PBL or Marco?

Some old blackjack machines have them.

Isn't this it?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6884-00-TK

No thats square. Baywatch is a rectangle shape

would this work?

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/pushbuttons/GPB540

This is what you need.

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Any ideas where to get a plastic set for Baywatch?

Hey all. I made custom CJ and Caroline sling plastics for my Baywatch and thought I'd share with the club. If interested, link to my ad below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85033

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awesome! Glad to see custom parts being made

I have a couple shaker motor kits available for immediate shipping:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/75769

These are awesome. Don't sleep on it!

What triggers the shaker motor?

Believe it or not, the shaker motor triggers are programmed in from the factory. So it triggers directly from the CPU. The main triggers are: Pops - Center VUK - Shark Kick-out. There are a few others but they are more subtle, the ones you'll notice are the ones listed.

There are also some good low end frequencies in the audio too, mainly in the pops and slings. Shaker+powered sub=

The DMD controller board in my game was being so problematic it was causing the sound board to reset due to the draw on the 5v rail. So I wired it up to an arcade machine power supply and installed a 2.5A inline fuse between the power supply and controller board. With the board on its own power supply, the 5V level in the game showed much better and the sound board stopped resetting.

As for the display controller, it was still only showing 4.83v at the board itself. I had to increase the arcade power supply up to 5.2v, which is what we normally use in arcade machines with similar issues. After making this adjustment, the controller now shows 4.95v.

I played a few games with no display resets and no sound issues. But the 2.5A fuse runs warm to the touch, and the various PAL chips on the controller board are nearly hot to the touch. Not sure how long this will work until my original 24 year old board dies completely, but it must be pulling 2A of current (10W).

The experience of mine and others is irrefutable evidence that as these DMD controller boards age, they consume more and more power. I don’t know if the PAL chips are slowly shorting themselves out or what.

Yep, I wish Rottendog (or whoever) would make a replacement board.

Luis with PinballSP has had one available for some time. Trying to get the last bit of use out of my original board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/videosp-192x64-new-dmd-controller-board-for-sega-large-screens

Where can you get the new code at for the game?

http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads

Also, for some reason these Sega system 3b games love to eat insert lamps. The game I service on location had all but 3 or 4 lamps burned out. Here's the body count. The two partially blackened bulbs in the lower right are higher quality GE ones. The rest are the inferior Taiwanese lamps.
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Time to led her up!
Never had a problem with my leds
Never had a better day

The business can't afford LEDs and LED OCD boards for all 13 of our games. Otherwise I would love to. I get incandescent bulbs for free basically since nobody wants them.

Very interesting - I was not aware! Anyone out there using one of these yet (and can provide feedback)? He will not guarantee they work with either ColorDMD or Pin2DMD. One would think if it worked with the original plasma, it would work with anything else. Just curious if anyone has tried it yet.

I’ve been in the club for about 4 months now. It is my first pinball and I love it. Have been spending way too much on mods but this is how she looks so far. Picking up a ColorDMD from Bob at the York Show!

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What mods do you have?

Well maybe not mods per say but upgrades. Full Comet LEDs, Tilt Graphic Game Blades, Titan rubbers, new glass, center trough lighting, shark hole lighting, replaced any cracked plastics, replaced damaged left ramp, replaced most switches, NOS cabinet switches, replaced most PF screws with new, Bent Plastic DMD glare protector, will be a ColorDMD, running Chads 4.01 code. I have purchased all the typical “toy” mods such as the plastic shark, Baywatch trucks, palm trees etc, but didn’t really like them after test fitting. Um, the Shark sign and Laser Kick stickers from eBay. Im probably forgetting some stuff. Oh, Flipper Fidelity speaker upgrade. Recapped all all power boards. Again, I’m probably forgetting some stuff.

It should work with any existing display solution. It works with plasma and his DMDMK66 LED display.

pm'd you freakmech

Nice looking Baywatch!

I had a similar issue when I purchased my machine years ago. After doing a full restore, and rebuilding the flippers in the process, all is good. I have the standard coils and set to default settings. No issues at all, and plays perfect.

Where did you get the plastic set? and ramps?

I would rebuild them for sure. I assume you are, but are you measuring the pf angle on the pf itself and not the glass? Mine has stock coils and is set to 6 degrees, maybe a hair less and seems to play just about right, not too slow but I can make all the ramps fine. I have not tried the GnR coils, but I know a few people that have and you may end up breaking some plastics or targets with them and the closer shots. Have you checked how the coil for the laser kick is sitting and changed out the coil sleeve?

Correct, Chad recommends not setting the power to high with his code (or at least used to when I installed it) as it messes with the gate timing. I honestly didn't notice much coil power difference, if any, when I had it set to high briefly.

There was a guy parting out a PF on eBay about a month ago for cheap. I got lucky.

Because Chad changed the power adjustment code, the 8 bit integer for the gate rolls over to an extremely low number.

Sorry, I meant to say Chad fixed the gate power when set to high in version 4.01 of his code.

Yes. This bug was fixed in 4.01. So setting your power to High should be fine in 4.01. I don't think it will mess up gate timing.

If you are running 4.00 or less (why would you!?!?! ) then do not set your power to High.

Hey per3, I had some of the same issues the kicker coils not hit the ball around the orbit properly when I got mine. Both left and right side. My coils were fine but I found they weren’t aligned properly and were not hitting the ball dead center. So a played around with the alignment of the coils and fixed the problem. So you might want to check alignment of the kicker and Shark Hole VUK if you are having problems.

What did you do to solve the problem? Use a custom value of 255 or less for the gate coil?

If I recall correctly, I think I maxed out the timer on that gate and set it to not adjust based on "Adjustment 32 - Coil Pulse Power" because regardless of coil power level, that gate should be opened for maximum possible time.

Quick question, I just got everything working on my batwatch but the right flipper seems like it will never make it up the tower ramp. It’s the recommended cool in the manual. Any suggestions?

Try adjusting the levelers to lower the pitch of the playfield. Also, waxing the playfield might help.

I did both but it’s already starting to get floaty. I am right around 6.5 pitch based on what my phone says

Needs to be a perfect shot to make it to the top

Ok, hopefully that’s it because it keeps rolling half way up and then back down through my flippers for a drain

Worse comes to worse you can put a gnr coil in there. Man I miss my Baywatch. I'm living through you guys now.