(Topic ID: 251247)

Battery Corrosion experts


By robertmee

6 days ago



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  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by PinballManiac40
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    #1 6 days ago

    Looking at this picture is the bit of black in the ground mask, corrosion underneath the green mastic. Do I need to sand this entire area?

    The area that already has mastic loss is from the glue or insulator material the factory used underneath the battery holder.

    20190911_143651 (resized).jpg
    #2 6 days ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    Do I need to sand this entire area

    Yes, you'll need to sand the affected areas to get rid of the alkaline spreading across the copper traces. Untreated, it will continue to spread and corrode. Looks like you got lucky and the damage was fairly limited so far.

    #3 6 days ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Yes, you'll need to sand the affected areas to get rid of the alkaline spreading across the copper traces. Untreated, it will continue to spread and corrode. Looks like you got lucky and the damage was fairly limited so far.

    The damage wasn't too bad...down the left side to RA9 for the solenoid driver. So most of the blanking circuit. Two IC's, the 555 timer, about 10 resistors, a resistor bank, and 6 or so caps. Was in an Operator's game that had been stored for who knows how long. A shame too, because it looks like they had shopped the game before storage.

    But back to my question, so I understand you correctly, do you think that mottled blackness in the entire ground trace area is corrosion? So sand it down to the bare copper, the entire quadrant?

    #5 6 days ago

    Yeah, I usually treat the area, sand it, then treat it again.

    Quoted from robertmee:

    So sand it down to the bare copper, the entire quadrant?

    Basically, everything highlighted:

    pasted_image (resized).png

    Also, it looks like you're either using too much heat desoldering, or holding your desoldering iron on the PCB too long. You're burning it.

    #6 6 days ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Yeah, I usually treat the area, sand it, then treat it again.

    Basically, everything highlighted:
    [quoted image]
    Also, it looks like you're either using too much heat desoldering, or holding your desoldering iron on the PCB too long. You're burning it.

    Thanks for the highlight!

    Didn't notice any burn...the discoloration around the holes is the alkaline damage...I haven't treated it yet with Zep. The backside was fine, so I desoldered most components from the back.

    #7 6 days ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Basically, everything highlighted

    I agree.

    #8 6 days ago

    I have a fiber pen for the small stuff, but for an area that large, what grit paper do you recommend?

    #9 6 days ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    I have a fiber pen for the small stuff, but for an area that large, what grit paper do you recommend?

    I use a Dremel with an abrasive buff. Makes it easier to precisely control where you are removing the material and it's more delicate to the board than sandpaper. Won't take much effort to clean that entire affected area.

    #10 6 days ago
    Quoted from dothedoo:

    I use a Dremel with an abrasive buff. Makes it easier to precisely control where you are removing the material and it's more delicate to the board than sandpaper. Won't take much effort to clean that entire affected area.

    Good idea...I did start with some 150 grit...slow going but it came off....I'll use the dremel to make it more square and presentable.

    #11 6 days ago

    This low corrosion i only clean up.
    No need for expensive repair.

    #12 6 days ago
    Quoted from pinballwil:

    This low corrosion i only clean up.
    No need for expensive repair.

    This board already had some previous repairs and lifted/damaged traces, so I figured it's a good board to practice on. Plus nearly everyone is out of replacement DE MPU's. I have a spare RD for the game until I get this one fixed.

    #13 5 days ago

    Have some traces to repair with hookup wire. What's the best way to secure wire to board to relieve mechanical stress at solder point between wire and old trace? Hot glue or something different?

    #14 5 days ago

    Hot glue works

    #16 5 days ago

    Other things we use at work are Elastomer or even RTV. Just depends on the Engineer on what they worked with in the past.

    Hot glue is more common to have around the house.

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