(Topic ID: 33977)

Baywatch Club....Members Only!

By dnhayden

7 years ago

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#1579 2 years ago

Just joined the club a few days ago. The game is working mostly fine, but the upper control gate seems to be sticking. In test mode it will work fine a couple times and then stick. If I gently touch it with my finger during the test, it will raise. I'm thinking it is either dirty or somehow binding. Do I have to remove all the ramps and plastics in the back right corner of the playfield to get to it?

#1580 2 years ago

I'm curious to know how the ball ejects from the shark hole on other people's games. On my game, it shoots out pretty hard and hits right between the two laser kick targets. Is it supposed to do this? It seems like this makes the game too easy because the kickback essentially gets re-lit every time you go in the shark hole.

#1584 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I don't recall the particulars with how to access this coil / gate.

Make sure the arm that pulls the gate open has as much leverage as possible. You definitely want this gate to be responsive.

Thanks! I got it working. It turns out you can access the coil from under the playfield. You just have to remove two screws and the whole assembly pops right out through a small hole. It's a very simple mech. There isn't even a plunger. It's just a small coil which causes a hinged lever to come down when activated, which in turn opens the gate. I couldn't see any reason why mine wasn't working, so I reflowed the solder to the coil and diode. It must have been a cold solder joint, because it's working great now.

That's one thing down. Just a couple more to go. The kickback is flaky and weak, and the shooter lane switch doesn't register half the time. These should be easy fixes, and then my game will be fully up and running.

#1588 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Make sure the kickback is aligned properly so it hits the ball dead on.

Thanks! I played around with it for a bit last night, but I actually made it worse. I'll look at it again today when I get a chance. There isn't a lot of wiggle room with the coil/plunger, so I may try tweaking the switch so it activates a little later.

#1590 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

There's a household trick to jazz up the coil, or rather the plunger rod. Rub the rod all over with aluminum foil. It will feel like new.

Aluminum is normally not magnetic but there's other things at play with objects in movement and current called Lenz law.

I wish I had read this before I just put the whole thing back together again.

I cleaned the plunger and coil sleeve really well, and slightly changed the alignment. It is working more consistently now, but it's still weaker than I would like. Is it fairly weak like this on most machines, or do some of you have kickbacks that fire the thing out of there like a cannon?

#1591 2 years ago

My hardware is kind of beat up, so I'm going to have everything powdercoated (legs, hinges, side rails and lockdown bar). I'm normally very conservative with stuff like this, but I think this game might be begging for something fun. What do you guys think would look best between red, yellow and white?

#1594 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Are you going to use a combination of all three colors? Could look cool...

No. I plan on going all red, all yellow, or all white. I'm leaning towards red.

Quoted from Whysnow:

I personally tried to make the wireforms dissappear on my game and went with blue. I think it helped them to not be so in your face.

I wasn't planing on doing anything with the wireforms. They are in pretty good shape, and I like the brass look.

#1595 2 years ago

I found this laying at the bottom of my cabinet today? Is this part of the game, and if so, where does it go? It appears to be some kind of insulating sheet.

P1080063 (resized).JPG

#1601 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Replace the shooter lane switch for sure. Had to do that on both my BWs ...

The switch appears to be fine. I bent the actuator up a bit, and it seems to be working well for for now. Fingers crossed.

#1602 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I think it's used to "shield" wires on the left side of inside cab.

Thanks! If someone has a photo of the shield installed, it would be much appreciated.

#1603 2 years ago

Is there any source for the SEGA/Sonic decal that came on the coin door from the factory? My game has one, but one corner is missing.

#1609 2 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

Is this it? Goes over back flipper board on left inside cabinet.

Yep. That appears to be it. Thanks!

Quoted from golfingdad1:

Here you go Sir,
This is taken straight down,
Looks like it should cover that pcb mounted on the left side of the cab

Awesome! Thanks so much for the photos!

#1611 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I need this as well . I don't have any sticker on my door at all.

I looked around briefly for it, but I wasn't able to find it at any of the usual places.

#1614 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Marcos looks like it has an entire package.

Yep. I just found this set for Star Wars Trilogy ...


That's definitely the right decal, but $39 is an insane price if all you need is the coin door decal.

#1617 2 years ago

Back in place. Thanks again, guys!

P1080066 (resized).JPG

#1630 2 years ago

Okay, I hate to jinx myself, but my game is finally playing 100%. Every time I thought I had everything fixed, something else would stop working. There must have been at least half a dozen cold solder joints that needed addressing. What a fun game! It's even better with Chad's new code. He did an amazing job on it!

Next, I'm going order a bunch of LED's for it. I'm not looking forward to doing the GI. Whose brilliant idea was it to staple all the GI sockets to the bottom of the playfield? Are all Sega games like this?

#1633 2 years ago

I just installed my first official mod ...

Baywatch keychain (resized).jpg

#1635 2 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I love it! Now I want one. Where did you find it?

amazon.com link »

#1638 2 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

so which is it? replace both roms or just 1? I was told if I have 4.0 installed I only need chads newest one.

This is correct. If you are already running display version 4.00, then all you need to do is swap out the CPU ROM with Chad's.

#1664 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

What news is this woman going to tell you?

Perhaps that she's pregnant?

#1675 2 years ago

I installed LEDs in all the controlled sockets last night. Kind of a pain in the ass getting the subway off. There must have been at least twenty screws holding that sucker down. I'm very happy with the results, though. The game looks great. As usual, it was a 100% custom job. I simply looked at the various inserts and went with the LED I thought worked best. I used all non-ghosting LEDs from Comet. Most of them were either frosted or clear 1 SMD bulbs, with some flexible ones thrown in here and there. The only thing I'm not sure I'm happy with are the frosted green ones I used for the three lock lights. They are a bit brighter than I would like, but to my knowledge they are the dimmest non-ghosters available. I could go the LED OCD route, but I do not feel this game needs it.

I did some of the GI, but only the stuff that was easy to get to. I don't want to do the rest until I have new rubbers for the game. This will prevent me from having to take the playfield apart twice. I installed cool white frosted 1 SMD bulbs under the slings and inlane plastics, and I also added a spotlight over each sling. This lights up the playfield nicely. One downside to the brighter GI is that there is a distracting reflection of the lower playfield bulbs in the DMD. This probably wouldn't affect most people, but I am 6'3", so I have a higher vantage point.

Here's a couple photos that show the reflection in the DMD I'm talking about ...

P1080079 (resized).JPG
P1080077 (resized).JPG

#1678 2 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

was able to get to all the insert lights without removing the subway.

How did you get to the ones by the left outlane? Both sockets are completely underneath the subway.

#1679 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

For any GI that I didn't want to remove PF items, I just did the change from below, took out the screw, changed bulb, put 'er back.

I wonder if your game was modified. All of my GI sockets are soldered and stapled to the playfield.

#1681 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Well, damn, maybe it wasn't Baywatch I did that then, lol.

Baywatch is the first game I've owned where I couldn't easily access all the GI from underneath the playfield. It also happens to be the first Sega I've owned. I guess this was one way for them to cut costs. It's not that big of a deal, since I have to take off a bunch of stuff anyway when I swap out all the rubber with Titan silicone rings.

#1683 2 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

As I recall, I was able to rotate the socket from underneath the subway. I will eventually remove that subway though to clean it. Its probably never been removed.

It's not hard to remove. Just a heck of a lot of screws.

#1687 2 years ago

PoMC, I love your custom painted guard tower. Did you do that yourself?

#1716 2 years ago

With Chad's code and some tweaking of the settings, I've found the game to be much more fun and challenging. I set it so that every lock must be earned, and I also lowered the drop target timer all the way down to 15 seconds. With these settings, I often have games where I don't even start multiball.

#1719 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Are you telling me you have disabled the ball locks after draining balls?

Quoted from FatPanda:

If I understand your question right, yes, there are no more "gimme" ball locks. you have to drop the bank of targets to light the locks, then shoot the tower.

Correct. With the way I have it set up, you have to earn every single lock by completing the drop target bank and then nailing the tower shot. This is only possible with Chad's code. With the stock code, it automatically lights the locks for you, whether you have earned them or not.

#1721 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Thats so cool. I need to try that code someday. Somebody needs to modify the automatic multiball on ball 3 on data east WWE as well.

Yeah, it's really annoying that all the DE games do that. Fortunately, Chad is slowly working his way through the Data East catalog. He's already done Tommy, TFTC, SW, JP and Hook.

#1728 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Set your machine to tournament rules in the settings and the third free multiball is gone with the dodo.

This method might get rid of the free multiball, but it also forces other changes like de-randomizing the 'Search and Rescue' awards. This is not ideal in a home environment.

#1730 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I think he was referring to WWF Royal Rumble.

Sorry. I got confused. This being a Baywatch thread and all ... Out of curiosity, does the tournament settings trick to get rid of the freebie multiball work on all DE/Sega games?

#1738 2 years ago

Can you guys backhand the left ramp (guard tower)? My left flipper is just strong enough to backhand it for a lock, but there is no way I can backhand it hard enough to go all the way up and around. I'm just curious to know if my flipper is weak, or this is normal.

#1745 2 years ago

Cool. So it sounds like most people's flippers are similar to mine. The people who can easily backhand the full ramp shot most likely have recently rebuilt flippers, or possibly even upgraded coils.

#1747 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

My flippers are freshly rebuilt and don't have the power to make a full left ramp backhand. I would also wonder what kind of coil is being used if you can do that.

It also could be that some people's flippers are adjusted differently than others. If your flipper is sitting just a little higher at rest than it's supposed to be, it would make it much easier to backhand the ramp.

#1757 2 years ago

I have some slight wear at the Shark hole. It's not too bad, but my OCD makes me want to cover it with a Cliffy. For those of you that have installed a Cliffy, does it alter the gameplay in any negative way?

#1758 2 years ago

I'm going to order a full set of Titan rubbers. Any color recommendations? I'm thinking the playfiled and inserts are already so colorful that white probably makes the most sense. Not sure what to do about the flippers. My game currently has blue rubbers on the main flippers, and red rubbers on the other two. This looks pretty good and I may leave them that way. Any other suggestions?

#1763 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I would recommend translucent, or grey if possible, for the shark flipper.

Quoted from PoMC:

Clear on the shark flipper looks best to me. That's what I use.

Thanks! think I might give the translucent a try. To me, the upper flipper is the toughest one to decide on because of the unique pink color. It's hard to envision what color would compliment it best while still fitting in with the rest of the artwork.

#1764 2 years ago

Still waiting on some feedback about the Cliffy.

#1768 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I couldn't remember what flipper color I had on the upper left flipper. Here are the pics including the clear band on the shark flipper.

Thanks for the photos! I never would have thought to put yellow on the upper flipper, but it looks good. What is that reflection I'm seeing near the glass channel? Do you have Pin Stadium lights?

Also, can anyone tell me the purpose of the Ironman light? You would think it would start flashing when you are one shot away from spelling IRONMAN, or be used for some other clever purpose. As it stands, it seems like a rather pointless controlled lamp.

#1777 2 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

What feedback do you need?

I just wanted to make sure it didn't make the shot significantly harder to hit. On some games, the Cliffy really changes the gameplay. For example, the lock shot is so much harder to hit on I500 when there is a Cliffy installed.

1 week later
#1800 2 years ago

I finally got my Titan order today. The first thing I tried was a grey rubber on the shark flipper, and I love it! The color is almost a perfect match, and it makes it look like one big shark fin. I tried some different colors on the main flippers, but I didn't like the way the game played with the Titans, so I ended up putting back on the normal blue rubber.

Shark Flipper (resized).jpg

#1801 2 years ago

I noticed a little hole today by the drop targets. Is there supposed to be a post there, and if so, what kind?

Mysterious Hole (resized).jpg

#1806 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Probably a similar one as the top with red rubber? I don't have my machine in front of me. Do a google image search.

I found a good photo of it in the Pinside archive. It looks like it's supposed to be a metal post with no rubber or sleeve on it. I'd be hesitant to put the post back in. The wood is very narrow there, and it's already starting to split a little on my game. You can even see it starting to split on the game in the photo. I wonder if someone who owned the machine before me purposely removed it because of this.

Baywatch drop targets.jpg

#1808 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Just screw it back in together with some wood bondo type like Plastic Padding wood filler. That area does not receive too heavy hits.

It seems like it could get bashed pretty hard by a direct hit from the upper flipper.

#1814 2 years ago

Anyone know where I can get new decals for the kickback targets?

#1827 2 years ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

This just showed up on ColorDMD’s Facebook page. Looks like we’ll be getting BW colorized from them sooner or later

That's awesome! I wonder if it's a teaser for BW specifically, or just the larger Sega DMD games in general? The only Sega game I've ever owned is BW. Do they all have that same Sonic animation?

1 week later
#1854 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Anyone ever powder coat a BW or hook up an external sub ?

I think I'm going to powdercoat mine red. I don't normally powdercoat games, but my legs and siderails are scuffed up pretty bad, so I might as well do something fun!

#1867 2 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

Why red? Go ocean blue or yellow.

I feel like there is already so much blue on the game. Red just seems like it would complement the playfield and cabinet artwork better.

#1874 2 years ago

I've been noticing a lot of unexpected ball saves as well. Unfortunately, I have very little time on the normal code, so I don't know how it differs from Chad's in this regard.

Quoted from maffewl:

Listen (or look) to make sure it's not going into the subway return hole. You will hear it kick out to go back into the trough. I have mine set up at the standard level and a clean drain on the right can have enough force to roll its way up there. Also, if you know about it, you can also give it a bump to help it along to get a ball save. The players in your league may have realized this as well.

Interesting. It never even dawned on me that a drained ball could be saved in this way. I'll definitely pay closer attention from now on.

#1876 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Only changes to Ball Save in 4.01 were:

Start-Of-Ball Ball Save timer was increased from 5 seconds to 7 seconds.
Shark Scoop/Laser Kick Ball Save timer was increased from 2 to 3 seconds.

Thanks for the info, Chad! This makes me think that it really must be the ball hitting the subway switch as maffewl suggested. This seems like a design flaw, and there probably should have been some sort of one-way gate there.

#1879 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Just arrived! Protective film still covering it ...

Is that NOS? Where did you buy it from?

#1884 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Just arrived! Protective film still covering it.

Quoted from aerobert:

Sorry but I think pinball.centers plastics are total shit. Hope this is better and it works out for you.

So what's the verdict northerndude? Is it a quality repro, or is it "shit"?

#1886 2 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I just peeled both sides back a bit and it seems very good, great color, and it’s nice and thick. Quite pleased !

Great to hear! How are you planning on attaching it to the top of the game?

1 week later
#1902 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

You need to grasp it tightly and pull gently until in comes out. It is similar to most other cabinet button light sockets.

Yep. If it hasn't been removed in a while, it may take quite a bit of force, but you just pull it straight back and it will pop off. Once removed, you may want to consider replacing the bulb with an LED. If you do so, however, you will want to use one without a dome. You will also probably have to file down the sides of the LED with a Dremel in order to get it to fit.

1 week later
#1930 2 years ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

I own baywatch and always look to see what my machines are selling for. Saw a sale on eBay for one and the guy listed it as “rare”. His “rare” comment made me curious and I went out to see how many were produced and could not find anything.

Ever notice how every game on eBay is supposedly "rare"? It's so funny. It doesn't even matter what game it is ... "Addams Family Pinball Machine **ULTRA RARE** ... LMAO

1 week later
#1996 2 years ago

I'm very excited for the ColorDMD, but that's a heck of a lot of money to spend on an upgrade for a $2,000 game.

#2015 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

It was a $2K game a year ago. Show me a decent one selling for that now (even without the ColorDMD).

Quoted from northvibe:

It was a 2k and less year or two ago...it is 2500+ now. Show me a BW for 2k now. I've only found them for 2600+ all around the US.

I purchased mine in late December for $2K even. Perhaps I got a really good deal. I guess there's a first time for everything ...

#2017 2 years ago

Don't get me wrong, I think the fact that a ColorDMD now exists for the game is awesome. For anyone with an original DMD that's going bad, it's a no-brainer. I just think percentage wise, it's a heck of a lot of money to shell out. I currently have ColorDMDs in six of my games, but the least expensive of those games is around $5K. On the other hand, ColorDMDs seem to be one of the few mods that you can get most of your money back when you sell the game. Plus, if the buyer doesn't want it, you can always remove it and install it in another game or sell it to someone else.

#2020 2 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

Cost of the display versus game value, the additional work required to port everything to 192x64, and the small number of games that use this format were all factors in timing support for Baywatch and large format displays. The Baywatch display has over 12,000 individual RGB LEDs and cost for the modules themselves is more than 3.5x that of a standard display.

Also, that's a lot of work to color all those dots! At $469 you're getting a full 100% colorized display, priced BELOW new plasma displays (lowest price I found was $495... most vendors don't carry them anymore).

The work Eric has done with this game and the incredible amount of detail in this colorization is a true game-changer. The attract score image barely scratches the surface. There are features in the Baywatch colorization that you've never seen before on any previous ColorDMD, and we're excited for the reveal at TPF.


Please don't misunderstand me. I wasn't complaining about the actual cost of the display itself. I know how much work went into the development of this, and I think the price is absolutely fair. I was simply saying that it was a bit more difficult of a decision for me given the cost of the display vs. the cost of the game. I'll probably end up buying one anyway, because it's just so damn cool, and Eric is amazingly good at doing the colorizations. Whatever you are paying that guy, it's not enough.

#2021 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

You did get a good deal. I'd buy 6 of those at that price right now. Think about what you have in this machine for $2K and then compare that to what you get in a new Stern for $7K. No brainer. You saved $5K and have a machine with a high fun factor and solid code - why wouldn't you put a $500 upgrade in it?

Bear in mind, I purchased mine before ColorDMD made the announcement. I think all large display Sega games probably jumped in value instantaneously when the news broke.

#2065 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Has anyone installed the LEDOCD board? Asking as my wife loves playing Baywatch but can't handle the constant flashing of the GI lighting. Hoping to find away to keep LED's and smooth out or disable the flashing.

There is actually a board designed specifically to address this. It's called the EnerGI Maestro ...


Edit: Looks like PTHermes beat me to the punch.

#2107 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Sorry, no vid capabilities, but WOW!

What? Still using a flip phone?

#2122 2 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

From a friend at TPF ...

Thanks for sharing the video. It looks incredible!

#2140 2 years ago

It took a long time, but this game is finally getting the respect it deserves. Chad's code obviously helped, but it was still a great game even before that.

#2150 2 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

I haven’t seen the new Duracell Lithium’s yet. Hope they are less $ than the energizers

They are expensive, but you don't have to change them very often. I've had the same ones in some of my games for more than 5 years.

1 week later
#2161 2 years ago

I need a new sticker as well.

#2169 2 years ago

I fixed your original post sudsy7. It now has the correct sized card.

2 weeks later
#2229 2 years ago
Quoted from Robb63:

I have a few extras $15 each with free shipping?

PM sent.

#2243 2 years ago

I finally got to check out the ColorDMD in Baywatch at MGC this weekend! The thing looks awesome! Eric did an amazing job as usual on the colorization.

#2268 2 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

ColorDMD pre-order is up!! I'm excited.


Thanks for the heads-up! I just placed my order.

#2276 2 years ago
Quoted from Dmod:

ColorDMD X-LED DISPLAY! Limited Pilot Run
We are now accepting orders through our store site. Target shipping date is May 5, 2018.
Product Announcement and Preorder Information: https://mailchi.mp/c321213bea50/new-colordmd-x-led-192x64-displays-preorder-now

Super excited for this! Will the Baywatch firmware be available to download when they ship?

1 week later
#2343 2 years ago

Just installed mine. Looks fantastic!

Also, the box it comes in makes a great box to ship out your old DMD if you decide to sell it.

#2353 2 years ago

The ColorDMD is amazing! It truly does look fantastic. I played the game for about an hour last night, and I smiled every time I looked up at the screen.

#2366 2 years ago

Shoot Randy a PM through Pinside. He's dmod

#2368 2 years ago

The higher resolution of the ColorDMD in Baywatch makes it look way better than the normal size ColorDMDs. I was originally on the fence because it costs so much, but now I would recommend it to anyone who owns a Baywatch without hesitation. Plus, you can defray some of the cost by selling your old one.

1 week later
#2409 2 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Also is anyone else having trouble with their shooter lane switch? I had the game at home for years with not issue then I put it on location and it has broken 3 times now.

It took a lot of tweaking to get mine just right, including adjusting the actuator as well as the height of the habitrail.

#2420 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

With the second and third skill shot the upper right gate isn’t opening until the ball has just bounced off of it. Seems to be at least a full second delayed. What can cause this? Seems like a pretty simple small coil and 2-3” lever.

I had the exact same problem with mine. I solved it by doing two things. First, I re-flowed the solder to the coil to make sure it had a good connection. Next, I bent the metal lever down a bit so it was closer to the magnet. It has been working perfectly ever since.

#2425 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Found an issue with the ColorDMD on the jiggly tits (every girl jiggling) match screen. One of the girls had I think "1P" flashing behind her and the bottom half of her was flashing yellow while the top was white/gray.

This has been fixed in the latest code which hasn't officially been released yet.

#2463 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Made it to Earthquake mode a few minutes ago. Should the "Balls Draining" screen when Earthquake mode times out be colored? It appeared to be all shades of blue. Not sure if anyone else spotted that yet.

If it's all blue, then it has not been colorized yet. Good catch. Sadly, I'm not good enough to make it to that mode ...

#2471 2 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Blue balls draining.

I'm confused. I thought you get blue balls by NOT draining?

1 week later
#2490 2 years ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

After I Run Lunar IPS to patch BAYWATCH-CPU-401-patch.ips I get BAYCPUA.400 that is still 64KB just a different time. Is this correct?

Yep. That's the correct size. Just burn the new file to a 512 chip and you should be good to go.

2 months later
#2545 1 year ago

Here's a simple mod that drastically improves gameplay. Remove the clear plastic over the right ramp just behind the "Search and Rescue" sign. On my machine, fast balls would occasionally get rejected because of the plastic. Now that shot is smooth as butter.

3 weeks later
#2557 1 year ago

I could be wrong, but I think that adjustment is for the diverter above the shark flipper. If set to yes, it will open during multiball so you can lock a ball in there. I believe this gives you double scoring until the ball is released.

#2566 1 year ago
Quoted from Ive:

I can't get my head around the original Adjustment ??? ............. why would it ever open in Multiball anyway ??

I agree. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

1 week later
#2585 1 year ago
Quoted from Ive:

Who else has this happen a lot ..........
'Tourist Season' mode begins ! ...woo yeah ....awesome This time I'm gonna *really* nail it.
*instantly loses a ball*
'Tourist Season' mode over.
I can't remember the last time I had a decent crack at it. The curse of the the 2 ball mode. See also ....every other 2 ball mode in pinball

LOL! You are not alone. I completed all the shots yesterday, but that's a rarity. More often than not, I quickly drain just like you described.

3 weeks later
#2617 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Agreed - I just have so many other keeper games that I rather purchase a colorDMD for, and repair thing one cheaply (if possible) in the interim. I'm not holding my breath, but maybe this can be repaired as the LEDs work, they are just dim?

The good news is that the introduction of the ColorDMD has significantly lowered the price of used ones.

1 month later
#2663 1 year ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code?

I can burn the chip for you.

3 weeks later
#2696 1 year ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

I’d be eternally grateful if someone could find a moment to measure and post the actual dimensions of their glass.

I just measured mine, and it's approximately 26 1/2" x 19 3/4". The PinWiki dimensions were wrong. I've reached out to the person who manages that page.

#2698 1 year ago
Quoted from Wharhed:

Btw - was that with or without the trim installed?

It was with the trim installed, but I tried to measure just the glass as accurately as I could. Unfortunately, I couldn't easily remove the trim because it still had the super sticky factory black tape.

#2701 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

My shooter lane switch has died for the third or fourth time this year. Why in the hell does this keep happening? Anyone got any ideas!?

The actual micro switch broke four times, or the actuator needed to be adjusted?

#2705 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Mine failed also. BUT, in test mode it works perfect.
When the ball get ejected into the shooter lane, I get the clunk, then wait for the Shooter button to light up then I can plunge. I don’t know what the hell.......

In order to get it to work consistently on my game, I had to bend the wireform down a bit so the ball was sitting closer to the switch.

#2708 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Yes I have replaced the whole switch three or four times this year, last time I ordered a replacement I just got a bunch of them, the switch seems to completely fail, won't work in game or test mode. It is like something is electronically killing them it feels like. Makes no sense to me.

That's not normal. Perhaps something is out of spec which is causing those switches to fail so quickly. Have you checked the voltages?

2 months later
#2800 1 year ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Are you able to backhand the lock ramp?

I can backhand the lock shot, but I can't backhand it all the way up the ramp.

#2802 1 year ago
Quoted from grantopia:

The "light orbit" on the right inlane roll over...what does this do? I hear a sound when I hit the switch but nothing seems to light? I assumed it would light the left orbit for some sort of hurry up shot but maybe I'm just missing it...

I believe it just triggers the diverter to allow the ball to complete the full orbit. It's a weird insert and isn't very well integrated into the game.

1 month later
#2872 1 year ago
Quoted from throughfire:

i still got problems with the 'skillshot gate'. 2 out of 3 times it opens too late. In testmode its not opening any time i test it, very randomly. what could it be?

I was having similar issues with mine when I first got the game. The magnet wasn't strong enough to consistently open the gate, so I reflowed the solder to the coil and the diode. I also slightly bent the metal hinged lever so it was sitting a bit closer to the coil. After performing these tweaks, the gate has been working perfectly ever since. You can access the coil from under the playfield. You just have to remove two screws and the whole assembly pops right out through a small hole.

#2876 1 year ago
Quoted from throughfire:

...but just about 5 minutes after fixing it, the 3 pictured lights went out (led) and stopped working. i put new bulbs in, but they still wont light. known problem on a baywatch/sega? what can i do?

Try re-seating the connector to that light board. If that doesn't work, remove the board from the game and carefully reflow the solder on the connector pins.

3 weeks later
#2935 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

... you wanna make sure you get the GI lighting right the first time on Baywatch. If you decide you're not happy and want to swap out the GI LEDs, be prepared to tear down most of the playfield again to reach all the bulbs.

Amen! I bought a bunch of LEDs for the GI when I first got the game about a year and a half ago, and I still haven't gotten around to installing them all. I just have never felt like taking all that crap apart to get to the sockets. I hate that you can't do it from below the playfield.

#2946 1 year ago
Quoted from Rocketrob:

has anyone replaced the foam pieces behind the standup targets i just ordered replacements and was wondering how the new ones need to be secured.

They are usually self adhesive.

11 months later
#3379 3 months ago
Quoted from ChadH:

ep! The Skill Shot point values were adjusted...

The "easy" Top Lanes SPF shot is only worth 10M.
The "harder" Shark Hole shot changed from 20M to 40M.
The "hardest" Side Ramp shot is 50M.

Interestingly, I find the Shark Hole shot to be the harder than the side ramp.

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