this one isn't actually too bad! a friend and I had mine completely torn down, cleaned, rebuilt, and reassembled in under 5 hours. Everything was very straightforward, no need for pictures much.

But be careful when cleaning. Scrub too hard and you may end up with a whitewood.

so i started combing over other issues i need to fix since i got this as a working project.... take alook at these pics is normal for wires to be soldered directly to the fuse holders like this.... . also can someone send me a pic of the power board there looks to be a broken connector and someone peeled the coating off the wire and just pressed it in there..... im nor sure what all doesnt work with this machine but everything seems to be working.

IMG_2387 (resized).jpg

IMG_2388 (resized).jpg

IMG_2389 (resized).jpg

Not on this you won't... DE PFs clean up great and are super durable. I had some giant gouges in mine where the shark flipper had been dragging on the PF and it cleaned up perfect with just a bit of novus 2

Is there a list of which style of bulbs are in which location without me having to go under the playfield and look and right down all them......

Not per location, but there's totals of each type in the manual. You can tell what each light is by the under playfield diagram.

Theres only two types. 47s and 555s. The GI will all be 47s. And the others will mostly be 555s

The flashers that are attached to the wire ramps are 906

Anyone else running their Baywatch through a sub? I picked up the new Pinnovators pcb that taps right into the speaker wires of the bottom speaker. It attenuates the signal down to line level to feed a powered sub. It sounds pretty great on this game. The slings, shark hole and few other things have some nice lower frequency audio.

I installed PTHermes' shaker motor kit last week and it is a very nice addition. The instructions were very good. I lost the lamp matrix during the installation, however it had nothing to do with the installation. A fuse by the cabinet Bridge Rectifiers & capacitors went out.

That's great, I have heard BW is fantastic with a shaker

I also added this recently. The kit is great and the amount of shaky shake is tasteful.

Mind posting a video of the shaker in action

Rocketrob there isn't a good way to film a shaker motor. It feels similar to any other pin that has a shaker.

I run all my games through Pinnovators' taps. They run into a 4>1 mixer that feeds my sub. It's amazing how much deep bass there is on these games. @marka and @sgsa at Pinnovators have always been super responsive and helpful.

SDTM Episode 91: Baywatch Pinball Machine Review

Don’t Hassle The Hoff!

I fixed a friend's Frankenstein with an X-Pin power supply. The X-Pin board puts out an excellent 5.15v while under load with the game on at CN4 (CN6 per the original board connector name). By punching down the reproduction factory harness to CN4 I am now getting 5.13v at the display driver board. Problem drop kicked, sucker punched, and solved.

Just recently shopped out my BayWatch with the assistance of my wife. Still have a few things to do but for the most part I wrapped up everything. Replaced a few parts mostly broken plastic pieces.

1E71B13D-BBB7-41E3-9DDE-E704919712DA (resized).jpeg403B27BB-1367-4FA1-A9EA-450B9DCA62C6 (resized).jpeg873BF04D-D3B6-45D7-AECE-E94AA1748D8B (resized).jpeg8A9F0E87-D674-4058-850C-B5457D44CD90 (resized).jpegAF7F8FD8-31FA-4264-B932-7E7B158FB0C9 (resized).jpegB434532F-E7CF-4D04-BE5D-FE786452982D (resized).jpegDEE6805D-2DE4-4435-8587-43DD9BAC70AE (resized).jpegF544B519-979D-4D2E-982D-4A583C90F04E (resized).jpeg

Just popping in to say "hi" and that I really freaking miss this game.

Aaaagh ....I don't want to hear that as I'm thinking of selling mine due to space issue, but know I'll regret it

And worse, youd have to buy a new one after a few monds for more money

Don't do it

Running pinballcode.com updated ROM and a couple things that may have been bugs in the original factory ROM still exist.

1)
The final shot you make to complete the CPR mode will also count progress to the vertical lights in front of the main shot that completed CPR. It counts the shot some time after the CPR ending animations stop. I don't think it should be awarding vertical progress on the final shot that completes CPR.

2)
After playing the Earthquake mode the left outlane laser kick back stays permanently on through the rest of that ball. Sometimes the kick back light stays on or flashes for the rest of the ball. Get this behavior without the super laser kick getting earned.

3)
This one isn't really a bug but just annoying. When you set it to tournament mode it does a restore factory defualts on you and clears all the high scores. You cannot seem to have high scores turned on either in tournament mode. Just set extra balls to OFF and deal with the mystery award if you dont want to lose your audits going into tournament mode. I just had a 3.5billion point game and when I didnt not get to put my name up...

#2 is an intentional feature - your reward for making it to the wizard mode is super laser kick for the rest of that ball.

Check out the modifications made to this Baywatch! Do you like the different translite?

IMG_4189 (resized).jpg

IMG_4190 (resized).jpg

IMG_4191 (resized).jpg

IMG_4196 (resized).jpg

I had that translite, but my wife preferred the stock translite. Nice seeing one installed and lit up, I like it. Only little issue I have with the artwork are all the trees around the water. Baywatch is set at the beach, not in a National forest.

I agree. The color is awesome, but I've never seen a shark that size in a lake with 24 inch deep water.

I LOVE that color DMD though!

The colordmd is fantastic on Baywatch. Well worth the money, plus you can sell the existing DMD to offset the price.

Totally agree...it's badass!

Too expensive for me.

This explains why Tourist Season and Shark Cove modes have started inexplicably a few times during games in the past - I never pieced together why it happened. Good catch - definitely a bug (and it was probably there b4 the Chad code update). I wish I would have caught it during beta testing for the Chad code - I'm sure he could have fixed it easily. The other two things you mention don't bother me (in fact I look at the Super LaserKick for the duration of the ball as just another reward for reaching Earthquake), but this CPR bug does bother me.

I dont mind if it gives you a bonus progress shot. It doesn't give you progress towards the left ramp when the locks are lit, which seems to be 80 percent of the game

That's by design though - it gives you progress toward multiball instead (and multiball is a good thing afterall). I'm sure the shot advancement in this mode was an oversight/bug, but now we have to accept it as a "feature" unfortunately.

If you disable the trap door you'll get lock and mode advancement

Those are all present in the original factory ROM also. Maybe someday I'll do a v.4.02.

I was hoping you might say that. Everyone try to find more errors/bugs to make a new version worth his effort. Keep reporting them on this thread.

Love all your efforts Chad!!
Maybe there are some hidden sound files hidden on the roms to make the tune more complete?

Here's something that could use some improvement:
Option 45 in the settings is Multiball Restart Criterion. This deals with what happens if you don't get any of the 5 jackpots in multiball before 4 balls drain -i.e., second chance consolation mode. The current options are:
EXTRA EASY = This gives you a 15-second chance to shoot the tower ramp fpr a 3-Ball Multiball restart
EASY = Nothing happens
MODERATE = This gives you a 15-second chance to shoot the tower ramp for a 3-Ball Multiball restart (same as EXTRA Easy)
HARD = Nothing happens
EXTRA HARD = Nothing happens

So it looks like the original programmers didn't quite finish this option. A suggested change (changing only EASY, MODERATE, & HARD settings):
EXTRA EASY = This gives you a 15-second chance to shoot the tower ramp for a 3-Ball Multiball restart
EASY = This gives you a 10-second chance to shoot the tower ramp for a 3-Ball Multiball restart
MODERATE = This gives you a 5-second chance to shoot the tower ramp for a 3-Ball Multiball restart
HARD = This gives you a 5-second chance to shoot the tower ramp for a 2-Ball Multiball restart
EXTRA HARD = Nothing happens (No Multiball Restart)

Here's another bug. When you have option 47 (Lock Ball Criterion) set to Hard or Extra Hard, it requires knocking down the drop targets twice to "qualify" the tower to lock a ball. After you knock them down the first time, it plays the "All lifeguards report to the tower" sound bite, but it should not since the tower is not ready to lock a ball. It correctly plays the same sound bite the 2nd time you knock the targets down. But it should not play any sound after the first knockdown (unless there is another appropriate sound file on the ROM for this situation).

I'd also love an option to never spot locks, but light all three locks when a bank is completed

That would be really nice, but I think that came up b4 and was not possible for some reason? I could be wrong (and hope I am).
Adjustment 47 (Lock Qualify Criterion) would be the perfect place to put it since 2 of the options don't currently appear to change anything.

Edit: I researched this a bit, and could not find anything saying it was impossible. Apparently some people accomplish this (or work around this) by putting their machine in tournament mode. This really isn't a solution though based on all the problems outlined in post #2973 above, so this would be a very good update to the code.

Just joined the club last weekend with a working project. Game had flipper/board issues, which I have since squared away (one of the flipper boards was completely missing the low power hold components(!) causing the shark flipper to not hold, $2 SCR re-soldered to the board and a homemade heatsink later, and she's back up and flipping perfectly). Going to further "bullet proof" by wrapping the huge main bundle of wires in loom to protect them from dragging across the boards every time the playfield is lifted, and/or maybe put something over them to shield them.

The last thing I cant seem to figure out, however, is the shark awards aren't lighting up, in gameplay or attract mode. Obviously the same in lamp test. I looked at the matrix, and it appears that the five lamps also share the same column as the ball launch button lamp (which also happens to be out).

I gave up last night as I had to go to bed, but any idea where I should start looking? Nothing was really apparent from the quick once over I gave it. I believe the column wire is yellow/brown, but I don't have any of it in front of me right now. This is the last piece of the puzzle to solve before I tear the top half of the game off for a full cleaning/shop/LED. I haven't completely traced it back to the board yet, but I'm suspecting maybe a bad pin/pulled out wire at the board? Anything else I should look at?

Sounds like you're on the right track to me. Check the matrix and figure out which wire(s) to look at. You can bridge the sockets with a 9v battery (game off) to verify the socket and bulb but it'd be unlikely for just the 5 shark sockets / bulbs to all be bad. You can also pull the connector halfway out and check continuity from the pin to the last socket.

Did someone do a pinsound upgrade for this game, I can only see the original game music in the forum. No enhanced version yet.

little update on the 'Watch...

Lamp matrix up and working! Traced everything back to the connection at the board, and noticed wires 1 and 8 don't terminate at the pins on the board, but rather continue through (assuming for matrix continuity), anyways, the corresponding yellow and brown wire was loose in its connector. a light push with a small flathead, and we were back up and running!

So far:

Shark flipper fixed and fully working (flipper board, repaired missing low voltage section scr)
Upper left flipper fully functioning (replaced cracked bushing, replaced broken compression spring, re-sleeved coil)
All lights/lamps now working.
Both lower flippers fully rebuilt (sans Sonic bats, as they are awesome!)
All lamps (sans stapled GI) replaced with cointaker warm white 1smd frosted Led's.

To do:

Burn/Install Chad's code
Pull the convoluted puzzle of ramps and habit trails for a deep (and I'm guessing first ever) shop job (replace rubbers/full clean and wax/replace GI with LED's)
Adjust the right shark ball launcher, as it shoots and then bobbles a captured ball about half the time (Could also be final game leveling issue, as it's in a temporary work location)
Color DMD, as it looks awesome!

Final thought before full teardown: Does everyone leave the upper left flipper alignment so that it is resting against the wall, or is it supposed to be angled out slightly? Seems like a shot to the ironman ramp will be very challenging. Now that I've just typed that, I should probably tighten down the pawl at the very end of the flipper's stroke to get the full range of motion. As it sits now, it probably has spring tension pushing it into the wall, and there's still more range of motion left. i.e. currently, the flipper can only get 45 degrees of angle, but buy adjusting it in the pawl, I could probably get 65 degrees and still maintain it being flat against the wall while it is at rest. Will check when I get home...

I know it's preference, but do you guys recommend 2smd frosted bulbs (in cool or warm) for the stapled down GI? I like the look of warm, but this one might benefit from cool. (All backboard, inserts, and in/outlane guides /slingshots currently 1 smd frosted warm white). The center of the playfield is much darker than the rest of the game, as I'm sure you're aware.

Final thoughts on the game: This thing is beautiful. Cosmetically, this is the nicest one I have ever seen. The cabinet is *almost* perfect (a nick here or there, but no paint loss/scratches), zero fade, and the playfield/plastics are flawless and everything is present. I can't imagine anybody would have bought this game for home use back then, but it could pass for it. Once I get this baby fully cleaned and dialed in, I can't see it leaving anytime soon. I practically had to kick my wife and two of her girlfriends off the machine when I got back from a show this weekend so I could really get to work on it. It is absolutely packed with features and shots, and is surprisingly deep! The old saying 10lbs of $#!+ in a 5lb bag comes to mind.

All my GI is cool white frosted. 2smd.
The ramp shot with the upper left flipper is difficult, its basically only timing. I get it prob 30-40% of the time I attempt.

I love my BW, I would have to say it would close to the last pin to leave my home.

I'd consider sunlight on a colorful game like this. I prefer it over the cool, personally.

I went with warm on mine and it looked pretty good. Cool felt a bit harsh on all the yellows

I did Comet Warm White 2SMDs. It looks awesome and I receive many compliments on it. That said, Sunlight White is my new go-to. I use it on everything now.