Seattle, WA
I like the palm trees.
(Topic ID: 33977)
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gogojohnnyquack.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from Clytor:Anyone else running their Baywatch through a sub? I picked up the new Pinnovators pcb that taps right into the speaker wires of the bottom speaker. It attenuates the signal down to line level to feed a powered sub. It sounds pretty great on this game. The slings, shark hole and few other things have some nice lower frequency audio.
I run all my games through Pinnovators' taps. They run into a 4>1 mixer that feeds my sub. It's amazing how much deep bass there is on these games. @marka and @sgsa at Pinnovators have always been super responsive and helpful.
1 year later
Quoted from PeterG:Where is the dino coming from in the first few seconds the game starts?
That dino looks to be the extra ball animation from The Lost World Jurassic Park without the people it's chasing.
1 month later
Quoted from allsportdvd:It was most of the row not just the 2 slingshots so made an adjustment to the flipper board funny enough and it seems fine for now
What kind of adjustment did you make to the flipper board?
4 months later
Quoted from RyanStl:Just ordered a ColorDMD and I can't wait to put it in. Anyone have experience installing and what it comes with for your BW? Does it come with new ribbon cable for instance?
You'll dig it. It will come with some extra hardwire to use along with the existing hardware, and the required power cable. No new ribbon cable. Install is super easy. Have a USB memory stick ready to go with the ROM file loaded on it.
1 month later
Quoted from CosmoConstant:What does the BAYWATCH v.4.01 UNOFFICIAL PATCH do? I’m thinking about getting this machine and would like to know what kinds of upgrades and updates that there are and what do they do. Thank you.
All details can be found at Chad the programmer's site:
https://www.pinballcode.com/bw401
I've been looking for a Baywatch for a while and was finally able to get one in an Italian container buy. It was super filthy and needed flipper boards but I'm working my way through it. Here's a filthy 'before' and some shiny 'after' pics:
1 week later
Quoted from ddebuss:A friend of mine has a Baywatch where the button fell out/apart. He sent me the pieces and asked me to reproduce the broken part. Attached are photos of the pieces put back together the best I can from the parts. Also attached is the cad drawing of the replacement. I have questions about it I'm hoping this group can help with.
Where does the broken part go? My friend didn't get a look at it before it was broken and pieces were scattered. By looking at it I presume it goes behind the button with the nut around it to hold it in. If so I'm puzzled why are those notches there. Anyone know why they are there and if they are important? If they are important then is the size/shape important? It's a very specific design so I can't imagine it's not important in some way. It may be a repurposed part but I can't find what it's based from. Thanks!
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
You caught me right at the point in my refurbish of taking this assembly out to clean!
Those pieces are part of the front button housing. They should be the back plate of the frame that surrounds the button:
The holes in it are used for the threaded spring housing to clip into it. My spring housing has one of the clips broken off but still holds sufficiently.
IMG_0140 (resized).jpeg 3 weeks later
Here's a new one for me - going through Baywatch verifying that all the switches work and the only one left is the Trough VUK Opto #15. The transmitter LED is glowing bright red so it's working. I pull the receiver board and it looks ok until I put it under the magnifier...
Uh, what happened to the Q2 transistor??? Looks like it blew in spectacular fashion given the missing and peeled back traces!
There's another parts order.
2 weeks later
FYI - Caution Alert on Rotten Dog FLP023 flipper boards - They are much larger than the OEM boards and interfere with the Shark Hole Super Scoop VUK when lowering the playfield, so the front one needs to be mounted to the floor of the cabinet.
Baywatch flipper (resized).jpg
And with that my Baywatch is finally ready to move out of the shop and into the collection! Still need to clean the outside of the cabinet and repair a splintered part of the head but that can wait - I need to play this baby!
Quoted from isJ:Thanks, wondering about socket part # and quantity if anyone did this and had a learning experience
Pages 54/55 in the manual have the socket types, part numbers, and quantities. If you don't have a hard copy you can download one at ipdb.org. I didn't replace any on mine though there are a few that I really should.
Also, for those with LEDs, Comet now has a model with colored lenses! No more boring frosted white or gross old colored bulb condoms over the ramps and in the Guard House!
Capture (resized).PNGCapture3 (resized).PNGCapture2 (resized).PNG
Quoted from isJ:Thanks all - I have ordered some parts and am waiting. Sounds like it'll take a weekend to get it up and done, excited to refresh it -- really fun game as is and it'll be great to have it looking like it plays.
Any tips for wireform cleaning besides sending them off to be redone? Never-Dull and elbow grease?
The wireforms are brass plated then clear coated. All they need is a wipe down. The spots that look dirty are most likely where the clear coat has failed and the underlying brass has tarnished, which doesn't easily come clean. I spoke with Chris at PinballPlating.com a few months ago about sending my set in through his exchange program. As you can imagine, he is WAY BACKORDERED. He had someone else ahead of me for the Baywatch set and let me know that it was going to be about a YEAR before he would be able to do mine.
I contacted two local metal plating shops (one named Art Brass Plating) and they both turned down the job. So I went to my powder coater and we picked out a brass-style finish that should have looked just like clear coated brass. Unfortunately it turned out more like a rich gold color. Not terrible but not what we were hoping for. I may still send them off for brass when the time comes but we'll see...
Getting Baywatch adjusted now and it comes out of the launch ramp pretty slowly - slowly enough that it drops into the pops instead of continuing around and down to the shark flipper area. I'll up the coil power to high and see how it goes - any other advice?
1 week later
Quoted from Dantesmark:Im having an issue where when i power on the game the launcher starts activating and continues to do so while playing. Other things that are happening are when i drain it takes like 10 seconds for the game to realize that its in the trough.
Im guessing its a switch issue in tge trough or shooter lane but not sure where to start...
Go into switch test and check those switches out. Sounds like a stuck/failed trough switch to me.
1 week later
Hey Baywatchers. I'm almost done with my overhaul and am now in the tweaking and adjusting phase. My main issue is that the ball is getting hung up on the launch ramp just before it drops onto the playfield above the in-lanes. It is hitting the guard tower exit wire ramp bracket above (pics below). I have tried raising the guard tower assembly but there isn't enough clearance until it interferes with the glass above. I have tried bending the assembly but it quickly moves back into the same position.
Any ideas or advice? I'm going to post a separate thread to maybe get LTG input as well. He is the omniscient wizard!
Quoted from isJ:Just finished shopping mine and had the same problem. Fixed it by adding a nut to raise the ramp sligly.
[quoted image]
That did the trick, @isjack. Thank you! Now to get the ball to consistently continue through the gate to the upper ball launch/shark flipper, get the right side of the back box GI working, and figure out why the right flipper sometimes goes dead... Ain't pinball grand?!
Thanks, again. I may bend that end point mount for the skill shot ramp to lower the exit even more. The shooter mech is completely cleaned and I have aligned it as close to center as possible but the mount holes need to be filed larger to allow more adjustment. I'll do that tonight. Chad's code seems to have made the consistency better and I believe turned the power to the coil up.
1 week later
Quoted from SirMachismo:Next time I will try the stuff i buy at Home Depot.
Yah, it's weatherstripping. I have a roll that I use to rebuild targets. First I clean the old off, then stick the end of the roll on the target and trim to size - I don't pre-cut it. Never thought of using a smaller piece for more sensitivity, that's a great tip! Here's my Shark Targets after the rebuild:
1 week later
Quoted from thrillhousejames:My BW is on location and I have had to replace the shooter lane switch every 2 weeks, so I had an engineer bud whip up a bracket to mount the switch onto as it being on the coil is a pretty poor design. Had to bend the rollover switch in a weird way but it works great! We can print more if anyone is interested, would expect it to be about 15 shipped to USA.
[quoted image]
Pics of a NIB Apollo 13 show that it has a shooter/launcher assembly very similar to Baywatch. One key difference is the microswitch #515-6514-00 that appears to have a big thick blade for an actuator instead of the thin wire. I would think that this would stand up to the side hits from the VUK eject much better than the wire. Also, I saw that the switch body was white instead of black - is this a more heavy duty switch body? A search for this part number only came up with out-of-stock overseas listings. Apollo 13 came out later in 1995 than Baywatch, was this an improvement made that that mech?
Quoted from SirMachismo:I also straighten the shark targets out of embarrassment after seeing the ones on Gogojohnnyquack Baywatch.
I am honored to have inspired you! Your Shark targets look great and that hammerhead mod is sweet!
My last gremlin to kill is why my lower flippers occasionally stop working. It may be flipper switch related since when I clean them they work fine for a while, but then during game play they will come and go. I'm using Rottendog universal flipper boards and am sure that the dip switches are set correctly. The manual's troubleshooting guide says to check the ground (black wires) connection on the switches, which check out fine.
Anyone have any ideas?
Quoted from thrillhousejames:I've had a lot of issues with EOS switches on Data East and Sega machines of the era. The flipper opening the switch can bend it overtime and it will be open even though it visually looks closed, resulting in lower flippers not working. Replacement EOS are HORRIBLE about this, I've had them fail within 50 flips and require frequent adjustment to get just right. You can test by giving the EOS switch a little squeeze during a moment when the flipper is not working, can do it through the coin door with the glass on
Eureka! Thanks, @thrillhousejames. When a flipper quit working I opened the coin door and pulled the interlock switch, pushed the non-working flipper button, squeezed the EOS - and it flipped! Tonight I'll lift the playfield and get to tweaking... Community help is spectacular!!!
2 weeks later
Quoted from RyanStl:I haven't had a chance to play TMNT yet, but now I really want to. I love the laser kick, it's saves my a$$ because I'm a bad player. I'll take a left ball save over a spinning playfield disc anyday. Also, at least when selling a BW you don't need to provide a shooter lane pic.
I had a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Pro). It was beautiful and initially fun but ultimately so hard or unpredictable as to not be enjoyable. The two orbit shots off the upper flipper that need to be completed in a certain number and order are hit by complete luck, not skill. At least with my skill set which isn't horrible. I find Baywatch more entertaining. The notoriously hard #the_walking_dead is my favorite game, so I'm not afraid of a challenge.
Quoted from SirMachismo:Someone found a tiny surfboard at a flea market (on a matchbox size car) and put it in the guard tower. Sadly I have been looking for one ever since. Let me find the post.
Edit: Post #62
Etsy has no shortage of small surfboards. These are 4" long:
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:I think staples are correct
I need to better attach mine, as well as the speaker panel/backglass moulding. What is the best stapler and staples to use? I have an air compressor but no staple gun.
1 week later
Very cool topper, which I had the ceiling height for it!
What is it about Baywatch - The more I play it the more I like it. My other machines are #TWD , World Cup Soccer , and #star_trek_le. I have a
Godzilla (Premium) on order. One of my machines needs to go in order to make room and it was going to be Baywatch, but I enjoy it too much! What is it about this game? It's corny, a little clunky, and WAY non-PC these days, but it keeps me entertained and coming back.
4 weeks later
Quoted from MountZion:Fantastic! Thank you so much - this will work great!
Hey, that's me that started that thread! Another Pinsider ended up printing my scan for me and sent me 2 decals. I'll send you the other for $5? That's 1/2 of what I paid.
Quoted from isJ:I keep getting ball saves off the right drain, I think its happening mostly when I am supposed to be shooting at the shark targets, any way to disable this?
Yeah, I've been wondering why ball save sometimes happens during any part of play. A lot. It doesn't seem to be tied to a particular mode so it must be the Shark kick out, I'll pay more attention. Maybe this is something that Chad can tweak in his code? I sent him a message about it.
Quoted from Midway-Man:Chad is aware of this.
Chad says, "If I recall correctly, there is a ball save associated with the Laser Kick on the lower left. That was always there but was slightly increased with my update from like 2 seconds to 3 seconds. "
Quoted from ChadH:Does anyone have a fully working Baywatch they can lend me? I am in Carpentersville, IL
Pinside creeping 
shows that 
Danimal551 , Cjenkin75 ,
gweempose ,
waldo34 , and
RazerX have a Baywatch in and around Chicago. Any of you up for it?! I'm a contributor toward's Chad's time if we can get him a game to work on and make Baywatch even better!
Quoted from RyanStl:Why complain about randam ball saves? I need them, ya'll.
2 weeks later
Quoted from sudsy7:I have mine set on 4, and it is successful about 60-70% of the time.
Same here.
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from sudsy7:Yes you are correct, there are many scenes that were not colored in the Pin2dmd effort. With recent advancements in their editor, though, I believe most of them now could be colored, but it would still take a fairly large effort to complete. For the most part, ColorDMD has all the scenes colored, but it even has a few minor errors in a couple of scenes.
I've put ColorDMDs in several machines (including Baywatch) and am always impressed with their colorizations. I haven't noticed any errors but am not saying they don't exist. I recently tried my first Pin2dmd in a World Cup Soccer and am thoroughly unimpressed. There are very few scenes or frames that don't have major errors and it isn't at all consistent in the colorization. ColorDMD is a commercial product that is professionally colorized and consistently recommendable. Pin2DMD is a product that is similarly capable but is colorized by the community of users with widely varying results. Personally I'll continue to use the ColorDMD and put my money into the people that colorize them so well and bring the animations to life.
Quoted from sudsy7:One of them is the match sequence. It doesn't happen every time but usually when the girls are bouncing at the end of the scene - there are multiple pixels that are white and should be fleshtone or red
I thought those were tan lines!
2 weeks later
Quoted from radial_head:Long shot but if anybody has a coin door for Baywatch or some other Sega Big DMD game, let me know. I'm interested!
What kind of condition are you looking for? I have the original export door from my Baywatch. It's a little rought, I'll PM you a couple pics.
2 months later
I was having some strange problems with mine that were caused by the right flipper switch shorting on on something around the ball launch area when the playfield was down. I had to bend the playfield hangers to
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:I concur with the approval of the seconding
I agree with the concurring with the approval of the seconding
2 weeks later
Quoted from CosmoConstant:Can someone please tell me if I put these wires back in correctly? I can’t find any info anywhere showing where each wire plugs in. Thank you very much.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The answers you seek are found within...
Quoted from CosmoConstant:O.K. so is this right? Red-Brn, Yel-Grn, Red-Blk, Yel-Grn, Red-Org, Yel-Grn?
[quoted image][quoted image]
That appears to be what the chart says. Nice work!
Quoted from CosmoConstant:I redid my wires so that they match yours. Thank you for the photo.[quoted image]
Yup, that's right. Right to left as viewed from the back: orange/red/brown with a yellow on each. Nice work!
1 week later
Quoted from CosmoConstant:So if I buy this do I just use this as is, or do I need to change it to multicolor operation? I’m running firmware 4.01 right now.
[quoted image]
It's super easy, just use the wiring harness they send with it and follow the directions for install and to load the ROM program using a USB stick. I have one of these in my Baywatch and #the_walking_dead.
If you want to spiff up your current flipper bats and make them white again then do a retrobright treatment. Put'em in a ziploc baggy full of hydrogen peroxide with the air squeezed out of it so they are fully immersed and lay it out in the sun for a day. They will come out looking like new. This doesn't work with all white plastics that have yellowed, like pop bumper bodies.
Quoted from CosmoConstant:What is the trick to removing and replacing the bottom two flippers on Baywatch? The less I have to do the better.
[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-collected
2 weeks later
Quoted from jk:Thanks, do you have a picture of your switch? I think the green wire on mine is on the incorrect terminal.
You're welcome. Sorry, no pic. My Baywatch is currently our our pinball collective! https://nwpinballcollective.org/
1 week later
Quoted from pghpinfan:Any solutions to cover up these wear marks near the flipper buttons? The rest of the cabinet is fine so don’t want to replace side art.[quoted image]
You can also get black mylar protectors: https://www.pinballlife.com/pinguard-flipper-button-wear-protector-set.html
Anything you use to cover up those wear spots is going to cover up that seagull.
First thing is to clean off all that hand gunk though! Ew!
Quoted from radial_head:Anybody else having trough upkicker opto issues? I cannot seem to get mine aligned and staying there.
Please further define, "aligned and staying there".
I broke the left outlane plastic while cleaning (towel snagged it). I've tried gluing it back together using another piece of clear plastic as a connector/splint but it keeps breaking off. Does anyone have an extra one that they would be willing to part with?
Quoted from SirMachismo:If you don’t find a replacement you could try Weld On 3. I used it to brace my broken plastic under the shooter lane ramp. It actually melts the plastic to create a bond that is really strong. I have never used it on plastics with art so beware. It does require a steady hand and very little to do the job. Good luck. [quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! That is exactly what I used but the ball literally ripped it apart. If I can repair it again I will use a bigger splint. I have ordered the plastic protectors from Pinball Life and will install them after the repair. Hopefully they will prevent it from happening again.
Quoted from sudsy7:If nothing else, you could glue or "weld" the plastic onto the protector.
That is a great idea. I'll see what is possible when the protectors arrive.
Quoted from RyanStl:Does Pinball Haus have these? I order a much needed plastic piece from him when my dog chewed it up when I had the playfield torn apart for cleaning.
Thanks! I checked Pinball Haus but they don't have this one. I have an Ebay search set, hopefully one will pop up.
On another note, I installed Pinstadiums in Baywatch last night. Ooh baby! The playfield is like being in the sunshine on the beach now!
Gogojohnnyquack, I have the plastic you need at £10 plus £5 royal mail large letter postage. Original Used. In pic just below the Original NOS Slingshot pairs
I'll take it! I'll message you separately about another one I would like to get as well... Thank you!!!
Quoted from mikespins:Can anyone please help me get my hands on a Pin2DMD or ColorDMD for my baywatch? Thanks.
You might hit up Pinsider HighVoltage for a Pin2DMD. I bought one from him for my WCS94. He's a collector here in the PNW and a good guy.
2 months later
Quoted from mannymasy:I don't know, what is it?
See this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-clubmembers-only/page/89#post-6949377
I purchased from him and he has my highest recommendation!
Quoted from mannymasy:But are they used or new?
They are used. He will send you good photos of the actual parts and then you can decide whether to purchase them or not.
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