3 foot lengths x 2 running on the GI string may be a little too much power draw.

Inspired by pmoc. Painting the guard shack seemed like a wonderfull idea.

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I'm pretty sure Pin Stadium lights tie directly into the GI string (somebody chime in who has them if that's incorrect).

I was under the impression they are “triggered” by the GI but not powered by the GI

I am also experiencing this lately , with the game saying "baywatch will be right back" during game play and while in attract mode .
I have reseated the power Pin connector at the dmd and it will fix it for awhile .
Any ideas where else to look ?

Comet indicated to me that they sold 20-inch lengths of LED strip lights that hook up directly to 6 volt AC or DC lamp sockets. That's getting closer but still isn't quite long enough to run the entire length of the playfield. The interesting part is that indeed there isn't any special rectification circuitry built into these, so they are running on AC when they are hooked up to a GI socket. I guess they work satisfactorily under those conditions for this purpose, but LEDs are not really designed to do that, and Comet admits that they do have some high-frequency flicker which may bother some people. They intend on building future revisions of these with rectified circuitry. Here's a video that shows the drawbacks of AC on LED strips. If I were to rig this up on one of my machines, I would definitely put a $1 rectifier board on each LED string.

I think Baywatch works nicely with non-GI lighting strips - strips that are always on. The game just has so much flashing and blinking, that I think it's overkill for the stadium lighting to blink off and on with it.

EnerGI Maestro is your solution to this. I'm not a fan of pinstadium style lights. Play with the lights on in the room, or add a spotlight or two. Both simple, cheap, and easy solutions, imo.

I'm not sure what Chad's code does to lighting since I got the LED board prior to the code update, but it seems as though he removed a lot of the flashing.

I've added spotlights and small LED strips - but nothing gives an even, well lit playfield like stadium style. I don't mind the Baywatch flashing like some people do - what it doesn't need is more flashing lights though.

I have just one spotlight on the left sling, with Comet 2SMD natural white lights, Chad's code, and the EnerGI Maestro board, and it looks great to me! The full LED control and relay clicking elimination from the board is 100% worth it.

Or you could just tap into GI power between the x-former and the PS if you don't have EnerGI Maestro. The EnerGI Maestro is awesome BTW!

Great thread. I just ordered the new Roman.

Definitely less G.I. Off/On flashing.

Where can I get a new Roman? Mine are getting old. Lol you will be very happy.

Gotta love spell correct, but yeah my Baywatch makes noodles.

With Chad's code and some tweaking of the settings, I've found the game to be much more fun and challenging. I set it so that every lock must be earned, and I also lowered the drop target timer all the way down to 15 seconds. With these settings, I often have games where I don't even start multiball.

Are you telling me you have disabled the ball locks after draining balls?

If I understand your question right, yes, there are no more "gimme" ball locks. you have to drop the bank of targets to light the locks, then shoot the tower.

Correct. With the way I have it set up, you have to earn every single lock by completing the drop target bank and then nailing the tower shot. This is only possible with Chad's code. With the stock code, it automatically lights the locks for you, whether you have earned them or not.

Thats so cool. I need to try that code someday. Somebody needs to modify the automatic multiball on ball 3 on data east WWE as well.

Yeah, it's really annoying that all the DE games do that. Fortunately, Chad is slowly working his way through the Data East catalog. He's already done Tommy, TFTC, SW, JP and Hook.

Set your machine to tournament rules in the settings and the third free multiball is gone with the dodo.

PIN2DMD-XL
Release for Baywatch!!!
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Maybe I'll try selling my fully working Sega DMD to offset the cost of a sweet color display?

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But no colorization!!!

sweet advertising post! Does your display have all the scenes colored (showing more than 3 colors + black at once) and have a full editor available today?
That whole video looks like a VGA pal applied to the dots, not really a colorization. You also misspelled professional in your #6 point.

I get you wanna push your product and that's fine but don't be so dismissive of the time and work I put into coloring the game and claim your product currently colors this game when it does not. It just applies a palette change which isn't the same thing, that's like putting a piece of red cellophane over a black and white TV and saying its in color.

This method might get rid of the free multiball, but it also forces other changes like de-randomizing the 'Search and Rescue' awards. This is not ideal in a home environment.

I think he was referring to WWF Royal Rumble.

Sorry. I got confused. This being a Baywatch thread and all ... Out of curiosity, does the tournament settings trick to get rid of the freebie multiball work on all DE/Sega games?

Don't know about all of them... but it didn't work in the original Tommy, TFTC, Baywatch, or Jurassic Park.

I have an opportunity to purchase a Baywatch......is there anyone can tell me things I need to inspect before buying?

Thanks

Hmmm...well, if it's dirty and needs a shop job, new rubber and want to replace normal bulbs with LEDs, that's a bit of work doing the tear down. It's fun work, but it does take a bit of time. I guess like any other game, go thru the diagnostics and check for switch and coil errors or issues. Lift the playfield and look for any cracks or breaks in the subway and check the flippers since there are 4 of them and rebuilding all is an expense.

When playing test games, hit both flippers at once a bunch of times during play and see if the game resets or anything like that. The DMD should be bright and crisp, if you see any fade or issues then that's a big expense to replace the DMD.

Hey guys
Is there a (5v?) power supply daughter board that can be attached to the sound board power supply to help my game from saying "Baywatch will be right back" all the time now ???

Thanks.....I will inspect all of that. They are asking 2100.00 . I just wanted to be sure if there was any stuff that has major issues with this pin

This is Spot on
Baywatch is one of the hardest pins to shop and even just replace bulbs .
And definitely make sure the DMD is sharp and clear .
Also make sure the red subway ramp is not cracked at the top .

Also check the plastic above the drop targets, it's typically broken or removed. Also check the drop targets themselves, they typically crack as well.

Can you guys backhand the left ramp (guard tower)? My left flipper is just strong enough to backhand it for a lock, but there is no way I can backhand it hard enough to go all the way up and around. I'm just curious to know if my flipper is weak, or this is normal.

I am the same with mine. I think I made it all the way up the ramp twice in like 6 years backhanding it

I do it on mine all the time, matter of fact I saw my wife do it last night too. Might need a flipper rebuild if you can’t do it easily.

I can't do it on mine either although I can backhand to trap door pretty often. I hear G&R flipper coils make a huge difference but I have not personally upgraded.

I can only backhand a lock but not the ramp. It's a pretty steep ramp to begin with, so i wouldnt expect it to be a makeable shot as a backhand.

Yeah, can backhand locks all day long. Once in a while I can backhand the full ramp shot, but it's not like it flies over the top, just enough ooomph that it will get up and over. Can backhand a ball on the fly though of course since it has enough speed there.

I can backhand the lock without much effort. Backhanding the ramp requires a slight tap to get the ball to roll up the flipper a bit to hit a clean shot.

Cool. So it sounds like most people's flippers are similar to mine. The people who can easily backhand the full ramp shot most likely have recently rebuilt flippers, or possibly even upgraded coils.

My flippers are freshly rebuilt and don't have the power to make a full left ramp backhand. I would also wonder what kind of coil is being used if you can do that.

It also could be that some people's flippers are adjusted differently than others. If your flipper is sitting just a little higher at rest than it's supposed to be, it would make it much easier to backhand the ramp.

"Supposed to be"... Here comes the inevitable "how do you set your flippers" conversation - in line with the lane guides, or the toothpick holes in the playfield. (The answer is obviously toothpick holes. )

Could also be how steep your game is too.

I'm not sure Baywatch has toothpick holes...

Toothpick holes first, then lane guides.

I had to set it at 6.5ish to get my skillshot to work about 75% of the time. I had it at 7.0 and it would not work 100% of the time. Any more shallow and it would start to play floaty.