This is a confessional post in the Baywatch thread. I received my Cliffy set yesterday, which not having was preventing me from putting my game back together after a couple months. I can't get it all together because I don't have the 3 bank drop plastic from Pinball Haus yet, which was to replace the one my dog chewed (not his fault). However, I can get it mostly together, but I'm just unmotivated because I'm a little worried it has been so long since I tore it down I won't be able to get it back together. This is my only game, so I really need to get it back up again.

I did get the skill shot kick back coil screwed in, which had zero screws in it (how in the hell did that happen?). I hope it is lined up well as I used the three existing holes that were not blown out. I thought I was going to have to use the toothpick/wood glue trick in the holes, but they were fine.

I thought about it, but I really don't want to make physical alterations. I'll just chalk it up to a quirk of the machine and call it a day. Other than that, it plays excellent, and the color display puts it over the top.

Wish I would have read this post earlier. I installed my Cliffy's today and it took 2 hrs with the playfield already apart. I had to snip the earthqauke vuk protecter as mentioned in ThatOneDude's post. I tried notching, but ultimately had to completely clip a gap to clear the playfield post. It's fine, but I did not expect to modify Cliffy's fine product.

Are you sure you have the incline set correctly on your machine? The ball should rarely, if ever, roll up into that hole, unless it's "floating" up there. If it does, however, it's programmed to act like a regular ball save, and immediately kick the ball back up to the outhole and a ball should autoplunge back into play (this all should happen within less than a second). And you will also hear the "Baywatch will be right back" callout. That is what happens on my machine every time. So you either have a bad switch or you have a setting option (that I'm not aware of) different than mine that is causing yours to fail.

I usually set my playfield to between 6 and 7 degrees. I'll have to recheck. What I was seeing was a ball rolling fast enough from the right outlane to bounce up into that hole.
Now, maybe I'm mistaken and the switch isn't working. I'll do a switch edge level test today and see what it's doing. If not that, then I'll look for a setting.

If you can't figure it out, another thing you could do is strategically place 1 or 2 small self-adhesive "cabinet bumpers" (you can get them at any hardware store) either somewhere below the right outlane to slow down the ball (think speed bumps) or just in front of the subway hole to block the ball from entry.

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Well guys new to the club,fixing some things(all small coils burned)
I’m looking for a nice translite
Thanks

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Welcome to the club.

It looks great with the right lighting!

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I'm guessing robertg130 will also have to change out GI lighting and will find out how fun that is. I still need to put mine back together.

Yeah change all the rings and install the cliffys while you are at it. I didn't have everything I needed so I will be tearing it all apart again next week! Lol

If you do get Cliffy's order give Cliff about a month before you need them (one man operation that is in demand) and ask if he has the modified Earthquake VUK version. See some of my recent posts for reasons.

OK, so I fiddled with the vuk switch and now it's registering and gives me the ball back. Down to one problem. The ball will occasionally get stuck on the top switch on the right ramp. I think it's fleeced a bit, and I need to get it registering without binding.

For those who have replaced their shark hole switch, what tool did you use to remove it from the bracket? Mine is attached with a pair of micro hex screws and I can’t find a micro hex driver.

I don't know where to find a driver that small . I had to use needle-nose pliers to take them out, and replace them with bally style screws.

My wife had a mini screwdriver kit that had one. I'll get the details when I get home

Ah I never did get that info. My apologies. I'm pretty sure it's this set(or a clone of it): https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-41800-Precision-Screwdriver-16-Piece/dp/B01J5026/ref=sr_1_15_sspa

On other news, I fixed the VUK problem. I fiddled with the switch and got it working. Now it properly detects a ball and kicks it over and gives you a ball save.

Thanks! Just ordered it.

Hello all...I'm not an owner but in need of your knowledge.
Can anyone provide me with the list of required rubbers I'd greatly appreciate it...hate ordering and not getting all or right ones.

Titan Pinball’s Ring Database has complete kits in several color combinations.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/480

Completely agree on the titan lists.

Also replace all gi and pop bumper lighting (stapled to bottom of playfield, should be replaced from above) and install cliffys while doing this.

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Just picked up a Baywatch machine and I'm loving it. Plays well, but my wireforms have some corrosion. Does anyone have a recommendation as to how to clean it off? The wireforms look coated, so I'm not sure how to go about removing the corrosion without harming the finish

I used Never Dull on mine. But it will take of any colering. Mine used to be more yellow gold, now they are more whiet chrome looking. It took of most corrosion. When you want to go all the way you could use a Dremel and just polish.

I did a light buffing with some steel wool. Didn't seem to take much of the finish off, if any.

Hi guys im looking for a baywatch translite
Thanks

Ive seen them in a couple different pinball websites and even Ebay, they aren't expensive if you search around

I hate to write this type of post, but what should be a happy post that I finally got my machine back together after a playfield tear down waiting on some parts, and I'm back up and running. However, everything has gone to shit. First sign of trouble is I plug the pin in after about a month and DMD doesn't display and the song isn't playing. All other sounds work. This is after just being unplugged. I missed with the connectors and got the DMD back on.

I get everthing back together and start to play and I notice the G and R switches aren't registering. I believe everything else is fine. Then I remembered I didn't plug those two ramp connectors in. I turned the pin off and plugged them in. The G comes back back, but now the subway vuk fires about 5 times between every ball, the shark flipper switch, right sling shot, and R switch doesn't work (G is now working). I mess around and I'm sure the connectors are back as they should. I also notice all high scores are gone (put in new batteries a few months ago).

Now I leave the pin on for a couple hours and DMD is out, plus the shooter plunge and left kick are noticably weak. What the hell is going on?

I looked at the manual and don't really know what I'm looking at, but I see all of the switches that aren't working are related. Where should I check first?

I had not problems before and now all of a sudden it seems like the pin is dying. It looks awesome now all cleaned, with GI LEDS, and new Titan rubbers, but now I wish I would have just let it be.

Oof. Sorry to hear that. I've got a Flintstones on route that just started having trouble. I think that the chips on the mpu all need to be reseated.

So, start simple. Print out the table showing the switch matrix and mark down what is not working. Verify the wiring on that segment. Look for loose or broken leads inside the molex connectors. If you have a switch tester, like the siegecraft one, you can see quickly if it's the board or the wiring, as well.
Given the time line, I'm guessing this is mostly connector issues. Try buffing the headers with some steel wool before reinserting.
And upload a picture of the marked up switch matrix so we can see it and make suggestions.

After two long weeks, I finally got my parts order and the special mini-hex drivers I ordered and was able to replace my faulty shark switch. It turns out the middle node was loose and wasn't making contact. It's so great to be able to play a game and not wait for a ball search to kick the ball back into play, to finally win Shark Cove mode and to get decent Earthquake jackpots.

Along with a new switch I also ordered that "fork" switch and can report that it doesn't work in the shark hole.

Thanks for your support, as you have been having fits with your machine. One of the male to male molex connector arms broke and thought it would still hold together fine. Now I believe I should replace all male to male connectors for the switches I had to disconnect to take the ramps off. I'll scan the switch matrix at work tomorrow to show what is out. Where do you buy your connectors and the switch tester you mentioned? Funny, I was hoping it would just be fuse

Connectors = Great Plains Electronics - GPE

Mine is actually working great right now.

So, there is this one: https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=14&controller=product&id_lang=1

But you'll have to make up your own harness. You might ping the guy there and verify that it should work.

Barring that, you can buy the grandaddy of all switch matrix testers here: https://www.pinitech.com/products/64switch_tester.php
That one is really pricey, unless you get the DIY kits for the board and harness.

I have one of the siegecraft models. Shouldn't be hard to adapt it to Sega.

Watch out for those "NOS" online. I bought one from Pinballdecals. It said it was NOS but seems like a repro to me, the skin seems really red compare to the original one. Or original reds were really faded .

Thanks for the suggestion of Never Dull/steel wool, started making the wireforms all nice and clean and hope to finish it up soon. I am running into a weird issue though if anyone has some insight.

When I finish Shark Cove mode, the sound will freeze and stay locked until I power cycle the game. You can continue playing the game normally, but there will be no callouts or music. I have not noticed it happen in any other mode as of yet. I have a new set of ribbon cables on the way, but in my head it seems like the ROM may be corrupted since it seems to happen only on one mode. Anyone else run into this?

No, haven’t had it happen. but do you have chad code or original?

If you need a rom I would suggest Matt’s basement, did right by me nicely.

Happens on Chad code and stock 3.0 code.

So the sound rom is separate if I remember right? Might need that?

A little update and I have to give a shoutout to this website. For someone new diagnosing pinball problems, espcially a DE/early Sega this is something to read.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

I dissambled necessary ramps and wire forms again so I could remove the one ramp that I think has the micro switch that is causing my problems (right ramp/Iron Man exit). I dind't like doing this after the effort getting it back together, but it had to be done. Without that switch plugged in and another one (life guard exit) that had to be removed that didn't give me problems everything back on that problem switches matrix is working again. In fact, the attraction music is now working. I have no idea the correlation between music and the switches.

I followed a guide linked above on how to test a bad switch with a MM and the switch in question tests fine. I don't understand why when that ramp is plugged in it causes problems. Tomorrow, I'm going to plug both the switch I'm having problems with and the one I think is fine with playfield up and ramps in cabinet. I think this can help me figure out if it is a connector issue or something I don't know.

I'm feeling better about this because before with a lot not working all of a sudden I just got overwhelmed. Also, after recent putting the ramps/wire forms back together I'm able to remove and put things back easier.

I'll check back in after my other test. The only problem I can see is somehow the back right switch gets shorted when installed. I don't see how though, but it does rest on a metal tab or maybe the Z-connectors are holding things together (but why would the machine act like a short?). I was talking to Northendude about Z-connnectors and he thought that is a really low failure point.

Now fun post. Thank goodness Pinball Haus had the plastic my dog chewed up that unproperly stored about his kennel. While ordering I got their stand up target decal kit and coin door sticker. I prefer the sega w/ sonic sticker, but it's hard to find, so while ordering the plastic I just went with Pinball Haus' version. There is one circle Baywatch sticker similar to the two on the laser kick stand ups, but larger that my son and I can't figure out where it goes. I'm very happy the decal kit. (sorry for glass-on pics, but I didn't want to take it back off and just want to relax now for the night.)

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Hey folks. My upper left flipper is weak, can’t make a ramp shot with it at all.

Any ideas what could be a culprit of that weakness? A couple years ago I replaced the coil, sleeve, and it looks right, but man, this thing isn’t functionable

TIA

Check the fuses in the flipper board

Really? Hey
Like a loose fuse holder or a bad connection there?

Look for an actual blown fuse. The boards are under the playfield in the cabinet. The flippers will work with one fuse blown but you won't get full power.

Ok, I’ll check that out. My other two flipppers work just fine though.

I'm so happy to report:

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We are back in business. I plugged in the switch on the Tourist Season ramp that I suspected to be the problem under the playfield just to check to trouble shoot and everything was fine. All switches now working and even the music. I reinstalled the top parts and found I didn't have the Tourist Season ramp in right, which somehow must have caused a short. Here is how it's supposed to be.

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The switch is on the left of the plastic form where that cirlce piece is. When I originally assembled I could not puzzle that back together and the switch ended up resting on the post that's on the tab attached to the back. I thought it would be like the plastic that surrounds the EQ VUK that has a post that doesn't screw into anything. Turns out the switch goes below the back tab, the circle plastic pice screws into the post, and the cardboard piece prevents shorts.

A lesson to people new to playfield teardowns of this level. Take lots of pictures because your memory will fail, have all parts on hand so you can put together and reassemble the same day, and if you can't put together right away keep your parts away from a puppy. The verterans here are like no shit.

This had me totally stressed for a long time and I can't believe a simple little thing caused such a causcad of fails. Not that I would ask for this to happen again, but I feel a lot more experianced now doing a playfield top tear down and having to diagnose a problem.

Assuming it still "holds" while the left flipper is pressed (to eliminate a low power hold issue), as previously suggested above, check the fuses first, with a meter, then the holders as they can and do loosen. After that, I'd check for a cracked bushing (like mine had when I first got it), and make sure the pawl is tight and the flipper is lined up correctly.

If that all checks out, check the "high power" section of the flipper board for a loose or faulty transistor. The copy I have was completely missing the transistor and heat sink as it had been knocked clean off the flipper board from what I can only guess was the playfield falling into the cabinet and chopping it off. The main wiring harness runs through that area as well, and could easily snag components on the flipper board when ever the playfield is lifted/put back in place. If you don't have one, I'd suggest adding some wiring loom to keep the harness tidy, and to prevent any future snags from it.

Good luck sir!

It's a bonus sticker for your key chain.

Wrong thread

Thanks. My son was making it his mission to find where it goes. That's funny. I got the orange floaty key chain from Amazon. I might be able to wrap it around that.

Love your product btw, I'm very happy with the plastic and decals.

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New member as of last weekend.

14 hours driving on the same day.
Was it worth it, yes
Needs a good cleaning, works great though.

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