CosmoConstant Don't forget Cliffy's. The shark hole really needs it.

Install is pretty easy. Once you put in the ColorDMD, list your OG DMD for $200 + shipping and ship using the ColorDMD box. Assuming your OG DMD is still good. That's whay I and others have done. It gives you nice offset in the $500 price.

I posted here and FB MP. I don't bother with CL anymore and don't want to deal with eBay. Mine sold on FB to an out of town person.

Edit: I don't think it took more than a month to do so. Be sure to take pics and videos of your OG DMD working before you take out. That helps with the sell.