Happy to have just joined the club!
There are a few broken and a few missing plastics on mine. Does anybody have a spare ball launch cover plastic? Or better yet, is anybody hoarding one of the repro sets that were pressed a while back?

Yeah I got in touch with Pinball Haus over eBay. Turns out shipping plastics to the states these days is prohibitively expensive for just one plastic. Been trying to figure out if it's worth getting a whole repro set from PinballCenter in Germany but their shipping scenarios seem funky.

You're talking about the ones from "Pinball.Center" or the one boat launch plastic available on Pinside from Pinball Haus?

My understanding is that the one from Pinball.Center in Germany is just stock that was bought from RestoRefurbs when they did their full package of decals, alternative translites (which are all howlingly funny/grotesque) and plastic sets as they normally do but I could be wrong. I've heard generally speaking that their products are more often than not, darker than they should be, but hey, beggars can't be choosers or so they tell me.

Sent you a PM Jody.

Anybody have a record of what side hex/spacer/standoff is on the exit of the left plastic ramp and how it's attached? One thing I didn't take a photo of on my teardown.

Thank god for the Pinside Shopout Image library that I often times forget exists.

Shoutout to Pinsider Marc whoever that is for uploading some very thoughtful images.

Long shot but if anybody has a coin door for Baywatch or some other Sega Big DMD game, let me know. I'm interested!

Alright chums, riddle me this. My Baywatch is almost 100% but is experiencing one weird quirk that I just can't seem to wrap my head around. I think that I've narrowed down the issue but I want to post it here for all of you to pick apart and point out where my brain is falling to work properly.

The issue: I am having erroneous switch matrix issues that I believe I can pinpoint down to the Solid State Flipper Board (which is a replacement from pinned.de)

The symptoms: Baywatch is doing a few odd things when, and only when, both flippers are pressed down. These things are mainly associated with Row 7 on the switch return, and namely are:
1.) balls locking when both flippers are pressed and a ball is in the Shark VUK
2.) the ball lock drops complete without the middle drop actually being actuated
These are both caused by, for whatever reason, switch 55 and switch 23 ("under playfield ramp" and "3-bank drops (middle)" activating when both of the flippers are pressed, but ONLY when either the bottom of the three drops, or the shark super scoop (switches 24 and 56) are activated. This causes balls to register as locked when the ball lock is lit or completes the ball lock, and then locks a ball, usually to the frustration of spitting out a new ball from the trough and sending 2 into play.

How I've narrowed it down to the SSFB (I think): I've ruled out a mechanical issue or a wire being loose on either row or column because the issue persists when the trouble switches are desoldered and removed from the circuit and yet they still activate in the switch matrix. The issue ceases to exist when the flipper board is present in the circuit. Since the return wire on switch 7 is a through-crimped IDC connector, taking the board out allows all switches (with the exception of 63 and 64 of course) to work normally. When the board is installed on either the upper or lower flippers, the issue persists. I do not have a 520-5080-00 board present to test it against, but I'm losing my mind trying to think of other possibilities. All the non-surface mount transistors on the board test fine and I've gone ahead and replaced Q7, Q11, and Q12 just to see if it made a difference (it didn't) and I'm looking to see what might be the issue I'm dealing with. T1-3 test fine as well. The only other relevant info that I can give is that whoever installed this board before me had the dip switch settings wrong. Schematics for the repro board can be found here.

The only other thing I can think of somehow there is something shorting out in the flipper buttons themselves, but I am really struggling to think about how that could possibly occur only when the board is present.

The Solid State Flipper Boards in question are the ones you're describing. I have experienced the "Data East/Sega Flop" you describe, which is a great term, and the one thing in pinball that has almost made me give up on the hobby almost every time it happens. Makes you feel like a complete failure. The harness tubes are present on this game and each return wire loom has been inspected for shorts. I just can't imagine a game experiencing this symptom with the switches PHYSICALLY removed. That's what makes me point to the board rather than a connection point.

Not a rom issue. Rom has been swapped and reset number of times.
Every diode in the circuit line has been checked and tests good, and even so, if these switches are showing up in the matrix with the switches completely unplugged, I doubt that would be a stray diode issue.
Every diode on the suspect faulty SSFB checked and tests good.
Every pre-driver transistor and diode has been tested on the MPU, and the MPU swapped with a known working one to in theory eliminate the issue being the switch PIA (unless of course this process friend the other switch PIA but I refuse to believe that with all of the transistors and diodes functioning a PIA IC would burn up because of a dead SSFB).

The only other thing I can think of is it possibly being an issue with something in-between the SSFB and the flipper button switches, but I think there's almost nothing in the circuit in-between the switch and the board.

Hey gang. My Baywatch is playing almost 100% but the last issue I'm having is I think my ball trough VUK is out of alignment and I'm having a bit of trouble coming up with a nice powerful kickout. Any tips on dialing in the alignment on the trough VUK?

While I'm notorious for doing that (helped me figure out my ramp issues I was having here) the issue with the design of this trough is that from what I can tell, there's really no place to visibly see the ball getting kicked out of its place.

I assumed that the access hole was to attempt to reach the right ramp exit switch, but as someone who has had to replace that switch, I can tell you for damn sure, it doesn't help you reach that switch.

Looks good can you edit it so the shark has a massive boner?

How loud? I'm going to guess you have a cold solder joint on one of the output amps.

Recap your sound board first. Then consider getting an isolated power supply for the sound board. A triple output +5/+12/-12 power supply solved all of my sound board issues that I was having.

The big DMD uses quite a bit of draw in the 12v line and I've found that I was able to both resolve my display computer resetting and sound and display scrambling issues by putting on new ribbon cables and getting an external power supply for the sound board. Might have been a bit excessive, but it also took away all of my noise issues.

It's a lot more complicated than that. It needs its own power tap and it's own software loaded onto it.

Looks so awesome. Don't listen to that guy about the apron cards. 95% of custom apron cards look like dogshit.

Excellent cabinet, you scored yourself a real looker.

If I were you I would buy a set of the NOS Sega Flipper Bats from Pinball Life to have on hand. Yours look a little crusty and I've seen plennnnnty of old flipper bats break with new titan or superbands on them.

Also WOW your wireforms look great.

Great job.

Anybody else having trough upkicker opto issues? I cannot seem to get mine aligned and staying there.

The LED OCD boards only have an effect on WPC games and I /think/ on Capcom games if you happen to have some. The GI on DE/Sega games is controlled by a relay on the PSU. The EnerGI Maestro board is what you're looking for, but they've long since gone into unobtanium land.

Or you could, you know, put in fresh incandescents like it was designed to have.

You're right. I didn't realize they made GI boards for Sys11, Stern, and Capcom. Apparently the LED OCD GIzmo board works for DE/relay based GI games. Seems like they're out of stock though.

To be clear though, the normal LED OCD boards are for controlled lamps, not GI.

If you want the fading of the original incandescents, it's either incandescent GI, or this board.

I'm having an issue where the opto on the trough is just never satisfied with its placement. it's inCREDIBLY hard to get it placed just right. I have the LED mounted FLUSH to the board, but I've never gotten it to stay consistent which is extremely irritating (although it doesn't actually affect gameplay, it throws off people's grove during competition).

Could it be that the LED isn't getting enough voltage and isn't bright enough so it's way more likely to report as misaligned?

I'm guessing so as well. Any tips on which LEDs to replace them with? The part number is MT5000UR but can't tell how different it is from any other LED. Seems to take 5v in which seems like a standard LED but I swear when I tried replacing that LED when I did my shop it just didn't work for some reason.

Nah man, hate to suck the fart out of every room, but the ones on PBL are the dual LED boards and have a different pinout and layout. You're telling me that those worked for you???
The single opto board set is $30 for a single led which feels a bit much.

Happy to report that replacing the LED with a regular ol' run of the mill ultra bright waterclear 5mm LED fixed the trough opto easily. Old LED was EXTREMELY dim in comparison.

New ask and this one is going to be the longest of long shots: my trough is just, plainly put, in bad shape. The metal is all doinked up. The trough has some crazy crazy divots in it. the up kicker guides are all bent out of shape in every which way... The part that I'm in most dire need of are item No. 1 (535-7330-00) on this diagram. If someone has a whole trough assembly, I'd consider that too.

It doesn't seem like anybody's repro'd this part and I'm not totally sure (or I haven't found) another Sega game that uses this same part. Any searches for it online come up with the 4 ball version with, if I'm not mistaken, isn't compatible because the height is so different (Baywatch shooting onto a wireform rather than the bare wood).

The issue I'm having is that the ball is getting stuck in-between the wire form and the trough up kicker eject when the up kicker. isn't giving it a strong enough of a push (due to the divots on the trough up kicker resting position due to the wrong up kicker plunger being in there for many many years and the ball having to try and try and try and try and try and try to kick up).

Any leads or thoughts?

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I have a repro that I'm not using.

Take the legs off and put it on milk crates.

The long version looks nice. That's my main stuck ball place on BW.

Does anybody else have trouble where the ball gets stuck inbetween the shooter VUK and the shooter lane wireform? I cannot seem to adjust those two to not fall perfectly inbetween those two pieces. Thinking of trying to 3D print something to make that area rounded rather than two metal pieces with a gap inbetween.

Here's an interesting one. I find that the display CPU reboots regularly on a few occasions. One is if I chimp flip the flippers immediately as the ball is coming out of the ball trough lockout area. Another is when I complete the running video mode.

I have repined and reflowed solder on the 5v logic connector and the 5V seems like it's been doubled up on the power supply connectors already.

Not crucial to gameplay. But it's odd...

I have downloaded all of them.

They are all trash.

The "stock package" has a ton of mis triggers and failed orchestrations.

The newer sounds packages are insanely hokey.

Yes

I also added my second EnerGI. Great product.

Moved my Baywatch this weekend. Thanks for all the help club members!

I think the regular ol' black lockdown bar look is the best. I think the blue color is /fine/ but it's the texture that looks off imo.

How do you feel about the quality of the decals? I"ve got ten a few things from Resto and have had mixed results.

there is a fix for this. It involves a thicker shooter land switch and a special 3d printed bracket. I believe the thingverse files are out there.

I had mine on location for a year and never had an issue with the shooter lane switch after I installed the mount. The opto board, now that's a different story.

Anybody have the folded height for Baywatch?