Good advice by sudsy. Definitely check to see if the flipper switch is shorting something else out. Also check the other switches that are activated with the flipper button to see if there are any loose connections or wiring. Make sure all switches and mechs are fully secured and aren't messing with other wiring and whatnot. Have you done any soldering recently and possible have dripped solder onto something? That'll cause issues too.

Check the diodes on all the related switches. Also check for shorts.

I was just about to say the same thing.

If its the right flipper, it also could be something on the "shark fin" flipper

Very easy to short between the flipper button switch and the auto plunge mech diode, had it happen on mine before inspect closely.

I sold the DMD from my Baywatch and mailing it out tomorrow. I'll move Baywatch to the workshop and replace the bridge rectifier causing some soft resets. Then I guess patiently await the X-LED release in April / May.

I lifted the playfield (so it's resting on the prop rod) so the right flipper switch has no chance of touching the shooter lane diode. Pressing the right flipper by itself doesn't do anything. Pressing the shooter lane switch lights up just that switch, but then pressing the right flipper adds that switch PLUS the right slingshot. Visual inspection of wires and diode at the sling looks good. Going to test now. Am I in the right area, or would a different diode be triggering the sling?

EDIT: The other corner of the square in the matrix is the #5 trough switch. That one was closed while the playfield is up. When I moved the ball so that switch isn't closed, the above button sequence doesn't light up the slingshot. With trough switch number 5 active, the sequence triggers the sling.

I would focus on the right flipper switch. If you switch boards from left to right does the problem follow?

Boards? These are double stacked leaf switches on both sides.

For some reason I thought they were opto boards. Sorry!

It would be a bit of a pain, but it might be worth swapping left to right to see if it does anything.

Hi all,

I am working on a project Baywatch. Summary of current issues here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-diagnosing-a-project-baywatch

I am posting here to find out if anyone knows the specs for the Babcock DMD power connector (P1). My connector on the wires does not match the Babock DMD header. Image of DMD here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z1H6O1GN0TDV2jQj1

If anyone knows the part number at Digi-Key or Great Plains, that would be a big help to move forward in my diagnosis.

If there are any other questions you could answer, that would be a big help too. Thanks.

Got my Baywatch yesterday.

Though the cabinet is far from pristine, it is fairly unfaded. It also exhibits much darker blues and more vivid colours than many examples seem to. Some of this is of course down to fade, but a lot of machines appear to have been quite 'milky' and pale looking, according to old photos, new photos of supposedly unfaded but still pale examples, and the look of replacement decals (which are also pretty pale).

It looks far, far better than the pale examples IMO.

Were there two different sets of colour keys used? Maybe the paler ones were decals? My cabinet is direct printed.

Thank you Matt for burning the 4.1 Rom from Chad H and for shipping it out so quickly. Now I just need to donate to the Chad, and how do I do that?

Go here: http://www.pinballcode.com/

Button is there

Thank you for posting The bodacious score cards it was so easy to print out and I can’t wait to put them in my game tonight I will post some pictures later I installed new mirror blades and made my own Led Pin lighting strips and what a difference that made . I also replaced the European coin door with the correct USA one and will install the Sega sonic the hedgehog decal as well that I just had printed..

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That SEGA coin door sticker looks the goods!

Has anybody printed multiples of these and looking to sell one and post internationally?

The coin door decal looks pretty good. What media and what type of printer did you use?

Let's just have Robb hammer off a couple dozen of them and mail them out to us!

The bodacious decals I made myself out of printable paper with a sticky back and then I put a clear decal over the top of it Sonic the hedgehog I just downloaded your decal onto a zip drive and handed it to a printing company I don’t know what she used but she has some expensive equipment.

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I thought the quality looked too good for a home printer - looks as good as an original. Not sure how much she charged you for making that sticker, but you probably wouldn't have too much trouble selling 20 of them if the price was reasonable.

I have a few extras $15 each with free shipping? And for $20 you get both a bodacious scorecard with either Pam or Brooke your choice and a Sonic the HedgeHog Decal..

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I'll take a set please .

Ya I’ll take one with Pam

I would love a set! PM sent!

Me too PM sent! Awesome job

Nice work. I'm in! Pm sent

Great send me a PM touch base with me..And I will send you instructions.. Thanks Robb

PM sent.

Pm sent

Pm sent just in case!

I’m trying just can’t seem to pm Might have to wait till tomorrow

pinrob asked me to post a pic of this board. Which reminds me I need to fix the stand-offs.

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On my shark kickout, the switch does not always register and trigger the kickout about 40% of the time. Usually if I flip the left flipper it will then trigger the switch. All connections are good and I replaced the switch. Any suggestions?

Just because it's a new switch, doesn't mean it's working. Those switches (even new ones) are notorious for performing poorly.

Swap that switch with the one in the VUK (diver trapped). See if the problem follows the switch.

Ok extra saved for you PM me.. Thanks Robb

Also, can you go into switch test and use a ball with your hand to see if it is registering correctly?

Ok I got a $20 paypal payment from Stephen R but he did not leave his instructions in the Paypal Notes. Please reply Stephen R.

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I recieved my two scorecards and the coin door decal today Thank you Robb63 for the awesome work. The best part is the scorecards are peal and stick

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Hello everybody, I joined the great world of pinside today! And I have a question about my Sega Baywatch pinball table: seems that as of yesterday, some switches activate multiple switches simultaneously, ghost switches. Actually all of the switches that show this behaviour are connected via green/yellow cable to CN8-4, Q52; switches: 25, 26, 28, 30, 31 and 32. Slam tilt is one of the ghost switches activated by switch 31. This stops the game. I unplugged / replugged all plugs / cables from the boards, but no joy. Do I need to buy a new CPU board? Baywatch #sega #dataeast #ghostswitch

No, you do not need a new CPU board. Send it out for repair or try to learn to repair it with some advice here. Can you solder well on boards?

I finally got to check out the ColorDMD in Baywatch at MGC this weekend! The thing looks awesome! Eric did an amazing job as usual on the colorization.

Hopefully it will be available soon This will be my first Color DMD purchase

Anyone else peruse around that Baywatch for sale thread?? LMFAO

Yeppers......fun way to kill time and see what everyone is posting

I'm more interested in coming up with ways to fix insert art cracking when they raise slightly. My inserts are not that bad (compared to ad pictures) but eventually I will need to figure out how to fix them for a restoration and I hope it doesn't involve fully reprinting areas. Other than insert cracking my playfield is in top notch shape.

I'm sure you can an answer from someone who restores playfields.
My Baywatch has been shipped to ardvark pinball for Nvram update. I'm having all boards serviced and repaired. My Ciffly protector has shipped this week

I understand if boards are being overhauled but nvram is plug n play on these boards FYI.