Were new decals or originals?

Anybody have a lead on the front coin door decal, one with Sonic on it?

I pm'ed robb63 as I noticed he had some a few years back but prolly all out Im assuming.

I uploaded the artwork right here - have someone print out a sticker for you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-clubmembers-only/page/44#post-4308317

I am needing a Dmd Display for a Baywatch If anyone has one for sale Let me know Thanks

the original? I got one pm me if interested.

I just did a total shop job on my baywatch, which included removing everything on the topside to clean and polish. All back together successfully but now the ball when launched on the skill shot moves quicker and hits the ball gate before it has a chance to open up by the pops. Can i adjust the timing of the gate to open quicker?

I wish I had found this when I was looking. I ordered one from The Netherlands
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/6183/s/sega-door-decal/category/263/

While a used original might be a good bit cheaper. Adding a ColorDMD to this game might be one fo the best mods in pinball! dimthedaylights I'm not meaning to step on your toes.

no youre 100% right the only reason i have an original is i put in the colordmd, and I have it in all my machines but in this machine its an absolute must

Are you sure it's not just hitting a guide on the side? I had that problem and solved it with a piece of plastic taped to the inside of the launcher.

A couple additional considerations that could help with this problem:

1) Check the two screws for the ball launch wireform closest tot he shooter lane. You need to ensure that those screws are tightened properly which serve to align the wireform at the appropriate height and ensure the ball makes proper contact with the launcher and has the right momentum to make the longer skill shot.

2) Check to ensure that the wireform behind the guard toward where the ball drops onto the playfield at the end of the ball launch is properly screwed in/secured. It's possible that this wireform isn't secured/positioned properly and that could impact the ball's path during the skill shot launch.

3) Are you running the chad code? If not, I know that his code helped to address the gate timing and could help to resolve this. I wouldn't think this is your issue since it sounds as if you didn't experience this issue prior to your shop job.

Thanks!!!

Ok dumb question time which way does the coil sleeve go in the launch assembly?

Flange end will be opposite to the coil stop

Wait really? I think I did it wrong so the part that sticks out should be at the ball facing side not the stop facing side? When i replaced the sleeves i just copied what was already done. ( worth nothing it sticks out passed the coil on both sides but I guess the flange side as you said is what I’m referring to)

There is no "coil stop" on the ball launcher (the plunger hits the ball - not a "coil stop"). The flanged end of the sleeve goes to the rear (it would be closest to you when you're standing next to the coin door).

Sorry meant rubber grommet that the plunger hits

So to be clear the the coil sleeve goes in from the side with the wired connection not the side that faces the play field?

Yes! Also, there should be a spring washer (some people call it a wavy washer) on that end as well.

Yup! Got all that thanks, I just stupidly have the sleeve reversed! Appreciate the help

Looking to install chad's rom 4.01 Theres a note about running display rom 4.00 on pinball code webpage "make sure your game is running DISPLAY VERSION 4.00 for proper game functionality. " My game has display V4.02 for rom3 and rom0.

Anybody know if these are compatible? Is it display version 4.00 and up or has to be 4.00? I actually couldnt even find any info on 4.02?

So, when you boot up, the very first screen should say something like "Display Version A4.00". Does yours say something different? I wouldn't go by the label on the chips.

Correct, it actually says 4.02

anyone have a spare plastic that goes over the shark targets?

CBDDBB73-13FA-4EF4-A645-D96E7F451170 (resized).jpeg

Had to see the plastic. (Added pic) Will keep an eye out and let you know If i see one.

I don't recall anyone ever having this problem. I would go ahead and upgrade the game ROM to ChadH 4.01, and see what happens. If it doesn't play well, I would downgrade the display back to v4.00. The original game ROM version has so many issues, it sucks all the fun out of the game.

Two questions for the team:

1. I recently got sick of not being able to get a ball up the left ramp, so I installed a “Guns N Roses” coil on the lower right flipper. It fixed the problem, but now the game feels off balance, with one side way stronger than the other. I wonder if installing the old right coil on the left side would help. Has anyone tried this?

2. About 90% of my drains occur when the ball comes down the right side lane, past the shark flipper, bounces off the wire lane divider and falls into the outline. Any tips for how I can fix this for a more consistently clean feed to the right flipper?

I will look tommorow.

Adjust the shark flipper within it's pawl (take a slow mo of the ball running down it; if the ball hits the the wire, adjust the flipper to the right; if it hits the outlane rubber, adjust it to the left.

I put new stops and sleeves in and cleaned everything up (as the plungers looked good) a few weeks ago, and it has made ALL the difference; after a marathon game, I found making the full lifeguard ramp extremely difficult if not impossible; now not a problem at all. Having a GNR myself, I know how strong those coils are, and I would be worried about potentially causing damage to things. And I can only imagine how unbalanced/underpowered the other flippers must feel now. I'd swap back and fully rebuild the lower flippers and restop/coil the ironman and shark flippers.

Thanks - replacing the pawl and links, coil stops, coils and EOS switches on both lower flippers was my first step. When that didn't help, I got a new Rottendog board for the lower flippers and it had no noticeable effect. Voltages have been checked, the playfield has been re-waxed and upgrading the right coil is a last resort. You're right - the left ramp is super easy now, but I'm afraid of damaging my center ramp and standup targets. I'm learning how to play more gently on that side of the play field.

I've replaced the right flipper coil three times now (twice with the recommended coil) and it's always great at first, but after two weeks it starts to get sluggish, so I'm holding off before I call this "fixed." Maybe this new coil will weaken to the sweet spot where it can get the ball up the tower ramp without damaging any of the other stuff on the playfield.

I installed LOTR Coils on both Baywatch and Godzilla, never looked back, and yes I had rebuilt them before upping the coils and could instantly feel the better performance.

Very strange indeed...

It may or may not help, but check for loose transistors or cold solder joints on the high power section of the flipper board. They are notorious for getting wacked by inadvertent playfield drops on them (what I refer to as the data east/sega flop)

Now that I just reread what you posted, you swapped to a rd flipper board and it still had issues...

Check ALL of the fuses in the game. Even ones that aren't associated with the flippers can have an effect. Use a meter, not by sight.

Check the cpu board flipper relay for cold solder joints or for the relay itself going out.

The flipperwinkel DE repair site has been invaluable to me in working on DE/Sega games.

I have one but I do live in Australia
PM if you’re interested

New member here. My wife and I drove to Cincinnati this weekend to pick up our new Baywatch from a fellow pinsider. The whole family is really loving it, as we haven't had a DMD game since I sold my DW five years ago.

I have been looking to buy an early DMD game for a couple months, but kept striking out. My wife was feeling sorry for me and started looking herself to see what's available. She knows nothing about pinball, but theme is very important to her. She loves Marvel and kept saying what aobut this, and I say it's xxxx money, then nevermind. She came across Baywatch and said said you didn't tell me they made a Baywatch pinball. I immediately had approval to up my budget, so search was on. Patience isn't our strong suit, so we did a short road trip to pick one up.

Quick question, as I haven't had time to dig in. The shark Vuk doesn't eject balls unless there is a ball search. Maybe it's just an adjustment issue? I'll try to figure it out tomorrow, but I'm still learning this stuff. This is the first Sega I've not only owned, but ever played.
IMG_20200912_204025384 (resized).jpg

The switch in the vuk might be bad . Go to switch test to see. They have a bad rep. of going bad ! If you have to order a new switch - get 2.

Yep, check the switch. If you don't get your shark award when you hit the scoop, probably a bad switch.

Great pickup! If you don't already have it, Chad H has after market code for this game that REALLY polishes up the rules and scoring.

Also to follow up even more, don’t use your finger to see if the switch is good, use a ball after. You could find it just isn’t travellling enough with the ball

Oops, used a pencil to push down and got nothing. I'm going to figure out how to test the switch other ways. Maybe it's a Sega thing, but the diagnostics don't seem to run the tests. Lots to learn.

Edit: Ok, dummy me wasn't closing the coin door for the diagnostic tests. All switches register when activated except the shark scoop. I suppose that means bad switch.?

I'm putting together a LED list. Has anyone done this and can share? I don't want a pre-assembled kit, becuase I have a mix of LED and incandescent.

Don't use your finger to test with the coin door closed or your finger will be hurting . Just look for the switch test in Diag. when your done the Hoff. will say " you did all you could ".

It could be bad or just need adjusted. I can't recall off the top of my head if thats a switch or an opto. Check for the obvious loose wire, bad diode, etc also.

It's a loop microswitch. I'm digging through this thread and there are links to replacements switches that is a Y design and I see other threads about the shark scoop with similar information that it's probably a bad switch. I'm going to order one soon and try to replace. Bummer I didn't notice this yesterday until I got it home. I'm going to consider it a learning experience, as this is something I need to learn to deal with. Right now I'm going to plug the hole, so we don't have multiple ball searches each game when a boll goes down the shark scoop.

Edit: Hooray! It was a loose diode on the switch. Must have come loose in transit. I still need to get a decent soldering iron, but electrical tape has it together for now. This machine cleaned up nice. Now all I need to do is order LEDs and I'm set.

Sweet, glad that helped! I would get a soldering iron ASAP and just replace the diode entirely so it doesn't happen again.

If you're looking for LEDs, Comet makes some great stuff. If you are going to LED the whole game, just be warned that it is a colossal pain in the ass as all the ground braid on the GI lamps is stapled down...boo. That said, it looks killer when done.

Put in my Comet order last night, plus iron from Amazon. I did an eyeball inventory of the different colors and base types. I don't think I'm going to worry about the really hard GI bulbs at the moment, but would love to access the pop bumbers to get LEDs in there. Those bulbs are out.

I'm bumming out I didn't order a nvram from Comet when I had enough in the cart for free shipping. Oh well.

I just ordered Chad's update from Matt's Basement Arcade. Can't wait to put that in. Also, bonus my Pingulp arrived the day we got home with the pin, which I bought with Ebay's 25 year anniversary credit for being a 20 yr long member.

This game is so much fun and has so much going for it. The icing on the cake is this my wife's nearly grail theme. The hot swimsuit babes is no problem for her.

Can anyone comment on this??? It doesn't seem right for a ROM burning service like Matt's Basement Arcade to be using Chad's ROMs which are available free. Maybe I'm wrong and they have permission??

Chad allows it, I don't have a rom burner, so I got Matts basement to do mine. You can toss Chad a few bucks for his troubles.
Read up Chads site about it.

"You like what I am doing?

Please note, if you pay someone to burn a ROM for you then I see none of that money. Feel free to toss a donation my way. It is much appreciated and keeps me motivated.

PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online! "

Same, I'm not going to buy a ROM burner and ROMs for one game to do myself. Matt's ROMs are talked highly of in this thread. His price is really good, as shipping is almost more. I'll donate to Chad when I get it working. I'm really looking forward to it.

Also, just realized Pinball Life has the NVRAM, not Comet. Now I need to get a basket going there.

Does anyone have the color code for the blue cabinet paint? I have some spots I would really love to touch up.

Don't forget the large color dmd while you have the credit card out .

20200829_212106 (resized).jpg

Credit card is put away. Just made an order at Titan for some bands and a few LEDs I forgot to order from Comet. I would love a ColorDMD, but that will have to wait. My orange DMD is nice and bright, so will probably only replace if it fails.

I played for an hour and half tonight and couldn't beat the high scores my wife and kids put up today while I was at work. Turns out they were using the extra cabinet button on the left under the start button to use 5 balls. Not fair, but I'm not going to resort to that to beat them.

Still looking for that blue cabinet color code if anyone has it.

Baywatch Blue sold here:

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

I haven't used it myself, so cannot tell you how well it matches.