Baywatch
Sega, 1995Quoted from PinRob:Just played with Chad’s new code. MUCH better. I will have to play more to really get a feel of it. Liked how the game really doesn’t need EnerGI Maestro with the new code. But with that in mind does anyone have both the new code and EnerGI Maestro installed currently?
I have one but not installed. Might not need itbeith the new code.
So I'm new to Sega machines. Is it possible to modify the game to stereo? Or is everything just mono and I can daisy chain a second speaker to the first one, for two mono speakers?
Quoted from aerobert:So I'm new to Sega machines. Is it possible to modify the game to stereo?
I believe Baywatch (as well as other Sega/Data East games) is already stereo.
Quoted from sudsy7:I believe Baywatch (as well as other Sega/Data East games) is already stereo.
Baywatch is stereo.
Quoted from PinRob:Just played with Chad’s new code. MUCH better. I will have to play more to really get a feel of it. Liked how the game really doesn’t need EnerGI Maestro with the new code. But with that in mind does anyone have both the new code and EnerGI Maestro installed currently?
Yes I have both on there. No issues that I've seen at this point.
Quoted from aerobert:Oh I never noticed.
I just assumed all Sega (not DE) are mono. When did they start to cheap out?
I thought Sega was DE...
Yes, they used to be name-wise. Same company of course, but I'm referring to the branded machines, not the company.
There is a breakpoint when they started using mono, and I thought it was when branding the games Sega, but it wasn't that simple.
From Wikipedia:
The BSMT2000 is an audio DSP created by Brian Schmidt for use in various pinball and video games (notably, the Data East pinball games, as well as its successors, Sega Pinball and Stern Pinball and the last Alvin G. pinball games).
The BSMT2000 was first used in 1991's Batman, and 2003's Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines is the last game to use the chip.
Quoted from aerobert:Yes, they used to be name-wise. Same company of course, but I'm referring to the branded machines, not the company.
There is a breakpoint when they started using mono, and I thought it was when branding the games Sega, but it wasn't that simple.
The Sega pins that use the Showcase-style backbox (SST, SWT, X Files etc) shipped with a single backbox speaker, so the game would only output in mono. They’re capable of Stereo with the board set they use, just shipped with a single speaker, hence mono sound in them
I have have bought the rom programmer
ebay.com link: 711 53200 19255 0
and some spare 27C512 chips (28 pin).
I just need some advise on how to progress.
I have followed the Pinballcode.com instructions. Downloaded and extracted the original Baywatch rom and the patch.
It says:
3. Run Lunar IPS, click Apply IPS Patch and follow instructions. I assume I choose BAYWATCH-CPU-401-patch as the patch to apply. Nothing really happens when I do that? The only difference is that there is a heart visible before the file name. Is there anything else I have to do? I can not see any new file being created?
Sorry I have never done this before so not sure how it should be done.
What file do I burn onto the rom? Just the patch?
I would appreciate some help.
Quoted from aerobert:Check the thread back a few pages. Someone posted an excellent youtube video on how to.
Thanks I can't believe I did not see that! Perfect just what I was after.
What's the cost for the set if you don't mind me asking? It's not on his website yet? And what are the two smaller pieces on the right for?
Quoted from FatPanda:What's the cost for the set if you don't mind me asking? It's not on his website yet? And what are the two smaller pieces on the right for?
Also want to order - what was total w/shipping??
-Nate
Quoted from alexanr1:Ordered my Cliffy hole protectors. On their way to me! Anyone else installed them yet?
Wow....just wow. Is there any way to reverse the plating process? I'm no chemistry major (or minor...or chemistry anything.)
Quoted from FatPanda:Wow....just wow. Is there any way to reverse the plating process? I'm no chemistry major (or minor...or chemistry anything.)
He applied too agressive acid (or for too long or both) and damaged the original plating. The surface is like the surface of moon... Then he applied chrome finish.
He said he can't reach smooth surface from now.
Quoted from Davi:Hello guys,
Please help...
Plater did a "great" job on big wireramp...
Is there any chance to buy this type of wireramp? Or any chance to restore the surface?
Thanks!
Try Chris at hotrodarcade.com
He does all kinds of wire forms and an exchange program.
Just joined the club a few days ago. The game is working mostly fine, but the upper control gate seems to be sticking. In test mode it will work fine a couple times and then stick. If I gently touch it with my finger during the test, it will raise. I'm thinking it is either dirty or somehow binding. Do I have to remove all the ramps and plastics in the back right corner of the playfield to get to it?
I'm curious to know how the ball ejects from the shark hole on other people's games. On my game, it shoots out pretty hard and hits right between the two laser kick targets. Is it supposed to do this? It seems like this makes the game too easy because the kickback essentially gets re-lit every time you go in the shark hole.
Quoted from gweempose:I'm curious to know how the ball ejects from the shark hole on other people's games. On my game, it shoots out pretty hard and hits right between the two laser kick targets. Is it supposed to do this? It seems like this makes the game too easy because the kickback essentially gets re-lit every time you go in the shark hole.
Mine is similar. I almost see it as a trick to re-lite the Kickback. But remember, each subsequent re-liting of the Kickback takes more shots so it isn't like every single Shark Scoop shot will re-lite the Kickback.
Quoted from gweempose:Just joined the club a few days ago. The game is working mostly fine, but the upper control gate seems to be sticking. In test mode it will work fine a couple times and then stick. If I gently touch it with my finger during the test, it will raise. I'm thinking it is either dirty or somehow binding. Do I have to remove all the ramps and plastics in the back right corner of the playfield to get to it?
I don't recall the particulars with how to access this coil / gate.
Make sure the arm that pulls the gate open has as much leverage as possible. You definitely want this gate to be responsive.
Quoted from ChadH:I don't recall the particulars with how to access this coil / gate.
Make sure the arm that pulls the gate open has as much leverage as possible. You definitely want this gate to be responsive.
Thanks! I got it working. It turns out you can access the coil from under the playfield. You just have to remove two screws and the whole assembly pops right out through a small hole. It's a very simple mech. There isn't even a plunger. It's just a small coil which causes a hinged lever to come down when activated, which in turn opens the gate. I couldn't see any reason why mine wasn't working, so I reflowed the solder to the coil and diode. It must have been a cold solder joint, because it's working great now.
That's one thing down. Just a couple more to go. The kickback is flaky and weak, and the shooter lane switch doesn't register half the time. These should be easy fixes, and then my game will be fully up and running. 
Quoted from gweempose:The kickback is flaky and weak
Mine too, I’ve never delved into it but if you do find any fixes please post what you find.
Make sure the kickback is aligned properly so it hits the ball dead on.
Merry Christmas to all Baywatchers.
Quoted from gweempose:ust joined the club a few days ago.
Always happy to see new members in here! HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE. HOPE YOU HAVE "NEVER HAD A BETTER DAY."
Quoted from aerobert:Make sure the kickback is aligned properly so it hits the ball dead on.
Thanks! I played around with it for a bit last night, but I actually made it worse. I'll look at it again today when I get a chance. There isn't a lot of wiggle room with the coil/plunger, so I may try tweaking the switch so it activates a little later.
There's a household trick to jazz up the coil, or rather the plunger rod. Rub the rod all over with aluminum foil. It will feel like new.
Aluminum is normally not magnetic but there's other things at play with objects in movement and current called Lenz law.
Quoted from aerobert:There's a household trick to jazz up the coil, or rather the plunger rod. Rub the rod all over with aluminum foil. It will feel like new.
Aluminum is normally not magnetic but there's other things at play with objects in movement and current called Lenz law.
I wish I had read this before I just put the whole thing back together again.
I cleaned the plunger and coil sleeve really well, and slightly changed the alignment. It is working more consistently now, but it's still weaker than I would like. Is it fairly weak like this on most machines, or do some of you have kickbacks that fire the thing out of there like a cannon?
My hardware is kind of beat up, so I'm going to have everything powdercoated (legs, hinges, side rails and lockdown bar). I'm normally very conservative with stuff like this, but I think this game might be begging for something fun. What do you guys think would look best between red, yellow and white?
Quoted from gweempose:I wish I had read this before I just put the whole thing back together again.
I cleaned the plunger and coil sleeve really well, and slightly changed the alignment. It is working more consistently now, but it's still weaker than I would like. Is it fairly weak like this on most machines, or do some of you have kickbacks that fire the thing out of there like a cannon?
Mine fires it out weakly too. I kind of think it isn’t a cannon speed type of kickback. Any others want to chime in on kick out strength?
Quoted from gweempose:My hardware is kind of beat up, so I'm going to have everything powdercoated (legs, hinges, side rails and lockdown bar). I'm normally very conservative with stuff like this, but I think this game might be begging for something fun. What do you guys think would look best between red, yellow and white?
Are you going to use a combination of all three colors? Could look cool...
I personally tried to make the wireforms dissappear on my game and went with blue. I think it helped them to not be so in your face.
Quoted from Whysnow:Are you going to use a combination of all three colors? Could look cool...
No. I plan on going all red, all yellow, or all white. I'm leaning towards red.
Quoted from Whysnow:I personally tried to make the wireforms dissappear on my game and went with blue. I think it helped them to not be so in your face.
I wasn't planing on doing anything with the wireforms. They are in pretty good shape, and I like the brass look.
Quoted from gweempose:I wish I had read this before I just put the whole thing back together again.
I cleaned the plunger and coil sleeve really well, and slightly changed the alignment. It is working more consistently now, but it's still weaker than I would like. Is it fairly weak like this on most machines, or do some of you have kickbacks that fire the thing out of there like a cannon?
Mine isnt too powerfull either. Sometimes it will launch the ball into the drop targets but mostly arcs the ball into the right outlane area.
Two questions ..hopefully somebody can help with. First is which display rom do I need to change ? One on left,right or both...
And anybody know where the flashers on the plastic box in the back get they're power from? Never did work. Check for loose wires on the connectors and the other flashlamps on that circuit.
Thanks
Quoted from gweempose:That's one thing down. Just a couple more to go. The kickback is flaky and weak, and the shooter lane switch doesn't register half the time. These should be easy fixes, and then my game will be fully up and running.
Replace the shooter lane switch for sure. Had to do that on both my BWs. Also want to make sure all the trough switch arms are straight and registering properly.
Quoted from gweempose:I wasn't planing on doing anything with the wireforms. They are in pretty good shape, and I like the brass look
Good call. Any color other than brass looks pretty bad and a color actually draws your eyes to the wire forms and doesn't make them disappear at all.
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