HA. Wow, look at those trees. Neat
(Topic ID: 33977)
Quoted from jorro:Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey is your playfield missing some colour in front of the shark targets? Looks washed out.
Oviedo, FL
Quoted from northerndude:Don't blink folks, BW just cracked the Pinside Top100 this week. Watch out, people finally recognizing game!
Yeah!
1 week later
I've got my baywatch at my folks house in Cleveland (I live in Arlington, VA) and they just informed me on some issues with the machine. I'm hoping the group can shed some light into what may be going on and how to fix it.
Over the 2-3 months my folks have had the machine, they've noticed that the machine has taken longer and longer to boot up once turned on. The machine apparently takes about a minute for all the lights to turn on, then in 2-3 minutes in the display turns on. They claim it can take upwards of 3-4 minutes before the machine is ready to start a game. If they turn the machine off and back on soon after, the machine won't take as long to boot up.
Now, when the start button is pressed, the music plays as normal, but the ball is not kicked out of the trough into the shooter lane and the display is not going to the skill shot screen. Also, a lot of the lights on the playfield are not on and the U A R D letters (from GUARD) are flashing.
I'm really hoping you can help me diagnose and fix this. Please let me know if this is something obvious, common, or perhaps a known issue on these machines or perhaps inform me as to what tests can be run.
I really appreciate the help!
per3per3 Without a DMM and real diagnosis, I'd initially suspect power supply board... in my case one of the 'common to fail' caps leaked onto the 12v circuit and caused real screwy issues. I opted for new and swap in replacement, because lazy and trace damage in my case.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5047-03
...to confirm, check the voltage at test points on this board and see if they're low when the game is trying to power on. Could be as simple as one of the bridge rectifiers too.
Quoted from mavantix:per3per3 Without a DMM and real diagnosis, I'd initially suspect power supply board... in my case one of the 'common to fail' caps leaked onto the 12v circuit and caused real screwy issues. I opted for new and swap in replacement, because lazy and trace damage in my case.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5047-03
...to confirm, check the voltage at test points on this board and see if they're low when the game is trying to power on. Could be as simple as one of the bridge rectifiers too.
Appreciate the advice. Per Lloyd's (LTG on pinside) recommendation, I called Stern's tech support line as apparently they support Data East and Sega machines as well which is good to know. Definitely seems like a power supply board issue and the tech support strongly believes it's the C2 capacitor. I ordered a power supply rebuild kit and will attempt to rebuild the power supply. Since new boards are available for $100, I figured worst case I can always snag one if this doesn't work.
Quoted from per3per3:I called Stern's tech support line as apparently they support Data East and Sega machines as well which is good to know.
This is excellent to know.
Quoted from maffewl:This is excellent to know.
On the stern tour at expo this year we actually saw and original sega board tester fully functional.
Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code? I just heard about these and didn't even know they existed, sounds like some good updates to make scoring more balanced.
Quoted from bemmett:Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code?
I can burn the chip for you.
Quoted from bemmett:Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code? I just heard about these and didn't even know they existed, sounds like some good updates to make scoring more balanced.
I got em from Matt's Basement Arcade which is on the pinside marketplace.
I've seen the dimensions posted on a wiki, but wanted to know if anybody could confirm the exact dimensions of the backglass? Mine is missing and the translite is all chewed up :/
Quoted from jorro:Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cool idea with the trees. Where did you get those?
EDIT: Nevermind, I found a set of 15 on ebay. Thank you very much for the inspiration.
Fortitude Valley
Quoted from jorro:Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Did you drill holes in your plastics to mount the palms?
Yeah, was just about to ask. There seem to be pegs in the bottom of the trees but I would not want to drill holes. I rather use straps or some tape.
Brighton
Bermuda Triangle
Quoted from BioBa:Did you drill holes in your plastics to mount the palms?
No not in the plastics
I used an knive to flatten the trunk bottom and then with a small drill , drilled a hole (hollowed out) in the trunk then i put the treetrunk on a bolt and turn it till its firmly down like a locknut works
Use a slightly thinner drill then the bolt tread is and if you can use a tool to hold them so you dont drill your fingers 
And offcourse don't palce it where ball travels
On others just used a tiny tiewrap
15417133921821555154540 (resized).jpg1541713505306-1572557091 (resized).jpg15417136011801605123580 (resized).jpg
O and another trick is heating a paperclip and inserting the wire in the bottom of the treetrunk
The rest of the clip bend it so you can attach it under a locknut or screw.
This way you can place 2 trees on one paperclip and make groups of trees.
You can also dismantle the tree and only use the leafs as foliage
1541714513475-460986759 (resized).jpgQuoted from jorro:O and another trick is heating a paperclip and inserting the wire in the bottom of the treetrunk
The rest of the clip bend it so you can attach it under a locknut or screw.
This way you can place 2 trees on one paperclip and make groups of trees.
You can also dismantle the tree and only use the leafs as foliage[quoted image]
Works well on JP
Quoted from Ive:Works well on JP
2m3s00 (resized).jpgI'm not sure what the norm is, but my machine has little pieces of black plastic stapled over the carriage bolt holes (for the backbox) in the side of the cabinet.
I want to put some side blade decals in, but if I ever need to get to the bolt, I'll have to ruin them ... plus it will look very messy with the current solution not being flat and symmetrical.
Are there pre-made plugs one could buy that fit and are fairly flat? Could then just cut around the decal and it'd look fine.
Quoted from rubberducks:Sure, but if I need to get to them, then there is an issue. That was what I was thinking of.
Are the side blade decals actually decals? I was under the impression that they were like side mirrors in that they are applied to a substrate to be screwed in.
I removed the stapled plugs carefully and saved them. Put my side blades on and carefully cut with exacto knife the area where the bolt is. Saved the piece I cut out of the side blade decal and put them back on the bolt when I was done.
601536BA-501E-486A-A6CA-B578F314FEF2 (resized).jpegF9C7ABA2-4438-44F8-ACA7-AEE292F643CD (resized).jpeg
Quoted from jorro:Speaker patches inserted
[quoted image]
Very nice! Are they perforated? Homemade?
Quoted from BioBa:Very nice! Are they perforated? Homemade?
They are real baywatch swimsuit patches, sound passes trough with almost no loss
I just put the volume up a tiny bit
They fit excactly in the plastic insert no glue used just clamp between grill and plastic
Quoted from jorro:They are real baywatch swimsuit patches, sound passes trough with almost no loss
I just put the volume up a tiny bit
They fit excactly in the plastic insert no glue used just clamp between grill and plastic
While I like the idea I can’t see the speakers transmitting very well through those patches. High/mid frequency’s are very directional and those would block the direction of the speakers.
Any chance anyone has a replacement switch for the right ramp exit (part number 180-5031-00)? The switch doesn't work in test or in game and the there's no continuity.
Also potentially need to replace the switch on one of the drop targets as that's not registering either. Everything else in the game works great.
Thanksgiving weekend is my time to give all my games a deep clean and wax. Usually, I can get two games done in a day but Baywatch took me seven and a half hours. It's like a 5000 piece 3D jigsaw puzzle and by far has the most complicated engineering of any game I've owned. This is only my 2nd time disassembling and re-assembling the machine so I've come up with a new approach.
Normally, I'll start at the bottom and work my way up, laying out each piece on a towel in its relative position on the playfield. This time, though, I made two piles - one has the low-level posts and plastics laid out as usual and the second is the ramps and habitrails of the upper layers laid out in the order they were removed. This way, I can get the lower level put back first, then re-assemble the ramps and such in reverse order.
20181124_110931_resized (resized).jpg
20181124_111011_resized (resized).jpg
20181124_113157_resized (resized).jpg
Along with the million or so parts to keep track of, there are 13 connections to reset under the playfield. It went pretty well and there were only a few easy issues to fix once it was re-assembled. I also took the opportunity to add a little color.
20181124_170910_resized (resized).jpg
20181124_110902_resized (resized).jpgIt fixed itself.
I find that shit annoying since it's cut off in the new Chadware anyway (don't know if it was cut before).
Quoted from aerobert:It fixed itself.
I find that shit annoying since it's cut off in the new Chadware anyway (don't know if it was cut before).
It was partially cut off at the end before Chads code also. Don’t know why it does it, Chad would probably know what’s going on.
Quoted from PinRob:It was partially cut off at the end before Chads code also. Don’t know why it does it, Chad would probably know what’s going on.
Don't many Data East / Sega games do it ....? I know my Tommy does, and pretty sure Star Wars does. Someone told me the length of the soundbite relates to how fast your game boots ??
I just wondered why mine had suddenly gone completely 
Quoted from Wharhed:I've seen the dimensions posted on a wiki, but wanted to know if anybody could confirm the exact dimensions of the backglass? Mine is missing and the translite is all chewed up :/
I ended up snagging a nos translate off eBay and found the actual dimensions are 26 3/8” x 19 11/16”.
The pinball wiki appears to be wrong on the glass size. They list 26" x 19-1/4" x 1/8" as size for baywatch and a few other sega titles.
I’d be eternally grateful if someone could find a moment to measure and post the actual dimensions of their glass.
lol played a bit yesterday and the ball drained during CPR mode. Had that stupid song play in the background instead for the whole duration of the game until next credit.
Quoted from Wharhed:I’d be eternally grateful if someone could find a moment to measure and post the actual dimensions of their glass.
I just measured mine, and it's approximately 26 1/2" x 19 3/4". The PinWiki dimensions were wrong. I've reached out to the person who manages that page.
Quoted from gweempose:I just measured mine, and it's approximately 26 1/2" x 19 3/4". The PinWiki dimensions were wrong. I've reached out to the person who manages that page.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Btw - was that with or without the trim installed?
Quoted from Wharhed:Btw - was that with or without the trim installed?
It was with the trim installed, but I tried to measure just the glass as accurately as I could. Unfortunately, I couldn't easily remove the trim because it still had the super sticky factory black tape.
Quoted from gweempose:It was with the trim installed, but I tried to measure just the glass as accurately as I could. Unfortunately, I couldn't easily remove the trim because it still had the super sticky factory black tape.
That works for me. I was just going to deduct the ~1/16" of thickness that the trim adds from the measurements you provided. Thanks again!
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
