(Topic ID: 33977)

Baywatch Club....Members Only!

By dnhayden

11 years ago


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  • 5,117 posts
  • 324 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by HiRez00
  • Topic is favorited by 98 Pinsiders

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There are 5,117 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 103.
#3551 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Baywatch Blue sold here:
http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm
I haven't used it myself, so cannot tell you how well it matches.

Yeah, tough to trust a paint match after 25 years with possible fading occurring.

Best (if touch ups) is to just mix and match?

#3552 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Baywatch Blue sold here:
http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm
I haven't used it myself, so cannot tell you how well it matches.

Thanks, I saw that, but $10 an ounce plus shipping (I'm guessing), ouch.

Reminds me of the tiny jar of Big Green Egg touch up paint I bought earlier this year. It wasn't even the right shade of green.

#3553 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

Thanks, I saw that, but $10 an ounce plus shipping (I'm guessing), ouch.

You might want to contact pinsider VladM. I think he took part of his cabinet to Sherwin-Williams and had it color matched, and said it was perfect. Maybe he has some left over? If you take his forumula to SW, you'll probably end up spending $30, but you'll get a quart. The only other thing you can do is buy the little acrylic hobby paints and dick around trying to match the color. You'll probably end up spending $20 doing that and not be satisfied with the match anyway. Blue hues can be difficult to match.

#3554 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

You might want to contact pinsider VladM. I think he took part of his cabinet to Sherwin-Williams and had it color matched, and said it was perfect. Maybe he has some left over? If you take his forumula to SW, you'll probably end up spending $30, but you'll get a quart. The only other thing you can do is buy the little acrylic hobby paints and dick around trying to match the color. You'll probably end up spending $20 doing that and not be satisfied with the match anyway. Blue hues can be difficult to match.

I saw VladM 's post when I was searching about a week ago and PM'd him. I haven't heard back yet. No rush though. My backup was to go to Lowe's and get a but load of blue paper paint samples and see if one happens to be very close. I'm definately not mixing my self with hobby paint because I'll never get a match. 1oz from pinball universe just wouldn't go that far. The cabinet really doesn't need any touchup except maybe on the corners up front. However, the back box, like most has dings in the blue. Luckily, the Baywatch lettering is pretty darn good, so just the blue is needed.

Soldering iron came in today, so now my lose switch diode is fixed. Glad I put in an order to Titan last night because one of the rubbers on a back standup post broke apart today.

#3555 3 years ago

I just picked up a Baywatch! I'm having an issue with the multiball. When I get the 3rd lock the multiball starts but I'm not getting that last ball that did the 3rd lock. Once I get down to only one ball on the playfield the multiball is still going on. If I drain it then it will do a ball search and then shoot out a ball to continue play. Could anyone help me with this issue? Big thanks in advance!

#3556 3 years ago
Quoted from fsumassey:

I just picked up a Baywatch! I'm having an issue with the multiball. When I get the 3rd lock the multiball starts but I'm not getting that last ball that did the 3rd lock. Once I get down to only one ball on the playfield the multiball is still going on. If I drain it then it will do a ball search and then shoot out a ball to continue play. Could anyone help me with this issue? Big thanks in advance!

Probably an issue with the trough switches. More than likely the game has not registered that 4 of the 5 balls (then all 5 when you lose the last one in play) have drained. Usually a prime suspect on DE and Sega games.

#3557 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Probably an issue with the trough switches. More than likely the game has not registered that 4 of the 5 balls (then all 5 when you lose the last one in play) have drained. Usually a prime suspect on DE and Sega games.

I'll check that out for sure. Thanks for the advice. It's just strange that it recognizes all the balls when I start a game. If there was a trough switch issue wouldn't it be trying to find a ball continuously?

#3558 3 years ago
Quoted from fsumassey:

I'll check that out for sure. Thanks for the advice. It's just strange that it recognizes all the balls when I start a game. If there was a trough switch issue wouldn't it be trying to find a ball continuously?

It may try one time when turned on. If it couldn’t find it then it will play with the number of balls it has. It’s a feature of being on location. Operators and facility owners aren’t always there to retrieve a stuck ball. So the machine would check on startup and go with what it has.

I agree with checking your trough switches and if all are good then check the subway connections. If it’s registering multiball then the subway switch sounds like it’s working.

#3559 3 years ago
Quoted from fsumassey:

I'll check that out for sure. Thanks for the advice. It's just strange that it recognizes all the balls when I start a game. If there was a trough switch issue wouldn't it be trying to find a ball continuously?

I have had the same issue on my Jurassic Park. Take a look at the trough and how the balls sit and if they are depressing the switches all the way. You can also take them out and put the game in test and roll one in at and time and make sure they all register. It may not be a true "issue" with the switch but that trough design is notorious for balls getting hung up on the trough itself or the switches and not rolling all the way down.

#3560 3 years ago

DE ball trough issues - Useful video from Chad

#3561 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

I saw VladM 's post when I was searching about a week ago and PM'd him.

The funny thing is he had sent me a photo of the paint can that had the mix codes on it about 7 or 8 months ago - I saved the photo on my phone -and deleted the email. I was going to get a quart next time I happened to be at a SW paint center, but as usual I procrastinated and about 2 months later, my phone punked out on me and I lost all the data on it. That's what I get for procrastinating! I was hoping someone else in this topic had contacted him and could post it.

#3562 3 years ago

I appreciate all the help everyone! I'll start investigating and report back. Thanks!

#3563 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

The funny thing is he had sent me a photo of the paint can that had the mix codes on it about 7 or 8 months ago - I saved the photo on my phone -and deleted the email. I was going to get a quart next time I happened to be at a SW paint center, but as usual I procrastinated and about 2 months later, my phone punked out on me and I lost all the data on it. That's what I get for procrastinating! I was hoping someone else in this topic had contacted him and could post it.

Bummer. Murphy's law sucks.

#3564 3 years ago

I would note that on my Baywatch, there is no physical switch like that video shows. It's an opto.

#3565 3 years ago

Sorry, no before/after pics, but i can't believe I haven't seen it talked about on this thread yet. The glare from the DMD was worse than other games mainly because it's larger. I really couldn't see the back of the game hardly at all. Tonight I installed Comet's ant-glare screen and I have pretty much no glare at all. I'm very happy with this product.

I put in all the easyGI LEDs, controlled lamps, and flashers tonight as well, but my count was off, so another order to Comet made tonight. I'm not going to attempt most of the GI yet, but maybe in a few months if other bulbs start to go out. I'm not excited about it.

I cannot wait for Chad's code to come in.

#3566 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

Sorry, no before/after pics, but i can't believe I haven't seen it talked about on this thread yet. The glare from the DMD was worse than other games mainly because it's larger. I really couldn't see the back of the game hardly at all. Tonight I installed Comet's ant-glare screen and I have pretty much no glare at all. I'm very happy with this product.
I put in all the easyGI LEDs, controlled lamps, and flashers tonight as well, but my count was off, so another order to Comet made tonight. I'm not going to attempt most of the GI yet, but maybe in a few months if other bulbs start to go out. I'm not excited about it.
I cannot wait for Chad's code to come in.

Where do you install the anti glare screen? Behind the speaker panel?

#3567 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Where do you install the anti glare screen? Behind the speaker panel?

It goes right on the DMD. I thought about putting it behind the speaker panel because I thought maybe it would be easier. It wasn't and didn't fit in the hole, so I did what they recommend and put on the DMD face. It will be easy to transfer if I switch to ColorDMD.

#3568 3 years ago

I bought the "bent plastic" from PBL i believe? works good.

#3569 3 years ago

IMG_20200917_180403278 (resized).jpgIMG_20200917_180403278 (resized).jpg

I got the 4.01 roms today. I opened the box and holy cow, it was like finding a needle in a haystack. Fortunetly, I didn't make too big of a mess on the floor.

I put a gray mini flipper rubber on the shark, which looks a lot better than black. I also went with light blue sling shots. I knew shopping this is a bitch, but didn't expect so much trouble just to change the left slingshot rubber. sheesh. The purple flipper bands on the bottom flippers were already on the game when I bought. They are in great shape, so no reason to replace. My wife likes the purple, it says 90's.

When replacing bulbs I noticed the siren lights on the playfield boat are actually inserts. My bulbs were burned out and now there's some light in the middle of the playfield now.

IMG_20200917_212233935 (resized).jpgIMG_20200917_212233935 (resized).jpg

#3570 3 years ago

Made a coin door decal for my machine.

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#3571 3 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Made a coin door decal for my machine.[quoted image]

Looks great. Reminds me I need to look for the original Sega Sonic one.

#3572 3 years ago

I like that better than the original!

#3573 3 years ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

I like that better than the original!

I agree, looks great, but I like it to look how it came from the factory. I'm not an alternate translite guy, not even for DW.

#3574 3 years ago

Tonight, I finished changing out all the bulbs to LED except thost stapled down ones. My first order to Comet wasn't correct.

The left pop bumber looks great with a working bulb. The other two where out as well. The back right one is about impossible to get to without major playfield removal. However, the bottom pop bumper with the half moon was a different story. I took the advice of someone on this thread that put a color changing LED on that bumper, which I love. To get the old one out I tried my wife and two kids. Small hands are needed, but they couldn't get it out. I finally tried a cheap pair of wire strippers and was able to pop the bulb loose. Then using a bamboo skewer I was able to get the new LED mostly there. Then my son was able to get his finger on the top and push down. Success.

I also hit the easy rubber areas with a fresh order from Titan because I didn't order the right thing the first time. Once again another screw up. I didn't realize the 3/8" rings are OD, so another order for five rings that cost as much as the shipping was placed tonight. Oh, well.

I also learned the shooter that sends the ball behind the gate on the right side to the left side isn't screwed in at all. It's still able to send the ball back around the orbit though. For now, I'm just going to forget I learned that.

One last thing. I got all of the blue paint samples from Lowe's. Nothing matches. I guess it makes sense because nobody would paint their walls this shade of blue.

Edit: just ordered the Baywatch Blue from pinball universe. My plan is to use it to color match the 1 oz they send you. It's $15 for 1 oz shipped.

#3575 3 years ago

Many (not all) Lowes and Home Depots have a color match machine. If you can take a paint chip bigger than a dime to them they will match it pretty darn well. If they are in a good mood that day you can even get them to do it on of those 4-8 OZ sample sizes for under $10. You can cut out a chip either from under a leg or from the back of the game if the color in those areas is still a match for the sides.

I'm interested to see how well the sample you ordered matches, every machine fades differently after 30 years of varying light exposure.

#3576 3 years ago

I have a weird problem. The balls in the trough get wedged forward sometimes, and don't quite hit all the switches. When this happens, and you drain a ball, you have to wait for a ball search, which will cause the balls to reseat. I attached some pics to show what I mean.
Any ideas on fixing this?

26360 (resized).jpeg26360 (resized).jpeg26365 (resized).jpeg26365 (resized).jpeg
#3577 3 years ago

Hmmm, place a small, clear bumper at the end of the trough (like the kind that you use to prevent cabinet doors from banging into the frames? maybe a thin wood shim cut the exact thickness of the trough and slid straight up from underneath to act as a spacer?

Also, could the balls be magnetized?

I still occasionally have a phantom failure of having a ball kicked from the trough to the "shooter lane staging area" (or whatever we are calling it, haha), even after replacing/rebuilding the optos and grommets and re-aligning them. Usually giving the game a gentle love tap on the right side of the cabinet while the trough is cycling will get it to kick a ball, but at times (almost always going into ball 3 of a monster game, of course), the game won't ever get a ball into the staging area, the game autoplunges a phantom ball that isn't in the trough, then ends the ball. Happens once every couple of weeks, and I can't pinpoint it.

I'll have to look at my trough better this week, and see if I can't get it squared away...

#3578 3 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I have a weird problem. The balls in the trough get wedged forward sometimes, and don't quite hit all the switches. When this happens, and you drain a ball, you have to wait for a ball search, which will cause the balls to reseat. I attached some pics to show what I mean.
Any ideas on fixing this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Take it apart, clean it, wax it, maybe the balls will slide in and stay seated properly

#3579 3 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I have a weird problem. The balls in the trough get wedged forward sometimes, and don't quite hit all the switches. When this happens, and you drain a ball, you have to wait for a ball search, which will cause the balls to reseat. I attached some pics to show what I mean.
Any ideas on fixing this?
[quoted image][quoted image]

In the first pic it looks like you are missing a ball...is the 5th ball in the staging area to be kicked to the shooter lane? Or just a weird angle on the pic?

Quoted from Grandnational007:

Hmmm, place a small, clear bumper at the end of the trough (like the kind that you use to prevent cabinet doors from banging into the frames? maybe a thin wood shim cut the exact thickness of the trough and slid straight up from underneath to act as a spacer?
Also, could the balls be magnetized?
I still occasionally have a phantom failure of having a ball kicked from the trough to the "shooter lane staging area" (or whatever we are calling it, haha), even after replacing/rebuilding the optos and grommets and re-aligning them. Usually giving the game a gentle love tap on the right side of the cabinet while the trough is cycling will get it to kick a ball, but at times (almost always going into ball 3 of a monster game, of course), the game won't ever get a ball into the staging area, the game autoplunges a phantom ball that isn't in the trough, then ends the ball. Happens once every couple of weeks, and I can't pinpoint it.
I'll have to look at my trough better this week, and see if I can't get it squared away...

This has happened to me before. The game thinks there is a ball in the staging area where the opto is. When you replaced the optos did you reflow the solder on the header pins at the connector on the opto board (both sides)?

#3580 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

In the first pic it looks like you are missing a ball...is the 5th ball in the staging area to be kicked to the shooter lane? Or just a weird angle on the pic?

This has happened to me before. The game thinks there is a ball in the staging area where the opto is. When you replaced the optos did you reflow the solder on the header pins at the connector on the opto board (both sides)?

Nope, but I will! Thanks.

#3581 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

In the first pic it looks like you are missing a ball...is the 5th ball in the staging area to be kicked to the shooter lane? Or just a weird angle on the pic?

No, it is just wedged up at the front. That's the problem. The action of the ball search jogs them all back into place.

Quoted from Grandnational007:

Hmmm, place a small, clear bumper at the end of the trough (like the kind that you use to prevent cabinet doors from banging into the frames? maybe a thin wood shim cut the exact thickness of the trough and slid straight up from underneath to act as a spacer?

Also, could the balls be magnetized?

Good idea. I'll replace the balls. I would think that a shim would make the problem worse, since there would be less room for the balls.

Quoted from northerndude:

Take it apart, clean it, wax it, maybe the balls will slide in and stay seated properly

I'll try this, too. Maybe I just need to polish the heck out of the trough while I'm at it.

#3582 3 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

No, it is just wedged up at the front. That's the problem. The action of the ball search jogs them all back into place.

Good idea. I'll replace the balls. I would think that a shim would make the problem worse, since there would be less room for the balls.

I'll try this, too. Maybe I just need to polish the heck out of the trough while I'm at it.

Is there something that should be stopping the balls that isn't? The balls definitely should not be off the switches by that far. I'd check the end of the trough near the shooter and make sure nothing is stuck open, etc.

#3583 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Is there something that should be stopping the balls that isn't? The balls definitely should not be off the switches by that far. I'd check the end of the trough near the shooter and make sure nothing is stuck open, etc.

I'll check it out. It's in an arcade right now, so I can't touch it. The owner mentioned the problem, and his tech took the pics while trying to diagnose it.

1 week later
#3584 3 years ago

Recently I was considering trading for a Sega Goldeneye pin. I always thought it looked like another fun Sega game, and it does, but then I heard the sound effects. Just like Data East, Sega recycled sounds in several games. I never noticed this in my other Segas I've owned - Frankenstein; Maverick; SST; Space Jam.

But damn, there's no way I can own a Goldeneye after having a Baywatch for 7 years. Take a listen to the sound effects, it's so off-putting to my ears hearing Baywatch sounds in Goldeneye. I also caught at least one Maverick sound effect also. No way I can own a Golden Eye now - or at least while I still have Baywatch, which will be a long time.

#3585 3 years ago

Never looked or heard the Golden Eye before. I have some questions on this game. Where is the dino coming from in the first few seconds the game starts? Was there a dino in Golden Eye? Where are the call outs? Not even lock ball or Jackpot, I only hear wodka martini out of nowhere. The sound are indeed a reuse of other machines. Would love to hear this with a good sounding pinsound track.

#3586 3 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Where is the dino coming from in the first few seconds the game starts?

That dino looks to be the extra ball animation from The Lost World Jurassic Park without the people it's chasing.

#3587 3 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

I'll check it out. It's in an arcade right now, so I can't touch it. The owner mentioned the problem, and his tech took the pics while trying to diagnose it.

I finally got sick of dealing with my phantom ball eject/trough issues, so today was the day I decided to stop letting the Hoff down, haha.

I looked at the trough, and realized I had the same issue as you. Balls stacked towards the shooter lane. I messed with the kickout arm a little, and realized that’s what controls the amount of play of ball tension in the trough. I figured maybe the rubber bumper or mounting screws for the trough could be adjusted, but no dice. It dawned on me to ever so slightly bend the coil bracket back a “smidge”, and voila!, the balls moved back over the appropriate position within the trough to sit on their corresponding switches correctly. I guess that bracket must have bent ever so slightly forward over the years of getting repeatedly beaten by the balls and the force of the ball kickout arm. This explains me having to give the game a "love tap" on the right side of the cabinet every so often; it was re-settling the balls back over their appropriate switches in the trough.

Hopefully it’s as simple of a fix as this, one that has been embarrassingly baffling me for months, haha.

I’ve played roughly a dozen test games with nary a hiccup.

Good luck sir!

(Please don’t put much into the order of the attached pictures; I’ve re-uploaded multiple times in the correct order, and they still post out of order. I’m posting mobily, so I’m guessing that’s what it is...)

18984935-319E-4736-B537-D12449B933FF (resized).jpeg18984935-319E-4736-B537-D12449B933FF (resized).jpeg30786494-B5A1-4B08-973D-94AE2E617BE3 (resized).jpeg30786494-B5A1-4B08-973D-94AE2E617BE3 (resized).jpeg5D307B92-7677-4F50-BA32-106462B35851 (resized).jpeg5D307B92-7677-4F50-BA32-106462B35851 (resized).jpeg80CE99FF-2952-4EB6-9FDC-5E91D95178E2 (resized).jpeg80CE99FF-2952-4EB6-9FDC-5E91D95178E2 (resized).jpeg

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#3588 3 years ago

I got the Pinball Universe Baywatch blue and was shipped B/W Rocky B blue. They claim it's the same. The wet paint in the jar looked like a match, but it dried darker; not much, but noticble. I'm going to drop some pure white in and mix to get to match. I don't really buy that my game is faded is the cause of mismatch. The blue is uniform all over the game, and no way all that had same UV exposure all around.

BTW, 1 oz is plenty of paint for touchups.

#3589 3 years ago

I don't buy the fade theory on this game either. You can't tell any difference by looking at the paint under the legs on mine. The red will fade for sure (as evidenced by many examples of this machine), but the blue seems pretty resistant.

#3590 3 years ago

My shark hole switch has a loose node, making it really flaky and I think the best option is to replace it. PinballLife doesn't carry them and they're out of stock at Marco. Has anyone had luck with either of these two alternatives? From the photos they look like the arms might be too short.

Screen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.31.52 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.31.52 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.32.01 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.32.01 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.32.15 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-10-06 at 10.32.15 AM (resized).png

#3591 3 years ago

I was able to carefully pull the loop shaped actuator arm off of my old switch, and swap it onto a new micro switch I had laying around. It seems to be the most reliable alternative to the new "U/fork" shaped arms for this particular application. The angle or geometry the switch is mounted down in that hole is very finicky for whatever reason about how the ball interacts with the actuator arm and triggers the switch. Good luck!

#3592 3 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

I was able to carefully pull the loop shaped actuator arm off of my old switch, and swap it onto a new micro switch I had laying around. It seems to be the most reliable alternative to the new "U/fork" shaped arms for this particular application. The angle or geometry the switch is mounted down in that hole is very finicky for whatever reason about how the ball interacts with the actuator arm and triggers the switch. Good luck!

How did you attach the arm to a new switch? Solder?

#3593 3 years ago

I used the Y lever. Works fine, as far as I can tell. The most important part was getting the switch nice and tight on the bracket, so it wouldn't slip down slightly.

#3594 3 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

How did you attach the arm to a new switch? Solder?

The little collars on the switch arm tabs/brackets themselves just snapped onto the little nubs on the switch body.

I used a jeweler's flathead screwdriver to carefully pop the old arm off the nubs on the old switch housing; the arm tabs/brackets put enough tension on the new switch body to hold the arm in place. That's just what I did, because I had another switch lying around that had a rollover wire arm on it.

1 week later
#3595 3 years ago

Joined the club last week. Installed the game yesterday and notice that. WTH could have happen there!?

P1040939 (resized).JPGP1040939 (resized).JPG
#3596 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

Joined the club last week. Installed the game yesterday and notice that. WTH could have happen there!?[quoted image]

Oof that don’t look good, you’re also missing the railings

#3597 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Oof that don’t look good, you’re also missing the railings

Had not even noticed.......Look like I'll be on a hunt for that plastic part.

Also, noticed 2 chips on the PF. What would be the best way to deal with that. First one I'm going to put a washer on the post. The one near the switch tho...?

P1040942 (resized).JPGP1040942 (resized).JPGP1040943 (resized).JPGP1040943 (resized).JPG
#3598 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

Joined the club last week. Installed the game yesterday and notice that. WTH could have happen there!?[quoted image]

Looks like the old incandescent bulbs locked on somehow and melted the plastic housing.

#3599 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

WTH could have happen there!?

Looks like a peaceful protest at the life guard station got out of hand again!

#3600 3 years ago

I would just touch up that playfield. And put some clear on it. Looking at the rest of the playfield that would be enough.

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