My brother in law and I always have a chuckle saying its Woodbridge coast guard station ....... which is only funny to us because the inlaws live there and it is nowhere near the ocean . Its the little things in life

Don't know but the show is set and filmed at Santa Monica beach. I think the official name is Santa Monica State Beach. Point beach could be something named in the show. Haven't seen it for 20 years. Did see the new movie though, surprisingly entertaining but stupid. Didn't take itself seriously which is good.

Here is an apron card (loosely based on the 1998 Playboy magazine cover). Print at full scale (5.5x3 inches).

Baywatch Apron.pdf

Nice job on this kit. The only thing I would change is get rid of that wall wart (service outlet is always on even when the machine is off). You could use a DC-DC step-up transformer and clip it to any GI socket (still easily removable for transfer to another game). Also, bring the leadout wires to the back of the machine where they wouldn't be so visible.

Much appreciated!

I want the wall warts so I can move this to another game whenever I want. I also power up my games using a power strip for every two pins. So these turn on and off with the game. With the wires up front I can also quickly and easily disconnect the power plug to remove them from the game when lifting the playfield. I have to conceal the wiring now, this was just play testing.

I thought the GI was AC not DC. This is a good idea if it works except the led strips would strobe which would be super annoying.

I understand what you're saying. Alligator clips can be removed just as easily.

Oh for sure, I use clips on plenty of other lighting mods, like this same kit on Big Hurt. The way this is setup I can remove the kit just by opening the coin door and removing the glass, no need to lift the playfield. Not likely to remove it or move it to another game, but figured what the heck.

Yep, you would need a bridge rectifier and the DC-DC transformer. About $8 worth of parts.

Here's an even better solution for the side lighting. Use 5v LED light strips and then you just need the bridge rectifier to clip to a GI socket for power.

ebay.com link: 5V 5050 60SMD M RGB LED Strip Light Bar TV Back Lighting Kit USB Remote Control

or

ebay.com link: 5V 1M 2M 3M 5M USB 60LED M Cable Power LED Strip Light Tape Warm Cool White

and

ebay.com link: 1N4007 bridge rectifier AC to DC power converter full wave circuit board CB507

I’m hoping for some colorful news from abroad today.

What news is this woman going to tell you?

Perhaps that she's pregnant?

Here's a "dummy" question: How do you clip the rectifier board to a GI socket for power?? I don't ebay but is this the same thing?

https://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Circuit-Converter-Electronic-Teaching/dp/B0756H8SHM/ref=sr_1_7

Thanks!

Nate

Not sure if that's the same thing, but it is a kit and not fully assembled if that matters to you.

I just bought 5 of these. No brainer at $1 each and free shipping.

ebay.com link: itm

Could try one of these - and a harness maybe, very inexpensive at Comet

http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-1-SMD-5050-FLEX-6-3V-QUICK-CONNECT-p/mtx1smdflex.htm

OR this

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/wirepack.htm

Thought I'd try my hand soldering it together.

I'm stoopid. So the quick connect wires would go into the AC "in" portion of the square Plug looking thing on the board with screw-down screws? (I snip off the little white clip so I have two wires).

So the power is coming from a GI socket (where the quick connect wires are hanging out) to the 'lil board............... Thanks guys.

-Nate

Yep, that's the same thing, but like PoMC says, why pay over $9 for one (unassembled) when you could buy one for $1 (assembled). It would be a nice simple project to practice your soldering skills though. Just find a GI lamp socket and clip a wire to each lead as shown in this picture. This one is nice because it has bare wires that daisy-chain to another lamp socket, but you can also clip directly to the lamp socket solder tabs if you like. Just make sure it is GI lamp (not a controlled lamp or flasher). Polarity doesn't matter on the input to the board (it is AC), but it will on the DC output to the LED string.

DSCN2491 (resized).JPG

Sudsy7 Thanks a lot. Learning and I finally got it.

Yep, $1 assembled beats unassembled but I don't ebay so will keep hunting.........of course, I need to rebuild my Meteor first and then start breaking down my Baywatch, oh, also install the new game code, oh and install my new Taxi ROM........... Geeez!!

I use AliExpress all the time, here's one on the site

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-to-DC-power-conversion-module-1N4007-full-bridge-rectifier-filter-12V-1A-AC-DC-converter/32799476390.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.FbmlX8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10547_10342_10325_10546_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10139_10307_10059_10314_10534_100031_10604_10103_10142,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=32919850-c131-44cc-af9a-78506fdc3fe9-0&algo_pvid=32919850-c131-44cc-af9a-78506fdc3fe9&priceBeautifyAB=0

northerndude, thanks for the link!

I'll shoot them some business.

-nate

I'll send you one of mine for the cost of shipping when I get them if you'd like. I don't need 5 of them, but couldn't resist at $1 each. heh

I installed LEDs in all the controlled sockets last night. Kind of a pain in the ass getting the subway off. There must have been at least twenty screws holding that sucker down. I'm very happy with the results, though. The game looks great. As usual, it was a 100% custom job. I simply looked at the various inserts and went with the LED I thought worked best. I used all non-ghosting LEDs from Comet. Most of them were either frosted or clear 1 SMD bulbs, with some flexible ones thrown in here and there. The only thing I'm not sure I'm happy with are the frosted green ones I used for the three lock lights. They are a bit brighter than I would like, but to my knowledge they are the dimmest non-ghosters available. I could go the LED OCD route, but I do not feel this game needs it.

I did some of the GI, but only the stuff that was easy to get to. I don't want to do the rest until I have new rubbers for the game. This will prevent me from having to take the playfield apart twice. I installed cool white frosted 1 SMD bulbs under the slings and inlane plastics, and I also added a spotlight over each sling. This lights up the playfield nicely. One downside to the brighter GI is that there is a distracting reflection of the lower playfield bulbs in the DMD. This probably wouldn't affect most people, but I am 6'3", so I have a higher vantage point.

Here's a couple photos that show the reflection in the DMD I'm talking about ...

P1080079 (resized).JPG
P1080077 (resized).JPG

For any GI that I didn't want to remove PF items, I just did the change from below, took out the screw, changed bulb, put 'er back.

I was able to get to all the insert lights without removing the subway.

How did you get to the ones by the left outlane? Both sockets are completely underneath the subway.

I wonder if your game was modified. All of my GI sockets are soldered and stapled to the playfield.

Well, damn, maybe it wasn't Baywatch I did that then, lol.

Baywatch is the first game I've owned where I couldn't easily access all the GI from underneath the playfield. It also happens to be the first Sega I've owned. I guess this was one way for them to cut costs. It's not that big of a deal, since I have to take off a bunch of stuff anyway when I swap out all the rubber with Titan silicone rings.

As I recall, I was able to rotate the socket from underneath the subway. I will eventually remove that subway though to clean it. Its probably never been removed.

It's not hard to remove. Just a heck of a lot of screws.

The subway is probably the last thing on the pin I have not thoroughly cleaned, The last remaining source of filth to create habitrails on my PF, I should remove and clean asap also.

I took apart everything under my apron last weekend and re-sleeved and repaired a broken diode and cleaned, HOLY was it filthy at the bottom of the ball trough.

Sure, I'll PM you later on - thanks a lot!!

-Nate

Been having this resetting issue with Baywatch. I think it's narrowed down to cold solder joints on a connector(s) because after reseating the connectors on the power board the resets stopped for a handful of games and now have started to happen regularly again when coils are fired, primarily in the pops. I'll report back when I've removed the board and reflowed solder at the connectors. Also will test the BR that's on the board because that can also cause the issue. The game doesn't fully reset, but you see the CPU info appear and hear "Baywatch will be right back" when it happens.

Sometimes the music goes out and only the sound effects and callouts play for a while, which is actually kind of cool. I had a 2.6billion game with the music off and not pressuring me into making shots too fast.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/0DjRwFjWB6FTxYz72

PoMC, I love your custom painted guard tower. Did you do that yourself?

Yup, and it's even missing a piece of the railing and surfboard - need to hot glue it back on. I just used paint markers to color the rails and guard shack just like they actually look in LA.

Here's it before the railing came off.

Baywatch after new white LED srtips (resized).jpg

That’s not CPU info, that’s Display info. It appears that your Display is rebooting. Also, your sound board is rebooting (sound board always says “Baywatch will be right back” upon boot up)

Definately a power stability issue.

Anyone ever done this? From here:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#reset

For additional reliability on games Laser War to Guns N Roses, it is a good idea to solder an 18 gauge wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. These added wires will help prevent future problems with cracked solder joints on the power supply board components.

The same treatment can also be done on the four games that use power supply #520-5047-03 (Maverick, Frankenstein, Baywatch, Batman Forever). But instead solder the 18 gauge wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the four "+" leads of capacitors C11 to C14 (daisy chain the wire). Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitors C11 to C14. This is a less important modification on this power supply, but is still a good idea.

Here is even an easier solution. Straight 6V LED strips in different colours. Simply hook up/solder to GI socket. No bridge rectifier needed. Strips can be cut down to as few as 3 leds.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-bright-lights-pinball/00674-6v-leds-strip-5050

First LED strips I've seen sold for A/C use. Wonder if they flicker? Let us know how they work.

Doesn’t Cometpinball sell led strips too that hook up to the GI?

Just checked and yes the do.

I just got a few in a pack of bulbs i bought, they come with the adapters or the clips.

I use their 5" and 3" LED strips when I need to get white GI light to a dark area. I have a few behind the guard tower to light up the ramps in that corner.

Nice idea, I might try that. I bought 4 of them, accidentally bought 3 of them blue when I only wanted 1 blue and 3 cool white. So now I might need to get creative somehow somewhere. The blue 3 led strip was for my WW

I used one of the blue strips I had for the Speedometer cluster mod I made for Mustang. I had to tape a few layers of copy paper to dim the LEDs down enough, but worked great.

20171121_143743 (resized).jpg

Just did some testing and the BR on the power board needs to be replacement and luckily I bought spares last time I had to replace one. I'll confirm with a multi-meter when I remove the power board. But I can tell by keeping my thumb pressed against the BR and after 15 seconds it's too hot to keep pressing. A working BR will stay cool and not even feel warm.

You're right. They aren't very long though so they wouldn't work for the side lighting along the length of the playfield. It doesn't appear there is any additional circuitry on them (at least from the online pictures). I left a message with them asking why they don't make them in 3-foot lengths.