(Topic ID: 329503)

Battery Holder Fix/Replacement

By Tez17

1 year ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by harig
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#1 1 year ago

Looking for some advice regarding our Getaway II. We learned a little too late that it's important to get rid of the alkaline batteries for this era of machine and found the middle one had leaked. Fortunately the leakage seemed to be relatively minor; extending only to the bottom contact and not to any of the board from what we can see. The corrosion was bad enough that the little felt pad and metal contact fell off and now on attempting to replace with lithium AA's and a spare piece of conductive metal, the game still will revert to factory default when turning off and on the machine. Our Fluke reads the same across these so I'm sure the metal piece is doing the same job. Any ideas?

(Haven't taken boards out before hence why I'm seeing if there's a simple solution)

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#2 1 year ago

The metal pad that fell off was connected through the insulator to the post that is soldered to the board. I doubt it is making adequate contact. Once those terminals corrode, they are toast.

The only correct fix is to pull the board and de-solder the battery holder and install either a new holder from Marco or Pinball Life, or go with NV RAM and never have to worry about it again. At the very least, you can order a remote battery holder that mounts on the side of the backbox and has long wires that solder into the old holder contacts. Basic soldering skills....very easy replace. If you don't know how to de-solder / Solder, would recommend taking it to someone that knows how. Even though it is an easy job, you can also overheat the contacts and ruin them if you are not sure what you are doing....good luck

#3 1 year ago

I’ve been using Franks battery boards in most of my machines and I’ve not had any issues so far. Just remove your old battery holder and solder one of these in place and all you have to do is occasionally pop in a new button battery. They are pretty straightforward.

https://noquartersarcade.com/product/williams-pinball-wpc-games-all/

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Niterider:

I’ve been using Franks battery boards in most of my machines and I’ve not had any issues so far. Just remove your old battery holder and solder one of these in place and all you have to do is occasionally pop in a new button battery. They are pretty straightforward.
https://noquartersarcade.com/product/williams-pinball-wpc-games-all/

If you're soldering anyway might as well just buy a coin battery holder and solder it on the board itself

#5 1 year ago

If you’re doing this yourself I wouldn’t install an nvram. The traces on the board are very small and unless you’re really good at soldering you could damage the board.

Options listed above are all good ones. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/MPU_Battery_Replacement_Options

#6 1 year ago

Interesting that lithium batteries leaked. I think that’s the first photo of a lithium leaking I’ve seen.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Interesting that lithium batteries leaked. I think that’s the first photo of a lithium leaking I’ve seen.

He said it was alkaline batteries that leaked and he was replacing with lithium.

#8 1 year ago

I think it's fun to make at least some effort to keep the electronics looking original. I use remote battery packs. But instead of rewiring anything, I use 1/2" dowel to make battery place holders. If the outer two battery holders are in good shape, it's plug-n-play. The picture is from a system 11. Don't know if WPC is the same orientation. I think there's a commercial version of this idea made from molded plastic.

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#9 1 year ago

To the original poster...

Lots of options, but your best option is to replace the batteries with NVRAM.

This requires skilled board repair, but is a 151 year fix.

If you have a pinball repair technician in your area, find out if they can do this job for you.

If YOU are the pinball technician in your area, you can send your board off to a board repair guy...

But at that point I'd probably advise you to move the battery holder off the board, and use Lithium AA replacements.

It's not the work I do for my customers, but it's good enough.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

If you're soldering anyway might as well just buy a coin battery holder and solder it on the board itself

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#11 1 year ago

Really good advice here. I'll discuss with my dad and see where he's at with this information. We may have to look around locally for help.

#12 1 year ago

Some of the solder pads on the resistors below the battery need to be cleaned up too. Should be fine. Remove old solder, wipe clean with alcohol, add new solder.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

I think it's fun to make at least some effort to keep the electronics looking original. I use remote battery packs. But instead of rewiring anything, I use 1/2" dowel to make battery place holders. If the outer two battery holders are in good shape, it's plug-n-play. The picture is from a system 11. Don't know if WPC is the same orientation. I think there's a commercial version of this idea made from molded plastic.
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Upvoted for the cat playing with it!

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Some of the solder pads on the resistors below the battery need to be cleaned up too. Should be fine. Remove old solder, wipe clean with alcohol, add new solder.

Is there a particular spot you see that needs it or are you saying in general this is good practice?

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

I think it's fun to make at least some effort to keep the electronics looking original. I use remote battery packs. But instead of rewiring anything, I use 1/2" dowel to make battery place holders. If the outer two battery holders are in good shape, it's plug-n-play. The picture is from a system 11. Don't know if WPC is the same orientation. I think there's a commercial version of this idea made from molded plastic.
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Interesting solution! Might try a variation on this.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Tez17:

Is there a particular spot you see that needs it or are you saying in general this is good practice?

R28-R31 resistors, below battery holder. R31 is marked on the board above the four resistors. Looking again, R24-R27 look rough too. Solder points look corroded and/ or cracked.

#17 1 year ago

I had an idea for a coin battery add-on that could be installed without removing the MPU. If I have to remove the MPU, I'm installing an IC socket and NVRAM. But that's not for everyone and can be risky. So I came up with a couple of prototypes that a friend is testing for me. The plus battery has the coin holder mounted on it and the minus battery is by itself. You can't see it in the pictures, but the coin holder circuit board is mounted on standoffs, so there clearance to prevent contact with the MPU battery prongs. You can make these for $1 or so.

Does anyone know about how long a WPC game without a clock will save settings using a coin battery instead of AA's?

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#18 1 year ago
Quoted from KenH:

Does anyone know about how long a WPC game without a clock will save settings using a coin battery instead of AA's?
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Couple years+

Seems like a lot of work when taking out the unit is super easy.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from KenH:

coin battery add-on that could be installed without removing the MPU.

If you're going to the trouble of designing a replacement why not design one that provides the same voltage?

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

If you're going to the trouble of designing a replacement why not design one that provides the same voltage?

The low power standby on the 6264 supports a minimum of 2 volts. One advantage to running standby at a lower voltage is that the standby current is reduced--so backup time is increased using less battery. A single 2032 is simple and small. There is less chance of leakage, and if it does, it leaks on the 50 cent add-on board, not your MPU.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Seems like a lot of work when taking out the unit is super easy.

Agree. If it were my game, I would have already replaced the RAM with a socket and NVRAM. If I botch my board in the process, I can deal with the consequences, and the risk is worth the reward. But I'm reluctant to take that risk with someone else's board.

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from KenH:

Agree. If it were my game, I would have already replaced the RAM with a socket and NVRAM. If I botch my board in the process, I can deal with the consequences, and the risk is worth the reward. But I'm reluctant to take that risk with someone else's board.

Installing just a coin battery has aboot 0% chance of botching a board

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Installing just a coin battery has aboot 0% chance of botching a board

Absolutely right! But I know myself, and I wouldn't be able to resist installing the IC socket if I pulled the board. I can already hear the voices in my head, 'hey, you already have the board out -- may as well install the IC socket, what could possibly go wrong?'. Maybe I tend to overthink...

#24 1 year ago

My idea was to offer a 5-minute solution to game owners that want to get the AA batteries off the MPU and provide some protection against battery damage. Some owners may not be willing or able to make the changes to their board. So this was an easy, low-tech solution to install a coin battery add-on without removing the board.

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from KenH:

Absolutely right! But I know myself, and I wouldn't be able to resist installing the IC socket if I pulled the board. I can already hear the voices in my head, 'hey, you already have the board out -- may as well install the IC socket, what could possibly go wrong?'. Maybe I tend to overthink...

I heard the same voices on all my games

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