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(Topic ID: 236189)

Batman display not working. Newb Help please!!


By Montetheartman

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Montetheartman
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

sound board (resized).jpg
cn1 (resized).jpg
sparky (resized).jpg
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20190212_123019 (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

Got this batman data east that plays good and everything works except the display. On first glance I see really burnt connectors on the power supply board. Looks like the traces on the board are blackened and not green anymore too. Also looks like one of the fuses may be burned. I tried swapping the direction on the display ribbon cable and reconnecting the connectors on the display and Power board, but no luck. I have seen the display flash a glimmer of life, lighting a few pixels after I turned it on once, but never happened again. I've never done much repair besides soldering a loose wire and changing lights/rubbers. Never changed a fuse or measured voltages. Should I start with just buying a new power supply board or is there something simpler to check first? Thanks.

(also the thing circled in red flashes a blue spark when I turn the game off). not sure what that is or if related.

20190212_123019 (resized).jpg20190212_123025 (resized).jpgsparky (resized).jpg
#2 1 year ago

Bumpity bump bump

#3 1 year ago

c'mon people

#4 1 year ago

why are people favoriting this but not commenting?

#5 1 year ago

Start at pinwikki.com
Don’t know much about Batman.
But pull the fuses out a check them with multimeter.
Batman thread here somewhere?

#6 1 year ago

I have been reading at pinwikki and the other batman threads don't have my exact issues. The game is also reseting randomly and the bg music cuts out sometimes. THANKS FOR YOUR REPONSE!! ha

#7 1 year ago

I'd start with replacing that burned CN1 connector and header on the power supply. That's where the power from the transformer comes in on the power supply to create the proper voltages for the display and the logic voltages to run the game. You can see where its all burned. The CN8 connector is burned too but that's for the GI lighting, so different issue, but might as well replace since your going to have the board out anyways. Check the traces and plated through holes with a meter as some could be compromised from the heat.

Replace CN1 header/housing connector with https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKWMS

Replace CN8
housing x1: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF15609
connectors x8: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T
header x1: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-10862-09
key x1: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF156K

Once you replace that your display should work and possibly help with the resets. The power goes through the PS to get the voltages for the display on CN5 and the logic voltage on CN6.

Do all that first, reinstall the PS then report back.

The relay with the sparks is normal. When a contact under load is opened, an arc is created. The same happens in your light switches at home when you turn the lights off. You just don't see it because it's not inside of a clear box.

#8 1 year ago

Thank you! I knew someone would come through. Is it better to just replace the power supply with a new xpin one? or have the original repaired? I'll have to send off as that's beyond my skill set.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Montetheartman:

Thank you! I knew someone would come through. Is it better to just replace the power supply with a new xpin one? or have the original repaired? I'll have to send off as that's beyond my skill set.

I love X-Pin and wouldn’t hesitate on getting one if you would compare price of sending yours out to be repaired or just buying an XPin board. While probably new board is going to be more $ than a repaired board, it’s not going to be almost 30 years old.

#10 1 year ago

id also replace those batteries, mixing brands is the fastest way to get leakage.

#11 1 year ago

I'd fix it for the $10 in parts. Even if you buy a $100 new board you still have to replace the connectors and housings. Do the repairs as a learning experience and don't just become a board-swapper-outer.

#12 1 year ago

Are the new replacement boards safe or do they sometimes damage or blow other stuff out because they're made to fit several games instead of mine specifically? Definitely looks like CN1 is burned and I found a new issue on the sound board. Capacitor or something leaked and messed that up too. sheesh. Does that look fixable or just replace that board as well?

cn1 (resized).jpgsound board (resized).jpg
#13 1 year ago

XPin replacement boards are safe

#14 1 year ago

Go to this Data East help site.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

I don't know how it will be for your Batman, but for my Robocop it was indispensable. It told me the most likely cause of why my display ( it is different than the Batman display) was not working. It did not leave me guessing with half-wit comments of "well, you need to try this and if that does not work then try this". None of that. It told me what was wrong and told me what transistors and resistors I needed to buy to repair my display. And it worked !

I found this website so packed with useful information about my Robocop that I printed all pages and placed them in a 3-ring binder. This stuff is too valuable to lose. Printed out it looks like a New York phone book.

If you do not yet have a DE manual go buy one. You will need it to go along with the link I provided.

Here is a place that has your manual in stock or maybe you can get one on Ebay.

https://quarterarcade.com/batman-5585

You now have the keys to the DE Castle.

2 months later
#15 1 year ago

well I sent all the boards out and had them repaired/checked. I changed the burned connectors too and still nothing on the display. So...ribbon cable or bad display i guess? Is there a way to check the ribbon cable without just buying a new one?

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