Titan clear for all my pins. They cast no shadows.
Quoted from Pinballocks:Titan clear for all my pins. They cast no shadows.
Perfect for Dracula pins, then.
Quoted from goggleloy:Guys need some help. Had my playfield come down on me today while fixing a switch. Took out the subway ramp, anyone have one for sale? Mine is in a million pieces
I remembered this when thinking about a home brew pinball. You may be able to use PVC or some type of flex pipe or something of that nature. It’s under the playfield so I wouldn’t think you’d care how it looks as much as being functional.
Quoted from maffewl:Quoted from goggleloy:
Guys need some help. Had my playfield come down on me today while fixing a switch. Took out the subway ramp, anyone have one for sale? Mine is in a million pieces
I remembered this when thinking about a home brew pinball. You may be able to use PVC Or some type of flex pipe or something of that nature. It’s under the playfield so I wouldn’t think you’d care how it looks as much as being functional.
You might also inquire with Freeplay40 in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps. The ramp is probably too large to do as a single piece for his tooling, but since this is under the playfield and aesthetics are not that critical, he might be able to build it in a 2 or 3-piece package.
Just joined the club guys! She needs a lot of work...but it’s mine now and looking forward to the challenge!
384C9E1F-24A9-478B-ADAE-76E948DF7E87 (resized).jpeg4BA10F97-60F9-4470-9FCA-95FD7C753456 (resized).jpeg7AA510E7-11AA-4FBD-AA6E-52B11CD0004B (resized).jpeg9997E105-F1F6-4050-95C4-3C1DCFC2B46D (resized).jpegMy wife was watching a house show and it showed the Hoff being interviewed in front of his Baywatch.
At 2 minute mark.
https://www.cnbc.com/video/2020/01/13/tay-hasselhoff-lists-her-dads-3point6m-home.html
Quoted from pinballdork:My wife was watching a house show and it showed the Hoff being interviewed in front of his Baywatch.
At 2 minute mark.
https://www.cnbc.com/video/2020/01/13/tay-hasselhoff-lists-her-dads-3point6m-home.html[quoted image]
Ha MINE just did the same thing, took a pic of the tv show she was watching
Finished buttoning everything up today, and played a few games.
So, I have a dead switch in the shark hole. I thought I had a dead center lane switch, but it responds to a switch test. Just, the vast majority of time, it doesn't respond to a skill shot. Also, after a ball search, the trough eject keeps firing a few times and then the auto launcher fires. This happens even after a ball has been found and had hit some switches. Software bug?
Use the ball during the switch test instead of your finger, see if that makes a difference.
Maybe it’s just an adjustment.
ALSO, do you have Chad code in it??? Make sure, it’s the friggin best
Quoted from northerndude:Use the ball during the switch test instead of your finger, see if that makes a difference.
I'll give it a shot.
Quoted from northerndude:ALSO, do you have Chad code in it??? Make sure, it’s the friggin best
I am not. I need to find someone to burn a ROM for me.
Also, when I got the machine, the post that mounts in the gap between the left inland and out lane was at the bottom of the cabinet. It looks to me like I need to pull the long red trough off of the machine to get to that spot. Is that correct?
For cleaning that trough, is removal the only method?
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Also, when I got the machine, the post that mounts in the gap between the left inland and out lane was at the bottom of the cabinet. It looks to me like I need to pull the long red trough off of the machine to get to that spot. Is that correct?
For cleaning that trough, is removal the only method?
Yeah, I did mine, was filthy.
Just needed a drill with a long bit adapter. Didn’t take me too long to do it.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:...
I need to find someone to burn a ROM for me.
...
Ok, so the switch problems are resolved. The shark hole was a broken diode lead, and I just had to bend the lane wire up higher to work. Prior to pulling the under playfield trough, I just put a rubber band between the post and the wire guide, and it worked fine.
Edit:
I still have to fix the weird behavior with the ball eject. I suspect that it is one of the switches on that assembly.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I still have to fix the weird behavior with the ball eject. I suspect that it is one of the switches on that assembly
There are quite a bit of known issues with the ball throughs on Sega games. Luckily they are pretty easy to fix. Go to settings and go to clear ball through it will show if all switches are showing balls in through. There is a red light opto in the last position right before it sends the ball to the shooter lane. A lot of time this opto needs cleaning/adjusting.
Anyone have a topper they would part with, or even one they would be willing to scan (or an existing scan)?
Quoted from grantopia:Anyone have a topper they would part with, or even one they would be willing to scan (or an existing scan)?
I bought one cheap from ministry of pinball OR planetary pinball Maybe?0
I recieved my Cliifys today anyone have pictures of theirs installed and also is anyone running the Chad code?
Quoted from Rocketrob:I recieved my Cliifys today anyone have pictures of theirs installed and also is anyone running the Chad code?
Since I live a few blocks from Cliff, I had mine installed last week. I'll post some pics shortly.
There was one change. For those who got their sets before last week, at least some, if not most or all, of the playfields have a post that goes through the playfield that is riveted to the guide that curves behind the earthquake VUK. There is no hole or notch in the original protector for that post. I had to snip out a piece of the cliffy to install it. Cliff has started snipping out that piece on new sets, but you might need to do that if you had already received one.
Quoted from northerndude:Everyone is running Chad code!!
I've got a set of Chad ROMs ordered. I'm currently running v3.
Here are some pics. The first is of the back of that guide I mentioned. You can see where I had to snip out part of it for the guide support post.
84964893_180546953308179_8013006177887584256_n (resized).jpg84856473_221831108848274_1020123606895558656_n (resized).jpg85225031_197361924831954_4865973495672078336_n (resized).jpg84734665_565336794196256_2439424789996109824_n (1) (resized).jpgQuoted from northerndude:Scoop one looks nice, would be good protection
Definitely worth the money. You have to remove a couple of parts on the bottom of the playfield, but it was trivial while I already had the rest of the playfield torn down for cleaning.
Quoted from Clytor:I have a set of Titans and Cliffy's to go on mine. I haven't done a tear down on one of these yet.
A BW teardown is in the higher bracket of difficulty. But that just got dwarfed last night when I tore down my PF for my Transformers, made BW feel like an early 80’s stern teardown. That TF is hell.
On my bay-watch, if the balls goes thru the spinner but it don't make it to the kicker, the gate still opens and the kicker still fires. Anybody else notice this.?
I’ve added my cliffy set too. Doesn’t seem to have the piece at the back mentioned before but the front lifts when I tighten the screws in place. Playfield now back in place as well. Now to replace plastics
555B679E-3CA6-4EF7-A394-F1AB039AE473 (resized).jpeg0D7934E4-2A80-4084-A434-6AACC44A566E (resized).jpegBFBAEFCC-3CB3-419B-A835-A5E7411489BC (resized).jpegI had a big problem with the shire protector on my LOTR doing the sme thing. It's a pain in the ass but I was able to "pre bend" the offending edge down slightly to sit flush after the screws were tightened. I don't know if this is a "cliffy approved' or recommended action but it was the only way I found to make it flat.
Looking to join the club but would like a little price help first. If there was a pristine Baywatch that has little to no cabinet wear/marks, was fully shopped recently with all new rubbers and has all leds and color dmd, what would be a fair price? Trying to see what a nice example of this game would go for so I have an idea what to look for. Thanks
Quoted from fatality83:Looking to join the club but would like a little price help first. If there was a pristine Baywatch that has little to no cabinet wear/marks, was fully shopped recently with all new rubbers and has all leds and color dmd, what would be a fair price? Trying to see what a nice example of this game would go for so I have an idea what to look for. Thanks
"Pins are only worth the amount someone is willing to pay for" is what most will say but with one you are describing I will go out on a limb and offer $3500. It's a great pin with the only drawback is the theme. Personally I like the theme and a great example of the early to mid 90's nostalgia. There are so many satisfying shots, has good flow, and is packed with great fun.
One of the best “bang for your buck” games ever made. Great shooter!! Even if you’re not a great shooter! Like me, ha
pristine, collector edition will de 3500-4000. The only drawback for me to this machine is the artwork. It was that era with thick line drawings.
The theme is a bit camp, great late 80's early 90's. Music is solid, could use a pinsound upgrade. The color dmd is I think a must. It will be expensive but looks great. Great pin, lots of fun.
Put the pinsound board in my Baywatch this evening, no luck, sound it cutting out. I need to buy the Data east power booster first. Any experience with that? Next to that I am working on a Baywatch remastered mix. I already added all original music in. David made some real bad music
Tonight I have had some issues with my BayWatch when a ball is in play the shooter just keeps randomly trying to kick a ball onto the playfield even though I’m not on multiball.
Quoted from Rocketrob:Tonight I have had some issues with my BayWatch when a ball is in play the shooter just keeps randomly trying to kick a ball onto the playfield even though I’m not on multiball.
I'd start by checking the shooter lane switch and trough switches. If all are good, I'd next check the switches in the same line.
Quoted from maffewl:I'd start by checking the shooter lane switch and trough switches. If all are good, I'd next check the switches in the same line.
Agreed. I had that happen once and the switch where the ball gets staged before being served to the shooter lane was just slightly bent against the trough so the game kept thinking there was a ball there and trying to fire it.
Quoted from V_piscopo:There are quite a bit of known issues with the ball throughs on Sega games. Luckily they are pretty easy to fix. Go to settings and go to clear ball through it will show if all switches are showing balls in through. There is a red light opto in the last position right before it sends the ball to the shooter lane. A lot of time this opto needs cleaning/adjusting.
How does this work? I was exploring it myself last night.
Quoted from Scoot:"Pins are only worth the amount someone is willing to pay for" is what most will say but with one you are describing I will go out on a limb and offer $3500. It's a great pin with the only drawback is the theme. Personally I like the theme and a great example of the early to mid 90's nostalgia. There are so many satisfying shots, has good flow, and is packed with great fun.
They're selling for more than that now. $3500 is a fair price.
Quoted from sdpinballa:They're selling for more than that now. $3500 is a fair price.
I agree completely. Pins are desirable again and fetching prices much higher than just a few years ago.
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