It's about time!

Chad, could we insert code that allows a player to opt-out of having the automatic shark flip? That drives me nuts when I have a good game going and it automatically makes a bad shot and drains.

(Noting that I may be the only one who wants this).

Ask and ye shall receive! (well, sometimes anyways...)

Here's what I came up with. To disable the automatic shark flipper, just set Adjustment 50 (Shark Flipper Control) to 99. Game plays the same except it will no longer automatically shark flip... and you can still manually flip in instances where automatic flip would have occurred to receive those bonuses. I'm hoping most people don't set their game this way as there is some charm to automatic shark flip, but I understand how it might frustrate some players.

Chad, does the shark flip logic need to be adjusted?

I had always assumed it worked like TAF thing flip, where it adjusts over time when you set the game up and tell it to. It learns that it misses the shot and then adjusts by trail and error till it hits at a higher percentage. After it hits for a while then it tends to be good (better than most players).

Does BW work the same way.

As far as I was aware the Thing flips was patented and such so it couldn't really be "copied", so Baywatch just tries to get lucky with the shot.

if that is the case then the ability for the operator to just set a flip time post switch (opto I think?) would be nice. After I set up the game I could then play with that setting till most of the balls make the hole shot.

You can adjust it manually with Adjustment 50 (Shark Flipper Control) to try to make it more accurate for your game. It does not automatically adjust over time like the the Bally games.

what does each adjustment level represent in adjustment 50?

1 msec?
2 msec?
?

Adjustment 50 can be set between 0 and 99. (But now 99 will mean Disable). Default is 0. Hard to say exactly the time difference (milliseconds) between each setting.

You can play with this by going into Service Mode. Then go into DIAG, the scroll all the way to the right and go into BAY. This will bring up the Shark Flipper Control adjustment and will also allow you to play with the switch and see how the ball/flipper behaves over and over as you make changes to this setting. The ball will automatically eject from the Shark Scoop as you are testing in this mode.

This also neuters shark award #3 then (except you get 30M), correct?

Yeah man. I think tidal wave mode would mess with any other mode if you had it stacked . Unless tidal wave could be changed to be like the mode in theatre of magic which you need to hit the jet bumpers x times to complete.
I guess I would be happy just to be able to collect letters and sharks while modes are in progress

The only thing that happens when you disable the automatic shark flip is the automatic flipping is disabled. All other functionality remains. If you light shark flip via the 5 shark targets then you can get the shark flip award still, it’s just that you manually are doing the flipping. Likewise Shark Award 3 where shark flip is now lit for the next 60 seconds (no longer till end of ball) will give you the shark flip bonus for that shark switch to shark scoop shot, but again, you are controlling the flipper.

Is it still going good to say "shark's got a mind of its own" when I miss? (so I can blame it on that bastard even if it's not his fault )

Yep! Although, I am tempted to change it in this instance to the female laughing voice call.

I always hit the scoop on that mode, hold upper flipper up ...it's a pretty big target. There is a little bit of risk when the ball comes back out of the scoop but can usually get it quickly under control on right flipper, rinse repeat.

Can't wait to play the new code Chad !

I'm excited for all these code changes, great job! Do you plan on adding any additional shaker support (mainly only feel it while ball in pop bumpers)?

So my shooter lane switch keeps dying on me. I've replaced it 3 times now and each time (literally brand new switch and diode assembly from Pinball Life) it works for about a week or 2 and then it will suddenly stop registering again. Doesn't work in game or in test, all soldering looks good at connections, connector seems fine.....anyone got suggestions on what could be causing it?

Last night it actually happened while I was playing the game at my location, working fine for several games, started another one and it didn't register on ball one (it is easy to tell when it stops because the trough upkicker will fire a second time thinking it has failed to put ball in the shooter lane since the switch didn't register), immediately stopped game, took off glass inspected and checked in test mode. I just don't get whats happening.

I think there is a bad batch of these microswitches out there and you got one of them. I bought one from Marco and the exact same thing happened to me... worked fine for a couple days then just stopped working. It didn't even make the click anymore that micoroswitches are supposed to make. I wrote them back and they sent me a replacement which has been working fine. I'd recommend reaching out to Pinball Life.

Yeah that is exactly it the click isn't working on any of them! Perfect, good to know. Thank you.

The struggle to I’ve had is with the Shark Scoop microswitch. The switch works, it just seems to be very picky with its proper adjustment. Just when I think I have it perfect, the ball drops in the scoop and doesn’t register and I have to wait for ball search to kick in. Has anyone else struggled with this switch?

that thing sucks! drove me nuts also. I thought about replacing with a single lever type (I think it is the forked type?)

Yep. It looks like this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5116-01

When the ball drops into the Shark Scoop, it sits in a hole. It almost seems like the ball should sit down lower in the hole (which would mean the hole would have to be slightly bigger) so it can press down more on the switch.

chad H &group:. Don't know how easy it would be to change or if anybody would want it changed but...... What about when ball saver is running outlane switches trigger ball save as opposed to outhole? Maybe my machine differs but it seems like it takes a whole second or more from the time my ball hits the right outlane till it finally drains in the outhole right as my ball save light shutting off. Or maybe I should just suck less.

I thought about replacing with one shaped more like this...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-15

That would allow it to still stay out of the way of the VUK kicker but have more movement from the ball sitting on it

If the Ball Save timer is active when the ball hits the Outlane switch then the Ball Save timer gets reset to its maximum. Because of this, there should never be an instance where Ball Save is active when that Outlane switch is activated and then runs out before the ball reaches the Outhole. The only way this should be possible is if that Outlane switch is not working properly.

I am just now getting into coding and have learned a bit of Python, sql, and php. Man, I would love to have your skills Chad, and mess around in these machines.

Def going to check that switch tonight. Thx for the heads up.

All my VUK switches have this type of wire loop actuator (without the clear plastic encapsulating the wire loop - just the wire loop only) and they are very reliable.

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Does anyone sell that kind still?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=197

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http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/stern-sega-data-east-switch-180-5116-00.html

Looks like you could make these pretty easily by spot-welding (or epoxy attachment) of a wire loop onto a normal short blade actuator.

From the post above it looks like the yoke type were an upgrade from the loop type. When I bought my machine, I found 2 of the yoke type in an old plastic bag in the coinbox. Not sure if they were removed in favor of the loop type, or if they were just spares. I do know the loop types have worked great in my game (after I adjusted them a bit).

so happy to finally join!

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I just picked up a baywatch a few days ago. Just getting everything working pretty much now. I am waiting on a few parts and leds to shop it out but it plays pretty good as is. There is a light board with 2 bulbs underneath the Lite Lock that does not work. I tried reflowing the solder and still does not work. Has anybody parted out a baywatch and have one of these? Its part #520-5114-02

The traces are probably bad. I would just scratch off the green film and re-solder the traces, or just add wire.

I never tried this before, which method would be better?

wire isnt as pretty but works great

I'd start with removing the green film at the traces and re-soldering. If that doesn't work, add wire. As Malenko said, it's not going to look pretty, but if you are chucking the board, it at least makes use of it. Also keeps you from having to buy a new one.

I had resoldered the pins before I posted and did not work but then I scratched off the green film near the pins and made sure solder was touching and it works now.

Yeah. Next time. Try reflowing the header pins before scratching anything off and adding jumper wire.

Don’t you dare sell it in 2 weeks. You will miss Pam.

Haha..I would love to say I'll be keeping it forever...but...who am I kidding you guys know me.

Isn’t this already for sale on Craigslist?

I cant ever sell you a game if you dump the hoff so quickly

Baywatchers never forget...

Yep, stern decided to kick me in the face with a theme that my 7 year old (and rest of my household, to be frank) are in love with. I'm not going to pretend I'm not into it either.

I'm not dumping him, we're just taking a break while I make my son happy.

It is time to make room for a few more pins. Seriously...

I too would like to kick you in the face, me and the Hoff are extremely disappointed in you. And after searching so hard............

Would it help on the level of face-kicking if I told you this decision was mainly made for my 7 year old son?

It would lesson the blow.

I am replacing the loop switch with this switch in my scoop. Do I have to put the diode on it like on the original? There is not any holes on the metal tabs.

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Yes. Diode required.