Fairview Park, OH
Quoted from Pinballocks:Grant I swapped both cables. My problem was the pins on the controller.
Both ribbon cables/ribbon cable pins? Hm interesting...can't hurt to try.
(Topic ID: 33977)
Brighton
@pinballocks @Ive
Interesting, I'll try that for sure. For the hell of it because I'm sitting in jury duty doing nothing, I started poking around the schematic on the ribbon cable at the DMD board. I do ok with them but this one is a bit over my head. I did notice pin J3-20 is labeled "reset" and seems to be tied into some sort of 5v circuit/reset thing with some more caps on the board...maybe a clue?
Screenshot_20190312-125213_Drive (resized).jpg
Bermuda Triangle
Quoted from grantopia:I hadn't thought of that, but I don't think I have the equipment needed unfortunately. I may try the power supply in someone else's game if I can track one down.
That is the only time I have seen it, and I have been watching pretty close. It doesn't happen 100% of the time either, so ball 1 could be fine, then ball 2 triggers a reset. I hadn't swapped the cable but mainly because I thought it was just data and not voltage so I assumed that wasn't part of my problem. Can't hurt to try I guess. Are you taking about the cable from the MPU to the DMD?
If you suspect the code, then put in the old roms see what happens
I think its a voltage drop reset
Quoted from jorro:If you suspect the code, then put in the old roms see what happens
I think its a voltage drop reset
I think so too. I messaged Chad and he doesn't have anyone else reporting it, so the search continues!
Swapped ribbon cables from boards to dmd. The pins on back of the dmd, where the power is connected were loose. Hope that clears that up. I'm running original updated code. GF got me a color dmd for xmas, no more problems.
Need advice for switches (fully assembled) as replacements for ones not available. I assume just swapping the arm? if I don't wreck them....
180-5093-00
180-5051-00
Chénens
Hey there, joined the club last week!
Machine os now up and running but there is one thing which is driving me nuts: when ready for multiball the game is freaking flashing everything, making us almost blind.
Any way to reduce/set off this?
Alreasy removed the flashers from backbox and set « flasher option » in menu to 0, but no luck, that’s the whole freaking GI that’s flashing.
Any help appreciated, this us currently ruining our experience with the game 
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Hey there, joined the club last week!
Machine os now up and running but there is one thing which is driving me nuts: when ready for multiball the game is freaking flashing everything, making us almost blind.
Any way to reduce/set off this?
Alreasy removed the flashers from backbox and set « flasher option » in menu to 0, but no luck, that’s the whole freaking GI that’s flashing.
Any help appreciated, this us currently ruining our experience with the game
I believe you want to disconnect CN7.
Quoted from northerndude:If you get
The updated Chad Code it will drastically reduce problems with flashers and GI flashing
Definitely recommended!
Quoted from Nihonmasa:thanks for the feedbacks!
Where can I get this code?
Matt's basement arcade @meloyelo41 will probably be an ad at the bottom of this page, if not he's in the marketplace. Top notch.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Hey there, joined the club last week!
Machine os now up and running but there is one thing which is driving me nuts: when ready for multiball the game is freaking flashing everything, making us almost blind.
Any way to reduce/set off this?
Alreasy removed the flashers from backbox and set « flasher option » in menu to 0, but no luck, that’s the whole freaking GI that’s flashing.
Any help appreciated, this us currently ruining our experience with the game
Did the prior owner install LED flashers? Those are crazy!
Quoted from Nihonmasa:I did... first thing I do when i get a machine is make it running then update the lightings.
In this case it wasn’t the best idea
LOL
I made the same mistake on a Starship Troopers which has 4 banks of 4 flashers each. Seizure city!
Quoted from northerndude:And the updated code will also dramatically increase your FUN !!!!
This! 
Quoted from Chalkey:Matt's basement arcade @meloyelo41 will probably be an ad at the bottom of this page, if not he's in the marketplace. Top notch.
Meloyelo51 
But thanks for the referral!
1 week later
Hey guys, joined the club about 4 weeks ago.
Having updated onto code 4.01, i still got problems with the 'skillshot gate'. 2 out of 3 times it opens too late. In testmode its not opening any time i test it, very randomly. what could it be?
another question, are these 2 aprondecals available anywhere? theyre missing on my machine.
thanks in advance
20190328_194621 (resized).jpgQuoted from throughfire:i still got problems with the 'skillshot gate'. 2 out of 3 times it opens too late. In testmode its not opening any time i test it, very randomly. what could it be?
I was having similar issues with mine when I first got the game. The magnet wasn't strong enough to consistently open the gate, so I reflowed the solder to the coil and the diode. I also slightly bent the metal hinged lever so it was sitting a bit closer to the coil. After performing these tweaks, the gate has been working perfectly ever since. You can access the coil from under the playfield. You just have to remove two screws and the whole assembly pops right out through a small hole.
Quoted from gweempose:I was having similar issues with mine when I first got the game. The magnet wasn't strong enough to consistently open the gate, so I reflowed the solder to the coil and the diode. I also slightly bent the metal hinged lever so it was sitting a bit closer to the coil. After performing these tweaks, the gate has been working perfectly ever since. You can access the coil from under the playfield. You just have to remove two screws and the whole assembly pops right out through a small hole.
thank you very much, it works 
...but just about 5 minutes after fixing it, the 3 pictured lights went out (led) and stopped working. i put new bulbs in, but they still wont light. known problem on a baywatch/sega? what can i do?
20190408_021011 (resized).jpgSo I haven't gotten video mode since I upgraded code, so I took off the glass, and can't even get it then.... Please confirm that video mode (water ski) is attained by getting all the shark targets, and then getting the shark hole. Just want to make sure that is correct before I mess with anything. Thanks.
Quoted from PTHermes:So I haven't gotten video mode since I upgraded code, so I took off the glass, and can't even get it then.... Please confirm that video mode (water ski) is attained by getting all the shark targets, and then getting the shark hole. Just want to make sure that is correct before I mess with anything. Thanks.
That is not correct. It is the first shark award, so you need to roll over the switch above the small flipper then shoot the scoop from that flipper without hitting another switch. The game needs to detect you hitting the switch and activating the flipper before hitting the scoop to start, so you won't be awarded it on a random bounce in, etc. The shark targets are not related to video mode just to activating the "shark flip".
Quoted from throughfire:...but just about 5 minutes after fixing it, the 3 pictured lights went out (led) and stopped working. i put new bulbs in, but they still wont light. known problem on a baywatch/sega? what can i do?
Try re-seating the connector to that light board. If that doesn't work, remove the board from the game and carefully reflow the solder on the connector pins.
Winnipeg, MB
If you have a ColorDMD installed, it could be the original DMD power connector that is no longer used. It should be removed when installing a ColorDMD to prevent confusion. Not saying that's what it is, but a possibility.
Here is some of the fun you can have with @pthermes shaker motor kit 
This is the follow-up video to one I did with Iron Maiden.
Quoted from V_piscopo:If they did the bulliton fix of running connectors from cn5 in a loop to dmd controller board that plug would no longer be used.
Thanks . So if I see a newer connector on the dmd board, then I know this is the case?
Joined the club today, picked up a project. Will need a good cleaning but seems to be mostly working.
The plastic above the drops is broken, are replacements available anywhere without buying a whole set?
Has anyone LEDed theirs with warm or cool white LEDs? I'll probably do the GI and maybe the inserts (DE/Sega inserts always seem to be dim...), but not sure which color would look better overall.
Quoted from zacaj:Joined the club today, picked up a project. Will need a good cleaning but seems to be mostly working.
The plastic above the drops is broken, are replacements available anywhere without buying a whole set?
Has anyone LEDed theirs with warm or cool white LEDs? I'll probably do the GI and maybe the inserts (DE/Sega inserts always seem to be dim...), but not sure which color would look better overall.
Cool white GI, color match inserts where possible
Quoted from zacaj:Joined the club today, picked up a project. Will need a good cleaning but seems to be mostly working.
The plastic above the drops is broken, are replacements available anywhere without buying a whole set?
Has anyone LEDed theirs with warm or cool white LEDs? I'll probably do the GI and maybe the inserts (DE/Sega inserts always seem to be dim...), but not sure which color would look better overall.
I used ice blues and cyans. Most people will not like it but I do.
20190415_200051 (resized).jpgQuoted from yellowghost:I used ice blues and cyans. Most people will not like it but I do.[quoted image]
Yep, don’t like it 
Quoted from yellowghost:I used ice blues and cyans. Most people will not like it but I do.[quoted image]
Quoted from maffewl:Warm white. Color match inserts.
Quoted from PinRob:Cool white GI, color match inserts where possible
I'm not a fan of color matching in GI or inserts My GI connectors are cooked so I can't throw some in to test yet either
Do either of you with the cool/warm white have any pictures?
Quoted from northerndude:LMAO, ya beat me to it!!!
If your smart, you'll but the previous unobtanium Z "boat plastic" also
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-bright-lights-pinball/02039-baywatch-boat-plastic-z-plastic
Thanks! my boat plastic in intact, but I'll probably order the drop plastic. Has anyone gotten these? Are they good quality? I've gotten a few 'replacement' plastics that look like they were printed on paper and then glued together or stuff like that
Quoted from zacaj:I'm not a fan of color matching in GI or inserts My GI connectors are cooked so I can't throw some in to test yet either
Do either of you with the cool/warm white have any pictures?Thanks! my boat plastic in intact, but I'll probably order the drop plastic. Has anyone gotten these? Are they good quality? I've gotten a few 'replacement' plastics that look like they were printed on paper and then glued together or stuff like that
At least color match the blue inserts!!
Quoted from yellowghost:I used ice blues and cyans. Most people will not like it but I do.[quoted image]
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I also went with natural white GI and color matched inserts, comets. Game looks sharp.
Mine was at TPF for those who attended. She got about 400 plays. Shooter lane switch broke but I was having issues with it anyway. Rebuilt the right flipper afterwards as well, was having issues making the ramp reliably.
Quoted from yellowghost:I used ice blues and cyans. Most people will not like it but I do.
It does give the playfield a "watery" look to it. But I still don't like it.
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