I'm working on a Baywatch project now as well and currently have the playfield plastics and ramps removed. Have yet to finish up posts and metal bits, then I will start cleaning. Whysnow thanks for the images, those will really come in handy. The game I'm working on is in pretty good condition with only a small amount of wear outside the shark hole from the ball rebounding when it is kicked out. I have plenty of shop out photos so far and if you have any questions I can post them. And I am also doing the DMD Extender on this game as well. And I might put caker137's EnerGI Maestro board in it... either that or Frankenstein (whichever is most obnoxious with LEDs in the GI).

I actually drew and printed these up about a year or so ago. If I find the original files I'll post my version too.

I've already identified two or three broken, but complete, plastics. I will be happy to scan the set in and do a little work in editing to merge the broken pieces.

Believe it or not I actually started by removing the guard tower. That gave me access to the mounting plate underneath and the ramp screws in the back.

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Work is underway on my game. Started cleaning the lower playfield and working my way up counterclockwise into the jet bumper area. Using Novus 1 for 99% of the cleaning and Novus 2 in select areas to help remove ball trails.

Dime.

Update... now installing Titan warm white LEDs in the GI. This batch was quite a mixed bag in terms of color temperature so I put the warm incandescent like ones closer to the flippers where they will be more noticeable. Time for a parts order!

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Behind? Lol, the only thing I do on that list is the coils. So from what you're telling me you have definitely put much more time in yours AND it is farther along. Should be interesting to see how things progress...

I started using a different type of sticker paper, can't remember the brand. I think it's 3M, whatever it is the prints look much better with no color bleeding vs. the ones I used on Papilio vinyl sticker paper. After printing I overlaid a protective clear sheet (Great Value brand I think from Walmart) and cut. An example: Cue Ball Wizard, 14 drop target decals.

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I am headed back today, I'll look and see if I can find it. I already have these printed but thanks anyway.

While we are on the subject of plastics, what are the dimensions of the piece above the drops? You can use a file hosting site like mega.co.nz and it won't shrink the image size of the scan. I have scanned in my set and will post a link when I finalize everything. I was able to piece together (with a little editing) most of my broken stuff but one I do need a scan of. It's the round piece above the lower jet bumper with the rescue buoy on it... does yours happen to be in tact?

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That's correct then.

Or just a spot on photo will work. Can't find the sticker paper, will have to get back to you on that one.

Tell me about it. I just completely remove the bumpers and re-do those separately. If you can include a coin in the photo I can measure it.

That's great, thanks!

I'll have to find it when I get another chance.

Here are the 4 pieces I touched up, before and after on first three.

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Crack on the last one was down between the trees.

Do you have the slingshot plastic dimensions? I think the paper brand was HP or 3M. Can't say for sure because I think I used the last sheet.

Dangit I meant to say drop target not slingshot. Drop target plastic. Looks great!!

The iron man and shark shot lamp condoms should be yellow and blue respectively.

I would recommend these... there are thinner shorter ones out there but I like these silicon ones better, closer to the original factory ones in length and feel. Holy crap that sounds nasty LOL!!

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-1

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6

Whysnow did you happen to come across this piece? I don't think I saw that one during my teardown.

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D'ope, now I feel silly. Thanks. Mine are all perfect so evidently no wild airballs have happened or anything.

Ok I finally have the complete playfield plastic image set minus the shooter and ramp entrance pieces.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/jti3uiv5xrsnkw2/BWplastics.zip

I don't recall removing or even seeing that piece actually.

Finished the lamps this past weekend. Next is all the solenoids, subways, and under the apron. By then I should have my printer fixed so I can start running the plastics and get the project wrapped up and ready for the color display.

We're ordering the parts soon, will do.

I can't believe I didn't used to do jet bumpers. They look and work ten times better fully torn down and cleaned up.

Before:

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After:

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Does anyone know if Doctor Pinball has finished his upgrade of the DMD Extender board to be compatible with the Raspberry Pi A+/B+ models? I haven't gotten a response from him yet.

His site still says the B+ model is not compatible. But I'm not sure if that's up to date.

I've never gotten to Earthquake period!

Ok HERE is the paper we used for the target decals.

Invent It! print & stick project paper gloss finish 09030-0.

http://www.amazon.com/Invent-It-Print-Stick-Project/dp/B00001RMDR

http://www.amazon.com/Invent-Print-Stick-Project-Paper/dp/B007YLQUSE

This is out of production so I would get one or two packs before the above ads run out.

And here are my original target images I drew up back in September 2012. I'm using the images swinks provided as they have the correct aspect ratio and a higher resolution.

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Printed the plastics on photo paper and the decals I printed in normal mode. The yellow turned out a little light but not a big deal. I was afraid to use photo paper mode on these as last time I did it bled the colors.

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I also use Scotch self-seal laminating pouches for extra protection on the decals.

Ugh, grease on drop targets? WHY? This stuff got all over the target housing as well as the switches. Two were broken so I just swapped them all out with new. Saves a lot of nasty cleaning.

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Dang, my ramps have quite a bit of dirt on them after a good scrubbing with soap and water. Novus time!

I'm finally getting my playfield back together today. Will post pictures of it finished this evening!

Holy crap 4 hours straight and I still didn't get a chance to play. But it's DONE, minus a couple small tweaks here and there and the color display. And dang, it looks freaking awesome!!

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There's a light right above the game that gives me glare issues when I go to take photos. But sure.

Reflects off the playfield.

Lit photos. Man you guys are picky!

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And don't forget the elusive Anus Bonus!

Yeah, I don't mind putting together some photos and instructions for you guys. It won't be until next week.

Yep just received the Extender yesterday. Just a matter of both of us finding time.

Ask him for an original Extender board that has the old GPIO port. I think he is still testing the new model with updated port. Keep in mind the original board will not work with the new Raspberry Pi plus models. Someone is selling a batch of original Model A's that will work until the new Extender board is finished.

ebay.com link: itm

Here's my write-up. Hope it helps!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-addams-family-poor-mans-color-dmd/page/10#post-2237459

I printed out Aurium's Baywatch cards. image-686.jpgimage.jpg

Check out the results I got using DMD Extender!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-addams-family-poor-mans-color-dmd/page/10#post-2283202

$250 total. Oh snap Hilton, I actually BEAT you?! If weather is good we will set it on location this afternoon.

Well to be fair they're actually Chrisbee's, I just tweaked them a little. I seem to be the only one using it though.

If you missed the boat on the drops plastic this guy has two for sale.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/18066

Haven't seen this happen before...

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I read your posts in David Bowie's voice.

I fixed a friend's Frankenstein with an X-Pin power supply. The X-Pin board puts out an excellent 5.15v while under load with the game on at CN4 (CN6 per the original board connector name). By punching down the reproduction factory harness to CN4 I am now getting 5.13v at the display driver board. Problem drop kicked, sucker punched, and solved.

The DMD controller board in my game was being so problematic it was causing the sound board to reset due to the draw on the 5v rail. So I wired it up to an arcade machine power supply and installed a 2.5A inline fuse between the power supply and controller board. With the board on its own power supply, the 5V level in the game showed much better and the sound board stopped resetting.

As for the display controller, it was still only showing 4.83v at the board itself. I had to increase the arcade power supply up to 5.2v, which is what we normally use in arcade machines with similar issues. After making this adjustment, the controller now shows 4.95v.

I played a few games with no display resets and no sound issues. But the 2.5A fuse runs warm to the touch, and the various PAL chips on the controller board are nearly hot to the touch. Not sure how long this will work until my original 24 year old board dies completely, but it must be pulling 2A of current (10W).

The experience of mine and others is irrefutable evidence that as these DMD controller boards age, they consume more and more power. I don’t know if the PAL chips are slowly shorting themselves out or what.

Luis with PinballSP has had one available for some time. Trying to get the last bit of use out of my original board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/videosp-192x64-new-dmd-controller-board-for-sega-large-screens

http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads

Also, for some reason these Sega system 3b games love to eat insert lamps. The game I service on location had all but 3 or 4 lamps burned out. Here's the body count. The two partially blackened bulbs in the lower right are higher quality GE ones. The rest are the inferior Taiwanese lamps.
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The business can't afford LEDs and LED OCD boards for all 13 of our games. Otherwise I would love to. I get incandescent bulbs for free basically since nobody wants them.

It should work with any existing display solution. It works with plasma and his DMDMK66 LED display.

Because Chad changed the power adjustment code, the 8 bit integer for the gate rolls over to an extremely low number.

Sorry, I meant to say Chad fixed the gate power when set to high in version 4.01 of his code.

What did you do to solve the problem? Use a custom value of 255 or less for the gate coil?

Baywatch uses electronic flippers and preset power timings.

The EOS switch on Data East and Sega games tells the flipper PCB the position of the flipper. If the flipper gets knocked down from a fast moving ball, the PCB can sense this and send another high power pulse to bring the flipper back up.

For the weak flipper issue I would suggest replacing the coil sleeve, cleaning the plunger, and ensuring the bushing isn't restricting rotation of the flipper bat shaft.

The trap door should drop after completing the flag lock targets once the ball passes the gate.