Someone mention on Facebook to check the clock signal with a logic probe or oscipe so I would assume the ribbon falls under those lines.
I have a atx power supply and wanted to test it on bench. I used 18ga wire but those small u shaped hooks for connecting to resistor legs or test points. It melted the crap out of the plastic. Then I put the connector back in and it works fine in game. It has to be that junction im thinking. I will replace male headers on display driver board.

Test the bridge rectifiers. This reset issue happened on mine and it was a bad BR.

Is it just on display driver because it's most sensitive with its 5v?

Hi everyone
I bought my baywatch as a project bad dmd acid damage on boards but rest was good,
Boards fixed new color dmd arrived but now I am having trouble sorting out the power wiring..
PLEASE HELP!
Here are the photos of the butchered job I inherited. Can some please send photos of what it should be
Thx

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Make a new harness. I did.

I just came to get some info on this, the manual (Marco) doesn’t have anything for schematics.

My game came with the stock ps board with a bad 5v so a arcade ps was hacked in. It worked, but I’m reversing it as the ps board was repaired.

The top left plug was cut off and I think I’m missing the 2nd power plug for the dmd? Any help would be great!

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Will look.later

Thanks!

The smaller plug runs to the top left connector on your power supply. Does this help enough for tonight?
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So that is the correct one, ok good. Thank you.

Here are mine when I got it, cut off and missing. I’ll get the molex’s And run new wire.

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Thanks for the help and pics. I need to verify something though otherwise I’ll be confusing myself

So I looked at pics and pin outs of the boards and here is a pic of my cn6 connector
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Does not have a red 5v but does have 5v at a few pins.

However cn5 has a red 5v and a black gnd and looks to be what drives the plug I’m missing, however in continuity tests I also got a beep at the 4 pin molex plug on the dmd board. Here is a pic of what I mean.
C96C6D47-5AFA-49E2-A14B-509B9C33B4B1 (resized).jpeg

So the cn5 red/blk, does it loop back and run both of those plugs?

I just picked up a baywatch and would like to clean the wireforms without removing the plating, any suggestions? I bought brasso but earlier recommendations seemed to point away from that. Thanks.

John

There is not much you can do. As soon as you use anything similar to Brasso you will remove the little brass coating that is left. Re-brassing followed by clear coating is ultimately the only thing to do.

Appreciate the advice. Thank you.

Bump, can anyone with a BW confirm those two plugs use the same 5v/gnd from CN5?

Whose got a Baywatch for sale or trade within 150 miles of Charlotte, NC?

I may also be looking for a baywatch in a month or 2 in or near the PA area

I believe that's cn5 and cn6 hard to tell on my phone and the online manuel.

ya cn6 has 5v, but they are gray. Which should be fine. Mine were cut and wire nutted together. I guess my confusion is, I have 2 plugs on the back of the DMD but want to make sure the 5/gnd come from the 1 cn5 plug and the loop goes to both the plugs. The cn6 plug didn't have red 5v, but I only know what mine looks like...which was hacked up though :/

I should take a pic and draw out what I mean/think should happen

I gotcha. I won't be home till 10.hopefully someone chimes in

Has anyone ever done anything creative with the lower pop bumper ?

Minor thing as its slightly hidden but it has always bugged me that visible bulb and half a plastic I have a yellow condom on the bulb on mine.

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I use the red Comet pop bumper led lights so it's not a naked bulb. I guess it kinda makes it go away as it doesn't bother me as much now.

https://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpdisc.htm

Yeah, I just used a red Led, looks good

Thanks man, can't unsee it now

I used flex head pointing backward towards that plastic.

just joined the BW club and have a couple questions.

One of my lane guides up top looked to be replaced at one time with a red one. Are the fluorescent orange ones available anymore or does anyone have a spare ones eating around?

And my game doesn't have a knocker or ever looked to have one installed anywhere. Is that a thing? did they not come with knockers? the game is going on location and it would be nice to have one.

Thanks in advance!

Knocker-
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-knocker-assembly.html

Search sites for the lane guides, i'm sure theyll pop up

I used a domed colour changer led on mine.

Looking for a good condition 'Ironman' plastic .

Anyone help ?

Thanks

ebay.com link: SEGA BAYWATCH PINBALL MACHINE USED LOT OF RAMP ENTRY PLASTIC SIGN ASSEMBLYS ETC

Yes - have seen those. The shipping to the UK kind of kills it ...nearly $30 shipping Seems a LOT for some small pieces of plastic.

Bay Area had NEW Ironman a little while ago for about $5 ...should have got one.

I might have a x-tra one. I need to look. Shipping would be more than the part itself tho , I reckon.

Alright, so last connector to repin in the back box I hope.

Here is that cn5 that has a 5v red and black blk. I feel like it loops and connects to the two boards on the dmd below. Can anyone verify that? I’ll check the schematic again, but I don’t remember if it said

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Here is J1 on the display controller board

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Here is J7 on the dmd board

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Based upon this service bulletin
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts-blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/sb106.pdf

And the schematics for CN5.

I connected the dmd display board to cn6 via the bulletin, and the display driver board to cn5. Which is only ground and 5v.

Re-pinning the transformer plug and then I can power on and test. Anyone see something wrong with this or a tip? I’d rather not have a fireball

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She’s alive.

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I do have one issue for sure, the lower right flipper is just super flakey. Somestimes it won’t flip, sometimes it drops while button is held. However I looked at the switch stack at the flipper button and the switch looks meh. So I’ll probably rebuild the switches. The flippers were already rebuilt before I bought the game.

My switch right now has a capacitor on it, does the replacement need one? The picture on Marco doesn’t show a cap used.

Marco
detail (resized).jpg
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5122-00

maybe this pbl one will work?
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https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html

I spoke with terry at pbl, and ordered the pbl ones. He said they are the replacements but they are a tad shorter, so they will need to be screwed to the cab in new holes up a little higher.

Thank you to everyone! So glad my game is functioning and it is just little tweaks now. The lower right flipper and the tower lock door is a tad laggy, I think the ramp gate switch isn’t bent tight enough.

Can someone snap a pic of their switch at the tower lock gate? Mine is kinda mangled and is not opening fast enough for the scoop to pop up and get the ball as it goes up the ramp.

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Thank you! I bent mine around some and have it sort of looking like that, it at least is opening the scoop before the ball flies past it now. I may order a new switch as a backup.

Now, cliffy time which looks like a day project, and a shaker motor

So running Chads code ........ what is the highest score you have seen on the Water Ski Video Mode ??

With my tried and tested pattern I usually hit 208 million if I don't screw up somewhere . I think *possibly*...once .... I had 216 or 220 Million but I may have imagined that.

I still don't totally understand the scoring, as there are times when I am sure I have hit less ramps than a run before , or wipeout earlier and yet score more

I think mine is 250M or so, but I usually go through the mode perfectly. I can check that number when I get home. For reference, I've posted a video on how to complete (this is from the original code, but the mode hasn't changed other than scoring).

Ahh - cool. That is pretty much my pattern, except for around the 14 sec point in your vid where I was going far right not middle and missing a ramp out.

Thanks for posting !

I usually get around 69-70 mill, but I havent learned the pattern and I is dumb

Some set-up/behavior questions for everyone...what incline do you have the game set at? I was at 6.5 with my phone in the center of the playfield using a leveling app, but the ramps seemed juuuuuuuust a bit tough and the skill shot didn't always make it through the gate (maybe I need to check the EOS switches too). I lowered it down to like 5.5 and the ramps seem much better and the skill shot makes it through the gate consistently now, but I'm wondering if the game is "slower" this way than it should be? I'm on carpet so hard to tell for sure...

Can't recall what pitch I have mine set for, but it plays fast and the skill shots work. Can take trial and error to get the sweet spot you enjoy but still allowing the ball to make it thru the upper gate on the skill shot.

I have had 2 of them now. I set them both up with all 4 leg levelers all the way up into the leg. Normal sterns I make the back 1" higher then the front. Not for baywatch.

Thanks, that helps get an idea. Are you able to backhand the lock ramp?

I can backhand the lock shot, but I can't backhand it all the way up the ramp.