You are probably not installing the remote leads in the correct order. Anyone got a pic for Don?

Check for 4.5 vdc on the blocking diode. You can pull the board and phsically follow the traces so you know what position.

Have you considered installing a NVRAM ? I have one in my GNR and Checkpoint. No soldering required. Just install memory chip. Works great.

+4 I put one in my DE Simpsons and Twister that I currently have and one in Baywatch and Monopoly that I had recently sold. No more batteries to worry about in my lifetime. Easy installation for DE and Sega games.

I looked at the pictures you posted and they look correct. You didn't post a picture of the remote battery holder you are trying to use, but I assume from your picture that one end of your remote battery holder "plugs in" to the existing board mounted battery holder. My home made versions do the same thing, so I think the picture I post will help you. You can see that the + connection is made at the right edge of the bottom dowl in the picture, and the - connection is made at the right edge of the top dowl in the picture. The top spot in the battery holder goes unused.Data East remote battery holder installed.JPG

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/battery-connectors-holders.html

There is a cheaper version of it too that is for more modern machines. That one above also goes into older Bally machines. You have to configure it for the game it is being put into.

This is from another maker, which I had loaded into 8 machines already.
ebay.com link: Pinball Battery Eliminator NVRAM Williams Data East Stern 6264 RAM Adapter
A bit more involved for WPC and System 11 games, where soldering is required.

Those NVRAMs sure are nice. But since I made myself a batch of remote holders at a cost of less than $1 per holder years ago, and they work with any pin that takes AA batteries, I think I'll stick with what I have. Battery holder, wire, 2 pieces of dowel a bit shorter than a AA battery, 2 screws and a pair of spade connectors if you wish (or solder the wire to the screws). Even less if you remove the existing battery holder from the board and solder the wires to the board. That savings adds up when you outfit many pins with remote battery holders.

I designed and built this (generic) external battery box for my DE LW3 game
last autumn at more or less no cost at all.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-leathal-weapon-3-lw3-missing-chip
(Battery box build images is a few posts down)

I learnt that there are a few things to keep in mind when doing this mod.

1. The battery boxes one buy are pretty cheaply made, so some minor adjustments
may need to be done to get a snug fit of the batterys and the right (4.5v or so) voltage out.
Use a multimeter to measure!

2. The polarity of the current from the external battery box of course need to match the polarity
points on the soldered battery box. Use a multimeter to measure!

3. Pay attention to the soldering points of the original battery box. How is the serial current routed
to the main board. Use a multimeter to measure what soldering points give the 4.5v while batteries
seated in original battery box. Different manufacturers have different solutions.

At first I did not pay any real attention to point 3 in my mod, (and it resulted in memory loss since
I only outed approximately 3v). I found that the DE pins (always? help me out here guys) use the
two lower right soldering points of the battery box to lead the current on to the main board. And the
other manufacturers uses a other set of soldering points to to the job.

Thanx for reading
/mima

_{Post edited by mima : cross thread linking did not work as I thought it would}