Seems like this will be the 2nd documented BF restoration on pinside. Getting this pin was not an idea Time if you have not seen that I’m knees deep in a T2 restoration. I will attempt to move this along in addition to my T2. This game however needs a lot more work. It’s a European reimport. Has seem humid conditions due to rust and light panel mold. The playfield is in really nice shape however. The cab isn’t terrible. Needs some touch up but it’s structurally strong.

My method on this game is just to do some quick projects to make me feel happy and positive about this. Right now I’m replacing br1 and reworking the whole light panel. I then need to clean the dmd controller board and the screen.

This is all because I need to find out if the dmd works. There was a transformer hack I fixed. Verified all transformer voltages, and got mpu to power on and boot. No bongs from sound board. And no life from dmd. I know how sensitive they are to the 5v supply (I have a baywatch). It was a little low at the dmd controller hence looking at power supply board. The original bridge rectifier was gone and replace with a through hole version. Most of the pads for it too were destroyed. I think there is just enough to make solid electrical connections. Replaced with a 35a 400v version. Have bat cannon in tumbler to see how well these rusted/ white tarnish parts will fare out.

Wish me luck I really enjoy this game.

A0CADF33-9E54-446C-8988-64D59C7B39B3 (resized).jpeg

A8FD2A58-AE18-477B-B2EA-2A02B30AD1D5 (resized).jpeg

03455CE1-77AE-40FA-B791-49B4C481978A (resized).jpeg

C54264FA-64B6-4414-BFD8-612AD3773D15 (resized).jpeg

87CAEC2D-2DC8-4469-BC30-E476DB20D8E8 (resized).jpeg

567558D2-F441-47B0-AB1B-F4164907B862 (resized).jpeg

84E9BF7E-2534-4EA9-94B1-7D683E2FB25F (resized).jpeg

6E20BFFA-0492-4C79-831C-47820FB3B8CB (resized).jpeg

2F874C93-EA7D-4E1B-A603-4340D89B5DD9 (resized).jpeg

Again this project will have to be “complete able” and manageable sized projects for my sanity and drive. Reworking the whole dmd panel first. Replacing speakers with focal R-100c’s. I know focal is good but a friend gave me these. I’m worried about the sensitivity of these compared to stock.

00EE2DF5-F611-4ED2-A594-2D9AD33C78CC (resized).jpeg

5C4F3CC1-AE4E-49C5-8F1A-C8288339AFC5 (resized).jpeg

It has to get worse before it gets better. It’s quickly approaching nice weather in New England so I need to go faster on prepping my two playfield projects. This PF also has a bad bow in it and I want to fix it prior to clear coating. Also noticed some nasty adhesive/ residue above left outlane I’ll need to take care of.

482E1FB4-2789-40E3-BD0E-F409AC743093 (resized).jpeg

D635B69D-BDD0-4C92-8434-F3FDE3824E04 (resized).jpeg

08B67288-50E1-4F65-97C0-3FE7F1ACECC8 (resized).jpeg

03F7B22B-C5F3-4735-863C-B418738623EB (resized).jpeg

Playfield is fully stripped. Photo doesn’t show how warped the playfield is. Also near the shooter lane ball launch, there is almost no material to transfer the load from the playfield hooks PAST that thin section. As a result it’s considerably shifted/stepped. More fun stuff to fix

8A6983BD-DC4A-4642-A936-310A7E3F89BF (resized).jpeg

6E605493-F613-4214-A446-5687AD9FD298 (resized).jpeg

1B69C731-93FF-42A6-90A1-C0254DFCFFD5 (resized).jpeg

good news is playfield is sitting is restraints flattening out. Had a really nice day in NE last week and set it up in the sun (bottom side up) in the restraints. It seemed to take the bow out alot.

I want to get the backbox done so i can put all the boards and everything back in. I scanned the artwork but plan on touching up the screened cabinet.

I don't know what i am doing in gimp but i did my own technique to redraw the artwork.
I isolate the black layer first, then i isolate all the colors onto separate layers using the "select by color" tool. With the black lines as master and the top layer, i can add colors in separate layers and not worry about staying "in the lines" i can go back the black layer.
almost done, need to fix lines between scans (manually- i don't know how any other way)
Annotation 2020-04-01 123718 (resized).jpg
original
Annotation 2020-04-01 123748 (resized).jpg
black on its own layer and added contrast color to see issues
Annotation 2020-04-01 123812 (resized).jpg
adding 1 color at a time
Annotation 2020-04-01 123828 (resized).jpg

If anyone needs SVG's of the backbox I am recreating the artwork. I just finished the backbox latch pitcher. I wont invest in a screen but i should be able to make a nice stencil to repaint the art back on the backbox.

Capture (resized).JPG

I clamp the playfield to two straight pieces of aluminum extrusion. I kept it in the sun for a day and it helped but you can see the bow I am dealing with. Razor blade as reference because I couldn’t find a ruler. After removing it for this series of picture. I don’t think the sun helped all that much. Darn.

My next plan is to use hardwood (maple) rails and I might even epoxy some thin aluminum strips on each side (left and right). That will make the rails very very rigid so at least it can be flat once I re-assemble.

1A58CACB-FB50-4049-91A7-5495530F2BEF (resized).jpeg

75224024-C922-4988-B150-270A163129BA (resized).jpeg

5D3CDF7E-199B-4713-8164-62EB95A7ADD1 (resized).jpeg

AEA1F723-A56D-48D4-8091-6FF7B6C722E1 (resized).jpeg

Fixed the two most damaged areas on the back box. These are on the bottom where it meets the cabinet sides. Shot 18ga brads down through the bottom inside and bent then around to give the resin something to hold onto. Made dams with “duct” tape and used fiberglass resin. It’s coldish in NE and I’m not sure if I got the catalyst right but it’s still tacky but getting hard. Too soft to sand all day will have to wait a few more days. All the small imperfections I am filling in with bondo.
8DE2EF15-921A-447E-9CF9-A1CFCE63BCC3 (resized).jpeg0CF46E6D-E008-40BC-A4AF-0A52F7DDCA63 (resized).jpeg3C130B89-AC28-432C-82A9-AB5EBFEB5262 (resized).jpeg

I was able to finish all touch ups and clear coat the playfield today. The black near the cave I used to touch up the insert lines doesn’t match 100% even though it did with the naphtha test. Must have been my lighting I was using. Might need to repaint the whole black area.

4B26D41F-920F-48C6-A7A9-1C008F95C0F9 (resized).jpeg

83630F3C-AE5A-48FC-8CB6-ED1CEFF298B5 (resized).jpeg

89F6B14A-E44C-4D5C-A93D-4E223ECCDF3E (resized).jpeg

So some updates on this relic of a restore. If you have been following I was in the middle of a T2 restore alongside this and decided to finish my basement this past 12 months. Since both those are complete, looking to finish this up and move along. The playfield has about a full year to cure and die back, then sanded to 600 grit and hit with a final coat of clear. After 4 weeks, this is where it’s at. 1500 grit. For T2 I block sanded (wet) through all the grits but this time I got ROS sanding pads and ran through the grits with vacuum attached. We’ll see how it buffs out but I don’t see any difference between the methods so far and using the ros dry has been a lot less work. Need to hit it with 2000 grit then step through the polishing compounds.

I have all the replacement parts on order (was quite large), got my wire forms powder coated and got the display, display driver, and mpu to boot. All the mechs have been photographed and disassembled. They started in an evaporust bath, followed by ultrasonic cleaner and then the tumbler. Some parts I need to redo.

Stay tuned.
1BB1639C-16CD-48A0-B63B-255C6EAD0F1D (resized).jpeg339E68DD-3045-4464-9C32-49B0E799CDF4 (resized).jpeg5D995E99-EFEF-4CA6-9C73-96636004D1C6 (resized).png7C6C605E-57EE-42CC-B3DD-CE33B28F6BFF (resized).jpeg

So this will start moving along now. Playfield is through final sanding and polishing. Nice coat of wax. Inserted all the tee nuts and installed my new oak side rails I made. Finish is black lacquer. The next steps will be GI strings, and wire forms that get pressed into the playfield. Sega uses a lot of those. It’s nice to dial in the height of those while the playfield is bare. However, I need to powder coat those black. I am going to attempt to do those parts DIY style. I have a harbor freight coating gun and a spare toaster oven large enough for those parts. They have to be sandblasted first.

For the GI I am considering putting tinfoil under each part I solder as to not get any on the bottom of the playfield or burn off the poly on the back. Then I can staple it all down.

Any preference for pop bumper color combos?

I forgot the caps are blue. Not sure if they sell these sega style caps in other colors.

04A08950-9DB2-4DF9-8849-E091F50318FE (resized).jpeg

08B36745-299F-4F7C-BCF4-BFCBEDD5F04F (resized).jpeg

0BDB2DE3-5D23-4C94-9AAB-01E25E9E8179 (resized).jpeg

13DDCE52-9CCE-462A-AD84-6ED72BCF8FDF (resized).jpeg

6A43BB8B-82DF-4317-9AB0-FE58F1ABFF71 (resized).jpeg

8E96D764-D81B-4C7E-92F1-886F6925F6AC (resized).jpeg

91B6B78F-7625-4A28-9F7B-A9BC96A85279 (resized).jpeg

D13F20A3-E324-4386-BF41-685B0918A7F5 (resized).jpeg

Just progressing with the topside. Holding off on key parts near all the metal rails. I need to powdercoat those at home and need 1/2-full day to do so.

9CC28233-E8D7-4B06-801A-1A9FE2EC3189 (resized).jpeg

Was able to get all the wire ball guides powder coated matte black. DIY style. Was not difficult but my free oven barely made it to 400 degrees to bake the powder. All fins were ground down, sandblasted, washed, then baked prior to application to burn off any impurities.

I will carefully drill out all ball guide holes and get them back into the playfield tomorrow. FDE33876-B049-494E-83B3-87192B602EEE (resized).jpegFDE33876-B049-494E-83B3-87192B602EEE (resized).jpeg

0ED9C6C6-8BFA-43A1-B579-8793D0732AEB (resized).jpeg

48C6E00F-049F-41D9-900C-3CB869C821B6 (resized).jpeg

BEC36B09-B7B1-4571-8C5D-B29D26D2B390 (resized).jpeg

Ball guides went in with little to no issue. Always wonder how long they will hold up. I use a bit of wood glue when I tap them back in.

Milestone reached: no more hard banging on the top or bottom side so it’s time for the rotisserie!

I also scanned in the two large protective Mylar pieces (after painting black) and redrew them in solid works. Will cut them out on the cricut.

I think the next milestone will be to install all the GI sockets and use insulated wire.

Stay tuned!

1BE63592-3CA4-47B0-A551-1802032359D0 (resized).jpeg

1CD5A54E-7909-43C6-856B-D178658B1EFA (resized).jpeg

5DDB2FD0-4701-477B-8965-E1C0914BB298 (resized).jpeg

63EDE42A-8290-4EEE-B689-5A434FDD4C1C (resized).jpeg

CD066888-DCF5-40D6-9CD5-6F47B28A3E69 (resized).jpeg

Sure thing. I actually bought this project in a torn Down state. I got the disassembly photos with the game but they were not that great. I have been piecing together photos from various places and using the plastics to help determine locations etc. that is one area I didn’t get great photos. That and near the mini ramp.

This site has some good photos
http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2018/12/06/batman-forever-repair-service-log-4/

Also I recall a small plastic spacer in some photos.

I was over-zealous and thought I could have coated the wireforms in that shocker yellow. I luckily found a very local shop that does great work and very affordable. There was even a small chip on the wireforms due to the hanging wire and he did it over for me to make it right. that being said after doing these small parts in a simple color, I would have botched it.

First issue is oven size. I got a free "large" toaster oven but it was a black and decker "infraheat" which is not exactly set it and forget it type of oven. It had a very hard time hitting 400 degrees and then there was the matter of when to start the bake time. Its usually when the part surface hits temp which i was not tracking. Since they were relatively small cross section and even parts, i figured they got up to temp within 5 or so minutes of being put in and adjusted the time accordingly.

But small parts like this in a more traditional toaster oven or junk oven with a cheap harbor freight gun came out great.

I will be doing the mini ramp at some point because its plated nickel and has ball trail wear, and I had to re-spot weld a broken tab which slightly discolored the metal up top where the resistance welder made contact. i am worried about powder coating over a plated part especially since this ramp will be getting batwing hits all day long. We shall see what the surface looks like after sand blasting, but at that point, its too late anyway.

that's the worry, its not adhering to base material. The nickel is in good shape, just worn where the ball hits the bottom and sides, and the discoloration (minor). I have not fully committed to coating it yet.

Settled on pop colors. I just so happen to have bodies and extra skirts that matched the playfield colors. Cut out the new Mylar for the pops and installed all the GI sockets. Even found the right color and 1/4” staples. Will plan on Dailey chaining then all together tomorrow.

0A6F23B1-2B3F-4985-B84C-F080E57DD57E (resized).jpeg

52400A9D-B738-4E9E-A63B-A0112B49D921 (resized).jpeg

ADEA629B-34CF-4669-A78F-04B106B8F610 (resized).jpeg

C5F57650-EB9D-40B7-9309-5C35C6F06A5C (resized).jpeg

No big update. Focusing on preparing for the holidays. I did ultrasonically clean all the lamp boards and sockets. Will throw those on the playfield. Also working on rebuilding all the mechs.

57EB3BD5-AF48-4BAC-86D2-3A385CC921BC (resized).jpeg

DAB89153-64D7-478C-B8A0-E88CFD0796DF (resized).jpeg

Almost all mechs fully rebuilt, new coil wrappers. I had to tap all the #2-56 threaded holes. They used self tapping screws originally which leave poor threads and when I replaced all the screws, they would bind up. Re hilt trough with all new switched. Sling shots rebuilt with new switches. This game will have roughly $500 in replacement parts so far. Again, cost of restores always goes up and up.

A97B50C6-B7F1-4F48-89ED-87E777A63D51 (resized).jpeg

CB64E8CF-2143-4457-8915-834989ED1314 (resized).jpeg

D1575AEB-1AD0-47E9-82B8-32032585A342 (resized).jpeg

E8335702-F9AB-4E16-B75E-F500DB908ABF (resized).jpeg

Oh man. Had to mock up the wireforms. This thing will be sweet.

Plan for tonight and tomorrow will be to powder coat the mini ramp and batwing cannon mouthing assembly. I could not get it looking nice in the few days that it was in the tumbler.

DD7072CC-F52C-47D4-A750-872C46870A9F (resized).jpeg

E2A997CD-B704-4E92-947D-07EE9690CA05 (resized).jpeg

Finally got mini ramp welded, blasted, and powder coated. Re-assembled. Now I can start populating plastics and a few layers of items in this area. Applied some Mylar under the ramp flap. I did the batwing cannon too but the powder coat bubbled badly. Not sure why. Contamination? I did both items at the same time and same process.

Sandblast
Ultrasonic clean
Hot water rinse
Air blowoff
Bake bare part in oven at 400 for 10 minutes
Powder coat
Bake

12C4EB11-6BDE-4A29-B375-71C167DA604B (resized).jpeg

2590969A-268E-4F0A-96C2-B43918789F77 (resized).jpeg

A848DF6C-11C2-419A-B84D-FF14A895972E (resized).jpeg

EB8C8C0F-25A1-4E5E-8558-B04A68696096 (resized).jpeg

F8A769EF-0C7C-4D9B-A6EE-60B509B68A68 (resized).jpeg

Kind of a scatter brain update at this point. Did not have much time around the holidays to work so I tackled small manageable items. I removed all the adhesive off the batcannon sticker so i can reuse that. Made a new back panel out of polycarbonate. The intent was to illuminate it but most backpanels are stickers, which would have lighted up nice and evenly but since this is a plastic, that is screwed to the backpanel, it did not light up as expected so i chose to not added LED strips. Will tackle the harness shortly. Removed all switches and will evaluate each one. Had to get a marco order so i got all new plastic switch brackets. the harnesses are not 3 separate ones like Williams so they are a little crazy. sanded, painted, and added the flashers back to the light panel, need to do staple down #44 sockets but I got color correct GI wire that will be in that Marco order.
1760133B-06FD-42BA-BBF2-B6CEAEB26BC9 (resized).jpeg4FC7E8E6-3950-4436-97A8-8D37BC9E73CE (resized).jpeg6EC04C49-F3B6-4735-A581-CBB3F74B9DD9 (resized).jpeg9A3D0125-22F5-4E07-B033-8E28E91633DC (resized).jpegE6515012-AE74-4AF1-897B-BE6C35B2C212 (resized).jpegF71ED6CE-A68F-49D9-823B-B61380935EE7 (resized).jpeg

I was staring at the empty space on the right of the playfield and decided I needed to revive one of the ramps. Removed everything, cleaned, flamed polished and fixed a few small cracks that propagated from the ramp fastening holes with weld on 4. I highly recommend This stuff to repair ramps. Water thin and basically wicks into the cracks. So far a good bond. Well shall see how it holds up. I had flatten a few plastics, the large one near the upper flipper is original and in “ok” shape. It didn’t come with the NOS set I got. If anyone had a new one let me know. The ramp plastic got the sticker applied back on after removing the old adhesive. I guess they made some post production changes. That and the switches under the playfield are all complete. The ramp switches were replaced as well.

Pretty stoked on how the ramp came out. I enlarged the holes that mount it to the lower wire form by .005” on the diameter to account for the powder coating.

Before pictures added as well. E39E9E9D-18C4-4609-AEA4-621C0D52D586 (resized).jpeg

1A98049A-90D7-45F1-B3FB-82E21F8E4E04 (resized).jpeg1CDE2673-43E4-4D29-B7D0-2353FDA41C6A (resized).jpeg20A3D712-14E2-406B-A954-6E1C232AEBB7 (resized).jpeg2125C03A-18FE-436F-A3DC-155F3F1DA940 (resized).jpeg325085ED-A83E-43C2-BADD-2B592F209DA6 (resized).jpeg4AE095AA-9D3F-468C-9921-A20BF2286F44 (resized).jpeg800A5E2E-435C-4526-8190-C7EC48169767 (resized).jpeg9DA1E8D6-391A-4F50-A23D-55E00D08CEFB (resized).jpegE39E9E9D-18C4-4609-AEA4-621C0D52D586 (resized).jpegE3D06315-26D3-42FE-ACF2-58E987AEF91C (resized).jpeg

which inserts!? they were all glued down, and level, and I have not noticed any separation since i cleared the whole thing.

which post #? i ask because you gave me a heart attack haha. Yes the playfield had tons of insert cracking, raising, etc. I leveled and glued all the inserts back down and no more feel raised above the rest of the playfield surface after I cleared and started re-assembly.

ohhh, phew, yeah so I follow Vid's guide and HEP's entire amazing thread. I try to strive to their greatness and land somewhere I am happy with. For leveling inserts, i use a heat gun (or hair dryer) and heat both sides of the insert (top and bottom- this is also done with everything removed but have seen posts where people do it populated and just removed nearby items). I test every so often to push the insert by hand, if it moves a little bit, I stop clamp the insert down with scraps of wood and a 12" U clamp until it’s level. Once i remove the clamp, hopefully it stays level with the playfield. I then use 5 minute epoxy and glue the sides of the insert as best i can. Best advice i have read is to remove the insert and reglue but i did not need to do that with this playfield.

Some delays. Family trip. Focusing on finishing the stair railing in my basement.

Hope to pick back up soon.

This is not dead. Just no time for the project. It’s getting cold fast here in New England so I am finding it to be a mad dash to try and get all the cab work done. Or I potentially won’t have a rotisserie freed up for a winter project.

Batman playfield is 98% done, just reattaching them last sockets to the playfield.

I need the cab done so I can free up the rotisserie.

The cab needs a whole bunch of work but I think my woodworking skills will allow me to get this looking good. And I also get to save a screened original cab. Not even sure if decals were ever made for this. All the metal is out to the powder coasters to get matte black costing.

Had to route out the bottom panel, it was water logged and toast. Also replacing the corner bracing then it’s a lot of filler, fiberglass reinforcement and paint.

0EBDE957-A616-4F66-954F-EDEEF2B98A05 (resized).jpeg

1C178D11-0B8B-47A4-954D-ACAD1F76EF6A (resized).jpeg

4DB89FD9-16F6-4BFD-BE6F-F201282B4F78 (resized).jpeg

8A7F6764-0259-41EF-AA62-3772924EF662 (resized).jpeg

B35BF7BC-377A-4ECD-80F9-B89327EA3490 (resized).jpeg

DAD0B132-3BA3-407D-A6AC-2AAA1BEC2A1A (resized).jpeg

The inside is sanded and painted. I masked off the areas for the support angles. I dry fitted the new 1/2” Baltic birch bottom panel. Fits like a glove. I will use construction adhesive to secure it, glue in the supports, route new holes and then add up the bottom lip (that I previously removed) with filler wood. The bottom lip will be painted so you won’t see any of that work.

Amazon had a super deal on spray max. 12 matte clear cans for $70. That’s $6 a can. The whole cabinet will be matte cleared. First coat to lockdown all art then I need to fill/ level/ sand imperfections and touch up. Black areas will be easy and hoping to make stencils for more complex parts.

I’m toying with the notion to make water slide decals to recreate the front areas where the coin door lock holes were made. We shall see.

33572AF9-341F-424C-A297-DA9FA5AF20A3 (resized).jpeg

Bottom holes were put into the new panel and glued back into place.

3F4B8290-6BE3-45AE-A808-D7DF9A8D207B (resized).jpeg

4D8A5F55-740F-4091-BCD9-97C09C2710F5 (resized).jpeg

Adding 1/4”x1/4” fillers back to the bottom edge. Then fiberglass resin to fill in any gaps/ damaged wood area. Also using the strips to help re-establish the blown out corner.

I will use a router to bring the edge flush depth wise with the remainder of the cabinet once dry.

1706C420-D5CB-49EE-8CD9-CEE1A004270C (resized).jpeg

792B148D-49C6-4FAD-9F8B-9A622D12456B (resized).jpeg

9FB92526-E5DA-4A86-804A-DD4F54837F8D (resized).jpeg

ED206895-6EF1-4218-8E1B-312248DEC005 (resized).jpeg

Finished the edges. Just using fiberglass resin to even out the surfaces. I will also use a router to add the bevel back on the bottom. It was completely chipped out in some areas.

Also got al my powder coated items back so I had to clean the apron decals, reapply adhesive and reuse. They were not in terrible shape and could not find replacements.

0E592B1C-B289-4945-AE94-2E309CDD1BE5 (resized).jpeg

3A995B02-1D86-4106-8103-3C90B91333AC (resized).jpeg

80A23BF3-7F06-4514-896E-08892BED308E (resized).jpeg

99CB69E8-C6EC-48CF-91FF-F246AC828777 (resized).jpeg

E576993F-EF7C-4588-B8DF-648C2C81B17A (resized).jpeg

Bottom chamfer redone. Deciding to paint the edge, which is normal unpainted, either a wood tan color or just black to match the art, or to attempt to extend the art down the chamfer.

Got all holes in the bottom panel done and chamfered as well.

Small bits of progress…..

AAAF337F-5CC1-4561-AFD6-5729291BD0CD (resized).jpeg

BD3906FD-B067-4D6A-A44F-313BBD522F16 (resized).jpeg

C582D784-2BEB-4864-9A9A-F50EC723051A (resized).jpeg

It was a nice 65+ day here in New England and my weekend plans got canceled so took the opportunity to finish scraping off the side rail adhesive and put a light clear coat on the outside to lock down the paint- I couldn’t even put painters tape down without pulling little bits of paint. And I put the final coat of clear on the interior. So interior is complete. I can start doing the ground braid and things like that.

With the lockdown coat done, I can finally start repainting and fixing issues.

However, it does look a lot better with an even sheen and the colors popped.

46D2077F-438F-4275-9D20-8CBD6C61AD87 (resized).jpeg

BC26E0C2-EEF0-4F1A-9D0E-8BA927BB39EC (resized).jpeg