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(Topic ID: 159118)

Batman 66 Retheme Project - From Diner to Caped Crusader


By docquest

4 years ago



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  • 218 posts
  • 64 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by docquest
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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There are 218 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 5.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I didn't think of that. I'll have to see if hot wheels made that one as well.

Hot Wheels did make a 1/64 batgirl cycle but last I knew it was part of a LE 3 pack.

03a52fb90a64c74cbf97b2f3992682b5.image.300x225_(resized).jpg

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I also played around with text style. While the tilted text looks cooler I’m not sure it will be as easily legible as just a simple straight line of text. Still not sure which type I’ll go with. Opinions?

I vote for the straight line. Also, could it be possible to paint the inserts with the bat symbols instead of using a decal? It should be easier to paint that than it would be trying to do text.

Still rating this thread as bat-awesome.

BatmanPinball_(resized).jpg

#53 4 years ago

I saw the bat cycle (Yamaha) and side car at a auto auction in Raleigh NC. The side car is actually a sort of go cart on a side car trailer. Watching this thread.

#54 4 years ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

could it be possible to paint the inserts with the bat symbols instead of using a decal?

That's a good idea. I should be able to make a sticker/stencil for the 4 inserts that get the bat symbol and paint it on. I think I'll give that a try. Thanks

#55 4 years ago

Another approach to increase the opacity is to just put multiple decals on top of one another. Anyone do that before?

#56 4 years ago

I have. Not for pinball, but I have. It works fairly decent. Really depends on the printer you're using and how it puts down ink. One thing you might look into is with the artwork you're printing, when you're printing the black, make it a full process black. That means, if you're doing the artwork in Illustrator, make all four color sliders 100% of each of the four colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key(black).

Some laser printers will print this kind of "full" black with all four colors and make it MUCH darker with just a single pass.

#57 4 years ago

Probably too thick, but what about thin black vinyl and a vinyl cutter like a cricut?

#58 4 years ago

Incidentally, A re-theme to Batman 1966 has been done before. We had a bonus item on one of our DVDs with it. I think yours will be amazing and I wish you much success!

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Incidentally, A re-theme to Batman 1966 has been done before. We had a bonus item on one of our DVDs with it. I think yours will be amazing and I wish you much success!

I would love to see that. Do you know what dvd had it?

#60 4 years ago

This is gonna look nice!

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

The fifth choice could just be a pic of them running.

I vote Bat-ByFoot (running) ... running as the lowest bonus ... that's funny .

#62 4 years ago

You might want to check out this approach for insert text http://www.cbridge.com/howtos/gettingstarted.shtml .

It's basically an easy way to create small silk screens. It seems like you can get some fine resolution using that.

Here's a link to some videos of someone restoring Junkyard inserts (this was a discussion on RGP years ago).

http://photos.scriptpirate.com/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=2433418&mid=205790&mt=Video

*The* problem you might run into is drying time. That ink isn't exactly going to cure quickly. However, I wonder if some kinds of acrylic paint that are a bit thicker might work.

Ideally, you'd want to screen these on before you install your overlay. Since you laid down some varithane, you could clean up mistakes and re-screen if goof ups occur .

Here's a link to the original discussion.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/Nc34vpy6AXM

#63 4 years ago
Quoted from megadeth2600:

You might want to check out this approach for insert text http://www.cbridge.com/howtos/gettingstarted.shtml .
It's basically an easy way to create small silk screens. It seems like you can get some fine resolution using that.
Here's a link to some videos of someone restoring Junkyard inserts (this was a discussion on RGP years ago).
http://photos.scriptpirate.com/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=2433418&mid=205790&mt=Video
*The* problem you might run into is drying time. That ink isn't exactly going to cure quickly. However, I wonder if some kinds of acrylic paint that are a bit thicker might work.
Ideally, you'd want to screen these on before you install your overlay. Since you laid down some varithane, you could clean up mistakes and re-screen if goof ups occur .
Here's a link to the original discussion.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/Nc34vpy6AXM

I know when you screen print, you have to heat set. My boss used to do some on the side.

#64 4 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

when you're printing the black, make it a full process black. That means, if you're doing the artwork in Illustrator, make all four color sliders 100% of each of the four colors: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Key(black).
Some laser printers will print this kind of "full" black with all four colors and make it MUCH darker with just a single pass.

I tried printing process black (YMC + K) but the registration was a tad off which caused some color fringing on the edges. Maybe if I did a few treis I'd get one perfectly registered. I think I'm happy with the opaqueness of the double decal method though.

#65 4 years ago

I tried putting a duplicate water slide decal on top of the the first water slide decal to increase the opaqueness of the black. It looks much better. First pic is the single decal and the second pic has a duplicate decal applied on top of the first. You have to let the first one fully dry before applying the second one. Otherwise they both slide around too much and its too difficult to align them. My order of the white backed water slide decal paper wont be here until Monday. Once I get that in I want to experiment with black text with white border or white text with black border.

back_lit_signal_(resized).jpg

double_decal_(resized).jpg

#66 4 years ago

#2 = cooler.

#67 4 years ago

If two stacked decals is all it takes to achieve the required opacity you're looking for, you're pretty lucky! I'd just do that for all the inserts, then, and not worry about anything else. Just make sure you're covering the whole insert with decal material. That way, when you go to clear over it, you'll have less sanding time as it'll be more even to start with.

BTW, I can't wait to see how this game turns out!!

1 week later
#68 4 years ago

My white Backed waterslide decals finally came in last week. I had some time to play around with them this week to see if I like them better than the clear backed decals. I got my white backed decals from amazon.

amazon.com link »

As I hoped the opacity was much better with these but there were some tradeoffs. My goal was to print black text with a white border around it. Since the paper itself is white I decided to render the text with a white border and also have a black border around the white border. This helps guide you as to where to cut the text out. You can see the extra border in the pic below.

It was very difficult to cut the text out without getting frilly or jaggedness on the edges. I was using new scissors and a new exacto blade and they were still difficult to get a nice edge consistently. Even with the extra black border it was difficult to get a consistent white border width around the text. The smaller text areas were really difficult to cut out. Luckily you can fit a lot of labels on an 8.5x11 sheet so when I printed out a sheet I tried to fill it as much as possible with multiple copies of each insert text block. This gave me plenty of retries.

insert_sheet_(resized).jpg

#69 4 years ago

I wonder if one of those electronic cutter machines could work on the water slide material. Itdidn;t mention waterslide decals ins it approved materials list.

http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/machines/portrait

#70 4 years ago

The white backed decals were easier to handle and apply than the clear ones. They feel a bit thicker and don’t seem to fold up onto themselves as easily as the clear ones did. The toner from the laser printer seemed more fragile on these then the clear backed decals. As I handled them, parts of the toner would sometimes flake off if you weren’t careful. If you wanted white text with a black or color border it would be difficult because as you cut through the printed areas you sometimes cause the toner to flake off in spots. Maybe this wouldn’t be a problem with the inkjet versions?

I found that when printing black the process black (uses yellow, magenta, and cyan toner combined to make black) was not very black at all. Forcing the laser printer to print black using the black toner produced a much nicer black. I tried colored text on some of the inserts but in the end I think just plain black with a white border was the most readable.

I needed the white outlined text since a lot of my inserts are dark and just putting black text on them made them very hard to read when unlit. The white border makes it much more legible when unlit. When lit the opacity is enough that it’s still readable. Here are some examples.

insert_batusi_off_(resized).jpg

insert_batusi_on_(resized).jpg

insert_bam_unlit_(resized).jpg

insert_bam_lit_(resized).jpg

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#71 4 years ago

As a side experiment, I found some white dry transfer rub on letters at a local hobby shop. They were just like these on amazon:

amazon.com link »

Although they looked fine when unlit they were not as opaque as the white backed waterslide decals. Another limitation is that there is a very limited selection of fonts and sizes to choose from. The pics below show unlit and lit using the rub on dry transfer letters. There were only $5 so it was worth a try to see how they worked.

insert_rubon_off_(resized).jpg

insert_rubon_on_(resized).jpg

#72 4 years ago

Although I wish the consistency of my white border width was better from letter to letter I think this is good enough. The Batman TV show font I’m using is “Ad Lib”. It is a blocky type of font that fits well with my crude border cutting.
Some interesting facts regarding the Ad Lib font:

Ad Lib is a decorative typeface that was designed in 1961 by Freeman Craw for American Type Founders. It was extremely popular from the early- to mid-1960s, and is often used today to evoke that era.

Ad Lib was used for episode titles and "Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel" text overlays on the 1960s Batman television program.
Ad Lib was used in the 1976 film The Bad News Bears.
Ad Lib was used in the Pink Panther titles, as well as in the credits of the Looney Tunes shorts that DePatie-Freleng Enterprises produced from 1964 to 1967.
Ad Lib was used in film credits, such as The Outrage, A Guide for the Married Man and "A Man Called Dagger".
Ad Lib was used as the font to display scores on the television screen and for the logo on the first season of the 1996-99 version of The Newlywed Game.
Ad Lib was used for the titles of the television series Night Gallery which ran from 1970 to 1973.
Ad Lib was used for in the 1967 film In The Heat of the Night and the 1988 TV series based in the film.
Ad Lib was used on most Animaniacs tie-in merchandise.
Ad Lib is also used in the opening and closing credits of the animated series American Dad.
Ad Lib is used in the logo of the website Rotten Tomatoes.
Ad lib is used throughout the Worms video game franchise.

AdLib_(resized).png

#73 4 years ago

I also started thinking more about my translate design. I really like the clock back box animation in the current Diner game and want to keep that in my Batman version. To those unfamiliar with it here’s how the current Diner clock works.

There is a circular hole in the translite that allows you to see a rotating clock mechanism in the back box. Each hour on the clock corresponds to the number of millions collected in the “DineTime” jackpot. You advance the clock and add to the jackpot by accomplishing certain tasks during the game. As you advance the jackpot the clock physically rotates and points to the current jackpot amount (3 o’clock is a 3 million jackpot, 8 o’clock is 8 million jackpot, etc. Once you finish serving all 5 customers the “DineTime” insert will lit and you have a short amount of time to shoot the ball into the upper left saucer to collect the jackpot.

diner_clock1_(resized).jpg

diner_clock2_(resized).jpg

diner_clock3_(resized).jpg

#74 4 years ago

For my version I want the clock to become the bat signal being projected into the sky. Since this will no longer be a clock with numbers around it I need a new way to indicate the current jackpot value. I thought about going electronic with an LED type display but decided I’d prefer to keep it as mechanical is possible. The clock face is just a flat disc with a clock hand printed on it. In my case it will be replaced with a graphic of the bat signal symbol. However I will also add a ring of numbers around the outer edge of the clock. These numbers will align to a second small window I have in the translite to indicate the current jackpot value. The gif below shows a mock-up of what I’m thinking. Still not sure about the actual art style of the translite (photos from the show or hand drawn) or the actual layout of the translite. I’d prefer to not have to move the clock mechanism but I will if the final layout I like dictates it.

bat_signal_jackpot2-1.gif

#75 4 years ago

If this is a mock-up... i am realy looking forward to the final thing!

Looks great, and great solution for the clock jackpots

#76 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

For my version I want the clock to become the bat signal being projected into the sky. Since this will no longer be a clock with numbers around it I need a new way to indicate the current jackpot value. I thought about going electronic with an LED type display but decided I’d prefer to keep it as mechanical is possible. The clock face is just a flat disc with a clock hand printed on it. In my case it will be replaced with a graphic of the bat signal symbol.

Very cool...definitely following this thread. You're doing a "Bam" up job on this so far! Like the mechanized translite idea. Perhaps Batman and Robin on one side with the Bat Signal in the middle so you don't have to move the mech, and the villains on the other side?

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Very cool...definitely following this thread. You're doing a "Bam" up job on this so far! Like the mechanized translite idea. Perhaps Batman and Robin on one side with the Bat Signal in the middle so you don't have to move the mech, and the villains on the other side?

Thats exactly what I was thinking except maybe add Batgirl at well.

#78 4 years ago

Progress has been a little slower this week as I've also been doing a cab restore on my Gottleib Centigrade 37. I'm trying to get it fully repainted and stenciled and back together in time for the New England Pintastic show in a few week. I'll post my results on that project in another thread.

I did have some time though to finish up all the decals for my inserts. I'm about to put a final layer of clear over everything to seal it all up in prep for the finally art overlay. As I was doing the insert decals I decided to make a small change that took some extra work. In the original Diner art there is a large rectangular insert centered just above the flippers. Labeled as "Serve Again", this lights up let you when you have a an extra ball ready to go.

shoot_again_diner.jpg

#79 4 years ago

I was going to leave this basically as is except the text would read "Fight Crime Again". However as I was laying out the artwork for the rest of the playfield I decided it needed something a little more interesting there. Once of the unique features of the original Batman show was the big cliff hanger that ended the first part of each episode pair. Batman and/or Robin would be in some kind of wonderfully elaborate and complicated killing machine or trap of some kind with no obvious method of escape. The show narrator Desmond Doomsday (voiced by the show’s executive producer William Dozier) would say things like "Is this the End?", "The Worst is Yet to Come !", "Infamy of Infamies!", and the often "Tune in Tomorrow, Same Bat-Time, Same Bat-Channel".

Bat1.jpg

Bat3.jpg

Bat2.jpg

Bat4.jpg

Bat5.jpg

Bat6.jpg

#80 4 years ago

So I wanted to evoke those memories with my shoot again insert by putting an illustration of a retro TV there with the text reading "Tune In Again" and "Same Bat-Time Same Bat-Channel" below the TV. The only problem was that my insert was a wide rectangle so if I made a TV image around it the aspect ratio would be way off. There were no 16:9 widescreen TV's in 1966.

The 1mm in the pic is a notation I made on my earlier test print to make sure my insert holes lined up with the play field inserts and I needed that one to move over to the right a little.

shoot_again_blank.jpg

#81 4 years ago

So I used my black water slide decals to make a mask around the insert. As before, I used two decals on top of one another to try and fully mask out the light under the black areas. Since my final art overlay is printed on clear material I'd need to put white on top of the black so that my artwork of the TV had white underneath it. The decals are extremely thin so I don't think multiple layered decals are a problem. I'm also putting a final clear coat on top of everything before the overlay goes on which will also help smooth things out I put an LED under the masked insert and verified that the combination of the black decals plus the white backed decal on top of it effectively blocks the light.

shoot_again_masked.jpg

-1
#82 4 years ago

The white was not quite the same white as the rest of the playfield so once the white decal was dry I then painted over them using the same white I used on the rest of the playfield. Since it was spray paint I just spayed a bunch into a paper cup to make a little puddle and used a paint brush from there. I probably could have masked the are and just sprayed it on but I didn't want to accidentally pull up the water slide decals if I used a paint mask with adhesive on the back of it. A little light sanding when dry followed up with my clear coat should make it smooth again.

shoot_again_painted.jpg

30
#83 4 years ago

After the paint was dry I cleaned up the edges a little and then printed a cropped section of my playfield art on an 8.5" x 11" clear transparency (I couldn't believe we had these in the supply cabinet at work. I can't think of any reason these still exist in a modern office environment). Here's how it looks with my sample artwork over it. I thinks the TV graphic is much nicer than the original idea of just "Fight Crime Again" in a plain red rectangle.

final_insert.jpg

#84 4 years ago

Next step is to finish up a few more tweaks to the final playfield overlay art and get it printed and installed.

#85 4 years ago

Really curious to see how this turns out--especially from a software stand point. Excellent work so far!

#87 4 years ago

Speechless

#88 4 years ago

As far as programming goes, the game will still be running the stock Diner code with some enhancements. One of the reasons I picked diner for the retheme is that the layout lent itself perfectly for the approach I was thinking of (customers become villains, clock becomes bat signal, cup becomes villain hideout, etc). Plus more importantly the Diner layout and rule set is a proven classic and just plain fun to shoot. There's no way I could create my own game layout that would ever be as good as this.

For the enhancements, I'll be using the pinsound board to replace existing Diner sounds and music with new Batman versions. I also plan on adding a pinduino or pinlightshield to add some extra pizzazz to the game lighting. For example, as a villain (was a customer in Diner) is active I can trigger the pinduino to change the game GI to match the villains color scheme. For example, Joker has magenta GI, Riddler green, King Tut gold/yellow, etc. Not sure what color Catwoman would be unless I just make it plain white.

I'm also planning on adding some toys to the game. I want the villains to mess with you as they are active. For example in my earlier pic you can see that in the Joker insert he's got a big electric joy buzzer in his hand. I could use the same technique in those gag shock pens to put a small static shock on metal flipper buttons or the lock down bar. If I get to nervous about killing someone with a pace maker I might just settle for a strong shaker motor effect.

#89 4 years ago

This might be cool if the smoke was colored.

#90 4 years ago

Nice work on the art! The character inserts looks awesome. Were you able to pull that from the new comic series or another source?
I also love that you've matched the font. I started looking for the right one a couple of weeks ago but I'm not at the art stage just yet so haven't really worried too much.

#91 4 years ago

Reminds me of classic Batman villain tactics.

97960-131216-penguin.jpg

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

Nice work on the art! The character inserts looks awesome. Were you able to pull that from the new comic series or another source?

Most of what I'm using was from the recent Batman '66 comic series. The series ended last year and the final compilation volume (voume #5) came out last month. They are doing some one off story lines now, "Batman vs The Man From Uncle", "Batman vs The Avengers" (that the 60's spy show Avengers not the Marvel Avengers).

amazon.com link »

Quoted from Drano:

I also love that you've matched the font. I started looking for the right one a couple of weeks ago but I'm not at the art stage just yet so haven't really worried too much.

There were a couple of fonts used in the opening and ending credits. The adlib one is the most recognized one I think. The "chunky" style made it easier to distract from my poorly hand-cut insert lettering.

http://www.fontspace.com/alan-carr/adlib

#93 4 years ago

Looking good. Nice integration of the TV.

#95 4 years ago

Very nice. Loving the work on the retro tv insert

#96 4 years ago

^^^^ Definitely. PF art looks awesome so far. Keep the updates coming.

#97 4 years ago

outstanding work. really love the art on the playfield.

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

After the paint was dry I cleaned up the edges a little and then printed a cropped section of my playfield art on an 8.5" x 11" clear transparency (I couldn't believe we had these in the supply cabinet at work. I can't think of any reason these still exist in a modern office environment). Here's how it looks with my sample artwork over it. I thinks the TV graphic is much nicer than the original idea of just "Fight Crime Again" in a plain red rectangle.

BEAUTIFUL!

#99 4 years ago

Spell check needed on Batusi!

#100 4 years ago

The other thing you could have done on the tv, is make it more of a console tv with the speakers on both sides that would pass light through the speaker grills.. Just a thought. Looks awesome...

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