(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread

By TigerLaw

7 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

51 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #366 Adding the Batsignal to LE Posted by docquest (7 years ago)

Post #402 Very detailed review Posted by MT45 (7 years ago)

Post #457 DocQuests Helicopter comparison. Posted by docquest (7 years ago)

Post #463 Docquest's vehicle comparison Posted by docquest (7 years ago)

Post #501 Version 0.65 Code released Posted by PiperPinball (7 years ago)

Post #564 Docquest's helicopter install. Posted by docquest (7 years ago)

Post #1159 Adjusting the Magnet Posted by PiperPinball (7 years ago)

Post #1234 Helicopter attachment. Posted by docquest (7 years ago)

Post #1314 Photos of Episode 111 Machine Posted by iceman44 (7 years ago)

Post #1322 Version 0.68 Code released Posted by ATLpb (7 years ago)


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#13326 4 years ago

I haven’y owned any pins for several years, though I love to play. I have 20 arcade games in the garage.

I just paid for the catwoman model. I am pretty pumped!

First thing I want to do is get a few “necessities” .

Plastic protectors? Mezelmods has a set for $30 or less.
New pinballs? I can’t remember who I bought from in the past. Though I thought people said to get good ones, don’t use sterns.

I am probably not modding this up right away, unless there is something as cool as the flasher mod on stern star treks center shot. (I forget the name now).

#13328 4 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

Ball Baron for carbon steel balls
Atomic Pile by Mod Couple to replace that silly stupid pink thing on the turntable , is an absolute must and #1 mod.
Penguin Crane looks so much better with the pink umbrella mod and the undercarriage bracing.

so go with the carbon steel balls at $1.15 each?

reading earlier in this thread, I seemed to see some guys talk about magnet problems. I assume you are telling me to get these based on that knowledge?

thanks!

edit: seriously I have to buy the $180 shipped mod? hahaha. I was (just remembered the name) thinking vengeance mod like on star trek. $20 .

2nd edit: and when you say "penguin crane" is that the $50 crane mod from mezel mods?

3rd edit: so I went with the shooter lane protector, crane upgrade, and plastics protector from mezel mods.

I'm going to hold off on the high end mod until I get the pin.

#13331 4 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

You’ll regret not having the Atomic Pile mod.

I can order it later.

I did get a shaker motor as well.

#13350 4 years ago

hey guys maybe this has been covered, and maybe it's truly the opinion of each owner, but what are you guys doing for pinblades?

I see a few out there.

I don't need 10 links I suppose, I have found a few. I see one style from pingraffix that looks like the city of gotham, and another style that looks similar with some POW , WHAM, BOP, type of words on it.

#13353 4 years ago

thanks, I think I'll order the set and the headphone jack from pinballlife.

#13358 4 years ago

I find that if I spend $20-$200 a day it doesn't seem like I'm putting $9k into my machine all at once.

What are you guys doing (if anything) for button protectors (hand wear)?

I think when I got my star trek pro 6 years ago I bought something clear plastic sheet that stuck to the cab. Is there any super cool batman themed button wear protectors out there?

edit: also are you guys installing those plastic leg protectors on all new sterns automatically? do they come from stern with them? Sorry for being a newbie clown, I just haven't been in the pin-owning scene for awhile.

1 week later
#13460 4 years ago
Quoted from matbkk:

I am happy to join the club with a NIB Catwomen signed delivered yesterday !

geez, guess I should live in Bangkok and maybe I'd get mine faster.

congrats!

My local deliverer called today to deliver tomorrow. I wasn't home, my wife says , nope how about next friday. WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT?

I gotta call them tomorrow and see if I can get it here tomorrow somehow.

#13474 4 years ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

I'm still waiting on the proof of the final plastic version but I went ahead and did a test print as just a vinyl decal to make sure I have size correct etc. I think it turned out well and honestly the decal would probably be just fine but it does lack that shine a plastic one will give. For those that reached out, I will circle back once I see the first one off.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Sign me up for one please. Great work!

#13475 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Hay,TronGuy; any chance you would bring that pin to PAGG in October so we could all see one of these,please????

Possibly. I am out of town a good portion of Oct. and may not be able to attend.

#13502 4 years ago

Ok, its in the house. The only damage to the box is that little wrinkle in the bottom corner of this pic.

I’ll report back later.

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#13504 4 years ago

So i am about 30 minutes into my first plastic protector for the left/right slings. Anyone have insight?

It appears that I need to remove the dome and led strip below it? It wont unscrew. I’ll keep trying.

Edit: got em on. Now on to cliffys, inner side art, or headphone kit.

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#13505 4 years ago

I could use some insight on installing the penguin scoop cliffy.

#13506 4 years ago

Looks like i have a tiny chuck torn up on my playfield.

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#13507 4 years ago

This is the kind of stupid shit that has been happening all day. Either the bolts sent with the shaker motor are 1/4” too short, or I need to move this ground strap, from under where it appears the shaker motor goes. Honestly I may need longer bolts anyway. When I drop them in their holes for testing, 1 or 2 turns and they are tight. When I attempted the shaker motor install over the ground strap, only 1 bolt would tighten. The other 3 spun freely.

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#13508 4 years ago

I had some longer bolts on hand and went with those.

Any reason I would need this conn3ctor with a capacitor ?

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#13510 4 years ago

Ok, I’ve owned the game for 8 hours. It is time to power it on. Got the side rails, most cliffys (gotta do the shooter lane still), plastics, inside side art, crane add on, speaker kit. Maybe more, I’m tired. Gonna play for a bit.

How d9 I set it for freeplay?

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#13512 4 years ago

I installed a shaker motor. It does not currently any capacitor, diode, resistor between it and its connection to power.

#13521 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

OK,this is the first one I've seen,and no pics of the backbox art!!also a Julie Newmar signed Batman Card! So,Stern could possibly put out a Joker,Penguin,Riddler,model with accompanying signed cards!!And by the way,TronGuy,a lot of us got our games totally fubar,right out of box!! I couldn't play mine for three weeks after it arrived cause the turntable was totally broke,among other things!!! Good to see Stern still has NO QC at all!!!! Go Stern

I will get a pic of the side art. The backglass has some fine print saying something to the effect of:

CATWOMAN SIGNATURE EDITION

#13524 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Im curious, for those who have the Catwomen edition, do they all have signed cards by Julie Newmar? Or is it just a select few? Also, did they take the catwomen scenes out that have Eartha Kitt in them?

The first 100 were to get autographed cards.

#13529 4 years ago
Quoted from beefzap:

What method did you use to install the inside side art? Did you remove the playfield?

No, I an a risk taker. I cleaned the sides of the cab with some rapid tac and a paper towel.
Then I pulled the backing off of the pinblades and sprayed the sticky side pretty heavily with rapid tac. Shoved them in the cab with the playfield down and figured it out. I had a hand squeegee ready when needed to flatten the art. At least twice on both sides I yanked it up after 5 minutes because I wasn’t happy with the placement. Another spray down of rapid tac and back in it went.

#13531 4 years ago

What does this mean?

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#13532 4 years ago

Technician alert on 1 ,8,9,10 not initialized.

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#13533 4 years ago

Oh yeah, pic of back box .

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#13534 4 years ago

I also have an : OPERATOR ALERT

TOP EJECT DEVICE MALFUNCTION

The ball isnt registering up in that top scoop.

#13536 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Sounds like maybe a larger molex isnt seated properly.

In the back box I assume?

I’ll check.

Thanks!

I fixed the rear captive ball. The way I installed the tiny square cliffy may have been off. I tweaked the lever to the microswitch as well as installing that cliffy a little better.

#13538 4 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Have you reported this to Stern. This would be a big deal to me.

I sent a picture to classic game rooms (place I bought it from). ignored. He responded to other things.

Maybe this will be obvious to some, but the node boards not responding is because the coin door was openwhich shuts off some HV. When I pulled the interlock (with coin door open), all was back to normal.

#13543 4 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Strange... Does your game have an interlock switch? They removed those switches starting with GOT. My friends Batman does not have an interlock.
Please post a picture of it. Did it came that way from factory? Whats your build date?

I can’t find it now , but I thought I saw a build day of may, 2019.

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#13624 4 years ago

I think my machine came with code update

1.03

Is that the most up to date?

#13631 4 years ago

Can anyone enlighten me on the Titan rubber kit. They have an LE batman66 kit.
That should work for a premium huh?

Or if anyone has better insight as to how I should put an order together, i am interested.

#13643 4 years ago

Playin with the wife. Decent first ball.

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#13668 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Now put the glass back on

nope, legit score. I only made another 300 million on the next 2 balls. But my previous best was just over 1 billion.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Impressive!
What's your strategy to get a score like that?

don't die

I went through a lot of modes, jailed all of the villains, and made it to the wizard mode (I think).

#13731 4 years ago

I just received my Titan rubbers . Again, I am inexperienced in play field maintenance.

I think I can figure out where all of the bug pieces go. I am showing pictures of a dozen or so rubber “post covers”? And a couple thinner looking green post covers and one with a round cap.

The first picture I have a rubber post sitting next to where I think it may go? Am I correct?
If so I figure I can work my way around until I figure it all out.
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#13738 4 years ago

Thanks guys.

And I too had to use longer bolts to mount my shaker. The ones provided were too short.

#13739 4 years ago

Pic of one I replaced with one about to be replaced. The titan one are slightly fatter and shorter, but this appears to be the spot(s) you guys were referring to.

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#13742 4 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Any idea what size....? My shaker motor on the way.... will go buy in advance...

No, I just took one of the short ones with me and matched it once I got to home depot.

It appears that a lot of these rubbers go up on that “spin table”, is there a way I can make it spin freely so I can access each section?

#13743 4 years ago

So seriously? It looks like the entire right catwoman ramp has to come out to install a 3/4” rubber ring?

Also, I’d love insight as to how I can gain freedom of rotation on the spinning playfield so I can change all of the rubbers on there.

#13746 4 years ago

Geez, some of this shit is frustrating. I am trying to install the new back box hinges, and I have to disassemble the entire #$&$@#$ing back box internals to get to a bolt? Come on.

Edit, looks like I have to remove the power cord and assembly as well for the one on the right.
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#13747 4 years ago

Ok I am done with my tantrum. I just had to get the shield off of the AC in power section.

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#13754 4 years ago

maybe this is the wrong place, but these parts did come off of my batman 66.

Is there any resale value in the side rails and back box hinge metals that I pulled off of the game?

#13779 4 years ago

yeah I ended up loosening the lower portion of the wire ramp and centering it a bit, so the ball wouldn't continually drop onto the plastics.

#13795 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

We put a playfield protector on everything we own too. Modern games have far too many playfield issues.

Seriously huh?

How difficult or easy is it?

I can’t believe the game plays the same. I’d love hear some competitive players input on this topic.

#13810 4 years ago
Quoted from jetspeedb:

Whoot in the club. [quoted image]

nope.......you are not in the club until that game comes out of the box!

congrats!

#13835 4 years ago

I am attempting the atomic pile mod install. Any insight as to getting the 2 pin molex disconnected?

There is not a single person on the planet earth with small enough fingers to get in there.
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Edit i got it with 2 sets of needle nose. Not sure I’ll get the new wires plugged in though. I will report back with success hopefully.

#13836 4 years ago

And so I am clear. Do these 2 fromt “legs” just sit in the air as the new pile rests on the bat phone?

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#13837 4 years ago

At power up I am getting no light to the pile. Maybe during game play?
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Edit: nope.

Double checking my connections now.

Double edit. Doesn't work. Maybe at some point during gameplay? I’ll play a game i guess.

Triple edit: It flashes during some of the attract mode, so good enough.

It is my opinion that the tv should be removed during this install.

#13838 4 years ago

On a side note, has anyone had the nerve to change the rubbers on the spinning play field?

#13840 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I just plugged my Atomic pile into the stock wiring. I didnt re route the line. Everything works. I just had a little extra wiring that i tucked under the pile. Am I missing something?

Installing mods is supposed to be difficult and make you question if you even want to keep the stupid machine.
You are robbing yourself of this crucial experience.

#13842 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Yes it only works as the stock one during modes and per the instructions you are supposed to remove the TV if you want to install it. Looking great!

Yeah I am in business now!
At9mic pile, new plastic selector thingy, magnet decal. I am somewhere way over $1000 in mods. I am going to stop now.

#13875 4 years ago

So, dead serious here. Has anyone had the nerve to dive in and change the rubbers on the upper spinning play field?

When installing the rubbers for the bonus multiplier, I accidentally released one of the rubbers behind the right catwoman ramp.

So I need t9 remove that ramp to reinstall that stupid rubber. I’d ignore it , but the ball seems t9 c9me to rest there 100% of the time it goes through the left slot. I may install new rubbers in that spinning play field while I am at it.

But it absolutely looks like it would be easier t9 desconstruct and reconstruct a playfield by memory, than change those rubbers.

#13877 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Yes. I had one snap so I changed them all to Titan. It wasn’t bad at all - 30 minutes and it really isn’t as complicated as it looks. Go slow and you’ll be fine.

So is a complete disassembly of the parts on that spinning play field required? (From the top )

#13880 4 years ago

My questions appear to be endless. This is the last cliffy I need to install. I think it goes under the right rail, but it looks way longer than the piece used in the link of cliffy install pictures I received.
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I assume right under the area with black outline and yellow dots inside?

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#13882 4 years ago

I think I got it.

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#13885 4 years ago

So I need a key piece of insight. I have mentioned this before, and not received any specific responses. Possibly because it is a fool’s errand.

There is a small rubber that connects between the right catwoman ramp and the left bonus rollover. I now know this because when installing the post rubbers onto the bonus rollovers, I released this specific rubber and it CANNOT go back in place without, what I believe is the removal of the right catwoman ramp. This rubbers purpose (I surmise), is to stop the ball from coming to rest up there near the left-most rollover, causing a near tilt to get It back into play.

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#13888 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

The ramp isn't difficult to remove, so might as well get at it.
Rob

Guess I’ll have at it. It looks difficult. If you know off hand....is it like 3 or 4 screws/bolts holding that thing in?

#13893 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Close, it needs to come a little left, closer to the channel, so that the edge of the Cliffys is even with the groove. That edge of the groove is what takes a beating....

that is what I kind of thought, but those bolts hold it virtually it the position it is in. I don't think i could get it squeezed any more over to the lane. The right one, I could possibly wiggle a few millimeters out of.
thanks!

#13902 4 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I am installing mine now.... how did you "bend" that rail up to install the eject protector....?? mine does not want to budge...[quoted image]

It was WORK. I wiggled it back and forth a ton. Got my hand underneath and kept attempting a powerful yet controlled lift so I didnt yank it to the ceiling. Did that for about 10 minutes and it finally came out. Reinstallation was very simple.

#13915 4 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Video...? I dont see the holes for these screws...?[quoted image]

those screw in pretty easily. No drilling required. removing that coil or whatever it is, next to that area makes it much easier to install

#13933 4 years ago

Ok so holding down the left flipper at ball launch, is now NOT opening the gate for the super skill shot.

I go take a look and the gate seems flimsier than I think it should be.

I look underneath, and I believe I am missing a screw/bolt?

The bonus the the fucking rut being dug into my play field due to the flimsy gate.

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#13934 4 years ago

I found the missing screw in the bottom of the cab.

I reinstalled it, but it is basically stripped. It is in there, and “mildly” snug, but its going to fall out again,
In my opinion.

#13936 4 years ago

That is happening with mine as well. I assume it is because I inadvertently removed a rubber from there during other rubber installation. I am now leaning towards getting a huge round rubber ball or something to slam onto a post to keep it from getting stuck.

Edit
That pic looks like you are missing the same rubber that I am.

#13940 4 years ago

Yeah I was going to do something. Maybe a piece of double sided tape over the screw and screw it in.

My concern is the dry river bed in my playfield from that door malfunction.

#13941 4 years ago

so I got the swinging gate mounted properly again, but my super skill shot still isn't working. HOlding the left flipper does NOT open up that gate (different gate than the one that ruined my play field).

#13943 4 years ago

Maybe someone can tell by looking at my pic. Did there used to be a connection the swinging gate, and the little gate that lifts to let the ball through for super skill shot? If so, some piece of metal is broken off and lost somewhere on my playfield.

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#13945 4 years ago

thanks.

I guess I have a separate issue with that little black door not opening up then. sweet

#13946 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Does it open other times during gameplay or during diagnostics test?

guess I need to go find out.

#13948 4 years ago

ok the small black gate lifts in test mode (and I think it was working fine in game play as well).

The playfield destroying ( ) gate works in test mode as well.

The small black gate doesn't lift when I hold the left flipper now, for some reason.

#13955 4 years ago

that is the first I' ve seen of these ramps. How much and are they currently available?

#13963 4 years ago
Quoted from DrBanner:

Hey guys, I was wondering if someone could help me with a solution to this problem on my BM66.
Almost every time I get a 6-ball multiball going, I get a stuck ball just below the top left lane, above the pop bumpers and underneath the back of the top right ramp. There is a little gap there that a ball always manages to nestle into, and then it blocks the rest of the balls from passing through the top left lane and they all get stuck there in a traffic jam. What do I need to adjust to stop the first ball from getting stuck in this spot?
I'll attach a couple images for you, taken from different angles, but both show the spot I am referring to. Sorry they are out of focus, but this should illustrate what I am talking about. The first image is taken from the back of the machine and shows a ball stuck in that spot. The second image is looking into the gap that I am referring to without a ball in it. I can post more images for you, including one with a log jam of balls, if that would be helpful.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as this keeps requiring me to interrupt wizard modes, remove the glass, dislodge the log jam of balls, and ruin my great games. Thanks very much.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I can’t tell from your pic for certain, but I think it is the same issue I had with the ball resting up there. I f8nally got my catwoman ramp out and replaced the rubber that I believe will stop that ball from resting near that left bonus rollover.

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#13998 4 years ago

So a couple of things.

My COMPUTER target doesnt register unless hammered, and thats 50/50. The other one (crime analyzer?), is properly responsive.

I didnt look in there yet. Is that as simple of an adjustment as most leaf switches?

The problem that bugs me most still, is that my left flipper being held at ball launch does NOT open the gate and activate super skill shot. (It used to ). And....... if I hand plunge us8ng the plunger instead of the gadget button, about 1-2 seconds after I launch the ball, the auto launch fires, like it thinks a ball is there.

Any ideas?

Edit: I thought I’d add that in self test all gates seem to work properly. As well as during game play.

#14001 4 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Does the switch in the shooter lane seem to work properly in diagnostics?

Do you mean the one that launches the ball into play? I will go check. It works in every other scenario I believe.

Edit: all seems perfect in test mode. I am also noticing the right of the 2 joker targets is dead. Looking at that now.

#14003 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

When you enter the service menu do you have any Switch Alerts?

Nope.

The left computer target seems imposs8ble go adjust. The right joker target on the spinning play field doesnt work at all. During game play or test mode.
The game is almost unplayable as is,right now. I mean a hack can monkey flip the ball around the play field.

Fucker at stern has gone dark since I showed him the trough in the play field from that faulty upper gate.

#14006 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Reason why I asked is I had a really strange issue with my right Joker target. After making sure it wasnt stuck behind that metal support I noticed that the switch was set to "Out Of Service" in the service menu. I have no idea how it happened. Once I set it back to "In Service" my problem was gone.

I suppose that is possible, but I do NOT have any issues or operator alerts in the service menu. I guess I need to figure out how to see if it is indeed set to "out of service"

#$9000 paperweight

edit: just double checked. Both joker targets are IN SERVICE. One switch (of the 100 or whatever) was out of service. Switch 3. I am not sure what it does, but I played a game with no discernable difference.

#14007 4 years ago

I want some advice on how to proceed, (or if I should even be doing so...maybe my expectations are too high?).....

The small trench in my play field from the upper gate having a manufacturer flaw is a deal-breaker for me. I can't get past it. The screw fell out on the bottom of the swinging gate and it fell onto the play field and went back and forth many many times....and the wood is stripped, so I got the screw back in there, but its a mickey mouse job.

The right joker target doesn't work. It is "in service" but doesn't work even to the touch with the glass off.

Previously I overlooked the little chunk out of my play field (because the cliffy pretty much covers it, penguin scoop), Chas Siddiqui sent a clear coat repair kit.

The computer doesn't register, though it will if I push it hard. Working on that small spinning play field is virtually impossible. Normally I'd think I could adjust something like this, but I cannot unless I remove that spinning play field?

The super skill shot doesn't work any longer.
If I plunge the ball with the shooter rod, the electric launch kicks 1-2 seconds later like it thinks a ball is there.

Am I supposed to ignore all of this? The machine has been in my house for a few weeks.

If my expectations are too high, I will accept that coming from guys on here.

#14009 4 years ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

You have put up with far more than I would have my friend. You are well within your rights to have your distributor get with Stern and remedy most if not all these issues. Perhaps they will send you and entirely new, populated play field that should solve all your issues in one fail swoop... or at the very least, they should be able to resolve all the mechanical/electrical issues you agree having. The cosmetic issues might be a tougher fight but I would ask that it all be addressed. In either case, the machine is under warranty for a full year. Be firm about your expectations but polite in you plea for help.

thanks. I emailed my distributor for the first time today about all of the problems. Chas Siddiqui is basically ignoring me. When I present 4 or 5 problems, I get a response that doesn't even properly address one of them. Ignoring the rest.
A new play field sounds like more work than its worth, unless its a blank and I can keep both and do the swap at my convenience.

I just want my freaking problems addressed in a timely manner. I am not currently getting that. Maybe the distributor can help.

thanks for the advice.

#14011 4 years ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

In the past for some cases, Stern has sent new, fully populated play-fields, meaning all of the parts are already there and connected. All you have to do is unplug the main harness on your current and switch with the new. Hopefully eliminating both your cosmetic and electrical issues. That is what I would push for.

I hear ya, but I have installed:
cliffys (pain in the ass to install, probably easier to remove)
plastic protectors
bat copter
bat signal
titan rubbers (guess I just let those go)

maybe more I have to think about it.

some things are easy to remove some are a pain, some aren't worth the time.

I suppose I could live with that outcome. But I absolutely would NOT send them my playfield first. I'm not being without the game for several weeks. I'd probably pay for the 2nd play field up front and get refunded after mine got sent back.

#14013 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Dude, your expectations are definitely not too high. All the issues you have spoken about really should be sorted out with your distro. It does not sound too bad or very much wrong.
Screws fall out all the time, and a plug may have fallen apart. Your distro should be able to help you through your switch issues. You need those switches to work to enjoy your game.
I think a replacement playfield would be pushing your luck. Some help to get your game sorted should be offered. If Stern or you distro are not keen to help, take some photos and start a thread on Pinside. There are some awesome people on here and will be willing to help out.
Good Luck!

I’ve been through the bottom of the play field fairly thoroughly. If something is disconnected, I haven’t come across it.

A screw falling out I understand, I guess? A screw falling out because it will NOT adhere to the play field worries me a bit more. Said screw (being stripped), falling out, and causing the powerfully flipping upper gate to dig into the play field as it swings back and forth is not acceptable in my opinion. I don’t have an end game, or idea of what is the proper solution, necessarily, but I think one of those cocksuckers should be addressing my issues. Its like they are an insurance company and I am the guy who was injured that they are ignoring/trying t9 deny benefits.

#14025 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Did this yesterday. Cashed in an Egghead for a little over 17 billion.
[quoted image]

amazing!

I am going to have to read up on the rules someone posted (somewhere).

I play for 30 minutes some games, and only get 1 billion.

#14093 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Standard Carbon from the Ball Baron don’t magnetize and are plenty shiny....

False

The balls in my batman66 are magnetized and get stuck on the magnet after it releases almost 100% of the time.

#14105 4 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Have you got anything over the magnet? Mylar perhaps?

ha, yes

that modcouple mod I think. ( I believe its referenced after both your and my post)

thanks

I'll get some for my guns n roses as well (soon)

#14125 4 years ago

Has anybody had luck in adjusting, measuring,working on things in the spinning play field?

Stern is telling me to test a few things , in particular one of my joker targets doesn’t register.

Seems virtually impossible to get a meter in there and do testing?

2 weeks later
#14288 4 years ago

So some of you have seen the issues I've had with my catwoman edition batman 66.
Gouge in my playfield near the penguin scoop, straight from the factory. The fucking upper swing gate screws fall out from under the playfield and the gate falls over and starts gouging a fucking ridge into my playfield every time it opens and closes. I finally realize this and mickey mouse their substandard craftmanship in that area and get that gate to quit destroying my playfield up top.
The entire time I have never had the right joker target working. It doesn't work to the touch with the glass off. The computer target doesn't work.

The super skill shot doesn't work. When I plunge the ball with the plunger (odd fucking concept huh?), 2 seconds later the auto launch attempts to kick a ball out (which obviously isn't there).
Everything tests fine in test mode.

edit: oh yeah

I play several games tonight, and the entire time (20 to 30 times), I hit the targets to hit bat phone. I get it up to 50 million as the reward for hitting the bat phone, only the fucking play field will not rotate to put the bat phone into a position to hit. About a 30 minute game and I never got a chance to hit the bat phone.

#14314 4 years ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

So here is the set I made... its a decal for the Left, Right and Back side of the scoop. vinyl printed decal with poly-carbonate overlay just like graphics on the apron. I actually added a purple scoop illumination to my machine and having that area lit up really highlighted the wear from the ball. I had to come up with something to cover it so it wasn't staring me in the face while I play.
[quoted image][quoted image]

that is cool!
sign me up for a set with your next run.

#14318 4 years ago
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:

I'm sure I can get them down to $10 shipped if you all are interested... could get them made during this week and ship by next if not sooner.

sweet!

It was just a wishful thinking suggestion on my part.

sign me up

#14332 4 years ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Can any Catwoman owner tell me if you have installed a bat signal near the riddler scoop and plugged into the underneath open cable? Does it light for you?
I ask, because i don’t know if my bat signal I just purchased is defective or if a code update makes it not work on Catwoman. I would think it is defective. Please confirm if you have the extra grey toy LE/SLE bat signal working on your playfield.

I did, and yes it works. Though not in every mode. I thought it wasn’t working at first, but I sat and just watched the game for awhile and it kicked on. I would think going into test mode and testing all of the lights could do the job as well?

#14338 4 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

So some of you have seen the issues I've had with my catwoman edition batman 66.
Gouge in my playfield near the penguin scoop, straight from the factory. The fucking upper swing gate screws fall out from under the playfield and the gate falls over and starts gouging a fucking ridge into my playfield every time it opens and closes. I finally realize this and mickey mouse their substandard craftmanship in that area and get that gate to quit destroying my playfield up top.
The entire time I have never had the right joker target working. It doesn't work to the touch with the glass off. The computer target doesn't work.
The super skill shot doesn't work. When I plunge the ball with the plunger (odd fucking concept huh?), 2 seconds later the auto launch attempts to kick a ball out (which obviously isn't there).
Everything tests fine in test mode.
edit: oh yeah
I play several games tonight, and the entire time (20 to 30 times), I hit the targets to hit bat phone. I get it up to 50 million as the reward for hitting the bat phone, only the fucking play field will not rotate to put the bat phone into a position to hit. About a 30 minute game and I never got a chance to hit the bat phone.

ok so Jason at classicgameroom has been working with Chas at Stern and they have agreed to send me a new mini spinning playfield. (deposit required of course). This should take care of the issues I have with the computer target and the joker target. Chas also is sending me a new switch for the ball lane where it sets at the beginning. Hopefully this takes care of the "playability" issues I have.

It does NOT, however take care of the play field issues I have mentioned.

IF the game becomes "playable" , I will probably be happy. I will report back.

3 weeks later
#14411 4 years ago

Has anyone here removed the mini spinning playfield?

I cant get it out. I tried the 6 nuts holding it to the playfield. That didn’t work. I called stern, they said
to just remove the 3 bolts that you’d use to adjust height.

Well that doesn’t work either. That bottom coil is in the way. I can’t see how that is removed because its connected to the metal swinging gate on top. (Yes the same one that gouged a trench in my play field when it malfunctioned).

#14415 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Remove the ball lock gate arm by loosening the set screw on the shaft and pulling the shaft out of the playfield (do this first!). Then you can remove the turntable by removing the 6 locknuts.
Be extremely careful with the opto assembly at the bottom of the unit. When you pull the big assembly out, I recommend removing the opto assembly (2 screws and a connector) so it doesn't get broken.
Rob

I have to go back and look. I assume the set screw is underneath? Then remove the gate and bar from the top, then remove the coil thats in the way. Then the spinning play field. Thanks for the insight. Doesn’t matter now.
Stern is either replacing my entire play field or I’m doing a chargeback and getting a refund.

#14423 4 years ago

So my game still isn't working properly.

The main things that bug me are the fact that the super skill shot doesn't work. If I hold the left flipper , the gate doesn't open to let the ball come around the orbit.

If I hand plunge the ball, the electric plunge attempts to fire the ball again 2 seconds later.

In test mode when I test that gate, it fires. Or lifts. But is does NOT stay up.

Can someone go into test mode and test that upper small black gate, and tell me if it stays open or just clicks open and shut in test?

#14426 4 years ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

Sorry I did not look back at what you have tried in the past, but this really sounds like a plunger lane switch issue to me. Check the switch itself, any diodes it may have (not sure if there are any), and possible shorts, and possibly the entire switch matrix row and column associated with it.

I swapped out the switch with a new one from Stern yesterday, no change. In test mode everything seems to fire the way it is supposed to.

I will explore the wiring chain down the line.

In the mean time if someone can go into test, and check to see if that upper orbit gate stays open, or just flips open and shut during test, it would help me eliminate that portion of my problem.

#14428 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

I just went into test mode; I'm assuming you are referring to the coil test 22, "control gate". It would seem that the gate opens and then closes rather quickly during the test mode; it does not stay open.
I also tried holding the left flipper for the skill shot a couple of times, just to see what's supposed to happen; it would seem that the switch that the ball sits on when it is waiting to be launched needs to open, and then immediately be followed by the closing of the switch that is just before the skill shot lighted arrows in order to make the gate at the top of the orbit open.
My guess would be that something might be amiss with one of those switches.
I hope this helps.

So my gate is good. Maybe its the 2nd switch up the line. Thanks!

#14441 4 years ago

See if this will post. In switch test, the shooter lane, skill shot, and #22 upper gate all work. Ball still won’t go through.

Forget it, I cant load video for some reason.

#14445 4 years ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Do you have a shooter lane protector installed? Or if your shooter lane switch is not seated high enough (meaning it must engage the underside switch fully when the ball flies over it) when the ball transverses over it, it will not properly engage and tell the gate switch to open. Gate switch is fine, it is the shooter lane switch that is your troubled area. Adjust that to protrude higher and you’ll have a gate opening when holding left button for super skill shot.
The gate will not stay open unless beforehand the shooter lane switch has been engaged, while left flipper button is held down.

Yes , shooter lane protection installed. Maybe only 1 of these pics is useful, but the actuator arm is flush with the bottom of the shooter lane. It seems to be maxed out as far as upwardness, sticking out the top.

50431E2E-42BE-4A4D-92E2-A6C3B05E18F7 (resized).jpeg50431E2E-42BE-4A4D-92E2-A6C3B05E18F7 (resized).jpeg7E1BA05B-3BAA-4A85-9D8C-A4F88FE7D727 (resized).jpeg7E1BA05B-3BAA-4A85-9D8C-A4F88FE7D727 (resized).jpegB4FC925E-BA60-4D06-890E-61F352FA7954 (resized).jpegB4FC925E-BA60-4D06-890E-61F352FA7954 (resized).jpeg
#14449 4 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

When you were in test mode and tested the switches which all registered, did you use your finger or a ball? If you used your finger test the switch chain again using a ball to roll over the contacts to see if it is fully depressing it to register.

Finger most likely.

Quoted from Thunderbird:

Shooter lane protector is why it won’t engage underneath. It isn’t about the wire high on top, it is the contact point below at the switch being bent toward the switch itself higher, so contact happens when the ball rolls over topside. To test, take your shooter lane protector off and plunge a ball. The back gate will open for sure. The shooter lane protector is your problem. Adjusting to compensate for adding the extra thickness up top is what you need to do.
My gate wouldn’t open either till I made the underneath adjustment, after installing a shooter lane protector.

So the ball sitting (1mm) higher is not depressing the switch deep enough? Its too much work to remove those protectors for the test. I’ll take your word for it.

What adjustment needs to be made?

#14450 4 years ago

Ha! I slid the right shooter lane protector in a bit and I’m back in business.

For the record, using a ball in test did NOT activate the switch (as previously suggested).

Thanks guys, I’m back in business.

#14453 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Remove the ball lock gate arm by loosening the set screw on the shaft and pulling the shaft out of the playfield (do this first!). Then you can remove the turntable by removing the 6 locknuts.
Be extremely careful with the opto assembly at the bottom of the unit. When you pull the big assembly out, I recommend removing the opto assembly (2 screws and a connector) so it doesn't get broken.
Rob

Well this was a good idea, in theory. The set screw is so tight it will budge. It is stripping the edges if my new allen wrench.

I see Another wasted email to Stern with very little attempt at help in my future.

1 week later
#14496 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

Glad you like what I did; it was a labor of love...lol!
Actually, I've had a couple of inquiries regarding this. I hadn't originally planned to make and sell these, but I suppose I could run off a couple of sets if there is enough interest. It may take a few days, however, as I do have a full-time gig and this would be a spare time project.
I'll sit down soon and figure out what needs to be done and what it might cost, and I'll get back to you.

I'll get on the interest list as well.

1 week later
#14519 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Put my set on tonight....HIGHLY recommend!!!! looks amazing...like the back of the machine should be. Great job!!...mark

I received mine today as well. I can’t wait to put them on this weekend.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Nice to know new BM66 code in the works.....now if I can only get past all 3 seasons.....

I don’t even know how to progress through 1. I think I’ve been on season 3 before but didn’t understand how I got there.

#14525 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Light the 3 TV targets, shoot left orbit to the saucer, pick your poison.....

Does that mean I need to play/finish all of the minor villains to get to season 3?

1 week later
#14590 4 years ago

I am looking for some advice/insight. I finally got the part from stern
so I can finally change the small spinning play field. It won’t come out unless you remove the coil that swings
that gate open and closed , for the skill shot, etc. yes the same one that crap workmanship and quality control, broke on me and dug a trench in my play field.

Anyway the set screw is stuck. I am stripping allen wrench after allen wrench trying to get it out. It took 5 weeks but stern finally sent me a replacement coil (arm?, not sure what its called). The intent is that I’d probably have to destroy this one to get it out.

I am sick of this, I have never played the game as it is intended since I bought it 4 months ago.

Anyway here is a pic. How should I get this out? I’m nit really on board with shooting wd40 in my cab.

C3A04D9E-3B23-4F8F-A5A1-6CF3054795E9 (resized).jpegC3A04D9E-3B23-4F8F-A5A1-6CF3054795E9 (resized).jpeg
#14592 4 years ago
Quoted from Skeets:

Can you remove the coil that fires this plunger, then just let the plunger and hang free, this way you can get the thing out of the playfield to deal with the stuck set screw?

That would be a big nope.

3AC42BAD-DC26-48C4-8A2D-781E06576AD5 (resized).jpeg3AC42BAD-DC26-48C4-8A2D-781E06576AD5 (resized).jpeg
#14594 4 years ago

Well I forced the old turntable out. (Deal with the repercussions later).
The new one doesn’t ‘center’ very well. I’ve adjusted the heck out of it. I’m afraid to power it up
the way it sits right now.

AE5EB170-C0A3-482E-AD5A-6A2465812D12 (resized).jpegAE5EB170-C0A3-482E-AD5A-6A2465812D12 (resized).jpegFF00B1F8-789F-4ACE-B754-1B32C991BF35 (resized).jpegFF00B1F8-789F-4ACE-B754-1B32C991BF35 (resized).jpeg
-1
#14595 4 years ago

Well, this "new" play field is worse than my original. IT has too much play relative to the centering pin. That is why it won't center.
It does not spin in test mode. One little board was damaged somewhat in shipping, this could be the cause.

Anyway, now my machine went from playable but not perfect to completely unplayable.

Stern is sending me another mini spinning play field. So I get to change the fucking rubbers on a new playfield , atomic pile, etc. and.. I still have a trench in my play field from the first quality control malfunction and a chunk o fart missing near the penguin scoop.

awesome. IT's a good thing I"m not going to pagg, some stern guys would be spitting teeth.

#14609 4 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Hey guys. I received a BM66 from stern. I went to go install my speaker light kit mod, but I noticed that the little mini screws they holds down the LCD screen are basically all stripped from the factory! I was able to work 1 out after 20 minutes but I’m afraid if I even try the others after seeing how tight the first one was, would completely ruin the heads.
Does anyone have any advice? I want to put my new kit on there to match my other games but it doesn’t seem possible.
Should I call stern to complain? Will they send me a replacement folding down lower panel if I send them back the one in my game?
What happened to hand tightening such a small screw?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Stern is a joke and their quality control sucks. Not surprising. I’d recommend emailing them for 4 months and Accomplishing nothing.

1 week later
#14688 4 years ago

I have the catwoman edition. 100% grab by the magnet. I also have some sticker mod laid down.

1 month later
-8
#15070 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Here is Steve Ritchies take on it

That guy is a fucking idiot.

Should I post pictures of 25-30 year old games with 10,000 plays and zero dimples?

It is ok if it drives you crazy. But get off the weed, make a fucking decent playfield, and shut up.

#15079 4 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Doubt it.
Now in reality, there is so much dimpling on that PF that it actually smooth out and they aren't noticeable any longer unless you look from an angle with good lighting.

Wrong

My eyes work good enough to see if there are 1 million little dents or not. Further confirmation that anybody can confirm is looking at every inch of the playfield that never really sees a ball. I have removed every single part from the playfield for cleaning. I think anybody can tell the difference.

Moving on.

Good day!

#15080 4 years ago

On the bright side, my 5 month old game (catwoman premium) that has never played correctly and has been completely out of commission for the last 2 months has the 2nd spinning playfield arriving today. (Quality control issues on the original and 1st replacement). Maybe I will playing again soon.

#15124 4 years ago

Well I finally received my 2nd mini spinning playfield. Owned the game for 4 months, haven't played it in 2 awaiting this part. Prior to that it never played correctly.

First thing was to transfer the little metal shields and change in some titan rubbers.

Now the game seems to be working 100% finally.

For kicks here are pics of the rubbers stern felt like putting on this new play field.

4A0193DF-8C14-471E-8CB0-8B33BE289F34 (resized).jpeg4A0193DF-8C14-471E-8CB0-8B33BE289F34 (resized).jpegC47FA0BD-F632-49B1-BD9E-97C8DCCA7A7B (resized).jpegC47FA0BD-F632-49B1-BD9E-97C8DCCA7A7B (resized).jpeg
#15129 4 years ago

They fabbed a brand new spinning mini playfield, and put these rubbers on it. I hate to call them rubber, they would crumble in my hand if I squeezed them.

#15133 4 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Oh my.
Congrats on a finally working turntable though. I bet you're going to enjoy the game a HELLUVA lot more now!

That was short-lived. 10-20 games in and neither joker target works. I am getting a joker target 2 error (switch 78 iirc).

#15139 4 years ago

hey guys so on my "new" mini spinning upper playfield, every single time I hit a ball around the right side to lock for multi-ball, the ball kicks out of the lock area, and into the 3 skill shot rollovers. Neither of the other 2 mini play fields ever did this.

Has this been a problem for anyone else? If so, was there a solution?

I am thinking of installing (with some double sided tape), some type of dampener, so when the ball hits that wall, it doesn't kick off with as much force. bad idea, good idea?

thanks!

#15142 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Right away or does it start a ball search first? Those lock switches are notorious for needing some kind of adjustment so they close when the ball is resting on them.
Rob

More like....I shoot the right orbit, the ball goes into the lock, and then immediately bounces out, back toward the 3 rollovers. It won’t stay in the locked area.

I never had this problem with the other 2 units.

#15144 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

There is a white, nylon up-post that holds the balls in the lock. It should always be up except when the turntable turns to release balls. Even the ball search rotates the playfield to release balls so I think that post is your problem.
Rob[quoted image]

thank you for taking the time to respond.

That post is functioning properly. it's more like it never makes it down to that post in a resting position. It comes in hot, bounces off of the metal wall and kicks back out the direction it came.

#15152 4 years ago

Ok maybe someone can help me make sure I am understanding things correctly. I sure think I am, but ....

My mini spinning play field, the right joker target has NEVER worked. I just pulled it out again. The tabs of the leaf switch on the right
joker target are shorted to each other. Meaning I get a beep and like 1.6 ohms. The left target this is not the case. It beeps when I actually push the target, but not when it sits idle.

Somehow I manage to get the right joker target mostly removed, and there is not a single piece of that leaf switch touching each other. If I had a wiring issue down the line, wouldn't both targets be shorted to each other, or non functional? I guess it's possible that the leaf switch is bad, but it's just 2 pieces of metal, haha, how can it actually be bad?

So I go over to the 2 bat phone targets. They test out how I would expect them to. The tabs have no continuity until I push the target.

#15153 4 years ago

Well I tested my own question on another unit. There should not be continuity on the previously mentioned switch. Now I need to track it down. Maybe its in the molex.

#15154 4 years ago

Ok, well I took the freaking leaf switch, mounting bracket, everything apart on that stupid right joker target.

I have drawn the conclusion that it is a manufacturer defect. By an 1/8" or less. But the target does not sit high enough.

It gets caught/stuck on the edge of the playfield and sticks the leaf switch closed. I tried shaving down the plastic a little with a razor blade, but not enough yet. If it were 1/16" higher it would be fine. (I think).

1 week later
#15187 4 years ago

I received a replacement set of joker targets from stern.

I am going to replace the right target today. I will have the rotating mini play field out.

I have pulled this target once before, what I believe must have been the hard way. Haha

If anyone has advice on an easy way to pull this right joker target, I’m all ears.

#15197 4 years ago

Ok it went smoother this time around. I have a few pics. I will probably update a description a little later. I am posting from my ipad, and I hate typing more than necessary from it.

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#15199 4 years ago

Ok, I have been working on this for almost 6 months now. My right joker target is still an issue. I will mention that I switched back to my original upper mini spinning play field (catwoman edition), because the POS they sent me is highly used, from the original bm66, and the right target constantly gets stuck.

So I get replacement joker targets and install them today into my unit.

No dice. The right target won't register. Everything is soldererd in perfectly. When I test the target/leaf with my meter, it's open until I push the target and then I get the beep. So it is functioning properly.

I should mention the left target works.

So I measure for continuity between the 2 targets, seeing as it's really just one input being split out into 2 targets.

I don't have continuity between the 2 brown wires. I have continuity between the black/yellow wires on the 2 targets.
So I pull up the other unit I have on hand , for testing, to make sure I am not going crazy.

Both brown wires have continuity, and both black/yellow wires have continuity between the 2 targets.

So I figure crap, I guess I will just run a jumper wire between the 2 brown wires of the 2 joker targets . So I go through that process, now:

neither target registers in test mode.

Neither switch is stuck closed, if I put my meter on either of the switches 2 points, and then hit the target , it then beeps.

Everything is now operating in a way in which I believe should allow it to work perfectly.

Only both targets are behaving like the bad, right target.

Ideas?

#15200 4 years ago

There is a little pcb that the wires from the targets plug into.

On the working (original bm66) mini playfield, there is one brown wire, and one brown/black wire.
The brown is for the joker targets, the brown/black is for an internal target on the playfield.

On my non functioning right joker target playfield(catwoman version), there are 3 wires entering that same pcb.
One brown/black for the internal target on the playfield, and the other two I assume is from the joker targets. I am not sure why this is different, but it appears to either be a mistake, or that the intent was to have separate inputs for the two joker targets.

D95A3D9B-B2A9-4BAC-8FA1-1BAEA302592D (resized).jpegD95A3D9B-B2A9-4BAC-8FA1-1BAEA302592D (resized).jpegA1B19BC5-A462-402A-9B8F-B86F3122D065 (resized).jpegA1B19BC5-A462-402A-9B8F-B86F3122D065 (resized).jpeg
#15203 4 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

This mech is complicated at the best of times, I found out recently while adding the @modcouple batphone replacement and atomic pile mods that my turntable was wired up differently to another one here in the U.K. everything worked correctly in test and was wired up correctly but the connectors and wires themselves where different. Where his batphone was yellow/blue/yellow into a molex mine was brown/blue.
Both LEs where made at the same time, hell likely made together as they where replacement playfields at the time specifically put on the line for us.
At this point tronguy I’d get Stern to send you either a full replacement populated playfield you can swap in to your game or an entirely new turntable mech, personally I’d go for the entire playfield much easier to unplug the two cables and pull playfield.

I’ve been at this for over 6 months, and had 2 mini playfields sent. Both sucked worse than my current one.
Additionally, I have changed out the rubbers, metal computer rear shield mods, atomic pile, 5 times now between the different mini playfields. I’m SICK of doing that.

Somehow I managed to get my meter leads in there for testing. One joker target is one of the wires in the molex, the other joker target is the other wire in the molex (pictured with the extra wire previously). They do NOT have continuity with each other.

Here is another pair of pics , one shows two wires coming out of the right joker target (hence continuity between the two joker targets), the other pic does not have the two wires coming out. Meaning they are NOT wired together and hence the bottom line root of my right joker target problem. (Catwoman miniplayfield)

16D3EF92-6BB2-4B4E-B024-E8AB0F61F59F (resized).jpeg16D3EF92-6BB2-4B4E-B024-E8AB0F61F59F (resized).jpeg14F2F827-D5F5-44C0-B97E-B4789F7DF4EA (resized).jpeg14F2F827-D5F5-44C0-B97E-B4789F7DF4EA (resized).jpeg
#15205 4 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

On early BM66 games each joker target had its own switch, on later models (most definitely Catwoman editions as they where last on line) the joker targets where swapped out to a single switch set up.
I can’t see how it’s possible as it would surely register “something” but I wonder if your getting sent out original 2 switched mini playfields and your playfield being a Catwoman is only wired looking for one switch/harness from the turntable, i doubt even stern know as I said above my playfield was wired up completely differently to another I know was on the line at the same time!

Well my catwoman mini playfield has 2 separate wires for the joker targets entering different positions on what I now have identified as node board 10.

Looking in the manual, I am seeing what I already spent the last few hours figuring out. Only pin 3 at CN12 should be used for the joker targets. Mine is using pin 3 and 4. That must be why when I jumpered them together earlier neither worked. It got confused.

I think.....logically, I should be able to just cut that wire at position 4 on CN12 on node board 10, and then jumper the two joker targets together and be in business once and for all. If my logic is flawed, by all means speak up.

11FC2E84-45D4-4025-B52E-F91475ECD7AE (resized).jpeg11FC2E84-45D4-4025-B52E-F91475ECD7AE (resized).jpeg
#15207 4 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Before cutting any wire, do you have alligator clips? If so use a pin and back out the mole x pin on CN4 from the plug, then use two alligator clips on a wire attach one to the mole x pin from CN4 and the other on the wire itself at CN3 and tighten it down closed hard it should bite into the wire to make contact and then test it. This was if your theory is right you then can make permanent changes. Might be a little more time & work but it will save headaches if it shouldn't be that way.

I can't figure out how to get that molex, unplugged from its position. (CN12 we are both talking about correct? positions 3 and 4)?

#15209 4 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Yeah I fixed my original statement lol after I just read it again. The mole x pins are held in place where the mole xpin as a tit on it that rises into the plug that you can see on one side of it. You should see the tine metal are, use some sharp and small, pin xacto etc and press the metal are downward into the plug and gently pull the outwards from the plug. Then use an alligator jumper from that wire to the other joker plug wire and clamp the alligator onto the wire and make snug it with a pliers so it makes it bite enough for contact.

Nobody on the planet can do any of that without disassembling the entire mini playfield. I am either going to cut the wire, or drive to stern with the pin, and I will physically make someone eat this pinball machine.

#15211 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

My BM66 was made in October 2018 and it still has separate joker targets. I think it was perhaps a production mistake rather than intentional change because it happened near the end of the run. I don't see any advantage to wiring both switches together over having separate switch lines.
Rob

Well aside from them them actually fucking working. That would be a nice advantage.

#15216 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

Heres some pictures from mine if its any help.
The three switches in that area connect to three connections on CN12 on mine.
Blk/Yel go to all three.
If you can handle the hassle to rewire the two front joker ones individually it may sort the problem out.
There could be a slip up in the new code not taking into account to all the older wiring
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for taking the pics. Black/yellow is the ground going to all 3 targets. The problem is actually that the joker targets are wired individually, instead of together.

Quoted from wrb1977:

I have been following this thread as I also own a Catwoman edition. If my memory serves me correctly, aren’t you also the same person that had the ball lock gate come loose soon after you got it and gouge the playfield? If so, no one should have to deal with the amount of issues you have had on a brand new pin and I feel you are definitely entitled to a new populated playfield to drop in and finally start enjoying the game as it is fantastic! Sorry you are going thru all of this.

Yeah that was awesome! Plus the chunk of art missing next to the penguin scoop, right out of the box. The cliffy mostly covered it.

#15218 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

Looking at at your pictures you have two tan wires on one of the leaf switches which I dont have.
This suggests you have a loop through and only one wire tan is connected to both switches.
This would cock things up if you had a duff switch.
I have a tan wire per joker switch going to pins 3 and 4 of CN12
I suggest you separate the tan wires and connect each to their own inputs on CN12

My machine has a tan wire coming from each joker target, one going to position 3 and a separate tan wire going to position 4 on CN12. My machine doesn't work.

The other spinning playfield (which actually works), ties the 2 joker targets together and ONLY enters CN12 at position 3. Exactly how the manual describes that it should be .

#15232 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

So why have you not changed to to the same wiring combination as your working one?

Do both of your targets work? You appear to have the same wiring as I do.

#15241 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

Yep both work.
In the service show up as Joker target 1 & 2, SW9 and SW10
Have you done a switch test?

For the last 6 months, yes.

#15245 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

So did it stop working since the last firmware update?
I would test the connector that the switch are crimped to and see if they work ok.
If needed make an extention so that you can test easier.
If the switches work Ok then you have a Node 10 pcb fault.

The right joker target NEVER worked, from day 1.

I have been through 2 different spinning play fields, changed between the 3 of them multiple times, moving rubbers each time, computer shields (mod), etc.

I received a new set of joker targets from stern 2 days ago. I immediately installed the new right joker target.

Still doesn't work, so now I try to actually poke around in side the mini playfield (as difficult as that is).

Bottom line, as I have outlined,
The left joker target works
The right joker target does NOT.

The ground wires have continuity between them and do the node board
The joker targets do NOT have continuity between them.

The left joker target (WORKING), is entering position 4 of CN12 on the node board 10 in the spinning play field
The right joker target (NON WORKING) is entering position 3 of CN12 (this was tested for continuity between target and node board is how I draw this conclusion)

The manual says that the wires should be tied together and both entering postion 3 of CN12 (confirmed by Chas at Stern)

So either both wires entering 3 and 4 separately is confusing for the programming, or possibly the 17 times I measured continuity I made a mistake all 17 times and the working target is actually entering position 3. (seems unlikely).

#15247 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

If you go under switch alerts does your display look like the symbol I have circled in the pic below? If it does that means switch #77 (the right joker target) is "out of service". You can actually disable and enable that switch in the service menu. It must be "in service" or that target wont register.
[quoted image]

Somehow people at stern are not aware of this. I will go try.

#15248 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

If you go under switch alerts does your display look like the symbol I have circled in the pic below? If it does that means switch #77 (the right joker target) is "out of service". You can actually disable and enable that switch in the service menu. It must be "in service" or that target wont register.
[quoted image]

Just checked it is not as you have pictured. I will scroll around anyway .

#15252 4 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

If you go under switch alerts does your display look like the symbol I have circled in the pic below? If it does that means switch #77 (the right joker target) is "out of service". You can actually disable and enable that switch in the service menu. It must be "in service" or that target wont register.
[quoted image]

well, no luck

any combination of turning on/off target 1 and 2 d oes not ever make target #2 register.

#15270 4 years ago
Quoted from Vimtoman:

tronguy If you can make a cable to plug into CN12 you could test the inputs to verify its a Node 10 problem or target problem.

Looks like a node board problem.
They are sending me a replacement. I am going to have to go look and see what repkaci g that entails. I imagine its not fun.

Well on the bright side, after paying for this game 8 months ago, Albeit with a new trench dug into my play field, art near the penguin scoop missing, oh and $2000 in mods, I may actually get to play a game on here soon.

#15274 4 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

$2000 in mods...??? WOW

Maybe its $1500? I don't care to relive the absolute waste of money into a machine that I haven’t been able to play properly yet.

Yeah so it must have been shipped with the bad node board since it hasn't worked since day 1.

#15283 4 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

Indeed it is not. My node board #10 blew out a week after I got my machine last April (one of the Adam West 50). My distributor and Stern were great about getting me a replacement. It is a task to get the board out and a new one in, but considering the experience you have gained through all of your other repairs, you should be able to get through it with some patience.
Also, very important!! Make certain that the DIP switch is placed in the correct configuration BEFORE you install the new node board!!
Good luck, and please continue to keep us posted with this.

well another week and a half and nothing. I email these guys at stern(multiple times), no response. Finally after calling 3 times and sitting on hold for awhile I get through today. Chas says the node board hasn't shipped yet. He had previously told me it could ship thursday, Jan 2.

It is going to be a very very bad day for one of these guys at Cax, or golden state pinball festival, if this isn't handled by then.

a very fucking bad day

#15285 4 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Jan 2 as in last Thursday?

Yep, but nope, nothing even moving. Guess I mean something when I say it.

I expect others to be held to their word as well.

#15287 4 years ago
Quoted from wrb1977:

I’m confused...he told you today that it could ship January 2nd?

nope 7 or 8 or 10 days ago he told me that.

YOu still confused?

#15290 4 years ago

Ok I received the node board for the spinning play field today.

I decided to NOT change it yet and go with my theory of cutting wires, and soldering other wires.

So I clipped wire in position 3 of CN12. Then I ran a jumper between the 2 joker targets. Works perfect. I do get a

JOKER TARGET 1 operator alert if I go into test mode, but who cares. Having that node board on hand gave me a feeling of "back up" if needed. I may still go in and change it , and rewire it properly, but I'm not in a hurry to do that.

Today is the first day since I bought the game in May (received it in June IIRC), that the game has worked properly. Probably gonna sell it now. I'm sick of Stern and don't think I will ever put another quarter in a stern game, let alone buy another one.

1 week later
#15347 4 years ago

My latest pick up.

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2 weeks later
#15473 4 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Do you think there will be another code update? I think the game is more than complete in terms of code. But Lyman is known for updating code even years later. He seems like he can’t stop ^^
Maybe a generic question to current owners.
What would you guys like to see changed in a future update or maybe even added in the future.
It’s a shame I still down own the game. Always had a blast playing it on location. Until the game got moved to another location. If it wasn’t so expensive I would have bought it, no doubt.

Ball save after a locked ball (for a couple of seconds) When launching the next ball. Ball save when the magnet shoots your ball down .

2 months later
#15763 3 years ago
Quoted from crazypinballguy:

I’d like to add the batwing side rails but everybody that’s reputable looks to be out of stock.
I did find this curious website listing with a “too good to be true price”.
https://www.wbstrade.top/arcade-table-games-c-7_10/stern-batman-66-pinball-bat-wing-side-armor-p-3654.html
Anyone know where else I could find these rails? They don’t need to be powder coated. I can have that done myself.
Thanks for any info.

I will have to look to see where I bought mine. I think I paid around $300 for them.

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