Anyone ever powder coat a BW or hook up an external sub ?

I may just go crazy here with this girl .

LION MAN!!!!

I have an external sub connected to it. Pops, slings, and shark scoop are the most pronounced. Definitely worth it. Quite punchy.

I think I'm going to powdercoat mine red. I don't normally powdercoat games, but my legs and siderails are scuffed up pretty bad, so I might as well do something fun!

Why red? Go ocean blue or yellow.

Is there a shaker motor available that's plug n play? It's a bit lacking when going over from TFTC.

My Baywatch is turning heads and it's definitely the most popular game in my small collection. Friends with more expensive Williams titles want to trade but no dice. This one's staying.

There is definitely a surge in Baywatch popularity (and price). People realize its a damn good game. Theme integration is one of the best out there imo.

Yeah - I bought my shaker a year or so back from a guy here on pinside - I love it! - not specifically plug and play - but the instructions were pretty good.

Btw - is it just me or is everyone getting way more “Baywatch will be right back” ball saves on the right out lane with the new code? Seems like 90% Of my drains on the right Outlane are saved!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-shaker-motor-kit-never-had-a-better-day-2

Or just black. I don't think I've seen a BW with color powder coating that I liked. Yellow and red stand out WAY too much to me and you have to get the right shade of blue to look nice. But blue could look really good if you nail the color.

Did you just solder leads from the existing sub (putting your external system in parallel with sub in cab) or did you remove internal sub and use leads solely for external system.

I remember seeing s post about adding subs but can't seem to find it.

I just soldered (or you can use alligator clips) on to the leads of the existing cabinet speaker and wired it to the speaker inputs into the sub. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

A friend of mine is having a flipper-issue with this Baywatch. Both right flippers (up and down) get stuck up as soon as they are used. Shutting the game of makes them fall down. Using the left flipper also make the right flippers go down.
Thats all the info I got right now.

No work has been done on the machine. It has been moved to another room in the house though.

What could cause this?

Intermittent behavior sounds like a failing diode. From http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#flip0

"Flipper Gets Stuck in the Up Position...
Before proceeding with repair, first determine if the stuck flipper is a mechanical or electrical problem. If the flipper is stuck in the "up" position, turn the game off. Does the flipper return to its normal "down" position? If so, the problem is electrical. Otherwise if the flipper stays up even when the game is turned off, then the problem is mechanical.
Electrical: On Deger (Playboy, Monday Night Football) and solidstate flipper games (Robocop and later), check the flipper coil diode. If the flipper coil diode is broken or shorted on, the flipper coil will stay energized after using it. Replace this diode with a new 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode. The counter EMF (Electro-Motive Force) produced by the magnetic field in the coil collapsing is a reverse polarity voltage. This reverse polarity voltage can cause damage to the flipper board. In most cases, it will gate the SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) in the holding voltage circuit, causing the flipper to remain energized as if the player was holding the cabinet flipper button in. This was mentioned in service bulletin number 58."

Yes, there's A LOT of ball saving going on.

Yeah, I was thinking that too. But that would mean a failing diode on both coils, or?

Red was considered . I would like to see that .
I was thinking Coast Gaurd Orange , now that might be over the top but it could look really good .

I have a sub just sitting here just need to connect it

I feel like there is already so much blue on the game. Red just seems like it would complement the playfield and cabinet artwork better.

Yellow!

Excellent combination!

sweden-flag-std_2 (resized).jpg

Pics when it happens ...

This blue/yellow combo looks pretty good. If the blue was a little darker and matched the cabinet better I think I'd really like it.

baywatch powder (resized).jpg

I get a ton of ball saves happening on the right outlane. I mean during league it's a whole joke about how many balls each person plays. Anyone have an idea what is causing this? It's getting kinda ridiculous.

I've only seen ball saves out of the Shark Scoop if it drains within a certain time. I also only see ball saves after the initial launch, it's not very long.

Also not a huge fan of colored armor. I'd stick with black.

Listen (or look) to make sure it's not going into the subway return hole. You will hear it kick out to go back into the trough. I have mine set up at the standard level and a clean drain on the right can have enough force to roll its way up there. Also, if you know about it, you can also give it a bump to help it along to get a ball save. The players in your league may have realized this as well.

I've been noticing a lot of unexpected ball saves as well. Unfortunately, I have very little time on the normal code, so I don't know how it differs from Chad's in this regard.

Interesting. It never even dawned on me that a drained ball could be saved in this way. I'll definitely pay closer attention from now on.

Only changes to Ball Save in 4.01 were:

Start-Of-Ball Ball Save timer was increased from 5 seconds to 7 seconds.
Shark Scoop/Laser Kick Ball Save timer was increased from 2 to 3 seconds.

Thanks for the info, Chad! This makes me think that it really must be the ball hitting the subway switch as maffewl suggested. This seems like a design flaw, and there probably should have been some sort of one-way gate there.

Make sure the game is level from left to right. Mine is actually slightly higher on the left to prevent this.

Just arrived! Protective film still covering it

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Is that NOS? Where did you buy it from?

Doubt NOS, Pinball Center

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/baywatch/4383/topper-for-baywatch

Thanks for the link! Unfortunately, I don't think they ship to the US.

Sorry but I think pinball.centers plastics are total shit. Hope this is better and it works out for you

If anyone needs awesome quality new repro baywatch (or any other SEGA) plastics, just PM me! I can get the complete set!

So what's the verdict @northerndude? Is it a quality repro, or is it "shit"?

I just peeled both sides back a bit and it seems very good, great color, and it’s nice and thick. Quite pleased !

Great to hear! How are you planning on attaching it to the top of the game?

Yes, I do want to try to bother a pi sister or two that does have a topper topper a photo or two how it’s attached, but my first thought is two “L” brackets with 2 screw holes each. Pre drill topper and affix.

You are right, topper is riveted though.
Cheers

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8DDF1985-ACEA-4B67-BA21-FB76B3BD797C (resized).jpeg

Cool, I’ll probable do smaller carriage type bolt with a smooth finish.

yeah their plastic sets suck, wrong color, cheaply made, and don't match. I could see where a topper would be ok, but plastics are horrible. I ordered Robocop and flintstones. don't bother!

THX for the pics!

Anybody on the thread an actual fan of the show? Could use some help identifying where some of the video is sourced from

I just ordered the first 9 seasons, it’ll take a while for me to watch through it but I’ve played the pin enough to know what frames/scenes to look for, for the ColorDMD. Can’t wait for the ColorDMD release!

Are the wireforms supposed to be silver or gold? Mine look silver (chrome) but the pictures of other machines look gold.

Thanks

John

Gold, so likely the finish has worn off or whatever.

They are supposed to be gold. If the person who owned it before you tried to clean them with something like Mothers Mag polish, that takes the gold right off.

Can anybody tell me how to remove the launch ball light socket? My bulb us burnt and I tried twisting and pulling and could not get it off and did not want to risk breaking it.

You need to grasp it tightly and pull gently until in comes out. It is similar to most other cabinet button light sockets.

This. It's not like the twist lock button common in arcades. It sort of "clicks" in. Grab and pull gently, and give it a little wiggle as you pull.