(Topic ID: 33977)

Baywatch Club....Members Only!


By dnhayden

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,684 posts
  • 192 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PinRob
  • Topic is favorited by 57 Pinsiders

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There are 2684 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 54.
#2651 24 days ago

HA. Wow, look at those trees. Neat

#2652 24 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey is your playfield missing some colour in front of the shark targets? Looks washed out.

#2653 24 days ago

After a long dry spell, I finally beat my best score...

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#2654 24 days ago

Wow....what a score. I could never score that much. Awesome job.

#2655 23 days ago

Don't blink folks, BW just cracked the Pinside Top100 this week. Watch out, people finally recognizing game!

#2656 23 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Don't blink folks, BW just cracked the Pinside Top100 this week. Watch out, people finally recognizing game!

Yeah!

1 week later
#2657 16 days ago

I've got my baywatch at my folks house in Cleveland (I live in Arlington, VA) and they just informed me on some issues with the machine. I'm hoping the group can shed some light into what may be going on and how to fix it.

Over the 2-3 months my folks have had the machine, they've noticed that the machine has taken longer and longer to boot up once turned on. The machine apparently takes about a minute for all the lights to turn on, then in 2-3 minutes in the display turns on. They claim it can take upwards of 3-4 minutes before the machine is ready to start a game. If they turn the machine off and back on soon after, the machine won't take as long to boot up.

Now, when the start button is pressed, the music plays as normal, but the ball is not kicked out of the trough into the shooter lane and the display is not going to the skill shot screen. Also, a lot of the lights on the playfield are not on and the U A R D letters (from GUARD) are flashing.

I'm really hoping you can help me diagnose and fix this. Please let me know if this is something obvious, common, or perhaps a known issue on these machines or perhaps inform me as to what tests can be run.

I really appreciate the help!

#2658 13 days ago

per3per3 Without a DMM and real diagnosis, I'd initially suspect power supply board... in my case one of the 'common to fail' caps leaked onto the 12v circuit and caused real screwy issues. I opted for new and swap in replacement, because lazy and trace damage in my case.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5047-03

...to confirm, check the voltage at test points on this board and see if they're low when the game is trying to power on. Could be as simple as one of the bridge rectifiers too.

#2659 12 days ago
Quoted from mavantix:

per3per3 Without a DMM and real diagnosis, I'd initially suspect power supply board... in my case one of the 'common to fail' caps leaked onto the 12v circuit and caused real screwy issues. I opted for new and swap in replacement, because lazy and trace damage in my case.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5047-03
...to confirm, check the voltage at test points on this board and see if they're low when the game is trying to power on. Could be as simple as one of the bridge rectifiers too.

Appreciate the advice. Per Lloyd's (LTG on pinside) recommendation, I called Stern's tech support line as apparently they support Data East and Sega machines as well which is good to know. Definitely seems like a power supply board issue and the tech support strongly believes it's the C2 capacitor. I ordered a power supply rebuild kit and will attempt to rebuild the power supply. Since new boards are available for $100, I figured worst case I can always snag one if this doesn't work.

#2660 12 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I called Stern's tech support line as apparently they support Data East and Sega machines as well which is good to know.

This is excellent to know.

#2661 12 days ago
Quoted from maffewl:

This is excellent to know.

On the stern tour at expo this year we actually saw and original sega board tester fully functional.

#2662 12 days ago

Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code? I just heard about these and didn't even know they existed, sounds like some good updates to make scoring more balanced.

#2663 12 days ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code?

I can burn the chip for you.

#2664 11 days ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Anyone know where I can buy some of those 4.01 ROMs with the modified code? I just heard about these and didn't even know they existed, sounds like some good updates to make scoring more balanced.

I got em from Matt's Basement Arcade which is on the pinside marketplace.

#2665 11 days ago

I've seen the dimensions posted on a wiki, but wanted to know if anybody could confirm the exact dimensions of the backglass? Mine is missing and the translite is all chewed up :/

#2666 11 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cool idea with the trees. Where did you get those?
EDIT: Nevermind, I found a set of 15 on ebay. Thank you very much for the inspiration.

#2667 10 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Got my shark, buoy floaty and some trees in
Anyone got some special cool mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you drill holes in your plastics to mount the palms?

#2668 10 days ago

Yeah, was just about to ask. There seem to be pegs in the bottom of the trees but I would not want to drill holes. I rather use straps or some tape.

#2669 10 days ago

Looking for a decent condition Ironman plastic if anyone has one in their spares stash

Maybe a Tourist Season one too ...

#2670 10 days ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Did you drill holes in your plastics to mount the palms?

No not in the plastics
I used an knive to flatten the trunk bottom and then with a small drill , drilled a hole (hollowed out) in the trunk then i put the treetrunk on a bolt and turn it till its firmly down like a locknut works
Use a slightly thinner drill then the bolt tread is and if you can use a tool to hold them so you dont drill your fingers
And offcourse don't palce it where ball travels

On others just used a tiny tiewrap
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#2671 10 days ago

O and another trick is heating a paperclip and inserting the wire in the bottom of the treetrunk
The rest of the clip bend it so you can attach it under a locknut or screw.
This way you can place 2 trees on one paperclip and make groups of trees.

You can also dismantle the tree and only use the leafs as foliage

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#2672 10 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

O and another trick is heating a paperclip and inserting the wire in the bottom of the treetrunk
The rest of the clip bend it so you can attach it under a locknut or screw.
This way you can place 2 trees on one paperclip and make groups of trees.
You can also dismantle the tree and only use the leafs as foliage[quoted image]

Works well on JP

#2673 10 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Works well on JP

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#2674 4 days ago

I'm not sure what the norm is, but my machine has little pieces of black plastic stapled over the carriage bolt holes (for the backbox) in the side of the cabinet.

I want to put some side blade decals in, but if I ever need to get to the bolt, I'll have to ruin them ... plus it will look very messy with the current solution not being flat and symmetrical.

Are there pre-made plugs one could buy that fit and are fairly flat? Could then just cut around the decal and it'd look fine.

#2675 4 days ago

I removed my carriage bolt covers and did not plug the holes. I installed the pin blades and you can't tell there is a hole in the cabinet.

#2676 4 days ago

Sure, but if I need to get to them, then there is an issue. That was what I was thinking of.

#2677 4 days ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Sure, but if I need to get to them, then there is an issue. That was what I was thinking of.

Are the side blade decals actually decals? I was under the impression that they were like side mirrors in that they are applied to a substrate to be screwed in.

#2678 4 days ago

Wouldn't it be as simple as pull the caps off, put the art blades on and then caps back in? Every art blade I ever purchased had the holes precut. What am I missing?

#2679 4 days ago

I removed the stapled plugs carefully and saved them. Put my side blades on and carefully cut with exacto knife the area where the bolt is. Saved the piece I cut out of the side blade decal and put them back on the bolt when I was done.

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#2680 4 days ago

I can understand if someone needs to access the carriage bolts on a regular basis but I don't see a reason why anyone needs to access the bolts unless you were removing the back box.

#2681 3 days ago

Speaker patches inserted

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#2682 2 days ago
Quoted from jorro:

Speaker patches inserted
[quoted image]

Very nice! Are they perforated? Homemade?

#2683 1 day ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Very nice! Are they perforated? Homemade?

They are real baywatch swimsuit patches, sound passes trough with almost no loss
I just put the volume up a tiny bit
They fit excactly in the plastic insert no glue used just clamp between grill and plastic

#2684 1 day ago
Quoted from jorro:

They are real baywatch swimsuit patches, sound passes trough with almost no loss
I just put the volume up a tiny bit
They fit excactly in the plastic insert no glue used just clamp between grill and plastic

While I like the idea I can’t see the speakers transmitting very well through those patches. High/mid frequency’s are very directional and those would block the direction of the speakers.

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