(Topic ID: 215411)

Battery leaked? Pic inside


By Wiggy

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by brainmegaphone
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    j208 (resized).png
    Battery leaked Pic inside  Pinside Forum - Microsoft Internet Explorer provide_2018-04-26_07-35-12 (resized).png
    DSC_0731 (resized).JPG
    DSC_0730 (resized).JPG
    DSC_0725 (resized).JPG
    battery (resized).jpg

    #1 1 year ago

    Is this "green stuff" caused by leaking batteries?
    The batteries that was inside now had not leaked, but maybe its an old damage.

    battery (resized).jpg

    #2 1 year ago

    Yup. Time to replace the holder.

    #3 1 year ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Yup. Time to replace the holder.

    You think its possible to clean it up? Got some alkaline on both sides, not much.. But I guess its tricky to clean without atleast removing it.

    #4 1 year ago

    I wouldn't bother. You can get holders for under a buck.

    Or, consider NVRAM and never worry about batteries again.

    #5 1 year ago

    Under a buck? Thats cheap. A-15814 costs like 10 bucks here in Sweden.
    If I trusted my soldering if would definitely go with NVRAM.

    #6 1 year ago

    https://nvram.weebly.com/
    barakandl sells them You may not have to solder at all if your chip is already socketed. Is this for your World Cup Soccer?

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    https://nvram.weebly.com/
    barakandl sells them You may not have to solder at all if your chip is already socketed. Is this for your World Cup Soccer?

    Its for another WPC-S game, TS, so its sadly not socketed.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wiggy:

    Under a buck? Thats cheap. A-15814 costs like 10 bucks here in Sweden.

    If you go with the holder specific for the board, sure--that's about what it costs.

    If you get an after market holder to use as a remote battery holder and mount it somewhere else, then it's that cheap.

    #9 1 year ago

    If you have anyone local you can bring or ship it to — paying someone to solder NVRAM in is still cheaper than paying to repair or replace it later...

    #10 1 year ago

    I'd go with NVRAM

    #11 1 year ago

    I’d go with nvram, but if you had to...unplug it, splash some vinegar on it and scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

    #12 1 year ago

    Nvram installed in all my games. I will never use batteries again after I had one leak on a system 11 board that ended up costing me the price of a new board to repair. Send board off to a trusted board guy and have nvram installed. You will never look back

    #13 1 year ago

    With that amount of battery corrosion on the holder, I normally see the MPU damaged as well. The fumes spray like a skunk and go everywhere the wind takes it. Please post a picture of the MPU. The 6264 NVRAM Adapter is for Stern, Sega, Data East, WPC/-S/95.

    Before I volunteer to add NVRAM for you, I would want to see a picture showing there isn't any damage to the MPU and include the wiring as it is unplugged at the bottom of the board.

    #14 1 year ago

    Took some pictures
    DSC_0725 (resized).JPG
    DSC_0730 (resized).JPG
    DSC_0731 (resized).JPG

    #15 1 year ago

    Any thoughts?

    #16 1 year ago

    actually on that style of black battery holder, you can sand the contacts and clean it up. Personally though, i would move to either a coin battery or nvram or remote AA mount.

    #17 1 year ago

    That part of the board seems to look good. Can you snap another one above the battery board? Fumes can go up for down while the liquid leakage would drip down.

    #18 1 year ago

    Seems the J205 and J212 need more checking. After zooming up on them, looks like there are some corroded pins. The orange circled pin looks suspect, but that could just be angle of the picture. Battery leaked Pic inside Pinside Forum - Microsoft Internet Explorer provide_2018-04-26_07-35-12 (resized).png

    #19 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Seems the J205 and J212 need more checking. After zooming up on them, looks like there are some corroded pins. The orange circled pin looks suspect, but that could just be angle of the picture.

    That was my first thought also. I've only had to deal with 3 WPC boards that had battery damage so not a pro at it but would replace all the connectors just to be sure. Nvram or coin cell is the only way to go once repaired.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from arcademojo:

    That was my first thought also. I've only had to deal with 3 WPC boards that had battery damage so not a pro at it but would replace all the connectors just to be sure. Nvram or coin cell is the only way to go once repaired.

    I'm am agreeing that I would replaced all the connectors, as J208 definitely is corroded now that I zoomed on that part of the board and J206 and J207 has some suspect pins as well.

    j208 (resized).png

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Can you snap another one above the battery board? Fumes can go up for down while the liquid leakage would drip down.

    Didnt know I had to worry about fumes aswell. Should I check all boards for corrosion, or just the area around the holder?
    Can take more pictures this weekend. The game is in storage at my parents place at the moment.

    About the pins, I also thought some of them looked corroded.
    But how come I'm not having any issues with the game? Everything works right now as far as I'v noticed.
    Is it just a question of WHEN (not IF) I will get problems caused by this leak?

    Will try and clean the battey holder, and if that doesnt work out I will replace it with a remote holder that I had laying around.
    But what about the pins. Clean with vinager and alcohol also? And then crimp new connectors?

    Thanks for all the replies.

    #22 1 year ago

    Vinager doesn’t totally get rid of the acid. It will come back. You can’t get any acid that is under the connectors cleaned unless you take them out. If you’re taking them out just replace them. You might not have problems now but in a couple years you’ will.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from arcademojo:

    Vinager doesn’t totally get rid of the acid. It will come back. You can’t get any acid that is under the connectors cleaned unless you take them out. If you’re taking them out just replace them. You might not have problems now but in a couple years you’ will.

    Just to verify, you mean I should replace not only the connectors but the header pins aswell?

    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wiggy:

    Just to verify, you mean I should replace not only the connectors but the header pins aswell?

    Yes, definitely replace both to avoid problems in the future. You can clearly see oxidation on the pins.

    #25 1 year ago

    Okey, I will do that. Guess I should upgrade to molex connectors while im at it.

    These are .156 size headers, right?
    So I need .156 male headers, .156 trifurcons and the right size molex connectors. Anything else?

    Are these tough to remove from the board, can I damage something easily?

    #26 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wiggy:

    Are these tough to remove from the board, can I damage something easily?

    You just have to be really careful about lifting traces and through holes when you desolder. It's really easy to overheat the joints (or underheat) and pull something off you're not supposed to.

    TerryB wrote an excellent guide to soldering if you're not too familiar with the process.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

    -1
    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from Wiggy:

    Okey, I will do that. Guess I should upgrade to molex connectors while im at it.

    Good.

    Quoted from Wiggy:

    These are .156 size headers, right?
    So I need .156 male headers, .156 trifurcons and the right size molex connectors.

    No. These are the smaller 0.1" as you can see they are smaller than most of all the other connectors in the backbox, which those are 0.156".

    #28 1 year ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    TerryB wrote an excellent guide to soldering if you're not too familiar with the process.

    Havent soldered much in my days, and never on a board.. So im gonna read that carefully

    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    No. These are the smaller 0.1" as you can see they are smaller than most of all the other connectors in the backbox, which those are 0.156".

    Great, thanks.

    #29 1 year ago

    If you are uncomfortable send it to Chris H. here on pinside. Have him do cleanup and then put your NVRAM in.

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