(Topic ID: 269228)

Baywatch Ball Trough Issues


By dearliza98

13 days ago



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  • 28 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by grantopia
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#1 13 days ago

Hi all. Wondering if someone mind lend some advice on an issue I'm trying to track down with my Sega Baywatch. I'm having a problem with my ball trough switches or something connected. Often, during games, the most recent ball that drains will not register the rollover switch and it goes into ball search mode. Switch test reveals some wild info. Says switch 5 has a problem and then 1 and sometimes the rest of them.

I have manually tested the switches and they each work. I removed the green wires to them and tested each diode and all of those readings appear correct. 0.55-0.57 for each of them and 0 when reversed.

I've had some assistance in the Pinside messages and it sounds like I need to check all of the other switches on this row/column. Should I be looking on the CPU as well? I've read that Q54 transistor could be the culprit but I'm not sure how to test Q54, if so.

Any additional ideas would be helpful. Thank you.

#2 13 days ago

If the switches are working I would start easy and check the trough for physical issues. It was a very common issue for DE and subsequently Sega troughs to have issues with those switches needing constant adjustment to activate consistently and balls getting physically hung up in the trough and not rolling properly to trigger the switch. I would mess around manually with the coin door open and drain some balls in switch test and watch the behavior in the trough and see if there is anything you notice.

#3 13 days ago
Quoted from grantopia:

If the switches are working I would start easy and check the trough for physical issues. It was a very common issue for DE and subsequently Sega troughs to have issues with those switches needing constant adjustment to activate consistently and balls getting physically hung up in the trough and not rolling properly to trigger the switch. I would mess around manually with the coin door open and drain some balls in switch test and watch the behavior in the trough and see if there is anything you notice.

Yeah, physically check each solder joint, then also make sure the balls when they drain are actually making the switch actuate. On my metallica replacement playfield, the trough switch would not register and had to be adjusted.....30 times so it registers a drained ball.

so next time the ball drains and the game does not register, open the coin door and see if you can visually see or use a stick to see if the ball actually made the switch register.

#4 13 days ago

Ok I'll try all of these things. Yes, the switch is actuated when the balls are sitting in the trough. Sometimes it works correctly. Sometimes it doesn't. I can't figure out the difference thus far. I have adjusted the switch several times but maybe I need to keep at it. Also, here is a quick video of what I'm experiencing. Thank you for the help! grantopia northvibe

#5 13 days ago

Take all the balls out and go into switch test. Gently drain one at a time and see what happens and if the switches are registering with each ball and you will be able to see if a ball is hung up in the trough or a switch has a ball on it but there is not enough pressure to activate it.

#6 13 days ago

grantopia that was helpful. Balls removed, switch 5,4,3 and 2 all register the switch and then say “none” in test mode. However, switch 1 (closest to drain) registers the switch and then never stops unless I un-press the switch. It’s like it continuously is sending a signal even when the ball is resting on it.

#7 12 days ago

If a ball is in the trough on a switch, it should say closed and register. If it is saying closed then opening back up, even if it is physically closed, there is something going on.

Do you have the manual w/ switch matrix? Could be a bad solder/joint, bad switch, etc.

#8 12 days ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

grantopia that was helpful. Balls removed, switch 5,4,3 and 2 all register the switch and then say “none” in test mode. However, switch 1 (closest to drain) registers the switch and then never stops unless I un-press the switch. It’s like it continuously is sending a signal even when the ball is resting on it.

That seems like the likely suspect. My guess is the switch closest to the drain isn't registering that a ball has hit it and closed it since it never reopened. I would swap that switch out for a new one. To try and confirm you could start a game and plunge one ball and then press switch 5 open, then drain the ball to see if it registers. Sounds like just a bad switch or adjustment needed.

#9 12 days ago

Sounds good. I’ve purchased new switches and diodes and we will see how that goes once they arrive. Thank you all and I’ll report back with my findings.

#10 12 days ago

grantopia northvibe hey guys. Put a new switch in and it’s doing the same thing so I’m ruling out ball trough switch 1 being the issue. I’m moving on to other diodes in the switch row and I’m getting some weird readings on the ball launch diode which is in the same row (and something I’ve messed with recently). It’s not measuring like the other diodes do. Do you think I’m on the right track?

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#11 11 days ago

You installed a new switch and it's also sticking down?

#12 11 days ago

grantopia Yes. Brand new roller switch and same issue on ball trough 1. I have new diodes on the way.

Edit: I should clarify... the issue is that when the balls are sitting on the switches, switch 1 is showing it’s still open (or closed?) and the other 4 are normal. It registers the ball is there and then never stops like the others do when in switch test mode.

#13 11 days ago

What happens if you manually activate it?

#14 11 days ago

grantopia same thing. If I remove the balls and manually press each switch in test mode, it registers all 5 but switch 1 just keeps going (nonstop beeping in test mode) when the others do a quick check (quick beep) and then “none” which I assume means they are good.

#15 11 days ago

Update: the s(h)ark switch is also doing the same thing and it’s in the same row. The other switches in the row seem to be alright. However, do you know what “4th coin slot” is? Someone added a credit button to the coin door and it looks disabled.

#16 10 days ago

That may be for overseas dollar coins or something.

#17 10 days ago

Can you clarify what the issue is? It sounded like initially the trough switches weren't registering and one was physically stuck. You swapped that and the new switch is also physically sticking close and now it sounds like the shark switch is physically sticking closed also?

Not trying to be annoying we just need to figure out what is happening with the game to diagnose.

#18 9 days ago

grantopia northvibe Yes, great question. Apologies I've done a terrible job explaining this and I'm having a hard time describing clearly. Here's what I'm seeing.

When I go into switch test mode (all 5 balls removed), I manually press each trough switch. Switches 2-5 show normal behavior. I press the switch down and it registers the switch and stops. When I do the same thing with switch 1, it registers the switch and never stops. It just keeps flashing/buzzing.

I looked at the switch matrix and began testing the other switches on that row and column. I discovered that the same issue was happening with the s(H)ark switch on the same row. The others tested normally.

What's weird is that the game SOMETIMES plays normally and other times it gets confused because if the ball trough switch isn't operating correctly, it thinks a ball is missing. Sometimes it spits out 2 balls at launch, etc.

#19 9 days ago

Ok that helps. So the switch isn't physically stuck it sounds like. There are a few things I would try...

If you have your meter, hook up to those switches on continuity and see if you get the same reading as the other trough switches when you close it. You should get one continuous tone.

You said you swapped the trough switch and still had the same problem? Did you reuse the same diode? I would double check all the diodes and wiring on the switches in the row for correct orientation.

#20 8 days ago

grantopia Yes. New switch. new diode. Same thing happening. All other switches function normally.

However... I found something interesting in my quest today. The Ball Launch switch is on that same row. And it was acting funny. I replaced that switch (not the bulb attachment), replaced that diode... same problem BUT if I remove the light bulb... everything works. Game plays 100%.

So there has to be a short somewhere or something wired incorrectly with the ball launch lamp, right? Would you be willing to send me a photo to show me how it should be wired if you are able? I can't find a photo online anywhere. Someone has hacked this thing. Here's what mine looks like.

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#21 8 days ago

I have a extra manual at my office but here is how it should be wired for those switches

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2848/Baywatch_Manual.pdf
Page 38

Also make sure the switch is the right part number. if it is not it could have different characteristics.

You can use a DMM in continuity tests to see if you get continuity at a switch leg, to another switch on the row/column and then even at the plug in the backbox

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I hope someone can verify that shooter lane button, it doesn't seem like the led is wired right?

#22 8 days ago

northvibe thanks. My manual will actually deliver tomorrow (hopefully). Really curious to see how the launch button wiring should be and how the bulb/lamp attached to it bc I’m hoping that’s the issue since when I remove the light bulb everything works correctly.

#23 8 days ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

northvibe thanks. My manual will actually deliver tomorrow (hopefully). Really curious to see how the launch button wiring should be and how the bulb/lamp attached to it bc I’m hoping that’s the issue since when I remove the light bulb everything works correctly.

I sold my BW a few weeks ago :/ so I can't help a ton beyond the manual. I think the start button has a light, check that wiring, it should be similar to your shoot button. I just checked my lotr start button and ya the light is two wires, not jumped like that...

#24 8 days ago

northvibe Thank you! I’m such an idiot. I should have looked at the start button wiring the whole time. Someone had hacked the wiring on the launch button and the diode was missing from the cabinet to the switch. I replaced the diode and removed the hack and we are in business! Thanks guys! grantopia

#25 8 days ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

northvibe Thank you! I’m such an idiot. I should have looked at the start button wiring the whole time. Someone had hacked the wiring on the launch button and the diode was missing from the cabinet to the switch. I replaced the diode and removed the hack and we are in business! Thanks guys! grantopia

WOOT WOOT! go save some lives!

#26 8 days ago

Told you it was a diode, lol. Glad you got it fixed.

#27 8 days ago

grantopia You were right all along! Feels good to finally have this game working correctly. Thank you for the help.

#28 8 days ago
Quoted from dearliza98:

grantopia You were right all along! Feels good to finally have this game working correctly. Thank you for the help.

Hey no problem, team effort on this one, glad you are sorted out!

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