Anyone know where I can get a shooter plastic? Can’t find one and mine is missing

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-BAY830-5475-30

Well, I realize what you see on your own screen doesn’t match mine when you post (because the ads rotate)... but I still found it funny when reading your post!!
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Lol...yeah, It popped up on mine right after I posted so I deleted it . I forget to check Pinside for parts

New coil sleeve and adjust your eos so power stays full untill in most upper position.
Worked for me!

Baywatch uses electronic flippers and preset power timings.

Then its a power switch for hold power maybe? But annyway mine was bent and the coilsleeve totaly black.

The EOS switch on Data East and Sega games tells the flipper PCB the position of the flipper. If the flipper gets knocked down from a fast moving ball, the PCB can sense this and send another high power pulse to bring the flipper back up.

For the weak flipper issue I would suggest replacing the coil sleeve, cleaning the plunger, and ensuring the bushing isn't restricting rotation of the flipper bat shaft.

I did do that and it’s better. Still seems a little weak but I can get up the ramp now a lot easier. Luckily I had sleeves and stops already at my house. Thanks all

Having an issue with Baywatch. Flippers work fine but I can not change the Skill Shot at the beginning of a ball. Machine was working fine. If it matters, it has Rottendog flipper boards. Please help!

Got the DMD yesterday, can't wait to get it in this weekend, thanks again, sir!

I'd start with a switch test in the service menu if you haven't done so already; do all the flippers register, even after staging the two upper flippers?

Knowing that you just swapped to a colordmd, I'd bet a ribbon cable/other connection was knocked loose in the backbox during the install and just needs to be reseated.

Yeah, I suspect I knocked something loose installing the ColorDMD. Let me know how the DMD swap goes for you!

Anyone here ever hook up a Pinsound board to Baywatch? Would be cool to have the full theme song in high quality sound.

I'll probably toy around with this at some point. My pin sound is in my Radical right now. I'm trying to finish that sound package first.

So I swapped out my dmd that had some lines out for a known good one. With the new one in, the game won’t boot, and it sounds like there is faint “chirping” noise coming from the dmd itself. If I swap back to the old dmd, game fires right up.

Any ideas folks? The only difference is the old dmd is a vishay Dale and the new one is just labeled as vishay...

When I installed the ColorDMD it came with an adapter for the Main 4-pin power connector. But the orientation of the wires were reversed and it looked like a previous owner modified the orientation of the wires in the connector.

I think it’s possible that the previous owner replaced the original DMD with one from a different Sega machine that possibly had a different wiring configuration.

Long story short, I was having the same issue as you with the ColorDMD. We checked the wiring schematic and realized the issue. So we flip the connector around the other way and jammed it into the adapter and everything fired up. I assumed they sent me the wrong adapter but now I think the DMD I sent you Was from a different machine that used the reverse wiring configuration. I think that will fix your issue.

Unfortunately my Baywatch was used in a tournament this weekend so I don’t have it at home so can’t take pictures of what I mean but hopefully you understand what I’m saying.

Hmmm, I’ll take a peak shortly and update

Here’s the power to it...

FWIW, the connector is unidirectional, and without looking at the schematic, I would be hesitant to flip the connector around, sending +12v to NC and vice versa...

The old one isn’t labeled on the female side:

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I’m just worried that flipping it will send juice where it shouldn’t go, and that could be a problem, haha.

Yes, In the first picture, flip the connector so the blue wire is connecting to the +12v. Turn it on. If display doesn’t work, no harm done, turn it back off. My plug doesn’t even have a red wire and the red wire will be connecting to NC “not connected”. So no worries. I think that is the issue.

I'm going to wire up a 4 pin molex today (to plug and play) and give it a whirl.

I’m looking at the schematic it looks like I’m right. The blue wire is the 12v you need for the DMD. The red wire is 25v and not used. Looking at the traces of the two pictures you posted it looks like the DMD I sent you is opposite of the one you pulled out.

I was glancing at the schematic on IPDB, and this appears correct. I've swapped DMD's in the past, and have NEVER run across this, haha.

I'll twist up a conversion pigtail when I get home. Thanks again!

Got bored at work and rolled my own...we’ll see what happens when I get home

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Very nice! Should do the trick! I just jammed the molex into the adapter the wrong way to get it to work. I need to make one of these!

I had to make my own also. A diagram for each DMD brand is in the schematics section of the manual.

Tucked in all neat and clean, and we’re back in business!

Thanks again for the help, as I probably would have overthought this minuscule issue and broke out the meter, haha.
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Is it common for the trap door in the tower not to open fast enough when you hit it up the ramp? Or do i need to look at that switch?

I believe, depending on your settings, the flap should be up all the time once a set of lock drops is completed...

Glad you got it working! I was worried you were gonna think I sent you a bad DMD!

No sir, the thought never even crossed my mind.

Also, this is pinball afterall; things wiggle loose, the same games are built with completely different components, etc. Troubleshooting/repairing them is a big part of the fun, for me at least.

The trap door should drop after completing the flag lock targets once the ball passes the gate.

Mine does that and I cant find a setting to keep it up. I adjusted the switch and it seems to catch the ball now but I haven’t hit a real hard shot at it. Previously, I’d hit a hard shot up the ramp and the ball would be over it when it lifted so it wouldn’t lock

Sorry for the confusion...but get ready for some more, haha.

Upon the completion of the three center flag drop targets, within the allotted time (signaled by the beeping you hear), the ramp flap should come up for the entire duration of your game, until a ball is shot up the lifeguard tower ramp, to "capture it"; the "locks" can be set to virtual (the ball just continues around the ramp to the right flipper, but must actually complete the ramp to count as the lock), or standard (the flap comes up and "captures" the ball, and a new ball is fed to the shooter lane and auto plunged (it's not actually "captured", rather led by the subway back to the bottom)). I believe there is also a setting that you can stack the lock qualifiers i.e. you complete the three lock drop targets three times, every attempt up the lifeguard ramp from then on there will count as a "locked ball".

I have mine set for physical "capture", and lock qualifiers not stackable (you have to complete a lock shot up the ramp, to re-qualify the lock qualifier drop targets. I find this less frustrating when trying to get mode progression, as you are perpetually locked out of "Mitch" when multiball is in the qualifying stages).

Great nuances in the settings/rules of this game...sans the lockout of progression towards "Mitch".

Setting the locks to virtual also makes it more difficult to score jackpots during Earthquake.

Finally had a day to shop, led, replace with titan rubbers and fix all the little issues with my baywatch.

Cleaned up great and is playing well!

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Anyone where to get a plastic set for baywatch?

They show up on eBay from time to time.

I'll buy a set.

I just got a set of sling plastics from user maffewl to replace my broken stock ones. $18 for the pair... I think they look great!

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Shark mod?!

Hmmm... on my game when I qualify the locks (lit on the tower), the flap stays down until the ramp entry switch is triggered... then the flap opens to catch the ball, and then closes again. I'm using the Chad H code.

Where is it?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-baywatch-nearly-imamaculate

Grab some popcorn

Hey all. I created a plastic protector for the commonly damaged drop target "targets lite lock" plastic. Link to ad below for anyone interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/87167

I also have replacements of the drop target plastic and the shooter lane boat plastic as well if needed. Thanks!

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I’m having an issue where the trap door in the Tower isn’t opening fast enough. So either the ball hits the door as it is opening and pretty much center drains everytime or the ball passes over the door before it opens.

Anyone else have this issue before? It just started happening.

You need to have that ramp gate switch on a hair trigger so the ramp starts opening the second the ball starts the gate wire moving. If it's got too much play you'll get misses like that.

Ah! Thank you, the gate wasn’t engaging the switch properly. All fixed up now.

Anyone have a working large dmd for sale? Mine is starting to gas out, taking 30-60 seconds to fire up.

I have one from my color dmd replacement. Whatever a used one goes for -10% shipped? I have no idea what it's worth. Make me an offer I guess. Or someone under cut me at 11%.

ok, mine is also showing that behaviour. Will that eventually result in gassing out?