Quoted from foxtj24:

I have had 2 of them now. I set them both up with all 4 leg levelers all the way up into the leg. Normal sterns I make the back 1" higher then the front. Not for baywatch.

Quoted from gweempose:

I believe it just triggers the diverter to allow the ball to complete the full orbit. It's a weird insert and isn't very well integrated into the game.

Quoted from northerndude:

For number 2.
The RST initials is from the “shark award” high score. It comes up when you hit the shark scoop. Get a better score on shark award and put your initials in.

Quoted from TopMoose:

Shark awards are triggered by the rollover switch just above the shark flipper. The ball has to pass through that lane and immediately go in the shark hole without hitting any other switches to score the award - the shark standup targets aren't involved. Northerndude is correct about RST being the initials of the Shark Flip Champion.
"Light Orbit" just opens the ball gate on the upper right of the play field (which is probably the noise you hear) allowing the ball to go all the way around the top arch. Otherwise, when the gate stays down, the ball is stopped and goes through the top lanes, into the pops.

Quoted from Langless28:

Your display reset mostly likely due to a voltage drop to the driver board.

Quoted from PTHermes:

I've experienced the same, I assumed it was a voltage drop or something, but maybe it is code related.

Quoted from Langless28:

The display driver is more sensitive to 5 volt drops than any of the other boards.

Quoted from Tsskinne:

It has to be something physical with the game. On the original code it barely ever worked for me, on the Chad code it is rare that it doesn't work.

Quoted from V_piscopo:

You could always take a couple windings out of that coil or buy a more powerful coil? Mine works every time which Chad H code and I think a lot of it is finding the perfect slope for your machine.

Quoted from Chalkey:

Figure out when it is resetting and see if you can replicate it.

Quoted from Langless28:

you could also power the dmd with an auxiliary 5v power supply and see if the resetting keeps happening. then you could 100% rule out if its a power supply issue or something else.

Quoted from Ive:

So it absolutely 100% ONLY happens in those 2 scenarios ?? Strange
I had DMD resetting that plagued me for ages - had the 5V upgrade, changed connectors, reflowed joints. The issue would come and go. Finally I swapped the ribbon cable for another. Touch wood ...hasn't reset for months now. Have you swapped ribbons ? Might be worth a shot.

Quoted from Pinballocks:

Grant I swapped both cables. My problem was the pins on the controller.

Quoted from jorro:

If you suspect the code, then put in the old roms see what happens
I think its a voltage drop reset

Quoted from northerndude:

If you get
The updated Chad Code it will drastically reduce problems with flashers and GI flashing

Quoted from PTHermes:

So I haven't gotten video mode since I upgraded code, so I took off the glass, and can't even get it then.... Please confirm that video mode (water ski) is attained by getting all the shark targets, and then getting the shark hole. Just want to make sure that is correct before I mess with anything. Thanks.

Quoted from Chalkey:

Oh my bad. I had to align my launcher so that it hit the ball straight on, I remember that it was cocked to one side. Loosened and retightened and it helped a lot.

Quoted from northvibe:

Has anyone had this issue, boot the game, hit start, and the Hoff only days, baywatch will be. Boards were recently repaired, chads rom installed.

Quoted from Grandnational007:

Mine does the "Baywatch will be <abrupt end>" at initial power up. (to clarify, NOT during the start of a new game when the machine is already powered on...)
From what I understand, this is normal. I've seen something about this before as to why it happens, but as I recall, it has no effect on anything.

Quoted from per3per3:

I realize that there are past posts covering this subject, but I'm curious to get some fresh opinions / recommendations. My main flippers are weak and I'm planning to rebuild them with a new kit from pinball life. My playfield is level and I dropped the angle down to 6.5 which I actually don't like because it plays kinda slow and floaty.
My question is about which coils to get. Right now, I have the correct coils from the manual: 90-5030-00 on the left and 90-5020-00 on the right. Other pinsiders have stated that they are using the GnR special coils instead.
Any recommendations would be great as I'd love stronger flippers so I can raise the playfield angle a bit and get back to enjoying this bad boy.
Also, the Lazer kick is kinda weak and I'm curious what recommendations you have on that

Quoted from per3per3:

Also, regarding the last post, does anyone have their coil pulse power set to High in the Sega adjustments menu? I'm not home now but didn't realize that adjustment was available. I read that the game has a bug in it where the upper control gate doesn't work properly with the coil power set to High. I do have chad's code installed so not sure if that code bug is fixed

Quoted from Happy81724:

Will it say 4.01 when I load it or is it best to check my Roma on the board? I don’t know if I have them but I’ll buy them for sure

Quoted from maffewl:

I'd start by checking the shooter lane switch and trough switches. If all are good, I'd next check the switches in the same line.

Quoted from fatality83:

Just joined the club again on saturday! This was a repeat game for me and one I regretted after selling right away. This one is much nicer then my old so it worked out good in the end. It will be nailed down to the floor in my game room for sure. Was all led'd out, color dmd added, shopped ect. The game is really in very good condition with barley any scratches or marks. Such a fun game. Brought back so many great memories to play it again. The color DMD really brings that huge display to life! What mode or switch do I have to hit to get mitch to say best office in the world? It was something I remember from my old game doing it but can't remember what makes it say that?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DHVincent:

Having some problems, unsure if they are related or all caused by the same thing...
When I would start my BW, it would say 'Baywatch will be right back' and work as normal. After a few minutes, the sound would drop out, but the call outs would work, then it would say bay watch will be right back over and over.
After resetting some cables, the sound problem seems to be ok. However, now the screen goes black and resets, showing the version screen. Also when you turn it on, it says 'baywatch will be...' and then loads as normal.
I already have a rottendog board installed. Any ideas? Thanks!

Quoted from TenaciousT:

The switch in the vuk might be bad . Go to switch test to see. They have a bad rep. of going bad ! If you have to order a new switch - get 2.

Quoted from RyanStl:

New member here. My wife and I drove to Cincinnati this weekend to pick up our new Baywatch from a fellow pinsider. The whole family is really loving it, as we haven't had a DMD game since I sold my DW five years ago.
I have been looking to buy an early DMD game for a couple months, but kept striking out. My wife was feeling sorry for me and started looking herself to see what's available. She knows nothing about pinball, but theme is very important to her. She loves Marvel and kept saying what aobut this, and I say it's xxxx money, then nevermind. She came across Baywatch and said said you didn't tell me they made a Baywatch pinball. I immediately had approval to up my budget, so search was on. Patience isn't our strong suit, so we did a short road trip to pick one up.
Quick question, as I haven't had time to dig in. The shark Vuk doesn't eject balls unless there is a ball search. Maybe it's just an adjustment issue? I'll try to figure it out tomorrow, but I'm still learning this stuff. This is the first Sega I've not only owned, but ever played.
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Quoted from RyanStl:

Oops, used a pencil to push down and got nothing. I'm going to figure out how to test the switch other ways. Maybe it's a Sega thing, but the diagnostics don't seem to run the tests. Lots to learn.
Edit: Ok, dummy me wasn't closing the coin door for the diagnostic tests. All switches register when activated except the shark scoop. I suppose that means bad switch.?
I'm putting together a LED list. Has anyone done this and can share? I don't want a pre-assembled kit, becuase I have a mix of LED and incandescent.

Quoted from RyanStl:

It's a loop microswitch. I'm digging through this thread and there are links to replacements switches that is a Y design and I see other threads about the shark scoop with similar information that it's probably a bad switch. I'm going to order one soon and try to replace. Bummer I didn't notice this yesterday until I got it home. I'm going to consider it a learning experience, as this is something I need to learn to deal with. Right now I'm going to plug the hole, so we don't have multiple ball searches each game when a boll goes down the shark scoop.
Edit: Hooray! It was a loose diode on the switch. Must have come loose in transit. I still need to get a decent soldering iron, but electrical tape has it together for now. This machine cleaned up nice. Now all I need to do is order LEDs and I'm set.

Quoted from RyanStl:

Same, I'm not going to buy a ROM burner and ROMs for one game to do myself. Matt's ROMs are talked highly of in this thread. His price is really good, as shipping is almost more. I'll donate to Chad when I get it working. I'm really looking forward to it.
Also, just realized Pinball Life has the NVRAM, not Comet. Now I need to get a basket going there.
Does anyone have the color code for the blue cabinet paint? I have some spots I would really love to touch up.

Quoted from fsumassey:

I just picked up a Baywatch! I'm having an issue with the multiball. When I get the 3rd lock the multiball starts but I'm not getting that last ball that did the 3rd lock. Once I get down to only one ball on the playfield the multiball is still going on. If I drain it then it will do a ball search and then shoot out a ball to continue play. Could anyone help me with this issue? Big thanks in advance!

Quoted from fsumassey:

I'll check that out for sure. Thanks for the advice. It's just strange that it recognizes all the balls when I start a game. If there was a trough switch issue wouldn't it be trying to find a ball continuously?

Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I have a weird problem. The balls in the trough get wedged forward sometimes, and don't quite hit all the switches. When this happens, and you drain a ball, you have to wait for a ball search, which will cause the balls to reseat. I attached some pics to show what I mean.
Any ideas on fixing this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Grandnational007:

Hmmm, place a small, clear bumper at the end of the trough (like the kind that you use to prevent cabinet doors from banging into the frames? maybe a thin wood shim cut the exact thickness of the trough and slid straight up from underneath to act as a spacer?
Also, could the balls be magnetized?
I still occasionally have a phantom failure of having a ball kicked from the trough to the "shooter lane staging area" (or whatever we are calling it, haha), even after replacing/rebuilding the optos and grommets and re-aligning them. Usually giving the game a gentle love tap on the right side of the cabinet while the trough is cycling will get it to kick a ball, but at times (almost always going into ball 3 of a monster game, of course), the game won't ever get a ball into the staging area, the game autoplunges a phantom ball that isn't in the trough, then ends the ball. Happens once every couple of weeks, and I can't pinpoint it.
I'll have to look at my trough better this week, and see if I can't get it squared away...

Quoted from ThatOneDude:

No, it is just wedged up at the front. That's the problem. The action of the ball search jogs them all back into place.

Good idea. I'll replace the balls. I would think that a shim would make the problem worse, since there would be less room for the balls.

I'll try this, too. Maybe I just need to polish the heck out of the trough while I'm at it.