Quoted from bicyclenut:
I just ordered a B66 from Marco and won't get until after the Golden State Pinball Festival the weekend of May 17. I will take it home after the show. I've already been buying all kinds of mods and add on's for the game. Can someone educate me on the Batman and Robin topper? Are they not available for purchase? Or are they not making them anymore? Does anyone have one for sale?
The Batman and Robin topper were exclusive to the LE and SLE versions of the pin; alas, these were not available as a separate purchase.
I just ordered one this week; the distributor that I'm getting it from has 6 of them in stock (well, 5 now!), all of them signed.
Woohoo! Joined the club yesterday!
I didn't have too much time to play it as of yet, but I can't wait to really dig in!
Quoted from tp:
What's the build date on that bad boy? I'm looking to get one also.
Build date on this one was November 30, 2018; it was loaded with 1.01 (which I upgraded to 1.03 last night). I believe the "A" on the box indicates that it was one of the ones that had the Adam West autographed cards in it.
I've had BM66 for about a week now, and I'm really digging this game! So many different ways to play, no matter what your skill level.
I am, however, having a small issue regarding the mini spinner/batcave, though. It works fine when I have a strong hit, either going through and coming down the left side or bouncing straight back out, but sometimes on a weaker ball, it will get caught on the back edge of the mini spinner; it seems that the forward/downward pitch of the playfield is causing the back of the spinner to raise ever so slightly, causing a lip for the ball to get stuck on. I noticed that there was some play on the spinner, as I could rock it back-and-forth a bit. I lifted the playfield and saw that there is a shaft that has a set screw on it, so I loosened it, pushed it to the point where there was less play, and tightened the screw. It was a bit better, but the ball occasional still gets stuck.
Has anyone else run into this, and if so, what did you do to rectify it? (Thanks in advance!)
Quoted from Rob_G:
The only inconsistent shot on my game seems to be the target inside the bat cave. Does anyone else see inconsistent hit behavior on this target?
I've been noticing this one now as well. I nailed the shot twice in succession and both times it didn't register. I guess I'll have to look into that one too.
So I was making a leveling adjustment to the mini playfield turntable, as per previous posts here, as I had one side (batphone) a bit higher than the others. After I made the adjustment and powered it back on, I see this:
Of course, this is a cause for concern. It attempted a reboot by itself, but the same message popped up. I power-cycled a couple of times, but still the same message.
Next I went into service mode, and ran the bus test and board test. This is what I encountered:
I lifted the playfield, and it would seem to me that the board is receiving power (green and red LEDS are lit; of course, if the one that's red is not supposed to be, then that would indicate something). I checked the cables running to the board as best as I could (it's a tight fit in there!), but the error persists.
If anyone has any advice about this, I'd certainly appreciate. I truly hope that a board replacement is not in my future, as this looks like a real bear to get into.
Quoted from crwjumper:
Looks like you probably knocked a connector loose on the board under your turntable. Check those connections. I know that they are not easy to access - have fun!
Yes I thought as much. I went back over it again this morning, and confirmed that all connections are good.
In the meantime, I had written to Stern yesterday about this, and heard back from Chas this morning, who said that from what I was describing, the node board is probably bad (the indicator lights suggested that the board was receiving power and that the connection was good). So I wrote to my distributor and requested a replacement board, at Chas's direction.
Hopefully I'll be up and running and catching criminals again soon!
Quoted from rotordave:
Right! My crane had got less sensitive, and had pretty much stopped registering up the top left side. So I decided to get to the bottom of it, and give you guys the tip on how to do it ...
I've bookmarked this; thanks so much for taking the time to research and post this procedure!
Well, I'm happy to report that I'm back up and running again, thanks to Chas and my distributor. I received my replacement Node 10 board yesterday; it took me about 1 1/2 hours to complete (which I didn't think was too bad for a novice, but I have no desire whatsoever to have to ever go through that procedure again!).
Just a tip in case you ever need to do the same thing; make absolutely certain the set the dip switch into the correct position. I remembered to do this at the last minute, as it surely would have sucked if I hadn't.
Quoted from Chambahz:
If there's one thing that I find is nearly always a letdown with Stern games, it's the manual and/or auto plunger mechs.
My luck with NIB games and getting these things to work properly is not so good.
I noticed both of these were less than adequate with the game I picked up last weekend (second hand though, not NIB this time).
A friend of mine (at least he used to be before he put up the GC this evening) had some various shooter rod springs that made all the difference on the manual plunger. We ended up using one that's like the second strongest? -and it's awesome. The ball finally rockets around the orbits when you perform the super skill shot (holding down the left button). Previously it struggled to make it all the way around the orbits to the left flipper.
The auto plunger was simple to fix (it was also weak. Seemed to bounce around alot in the lane and lose steam.) -we just adjusted the power setting in the game option. (Option 270 if I'm not mistaken)
Anyway, some pretty basic stuff for most of you guys I'm sure, but hope it's helpful for anyone who's also frustrated with the stock shooter rod springs (green?) that are included wth the game.
Quoted from Budman:
Both my auto and manual plunger suck right out of the box. Auto plunger is eradic and the manual feels rough and weak. So, you increased the auto setting and changed the spring? What spring do I buy and where?
I've had my NIB BM66 for about 2 1/2 weeks now, and I can honestly say that the plungers on mine are not a problem; manual is good and strong, and auto gets the job done as well. Do you have early production games perhaps? Maybe this was something that was addressed during later runs?
Quoted from RDReynolds:
This may be a silly question but what does the gadget button do? I know it works in test mode but I’ve never seen it do anything in the game (ie when I hit it when it’s flashing).
It is especially useful when playing the minor villians; almost a necessity in my experience.
In Vireland's post with the photos above, in regard to the third picture from the top (the one with the shot of the playfield at an angle), I noticed that there are small little dimples on the surface. I have the same marks on my playfield as well (I've owned my BM66 since this past April). As this was my first NIB machine, I was wondering if this is normal wear and tear for a new machine like this? I'm thinking the playfield surface must be kind of soft to be leaving dimple marks like this.
On a side note, I got my first Batusi yesterday; man, that was wild!
Quoted from DeathHimself:
Actually there are a lot more dimples if you look further up towards the Carousel the dimples are even closer together...
Yes, I have indeed noticed this on mine.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
This is normal, steel ball wood surface something is going to give. Over time after many 1000's of the plays the surface will become pretty much compressed all over and they will be less noticeable again. It really don't matter how hard they clear coat etc.... dimples will happen not a matter of if but rather when.
Thanks so much for this info; as I said, this was my first NIB, and I wasn't entirely sure if this was a normal state of affairs. Thanks for clearing that up; I feel much better!
Quoted from DeathHimself:
...novus polish, then I wax afterwards with pure carnauba wax on top and rubber changes.
When you say carnauba wax, can I assume that you mean anything that you would normally use on a car, like Maguiar's and such?
BTW, I used Novus 2 on the playfield yesterday (I noticed that it is part of the maintenance kit from Stern), and holy smokes, does the ball fly around now! I can only imagine what a coat of carnauba will do...
Quoted from flynnibus:
Easy on spike 2 games.
Slide the PF up into the service position where it's pulled forward. Open the backbox and remove the translite. Two RJ-45s will come from the lower cabinet up to the spike CPU board in the backbox. The right hand one will goto the PF. Unplug from the CPU board, and free it from the black wire loom. You'll have to cut the white zip ties around the loom. Free it from the bundle where the harness meets and undo the connectors to the wiring harness that connects to the PF. PF should be free now.
With help, or by yourself.. grab the PF from the base of the back, and from the front of the PF.. and lift the back up up till the PF is up out of the cabinet, pickup and walk the PF out foward out. Easy to pull out cleanly. You could also tilt it up and just pull upright.. but I found holding it horizontal was easier and allowed me to lay it down too.
When you goto put it back in, simply do the reverse. I do suggest you use protection on the sides of the cabinet tho when installing, to avoid scratches by not being square. putting the front of the PF on the lockbar area using the brackets like its in the service position helps you align and lower it as well.
Simply feed the RJ-45 cable back in the loom and replace zip ties.. and done.
Thanks so much for this; I was looking for just this very thing! I have a friend who purchased the Stern art blades, so this should make installing those a snap now (I learned the hard way on my own machine; what a bear to install with the playfield in!)
Quoted from flynnibus:
Do yourself a favor and just buy these now.... they are so worth it even for the piece of mind when doing stuff
I hate the price.... but they really do work well
Done and done! I bought those at the same time as the pin blades. Yeah a bit overpriced, but I put 'em on every time I lift the playfield now.
Yes, they do the job.
Quoted from TronGuy:
So a couple of things.
My COMPUTER target doesnt register unless hammered, and thats 50/50. The other one (crime analyzer?), is properly responsive.
I didnt look in there yet. Is that as simple of an adjustment as most leaf switches?
I recently had a similar problem with my Computer target; it is indeed the typical leaf switch. You might need to rotate the turntable in order to get it into a position that is accessible, but it can be done.
I suspect the Joker target would require a similar approach to repair.
OK, here's one that I haven't seen before...
I was just playing a game when I sent the ball to the Batcave, and suddenly this happens:
Naturally, I immediately turned off the game, took off the glass, and removed the spinner to find this:
It would appear that the weld on the on the spinner arm snapped right off.
I guess I'll need to get in touch with my distributor and Chas about this.
Quoted from DudeRegular:
That stinks man. Hopefully you can get the parts quickly.
I'm hopeful that will happen; I had an issue with a node board a couple of months back, and Chas and my distributor handled it quickly.
To follow up a bit further on this, I had a heck of a time getting that set screw loose; I suspect some Loctite had been put on it. I finally did get it loose (twisting up an Allen wrench in the process), but the broken cylindrical part that remained wouldn't budge. I really didn't wish to try to get it off while in the machine, so lifted the playfield and removed the entire spinner assembly:
I needed to snip that tie holding the wiring harness the remove the unit. After that, I removed the electronic boards, and was left with this:
I removed the chopper wheel and the magnetic attractor brackets. I then opened my vise to accommodate the width of the shaft. I then put that broken cylindrical part on top of the vise, tapped on the shaft gently with a small hammer, and finally got it loose.
Now I'm reassembling the entire assembly to put back in the game while I await the new spinner arm.
Quoted from JMCFAN:
yup. whiter interlock switch on the coin door. Pull it out all is good! Thks all!!
I find this interesting; I wonder what might have happened during production of this (or any other) machine to all of a sudden now add an interlock switch? I've owned a couple of Whitestars in the past, and they both had the switch. Also, at what point did these switches disappear, and why?
Quoted from Rody:
Aircraft stripper, 30 minutes, and a putty knife will take it off. Makes blasting the part a five minute job for the powder coater.[quoted image]
+1 to that. That stuff is hella powerful. I've used it in the past to strip paint off of Matchbox cars that I restored. Works in minutes, so for your purposes, you can't go wrong. You can find it in most automotive supply stores.
Quoted from LouMatt:
Not sure if this been mentioned in here, but does anyone else have trouble seeing the right orbit arrow when it's lit because the crane in it's home position is blocking the view? All the time, I'm like 'Why hasn't this mode ended? Oh yeah, that insert's probably lit'. Might just be the way I stand when I play.
Yes, I've experienced this also, especially when I first got the pin. Alas, that is a design issue. It might have been better if they had positioned the arrow a bit further up that right lane, so that the crane wouldn't block it.
BTW, if anyone is interested, Batman is currently streaming for free on the Roku Channel. If you have a Roku streaming device, just add the Roku Channel app and you can watch the entire Batman series whenever you like.
I had some time on my hands this summer, so I decided to add some mods to my BM66. I really liked Docquest's projector and playfield Batsignal mods, so I decided to make my own using his posted DIY threads, as I really enjoy putting things together. I made some of my own minor variations on the theme, and I think they came out great; they really add a lot.
I also added Vireland's fan mod, also following his DIY posting. The OE fan didn't really bother me all that much, but I could see how others might feel differently, especially if you have multiple new Stern machines running at the same time; that might be annoying. I picked up a couple of the recommended fans when I was ordering electronic parts for the Docquest mods, and constructed a fan just for fun. I installed it, and I must say that the difference is astounding. Now you can barely hear the fan running when the game is on; I would very highly recommend this addition if the fan noise is too much for you.
Thanks to Doc and Vireland for their work on these and for posting and sharing the DIY threads with our community. A special shout out to Doc for his guidance to me with the projector.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
From what I can hear in the video, that sounds pretty much the way mine does and just about every other one I have seen and heard. They have a gritty sound to them.
I would have to concur; mine sounds the same. I have rotated the mini playfield many times with the main playfield up, and that's what I hear.
Naturally, it will be somewhat muffled with the playfield down and the glass on.
No worries there; everything is as it should be.
Quoted from Rozeks:
I've got a fairly significant chip in the coat (with exposed wood/art flaked) in one of the riddler orbits. Just showed up one day. Stern has been *great* in responding, and I'm waiting for a (currently backordered) replacement playfield. I've been told this can take some time. Will do the swap once it has arrived, and I *may* consider trying a playfield protector for my next one. I don't have them on any of my other machines, but this machine is special in our house, and I truly believe it's going to ultimately be viewed as an all-time great.
Glad to hear that Stern is helping you out with this; I think we would all be curious to see a picture if that's possible.
Although I don't have one myself, I think after your experience it would be a good idea to consider putting on a playfield protector. Frankly, I don't like how mine has "dimpled", but I live with it. If I ever got a new pin, I think I would pull the trigger on a protector (at least for a Stern).
Quoted from TronGuy:
I swapped out the switch with a new one from Stern yesterday, no change. In test mode everything seems to fire the way it is supposed to.
I will explore the wiring chain down the line.
In the mean time if someone can go into test, and check to see if that upper orbit gate stays open, or just flips open and shut during test, it would help me eliminate that portion of my problem.
I just went into test mode; I'm assuming you are referring to the coil test 22, "control gate". It would seem that the gate opens and then closes rather quickly during the test mode; it does not stay open.
I also tried holding the left flipper for the skill shot a couple of times, just to see what's supposed to happen; it would seem that the switch that the ball sits on when it is waiting to be launched needs to open, and then immediately be followed by the closing of the switch that is just before the skill shot lighted arrows in order to make the gate at the top of the orbit open.
My guess would be that something might be amiss with one of those switches.
I hope this helps.
As a musician, I too feel like they did a great job on the music, but Nelson Riddle on this would be phenomenal!
So I had a little bit of time this past weekend, so I decided to remedy something which has been bugging me for some time; specifically, the backs of the Batcomputer and the Crime Analyzer lights. I always thought that the backs of those small LED boards looked somewhat exposed, and I was also slightly concerned that at some point, a flying ball just might hit it and cause all kinds of mayhem, however slight the possibility might be.
Here's what I came up with:
I cut some aluminum step flashing sheets that I had on my workbench to fit over the back and sides of the steel part to give it somewhat more of a clean finish and also to protect the LED board. I had to take apart a good portion of the upper part of the rotating playfield to get to the screws that hold the original part in place and attach my part, but I think it was worth it and it came out nice.
Quoted from EightBitWhit:
Love this scotty_k - good work, indeed. Any chance you'd make up some sets to sell for fellow owners? I think it's a good-looking solution.
Glad you like what I did; it was a labor of love...lol!
Actually, I've had a couple of inquiries regarding this. I hadn't originally planned to make and sell these, but I suppose I could run off a couple of sets if there is enough interest. It may take a few days, however, as I do have a full-time gig and this would be a spare time project.
I'll sit down soon and figure out what needs to be done and what it might cost, and I'll get back to you.
Quoted from JMCFAN:
I would be in as well!!
Quoted from TronGuy:
I'll get on the interest list as well.
Quoted from DeathHimself:
I would like to be on that possible interest list as well.........
Quoted from bajm:
I’m interested as well - looks great!
OK well it certainly looks like there is indeed interest.
I'm a bit swamped at work this week, and I have a wedding to go to on Saturday, so I should have some more info for those interested this coming Sunday.
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