(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread


By TigerLaw

3 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

47 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #366 Adding the Batsignal to LE Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #402 Very detailed review Posted by MT45 (3 years ago)

Post #457 DocQuests Helicopter comparison. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #463 Docquest's vehicle comparison Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #501 Version 0.65 Code released Posted by PiperPinball (3 years ago)

Post #564 Docquest's helicopter install. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #1159 Adjusting the Magnet Posted by PiperPinball (3 years ago)

Post #1234 Helicopter attachment. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #1314 Photos of Episode 111 Machine Posted by iceman44 (3 years ago)

Post #1322 Version 0.68 Code released Posted by ATLpb (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#785 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

well great, now i have to look up "car bonnet"

Bonnet = "hood".

rd

#789 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

And Stern= Rear end.

Boom!

rd

#822 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

1. Pitched the game up to what is probably like 7-7.5 (see level guide below)

Use a digital level or an iPhone app .. those bubble levels can't really tell you what degrees a machine is at.

I use PinGuy on my IPhone, free from the App Store. Works fine. Just make sure you set it up properly and push the playfield button (not glass .. can't level off the glass)

rd

#825 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Thanks RD. What do you mean by "push the playfield button". Just measured it using a level app off the playfield. Was trying to measure off the glass. Thanks for helping a rookie out. Cheers

Pro tip - never level off the glass.

Analogy - levelling your house floor by measuring the roof.

On the PinGuy app, there is a button down the bottom that says "playfield" or "glass". Push the playfield button.

rd

#1079 3 years ago
Quoted from taz:

Here's a photo of an experiment I'm trying, dueling Batlights.Anyone else thinking about going with more than one?

This is Pinside, the more stuff you can cram into your pinball machine the better.

I would recommend 42 of them.

rd

#1129 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Pretty sure that was to misdirect in regards to Jaws? (I think/hope Jaws comes eventually...)

Pretty sure the Shark codename had something to do with this .....

rd

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#1258 3 years ago
Quoted from taz:

Congratulations! You're the "third owner" of a BM66 Premium, already? Dang, I haven't had my LE but maybe 4 weeks thus far and I was in the early batch. Two previous owners in a couple of weeks? What was up, just impatience?

Yeah, third owner in a few weeks? Crazy stuff ...

We sure do live in an instant gratification world these days ...

rd

14
#1304 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I think someone was talking about making a laser cut metal emblem mod for the lockdown bar button?

It's a $15,000 USD machine ... you shouldn't need to add ANYTHING ....

Quoted from iceman44:

Here is what I'm gonna tackle tonight. Chas was very helpful as usual.
1). Turn table assembly is likely screwed up with a broken weld. Not sure. Gonna try again tonight with code update. But table won't turn all the way.
I will go through distro for a replacement most likely.
2). Flippers are dead. He said it might be related to Node 8 being bad and has to be replaced. One strange thing though is that while doing the glass off thing last night, the right flipper moved upright and stayed locked until I turned it off again. Weird.
3). Wiring assembly from the head down to the PF appears to be too short! I can't get the PF into the full service position, too tight, yep I've looked for any crimping or hang ups.
Says they possibly hooked up a shorter one? He was going to check himself.
I'll post pics tonight of card and plaque and update progress if any!

What a clusterf**k!

No way a machine should ship like that.

rd

#1370 3 years ago

Now you're talking!

rd

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4 months later
#2857 2 years ago
Quoted from melumga:

I got this Batman head plunger for my birthday. I've never replaced a plunger before. Can someone offer some instructions/tips on how to do it, or point me to a good vid? Thanks.

It's easy.

Pull off plunger rubber
Remove circlip with a small screwdriver. Don't let it fly off into oblivion.
Slide off spring
Slide out old rod
Slide in new rod
Slide on spring
Pull spring back and put on circlip
Put rubber back on.
Done.

rd

#2861 2 years ago
Quoted from melumga:

Cool, thanks. Thought it may be a little more tricky since Batman has the Bat Gadget button shooter as well.

Ummm no? The button isn't attached to the shooter rod.

You know how to remove the lock bar and slide the glass out etc? (Serious question...)

The lock bar button isn't attached to anything (except the lock bar). Just lift it off as per normal, remove the glass, lift the playfield and access the shooter rod from above.

rd

#2862 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I've lost many small parts there....a terrible place

If I ever find oblivion, I know there will be a big pile of my lost pinball parts there waiting for me. Doooooh

rd

#2866 2 years ago
Quoted from melumga:

Yes, I do. I meant I wasn't sure if I had to do anything with the auto-shooter that the Gadget button probably just operates.

Ahhhhh. Nope, the auto shooter is a seperate assembly to the shooter rod.

If you look in the shooter lane, you can see the two prongs on each side of the shooter rod. This is the auto plunger assembly. This is affixed to the bottom of the playfield ... the shooter rod is in the cabinet.

Hope that's all helpful.

rd

#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Abandoning BM66 would have to kill future SLE sales

Nah it won't. Pinball people have the worst memory of any people I have ever met!!

New release - Take my money!!!

I hope BM66 isn't finished with yet ...

rd

#2970 2 years ago

Whatever it does, $400 USD for some thing that sits on the top of a pinball machine is nuts.

PS I have put my faith in the high lord of pinball programming and ordered a BM66. My first new NIB Stern pin since Metallica LE.

I have enjoyed playing it when I have had the chance. I played it on the latest code over in Scandinavia and liked it, even though it is only half done.

BM66 theme is a winner (as it has been since day one) and The Boss (Fiona) and The Champ (Danni) have wanted one since they saw pictures of it. They were a bit bummed when I passed on the $25,000 NZD SLE but I think I made the right call there ... in NZ, that would have been $10k plus down the toilet if I ever sold it down the line.

rd

#2983 2 years ago
Quoted from frg:

Had a reservation for a LE which I passed over to a friend since I was not 100% convinced and it is the second most expensive pinball machine I considered to buy. After playing some games at my friends house and getting a bit bored of Aerosmith (which is a pretty solid machine, but not special in terms of gameplay and shots), it was pretty obvious... I need a BM66. And I love it.

The theme is not only a winner... for me personaly it's the best out there.
The SLE is crazy, not only the pricing but also the application process and the restrictions... no way to even spend a second on considering this BS! But... f**k... it looks freakin' awesome

Glad you like it Frank. You're a player like me, so that's a good sign.

Nothing beats men in tights. Ooofffff did I just say that ....

rd

#2985 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Quoted for posterity.

Burt Wards book is called "my life in tights" ... pretty good reading.

rd

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#2995 2 years ago
Quoted from jgentry:

but when buying a game you had better buy based on the current state

Quoted for truth!

That's a big mistake a lot of people make ... buying something and then having an expectation it's going to be something else. That is only going to end in tears and disappointment ...

rd

#3014 2 years ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Thanks - I bought HUO
Is there a link on how to update the SW?

On my Spike games, there is an instruction sheet inside the backbox.

rd

#3077 2 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

I saw this bat signal that comes out next week. It looks like its about the same size at about 5 inches tall and projects up to 20 ft away. You would need to chage the lens to the tv style and it doesnt appear to have a focus adjustment buts its 1/8 the price of the Stern version.
https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/batman-running-press/1125366440?ean=9780762462162

Now you're thinking. $25 is more than enough to pay for a pinball accoutrement.

I'm sure it could be wired into something in the machine ... or else just wire it up so it runs all the time.

rd

2 weeks later
#3409 2 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

I think a lot of this frustration is that we have these expectations of near perfection these days

Bingo!

The collector market must be a mixed blessing for Stern.

On one hand, they can rogue $15,000 for a "limited edition" ... which was just stuff of fantasies only a few years ago ... on the other hand, Bob from Idaho is really pissed off that his new Stern Pro has a tiny scratch on the bottom of the cabinet and he's steaming mad about it!!!

(That actually happened ....)

rd

#3499 2 years ago

What is a BM66 Premium selling for in the USA?

rd

#3515 2 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Whoa. Thanks for correcting. Prices vary greatly depending on distributor. The higher the price, the larger the possible range.
FWIW, it looks like Pinburgh *wont*
Have a BM66 but should have a SW Pro, just interesting.

Thanks for posting that up guys.

$7999 retail less a deal if you can get one.

I was just interested how it compared to the usual Premium pricing in the USA.

rd

2 weeks later
#3730 2 years ago
Quoted from protectors:

I am still in for a SWLE, but I am pretty close to cancel my preorder. On the one hand you have the epic John Williams score, but on the other hand... that's my only "excuse" to be still in

If the music is all you're buying SWLE for, go buy the CD and save yourself $$$.

Quoted from J85M:

I think its also good people are dropping out LEs and showing Stern this shit isn't sticking any longer,

Maybe not ... the distributors bought all the SWLEs based on the preliminary sales they'd made, so Stern sold them all, as far as they're concerned.

There could well be some pissed off distributors though ....

rd

1 week later
#3911 2 years ago
Quoted from frolic:

Christopher Franchi said he hopes his next game might debut at Expo. My gut (with no inside info) is that this could be the Elvira game, which would be another boutique release

I don't think so.

Elvira will be Nordman/Freres.

I'm pretty sure that Franchi said he was working on a Kapow game, so look at some of the Kaminkow slots to see a possible licence tie-in.

Some talk about Munsters? But I would have no idea.

rd

#3922 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

The two biggest licences I can find on google are Willy Wonka and the one that would probably be hardest for most to pass up, especially if it could sit side by side with Batman 66 is Superman 78!
Edit: Looks like they have done a Man of Steel slot too.

You'd think Superman would be a "cornerstone" game though. Strong licence.

I see the Kapow games as being a bit more quirky and niche. Maybe Superman 78 (as opposed to modern DC Superman) would fit ... Willy Wonka for sure.

rd

#3925 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Franchi has also done some SM78 artwork maybe this is going to be the reveal at Expo? Although I had heard Beatles was the next Ka-Pow?
So maybe your right RD and Supes would be a cornerstone, although like you kind of said i would expect Cornerstrone release to be more modern and mainstream but we had an original GB release so who knows.

"Cornerstone" would be defined by games they know they can sell a huge number of, in the three versions. And keep making them for some time. The sort of game you'd expect to see at your local movie theatre.

DC Superman would be right up there with Ironman, GOTG, GOT, TWD as a strong licence.

Stern is clever enough to target the 40-60 year old cashed up buyer with KISS, AC/DC, Aerosmith as well. I bet they were surprised at how many Metallicas they sold. I remember when that was launched, 90% of people were WAYYY down on that theme. But the machine was awesome and people bought it, even if they didn't like the band.

BM66 was an experiment, I think ... to create a more niche product at a higher cost, aimed at more cashed up buyers. they sell less units, but make WAYYYY more profit per unit.

Hypothetical numbers: (based on some knowledge ...)

SW Pro - wholesale $4500, profit $500

BM66 Premium - wholesale $6600, profit is probably $2000 ish.

You can make the same profit on 1x BM66 wholesale sale as on 4x SW pro wholesale sales.

That's the dream scenario for any business ... make less products, but earn way more money.

rd

#4038 2 years ago
Quoted from Bamatami:

I know what it is....DP.

Double Penetration?

Odd choice for a pin?

rd

#4040 2 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Too complicated to achieve a Multiball I guess.....

It'd be multi-ball by definition.

rd

2 weeks later
#4427 2 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

As an SLE owner, I have one simple question. Assuming the SLE brought in pure profit of $5k/machine, that would equate to $400k into the Stern coffers. What happened to the $400k?

5k? Are you serious?

More like 10k.

Seriously ... normal Pro "wholesale" is 4500-4700. And they make a profit out of that. BM66 Premium has no more in it than Aerosmith Pro or TWD Pro does, and those Pros are $4500-4700 wholesale.

With BM66 SLE - how much more did 2 translites and some fancy rails and some fancy cab decals cost at wholesale? $200 all up? Sounds fair ... $20 per translite, +$100 extra for the custom rails with powder (remember the cost of the standard ones is deducted) and $50 more for the fancy decals. Oh yeah, some signed cards, another $20 per unit.

And they sold them direct ... no Distributor margin.

Don't kid yourselves ... 80 SLE pins = a whole lot of profit.

Genius marketing by Stern.

rd

#4429 2 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

btw...you forgot the matchbox cars. Those were at least another $20.

Oh yeah!

Funny story ... My buddy in LA was going to buy a B66 premium, and he wanted the same Bat cars as the SLE, so he went to Walmart and got the whole lot for like $2.99 per each.

Actually, come to think of it, he didn't end up buying a machine in the end ... I'll ask him if I can buy them off them and stick em in my premium. Hot glue gun for the win!!

rd

#4438 2 years ago

^^^

In answer to the replies to my post, as you probably know I am one of the few pinsiders who won't get into an argument on anything. But I stand by my comment that B66 SLE wouldn't cost substantially more than say TWD pro or AS Pro to build. A few hundred difference. Not thousands.

This comes from my background of running manufacturing factories, understanding economies of scale, and understanding also how marketing works through running my furniture store chain.

Also a note: my own B66 Premium arrives here in a few weeks. I like the game enough to buy one. My first new Stern since Metallica.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

My only point being...if there was that much NET profit in these machines (as a whole, not an inflated one-off) it wouldn't be so hard for new companies to get off the ground

There IS the profit there... at least on paper. That's why so many companies have started in the last few years. It's not rocket science to work out what a machine costs to build.

Where these new companies have failed is they didn't understand that Stern are a well oiled machine. Theyve been running for 30+ years, and they fire out 50 machines a day blindfolded. When Andrew Heighway said they were going to make as many machines as Stern straight out of the box, that's when I knew he had no idea what it would take to do that.

JJPs initial problems were the same. They couldn't make the machines fast enough to fill the orders. No production = no sales = no money for wages, parts, rent, etc etc. By all accounts, they were a lot closer to folding than most of you realise.

Spooky has done it exactly the way I would have done it (if I was silly enough to do it!!) Under promise and over deliver. Keep it small. Grow organically. Work 100 hours a week to make it happen. Charlie and family get all my kudos for making it happen with the minimum of BS.

All good.

rd

#4448 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Amazing the economic experts on here....

You don't have to be an economic expert.

Pro - they make a profit on it. They wholesale it for $4500, and they do not sell it for a loss. $4500 covers everything, parts, labour, design, licence. THEY MAKE A PROFIT out of the $4500. These machines are the cornerstone of the business.

Premium - they add a few things - they make more profit percentage.

LE - they add a couple more things - make even more profit percentage.

SLE - they add a couple more things - they make a shit load of profit.

Pretty basic economics. I could bore you with hundreds of examples in the furniture industry, but you'd be looking like Hans Solo in the carbonite after 2 minutes of that.

And good on Stern! They are a company, and any companies aim is to make as much money as possible. Making way more money per unit is everyone's goal, and the LE/SLE model certainly achieves that goal, exactly as they designed it to do.

After 30 years in this tough industry, Gary deserves all the money he can get.

rd

1 week later
#4646 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

I know about a dozen people that would like to jump in on a BM66, but the code is the reason they are all standing on the sidelines, how Stern don't realise by now that their piss poor communication and code support is hurting them is beyond me

Gotta agree with this.

I know Stern has/had BM66 Premiums sitting there in stock.

Surely it makes sense to hold back any new releases, and finish the games you have now (that you've already spent all the R&D money on) and maximise your ROI? (return on investment)

This would also tell the market "hey, buy a Stern game with confidence, cause we will listen to our customers and get these games finished in a timely fashion" --- thus increasing sales of the next model that comes out.

I think of that every time a ball whizzes over my GOTs right Lord of Light ball save and it makes a sound but doesn't give me my f**king ball back!!!

rd

#4731 2 years ago
Quoted from taz:

So, it was sadly one of the happiest days I can recall when I lost over a grand selling it.

Lucky you don't own a Hobbit, you could lose even more!

rd

#4738 2 years ago
Quoted from erak:

In case you didn't notice Batman's "pole" is bigger.

Dick is smaller.

rd

1 week later
14
#4873 2 years ago

B66 has finally arrived at the RD arcade ... so now the new code will come any day!

rd

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#4878 2 years ago

Pretty!

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Nice glossy playfield ...

rd

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#4881 2 years ago

Lol!! Minion Bob in final assembly forgot to screw on the ramp cover. Lucky I have some screws in my Bat Tool Kit for just this occasion ...

rd

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#4884 2 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

If its not, you could get ball hang ups on slow moving balls when enterimg the lock

Yep, it's hanging up at the back. I'll drop it down 1mm soon and that'll sort it.

2nd game ... got to "Villain Escape". Good times.

rd

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#4921 2 years ago

What's a good score on this thing?

1.1b?

rd

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#4923 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

About double that. The last update 4+ months ago increased scoring overall, IMO.

Cool. I did everything in that game, Villain Escape, bat turns, 3 multiballs, multipliers, 100m + bonuses ..

And there'll be more to do in the new update. Noice!!

rd

#4931 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Abusing Commissioner Gordon before answering the phone can net 50 million+ each time just for answering the phone

How does one do that?

rd

#4933 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

When the phone starts ringing, ignore it and keep hitting the thin standup target next to the scoop on the right (the one where you send the villains to jail when complete). Every time you hit it the jackpot for the phone increases. Answer the phone to collect. With just a little practice 50m per phone answer is not unusual.

Nice.

rd

#4934 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Every time you hit it the jackpot for the phone increases. Answer the phone to collect. With just a little practice 50m per phone answer is not unusual.

Goodness!! It keeps going up ....

rd

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#4941 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Watch Lyman change the commissioner target behaviour in next weeks "rumoured" code drop making it more complex to exploit.

It's no different to the old Batmobile hurry up on BMTDK. Exactly the same scenario ... with that, you can keep shooting the right loop over and over and raise the collect up to 1b points.

I'm sure Lyman put it in as a "tribute" to that.

Both are very risk/reward ... you drain or time out, you get nothing! So I don't think you'd see people doing it in a serious tournament. There are lots of other points around the PF.

rd

#4950 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Rotordave can either be a hero for being the reason the code has dropped
Or be a villain for being the reason it hasn’t!
LOL

I'll claim the Hero status.

rd

1 week later
#5558 2 years ago
Quoted from Rasavage:

there is a greater likelihood that our game will end up like Kiss or WoF

What's wrong with KISS?

Don't say "the cities don't do anything .." ... they are doing what they were designed to do (change the callouts) That's all they were supposed to do.

Don't believe the hype. KISS is a solid game and is pretty much done.

rd

#5563 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's more solid and full-featured than Aerosmith, code-wise. So if people want to complain about KISS, Aerosmith should be ahead of it.

Dunno about that. Both games are very similar. So similar, I sold the KISS and bought Aerosmith. I liked KISS, but the LCD puts AS over the top. Plus the toy box is f**king cool.

Quoted from Rasavage:

Thanks for the correction. I gladly take that back and doing so gives me a little more hope on BM66.

I have to pick it up, because rumours like that destroy a game. I've had a number of people here say "KISS has poor code" and I ask "have you ever played it?" ... "no, I read it on pinside" Now, I realise that everything on the internet is 100% true and gospel (lol) ... and that's the problem. Someone says "the cities don't do anything!" and now it's "a thing".

rd

#5659 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

the gadget button surround on the lockdown. Laser cut stainless like on Aerosmith. Size should also be like Aerosmith (Star Trek/TWD) because the lockdown bar changes angle about 1/2 way up. If we keep it below the angle (like AS/TWD etc) the plate wont need to be bent. Attachment could be double sided tape, or drilled and screwed/rivetted if your'e game.
Could likely get Cliffy to do the actual cut.
Just need someone with some design talent to do the art. Anyone?

I concur. I’m not worried about all the other mods, but I feel the lock bar button surround is a must.

The red sticker is SO F**KING LAME.

At the same time my expensive B66 Premium arrived, so did my AS Pro, and that has a freaking stainless surround! WTFFFFF mannn!!

My red sticker already has a big crease in it which looks like crap.

As you say, the only issue is the lockbar has a big crease in it. The usual Stern surrounds sit under the crease (see pics) The red sticker goes over and under the crease.

So to replicate the sticker in metal, you’d need to have a crease in it.

A big metal bat symbol would look badass.

You could make it in stainless, or steel then powdercoat it red.

As you say, maybe Cliff can make some? It would be a job for someone with a laser cutter who can make 20-30 of them for us owners.

I have contacts in a lot of fields, but alas, I don’t know anyone who could make those.

rd

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#5699 2 years ago

Bat Turn!

(Check out the snappy editing!).

rd

1 month later
#7001 2 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

So if your name is :
al, alex, andrew, bob, brandy, brent, buddy, carl, charlie, chris, dan, david

Good to see my name went in there before I cancelled lolllll

rd

#7026 2 years ago
Quoted from melumga:

My crane rarely registers hits, so no it's not worth it for me.

Fix it maybe?

rd

#7029 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

You know how to make it more sensitive RD?

Special cream?

Luckily my crane is fine, but you can adjust them. There are threads/posts about how to do it. Search the BMTDK theeads, same mech.

rd

#7172 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Since the BM66 speakers have bring brought up again, am I the only one who is dissatisfied with the sound on BM66?

You may already know this, but I know a lot of people don’t ...

There are bass and treble controls in Spike games - go to the Utilities menu and go to VOL. Bass and treble are there.

rd

1 month later
#7846 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

Has anyone added additional lighting for the bat cave/magnet area? It’s really dark with no spotlights up there

Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

I can appreciate that but I’m looking for a $5 fix as opposed to spending hundreds.

I can give you a $0 fix.

Turn your lights on. Install a dimmer switch if they’re too bright.

I can’t see this weird fascination with playing in the dark. Are you all cave dwellers?

rd

#7859 2 years ago
Quoted from frolic:

It's like going to a concert and the house lights stay on for the show. Some people might like that, but I prefer maximum light show.

Silly comparison. Stage shows are ... shows. Pinball is ... pinball.

Turn on the lights and watch your scores go up. Bet you $10.

rd

1 week later
#8102 2 years ago

Core mode kit question:

When you guys got your repair kits from Stern, did you get 2x capacitor plugs, or one?

They sent me 2 ... I needed kits for BM66 and also ASpro.

But reading the instructions, it infers that you need to fit a capacitor to both Node 8 AND Node 9 ... in which case, they haven’t sent me enough kits.

Did you guys fit 1x or 2x?

rd

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#8189 2 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Hey Guys. I have a question I think is best asked here since you are most familiar with BM66. I was planning to grab a BM and then Luci VE got announced. Can't afford both. If you had to pick one for your hone collection which would it be?
Another detail to factor in is this is a small batch of Lucis which wont last long. I assume BM66 will continue being made for a while.
Thanks

If you want an AC/DC buy one without the awful pink lady on the side of it.

It has nothing to do with AC/DC for starters. And she is bright pink. Ewwww.

I’m no Woman’s libber, but it’s just tacky IMHO.

C8582B8D-AEDB-47FA-B2E4-8C6C0480DDBC (resized).jpeg

As far as the other question, remember BM66 is more expensive than other premium Stern machines (I presume Luci is the same as the other premium AC/DC machines) That might sway your thinking.

AC/DC is sort of old news to me, because I’ve had one since 2012. But if I’d never owned one before, maybe I’d go that way. AC/DC is one of the best Pins ever made.

Yes, Bm66 premium is still down to be made for a while. I just got 2 out of this months run for other kiwi buyers.

But as Icey said, there will be 1000s more AC/DCs made than BM66 at the end of the day.

rd

#8192 2 years ago

They’re not offical AC/DC stuff. A fan art picture and an aftermarket gig flyer.

Even the dates on the flyer are wrong. No gig in Cincinnati that day. Or in 1979 at all! They weren’t even in the USA.

rd

#8195 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Is this the case everywhere other than the UK? Here in England BM66 Premium/LE is at the same price point as GB, AS, SW, GOTG.

Yeah, in NZ bm66 is $1500 more.

According to GEX website, RRP on BM66 premium is $8500 (discounted to $7999), and AC/DC is $7199.

https://gameexchange.biz

rd

#8198 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

but listing to the same songs thousands of times just swayed me away as do most of the Stern music titles

How’s that different from any other pinball machine?

Turn on BM66 and it’s the same music every time.

Turn on TZ and it’s the same music every time.

Turn on AC/DC and you have 12 different tunes to choose from.

I can understand if you don’t like AC/DC but you can’t complain about the lack of choices ...

rd

1 week later
#8495 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyoz:

Never thought that there would be a game that would top my list above Capcom Kingpin (played, but never owned one)

Yeah? What did you like about Kingpin so much? Interested to know .. Aside from it being rare ...

Disclaimer: I’ve played one and didn’t think it was that great. Hey, ok for $4000 maybe like a Pinball Magic. Mind you, none of the Capcom games do much for me.

rd

#8517 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Checked out Batusi last night

According to a couple of podcasters, it’s now pronounced “Bat-suey”

Like Chop Suey. But with Batman.

rd

1 week later
#8619 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Awesome! Be safe and get some B/W leg brackets for the front corners. Not sure if Stern has since upgraded the cabinet wood. Your machine is definitely an older run at .69.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144

I gotta tell the story.

So the other day I was moving my pin room around, as one does ...

The room is carpeted, and all the pins move around pretty easily.

I move my BM66 a little bit, exactly the same as I’ve moved all my other pins for 20-30 years now, and BANG!! This huge snapping noise echoes through the game room.

The whole front right corner of the cabinet had split all the way from the top to just above the top leg hole. Which is where the internal wooden corner brace is. Funny that!

First thing I thought - fuck! Imagine if this was some of those guys on Pinside’s game. Their heads would explode!! Haha

Luckily, the decal wasn’t damaged. The split was right along the edge of the side decal.

My background is in furniture and woodwork, so I guess I am used to stuff like this. I trundled over to the garage and got out my clamps and PVA and glued that MF back up, and let it dry overnight. Luckily it came up sweet ... I also installed a countersunk 40mm screw at the bottom (under the leg protector) which actually will hold the joint together properly. That sort of joint should really be glued and screwed in the Factory for maximum strength. If they put screws under the leg protector area, and under the lock bar area, you’d never see them and they’d work wonders.

I touched up the repair with my black acrylic paint marker, and you’d never know it happened. Thankfully.

So yeah, I would recommend some sort of bracket up the top. That’s where the damage occurred, when the machine was moved, the cabinet twisted and the joint failed. Badly.

rd

#8623 2 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

Bravo. While I would love any manufacturer to sell equipment that prevents this, I love that you just fixed it yourself. We all should do this more

I learnt a long, long, long (long) time ago, by the time you waste hours bitching about something, probably to someone who doesn’t care anyway, it’s just f**king easier to go get the glue and fix it yourself.

I fixed it in 10-15 minutes.

If I kicked up a fuss, I would think it would take me like 3-4-5 months to get a replacement cabinet. With hours and hours of phone calls, emails and general stress I don’t need in my life.

I don’t need a replacement cabinet. I can fix stuff. So I did.

If it had damaged the side decal, I would have asked for a new decal, as I can’t fix that.

That’s one thing about Kiwis and Aussies, because we live at the ass end of the planet, we have become very self sufficent.

Now, with the brackets, I would suggest the corner ones as fitted at the top of Thundergods photo would be ideal.
I did not think you need the bottom ones, the timber brace provides ample strength, but they’re only a couple of bucks so go for it if you think you need them.

- Be sure to affix them with proper wood thread screws, not metal thread screws (they’ll pull right out)
- make sure the screws are the right length (and don’t go out the side of the cabinet)

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Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

$15K pin that cant be gently moved across a carpet like a 20 year old sega...

Or a 5 year old Stern
Or a 20 year old BW
Or a 30 year old Bally SS
Or a 55 year old EM

rd

#8625 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

what kind of bracket is that at the top? the L bracket I can get at a hardware store...is the other one specialty or readily available too?
(dont forget zizzles)

Dunno, it’s not my photo. I can link you some NZ stuff but that won’t be much use!

But somebody will point you US guys in the right direction.

rd

#8631 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

As for the RZ....you will thank yourself every day parking Batman in his place.

Why is that? Have you owned one?

Edit: played

rd

#8639 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

No but I play Many games on a friends and while I can see how others may like it the theme, lighting, shots, nor art appealed to me nor my family. Don't think I have to Own one not to like it? There are many games I like even love that others dislike. No issues to me this isn't a Team hobby its more of an Individual type thing.

I should have said “play” ... apologies.

So many people quick to judge things on Pinside hearsay ... I see it all the time. Most haven’t even played it.

Sorry that you don’t enjoy the game. It’s a chaotic game, and while it’s a big hit here I can understand not everyone likes that style of play. As long as they’ve played it and formed a genuine opinion, that’s all good.

rd

#8642 2 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Why bother. I doubt they would even give it a second thought.

Yeah, I don’t think they keep a register, let’s put it that way.

rd

#8648 2 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I would ditch my bm66 before my Rz so I quess to each there own.

Hmmm ... I’d be 50/50 ... if I needed cash then Bm66 is worth more so out she goes.

RZ is a fun game. I like getting my ass kicked. And it enhances your playing skills trying not to get your ass kicked.

rd

#8667 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

WTF
BTW, if anyone is wondering about the clear plastic dome thing....

Looks like the top of an LED to me.

rd

1 week later
#8785 2 years ago

Nah nah nah nah Batman!

And Robin.

rd

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#8786 2 years ago

More lolz. Literally, I lol’d. What else you gonna do ...

I moved the Bm66 gently to put the characters by it. CRACCCCCCKKKKK goes the other front corner! You gotta laugh.

I moved it reaaaally gently too. The cabinet probably twisted slightly and snap she goes. Pretty crazy.

The first photo shows the first corner I repaired. Came up pretty sweet.

rd

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#8792 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

have you got the metal inside strengtheners?

Nope! Neither have any of the other 125 pins.

But this one will soon have some 2.5” screws through it, with a heap of glue, that’ll make it nice and manly.

rd

#8794 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Way sorry to see that!!! your repair looked solid on the other side, btw.......I put the steel in awhile back....all 4 corners. No splits, but one less thing to worry about now.......

I just took the approach, I’ll fix it if it happens. To be honest I never thought it’d happen lol! But it did.

So if you’re not confident in woodwork, I’d advise spending $5 on some brackets like we discussed in the last week or two, and getting the corners braced up.

What do they say? Prevention is worth two ounces of cure? Something like that.

rd

11
#8799 2 years ago

This time I documented the repair, hope it helps someone out.

1/ get machine up in the air. Remove leg and plastic leg protector (2 screws) Now is a good time to put the PF up in the air (as I didn’t do in these photos ...)

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2/ pour heaps of PVA (that’s poly vinyl acetate, thanks high school woodwork..) down the crack. Give it time to run down the joint, pour in even more. It’ll run out the side. No stress, wipe it off. Won’t damage anything, PVA is water soluble. Don’t use PVA on outside furniture.

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3/ put a sash clamp across the machine. This pulls the sides back in. Mine was out 1-2mm. Always use cloths to protect the sides of the cabinet.

BD314446-89B5-4F35-A90E-A1340E7E7DB7 (resized).jpeg

4/ these are cabinet makers countersinking screws. About 50mm (2”) long. Note the thread doesn’t go all the way to the end ... this is to pull the joint closer together. I always use square drive screws. Phillips head screws suck. Note the drill bit - see how it is around the same size as the lower screw shank (not the thread) This is a 2mm drill. You want to drill a pilot hole so the timber doesn’t split - but the screw still needs meat to screw into.

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5F7D8945-95B4-4BDC-BD64-D3572DE1565D (resized).jpeg

5/ drill the hole and screw in the screw. Note how the screw countersinks into the timber. I touch up the screw head with a paint marker to match the black background.

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6/ screw the leg protector back on. Screw disappears! Magic!

B75EF3C6-3231-4223-83BA-A1A2BDCE5C9B (resized).jpeg

7/ now we need to pull the top (of the front) back in. Usually I would use a long sash clamp that would run front to back of the pin. But I loaned them out and can’t remeber who has them. Haha! So I have to improvise with this smaller clamp, pulling against the sash clamp. Not ideal .. but you have to do with what you have.

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8/ you can see it’s all pulled in sweetly. I’ll leave it clamped for a day to dry, then run the paint marker down the join to make it look 100%.

D595B1AD-C534-433B-BFD9-B05FA93B08D1 (resized).jpeg

Now, to make the joint really strong, another screw up the top would be ideal. But it will be visible when the lock bar is removed (but totally covered up when the lock bar is on) Or, you can slap an angle bracket on the inside, but a screw would be better. I’ll have a look and make a decision when the clamps come off.

Hope that helps someone.

rd

#8805 2 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

With a B66 premium on it's way, do I have the risk of a splitting cabinet too? Or from what date is this problem fixed? (@rotordate: you know your build date by chance?).

Sorry, I’m not around it for a week now. I bought it about 9-12 months after the first run .. dunno if it’s from the original run or not. I know it was in stock at the factory, who knows how long it was sitting there though.

Quoted from thundergod76:

There have been documented cases of cabs splitting that were manufactured years ago when Stern was actually using decent grade wood

The wood has nothing to do with it, it’s the integrity of the joint that’s the issue.

As you can see in my pics, both my cracks stop where the top of the internal timber 45 degree corner block is (where the leg bracket fits) This corner block needs to run towards the top of the cabinet, same as all the old pins did (that never break, ever..) and Sterns problems would be over.

OR screw the cabinets

OR change up the simple butt joint to a better joint like the BW machines.

But a 10c, longer 45 degree timber block, screwed and glued as high to the top as you can go, would sort it all out. Easy peasy.

rd

#8809 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Thanks for the clarification. What's your opinion on the rear cab corners? Should we worry about those eventually splitting?

I haven’t got the pin in front of me, but from memory the corner blocks run all the way up the back. Plus the top of the cab (where the head box sits) also acts as a cross brace.

So no, don’t see an issue there.

Quoted from vireland:

Cheap insurance just to install the B/W brackets with wood screws and titebond III and call it good.

The bottom of the cabinet joint (at the front) is already braced by the wooden block. The BW brackets won’t really make it any stronger IMO. But they won’t make it any weaker either.

The weak spot is at the top of the cab. That’s where the flexing happens and where it splits.

If anyone wants insurance, run some PVA glue down the joint as Vireland suggests, and stick corner brackets at the top. Those screws he posted yesterday are ideal for the brackets - good coarse wood thread on those suckers! They won’t pull out in a hurry.

rd

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#8857 2 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

was about to start it the ball would end up in the scoop and start Penguin instead of Ridder. I hate it when it does thst.

When it starts a villain ... before you shoot the batphone, you can change villains. In your example, just shoot Riddler (if he’s ready to go) and it will change to Riddler. Then shoot the phone and away you go.

rd

#8867 2 years ago
Quoted from taz:

If that happens, you'll answer the phone and end up battling Penguin usually, or Cat Woman.

If that happens, you can hit the orbit again (while the phone is ringing) and you relight Riddler again. The batphone countdown restarts.

rd

#8905 2 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Man....just played and took a different strategy to it. Instead of collecting the villains right away I stayed in them until the end. Soo much more to it than what i had been seeing. Fucking love this game!

No way do you want to collect your villains early. Play them all the way through with multipliers for massive points.

rd

#8913 2 years ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Unless your playing last in a comp and the points offered are enough to take the win.

Hmmmm .... yeah.

rd

#8917 2 years ago

Cabinet repair - part 2!

So, the cabinet has been in clamps for a week. The glue should be dry by now!

Seriously, one day is plenty.

Remove the clamps and tidy up any excess glue (if any - wipe off with warm water)

I decided to GO FOR BROKE!! and screw the cabinet. Hey, I don’t want to repair it again. With screws, I don’t think I will have to.

1/ fit the lock bar. Get some low tack painters tape, and mark the bottom of the bar. This is the “no go zone!” Use low tack tape or else you may damage your decals!

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2/ drill your pilot hole above the line, allowing a few mm for the screw head width. Again, I used the 50mm cabinet maker screws that I used in the first thread. Note how these countersink. Don’t overdo the countersink, as the wood isn’t very thick here, and you’ll go through it. Then the screw is a waste of time.

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3/ touch up the screw and hole with a black acrylic paint marker, or brush. Touch up the corner crack repair if needed - mine didn’t really need any touch ups, it came back together really well.

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4/ refit the lock bar - screw disappears! Magic!

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Hopefully that will be the end of my cracking Batman66 cabinet.

rd

#8984 2 years ago

Holy shit! That’s like a baseball in your brain!

Thank goodness it all turned out ok ..!!

rd

#9028 2 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Didn't know it was possible to score this many points in a single mode. This game rules!!

Yep, just stay in Penguin and play it out till the end. Throw in a couple of multipliers and a multiball or two and you’re going to get 1b plus every game.

rd

2 weeks later
#9286 2 years ago

I couldn’t figure out why Batman was kicking my ass. Struggling to get 1b and after a whole day of plays at Pincade nobody else had got their name on a clean (new code installed) high score chart.

I figured out why ...

rd

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#9293 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Pinguy is the name of the app

Indeed it is. Quite handy to have - IOS only unfortunately. Make sure your phone isn’t on silent, and it talks to you while you’re struggling under the pin.

I usually set my Sterns to around 7 (ish .. depends on the pin) because I have to play in Josh Sharpe comps and that’s where he sets them (with no ball save!)

I cranked the legs up on bm66 at a huge brewery sponsored Comp last month in Auckland that I supplied all the pins for. Didn’t know they were at 8.3 though hahaha.

PS I won the Comp and won $11,000 of travel and cash for my efforts .. plus they paid to hire my pins. Double Win for RD! haha.

rd

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#9300 2 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Only $11,000? Didn’t think you’d get outta bed for any less than 20!

Hey, you do what you gotta do.

rd

#9317 2 years ago

I can confirm that dropping the angle of BM66 from 8.4 to “only” 7.5 makes the game much more playable.

rd

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#9326 2 years ago

Shit! Might have to put it back up to 8.4 degrees!

This game took like 45 minutes!

rd

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#9338 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

No need - just take those elastic bands off the outlanes first.
Edit: Must have been an exciting game for Player 2 .lol.

She just gives up when me and Danni get on a roll.

Talking of outlanes - the left outlane, when the ball hits those metal side rails, the ball just vacuums down the outlane. No saving those puppies! They mentioned it on the PAPA Finals stream in the weekend. The right sling has a propensity to slam the ball hard into that rail just under the lane post ... BANG! WHOOOOSH! She’s gone!

rd

#9340 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

batman is nothing like LOTR

Nope. I used to have to stop playing LOTR after like 40 Mins to let the flipper coils cool down for a while. Then come back and play for another 30 minutes.

Got tedious. Out the door she went.

rd

#9342 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Wow - 124 games and no LOTR?!

Sollllldddd!

Had a pro to start. Got offered a nice deal on an LE, so bought it. Had it for a long time - we rarely played it. Someone made me a crazy offer .... see ya later!

I bought about 5 or 6 classic 70s/80s Bally/Stern Pins in from the States for the money I got for LOTRLE - I like playing them much better.

Plus I can play a LOTR any time, they are quite common here. Actually - aside from competitions I haven’t actually chased a game on LOTR since I sold mine 2 years ago. So it’s not missed.

rd

#9357 2 years ago
Quoted from dts:

Ok, will get on that. You guys are great! Stern hasn't answered yet...

Shouldn’t need to talk to them.

- remove balls
- lift playfield vertically
- inspect underside of turntable
You’ll see three brackets around the edge with circa 10mm bolt on each one
Odds on one of these is loose.
- get someone to hold turntable so it is flat with the PF and tighten the bolt back up with a socket or wrench. You may need to adjust the other ones.
Having someone to help makes it easier, although I did it myself no problems.
- it should be adjusted so that it sits level with the PF all the way around (no lip)

rd

#9387 2 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Any tips to make the game harder...?
I adjusted my tv target settings and lock settings from default extra easy to easy.
Outlanes are at their widest. Perhaps a smaller rubber ring at the posts?
default settings 3 ball + extra's... 4Billion+ game with twice Batusi and twice super villain
ps: at 50 (or 60+) combo's you see the batcycle

- raise pitch to 7.5 degrees.

If you really want to destroy your scores, take it to 8.5. With the drooped flippers (I never reset them from Factory) it makes live catches very difficult.

That should make a difference.

If not:

- extra balls to zero
- remove rings from outline posts all together
- optional - reset settings to HARD

rd

#9388 2 years ago
Quoted from TimO:

Can anyone tell me how to reset high scores? I looked through adjustments and the best I could find was a reset after 100 games. My high score right now is due to some glass-off experimentation and I’d like to void it.

Just do a factory reset - one of the options in the SPI menu.

Then you need to set Free Play again.

rd

#9415 2 years ago

So, not only does Danni whoop my high score, she goes on Facebook and taunts Bowen Kerins with it. Wtf ....

rd

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#9456 2 years ago

Had an interesting issue last night.

Turned on bm66 - no sound. Oh dear.

Rebooted - still no sound. Pulled line cord out, left for a minute - no sound.

Hmmmm. All plugs are present and correct. Amp or software maybe?

Decided to do a factory reset. Bye bye Danni’s 7b high score haha. Long shot, but no change.

Right - I’ll install new code, that may fix it.

Downloaded code. Went back to machine two hours later to update the code, switch machine on and sound is there, 100% working. No need for the update.

Weird.

rd

#9458 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Admit it, the real issue here was:

10 points for the elaborate story. In the absence of a new code update, it's a novel way to justify wiping her score.

You know it.

I have 120 high scores - she had one.

And it would have been very hard to chase down too - she’d completed the game, pretty much.

Anyway, we all know it was 7b so I have a goal in life now.

rd

#9460 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

That makes it even worse. Bring 'em up tough!

Yeah man. And always rub their face in it too.

The way she’s going she’ll have 120 high scores soon and I’ll have one - so I gotta make hay while the sun shines.

rd

#9469 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Interrupting background node board update or intermittent node board problem? When you left it alone it had time to do it?

Dunno! Sound didn’t work - two hours later it did.

Put another 20 Games on it since and hasn’t faulted ....

rd

#9474 2 years ago
Quoted from Jokerman:

I have had similar problems with my LE since delivery 12 months ago. Haven’t done anything about it as, after a cycle-up or two, it always works and I have learnt to live with it given my remoteness. I’d be eager to hear of a fix tho.

My sound went out again tonight.

Never been an issue on any of my Spike games before.

I’ve sent an email to Chas - let’s see if I get an answer.

rd

11
#9475 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

I’ve sent an email to Chas - let’s see if I get an answer.
rd

I got a reply! Nice.

Hi David,
We think there is a software solution for this problem. We will be releasing software soon to fix this!

Best regards,
Chas Siddiqi
Stern Pinball Tech. Support

rd

1 week later
#9713 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I've never been happy with the stickers on the lock bar and have been working on a replacement. I finally came up with something I'm happy with on my own game. For the button I have 304 stainless steel that I have cut in 2 pieces (an upper and slightly larger bottom layer). These were bent to match the contour of the lock bar. The bottom layer is powder coated white and top layer is powder coated red. They are held on by the button itself although additional adhesive could be used. I tried to make it so it covered the original sticker completely, but as you can see there is a small area that is visible. This may not bother some people but I was going to re powder coat my lock bar and remove the sticker anyway. The bat comes in 2 variations - a plain one and one that says "GADGET SELECTOR". I also used the same technique to make a little sign that says "BAT GADGET SELECTOR" the same size as the original sticker. This would need to be held on with glue or double stick tape. We plan to offer these on our website, but my wife is getting ready for a dance competition with our daughters so it might be a few days. Feel free to PM me if you want one earlier, and I'll try to get a few in the mail tomorrow. The cost will be $49 for the Bat (either variation), and $19 for the "GADGET SELECTOR" sign.
I could also sell them in unpainted stainless steel (for those that prefer that look or want to do their own powder coating) or could do custom colors (for additional cost).

4 of twenty84 metal bat button things showed up in NZ last week.

Every BM66 that is in NZ will have one fitted.

These are awesome .. they should have been fitted to the game standard. To have a 50c sticker on a (up to) $15,000 USD pin is pretty sad tbh.

rd

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3 weeks later
#9966 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

so one of my buddys completed all he villains and then got to villain escape multi-ball

I gotta tell the story.

So yesterday I fully completed all 4 villains (to the last SJP) and lit Villain Escape at the batcave. Had about 2b and thought “sweet, here comes big points!”
... went for the left orbit which I hadn’t missed all game, hit the blue nub of death and lost the ball. Game over. DENIED.

And then two games later ... I had 2.5b points. Had Villian Eacape lit at the bat cave. AND DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING AGAIN!

I genuinely LOLd. Whaaaat ya gonna doooo ....

rd

1 week later
10
#9985 2 years ago
Quoted from AdeptJR:

Question, adding Mods with lights and such, is it easy for a newbie to install? As I am waiting on my BM66 Premium, any recommendation for MOD add-on’s?

The advice I would give to a newbie (welcome by the way. I see you have a Jokerz which is a cool Sys11 pin...) is:

- play the game. Enjoy it first how it comes out of the box. Dial it in. Make sure everything is 100%. Learn the rules. BM66 has lots of rules and things to do - explore the game and smash some high scores!

- if you insist on adding mods, leave it for a few months before doing it. You might not like the game, if so you can sell it and get your money back.

- the advantage of adding new stuff “not straight away” is it keeps the game fresh. So, play it as it comes ... add a mod in a few months ... maybe another one down the track ... keeps the machine fresh, especially in a small collection.

If you go “all in” straight away - where do you go from there?

Remember - generally mods don’t add much value to a game when you sell it. So if you do sell it down the track, be mindful that every $1 you spend on mods will likely be gone when you sell.

My 2c

rd

#10016 2 years ago
Quoted from AdeptJR:

Is there a way to reset the factor / default high scores completely, so lower scores can get listed in the top 4?

You can do that - but imo would be a tad lame. You gotta have a goal to aim for!

Get a few multiballs running with a mode - you’ll beat those scores in no time.

rd

#10022 2 years ago
Quoted from PismoArcade:

Is the Premium that much of a lesser machine?

Playfield and gameplay is identical on all three machines.

rd

#10047 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

So, not only does Danni whoop my high score, she goes on Facebook and taunts Bowen Kerins with it. Wtf .... 7,152,000,000
rd

Well, it took me two months ...

But an hour long game later .... up yours Danni!

rd

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10
#10067 2 years ago
Quoted from PinsOnly:

I think Stern must have seen Rotordave's High Score and said!! NOPE!!

I was thinking ... f**k me, I spent 2 months getting this score, and they release new code a few hours later?

Wtf guys!

Well, at least I got the picture.

rd

3 weeks later
#10201 1 year ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Also shooting for Batcave multiball and Bat turn mode. You can easily score 500M just playing one major villain to completion

Penguin 1, you can usually get 600m - 1b if you play your cards right.

RDs tip of the day for newbies - if you have a few things running at the same time, HOLD the lockbar button down for 2 seconds and the main screen changes to one of the other modes. Hold it again to swap to a different mode.

It’s much easier to see the shots you need to hit to complete a mode. If I’m running a multi ball, I’ll always change the screen to the minor villain so I know which shots to hit to complete before the timer runs out.

rd

1 week later
#10249 1 year ago
Quoted from AdeptJR:

I have been playing the heck out of my BM66, it has been over a month since I got it. I did a basic cleaning of the play field with Novus 1 yesterday

That’s not needed. Just get a bottle of Simple Green, spray the playfield and clean it. Concentrate on the ball trails on the ramps, and around the inlanes where trails build up.

Clean and dry the balls as well. Any signs of rust or pitting on the balls, buy some new ones.

Maybe use the Novus (or a better car cleaning product) once a year. Novus is an abrasive plastic cleaner. Pinball playfields are finished in auto clear. I use auto clear products. Makes sense to me ...

If you must, apply some wax. Again - I wax maybe once a year. I use a simple spray wax (again, a car product) Spray on - wipe off. Doesn’t build up on the surface.

No need to get carried away. I know some do - but it’s not required.

rd

1 month later
#10645 1 year ago
Quoted from midhandicapper:

I've realized that the kicker arm doesn't move freely - there seems to be some friction. Could the plunger into the coil be rubbing against something inside the coil?

Apologies nobody answered your question. Too many mods to discuss, evidently.

If your coil was hot enough to smoke, it’s probably melted inside, which will cause that friction on the plunger.

When your new parts arrive, ensure you install them the same as the parts you remove. (Same wiring etc)

Then check the launch mech for any friction. There shouldn’t be any.

rd

#10655 1 year ago

Fixed the left front of the cabinet
Fixed the right front of the cabinet
Now another job to do ...

You just gotta LOL

rd

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#10659 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Ok one must ask How do you play your machines??? lol It's like your tearing them up

Nup! I’m not a mover/nudger much at all - because in high level tournaments you can’t do that, the tilts are too tight. So I don’t do it.

I have owned 200-250 pins I guess, over the last 25 years, and I’ve never had one crap out like this one has.

It’s just very poorly made. That’s the honest take away. It’s built very poorly by someone who doesn’t know how to do woodwork.

rd

#10661 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Makes sense and agreed. Had one split on me also. Just figured you had some bad ass luck or your Batman is haunted.... Do you break the game down often to take to tourneys often? Not saying thats the issue just odd and sucks that you seem to get the cracked box award every month.

Just the luck of the draw. That cabinet could have been turned into any game they were running at the time, just happened to come to me.

rd

#10663 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Bit harder to fix at the back as well as your original front corner fixes.

Probably, yeah. Haven’t looked at it yet, to be honest I’ll probably leave it be for the time being. Got other more important things to be doing.

rd

#10704 1 year ago

Nor me. Starting a mode, hitting the beige arrow Penguin hole shot, and ripping the left orbit for 2x mode is one of my favourite shots in pinball.

Probably nail it 7/10 times. Always bummed when I miss it lol

rd

#10738 1 year ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

What are the must have mods?

Glue for your cabinet corners.

rd

#10776 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

George Gomez goes over much of Deadpool but more importantly he talks quit a bit about the direction of Batman 66

Interesting how he has sorta said (on a couple of podcasts) that the turntable mech was a bit overkill.

One question I would have asked him, was what was originally designed for that area on BMTDK? I’ve heard that the “coffee can” was put there to save some BOM - so what was his original concept for that area of the PF?

rd

#10795 1 year ago

That’s a machine screw, so it screws into threaded metal somewhere.

Maybe look at the ramps, where the plastic covers go. Or the brackets off the ramps. Or the plastics that screw into the metal lane guides.

rd

#10820 1 year ago
Quoted from JimB:

Multi balls on Aerosmith doesn’t seem to score as good as BM66

Multiballs on AS can be huge scorers. Like - dominate the whole game huge.

Lock 5/6 balls (preferably 6) in the toy box - Start Sweet Emotion (or any mode) - start MB - hit the toy box a couple of times, hit a couple of lock shots, first lock starts 2x playfield then 3x playfield —- Ching Ching Ching cashing in time!

Watch the NYCPC Finals video on PapaTv on YouTube, where Bowen goes from dead last at 5m on ball 3, to winning at 200m+, just doing that sequence.

rd

#10838 1 year ago
Quoted from jfh:

I saw Gas Escape or Gas something in the adjustments today - anyone know what that is?

That’s for when you’re at the pinball show and someone does a crop duster.

rd

#10867 1 year ago

Help with your villain modes - try and start one just before the multiball.

During multiball (right when it starts is best), hold the lockbar button down for 2-3 seconds to switch the "channel" back to the villain mode.

Theres no need to have the multiball "channel" running ... you know every shot is points.

When you change channels, the inserts will be showing you where to aim to complete the villain mode. Try and hit them!

Don't forget to light the inlanes for MYSTERY and spank the left orbit to get your add-a-ball for the MB.

I could be wrong - but I don't think you can ADD TIME to the villain mode from MYSTERY when the MB is running. If you can, it would be after ADD A BALL as that is always first.

If you are running the Villain mode in single ball play, ADD TIME is invaluable. It will always be the first MYSTERY award during a villain mode.

Running 2x or 3x playfield multipliers during the Villain modes can be very lucrative. ADD TIME will also add time to this, as well as the Villain mode.

rd

10
#10877 1 year ago

New code seems to work ok.

rd

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#10881 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

F U RD!!!
Put the glass back on.
Btw, Shame is a bitch

And F U too, Icey.

Shame is a hero!

Here’s a strategy to get high scores. (My one)

Just before you start your first MB, start the first Mad Hatter villain. The first villain on the screen. Beat him, and he will allow you to play all the villains over and over.

Then play Shame over and over again.

Then play Shame some more.

I probably played 10 Shame rounds in that 4.5b game.

Try and start Mr Freeze before the second MB. I did that, but didn’t finish him, otherwise the score likely would be much better.

That was the strategy for the 7.5b game too.

rd

#10912 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

When I first bought B66 I had my scores on my first games like 4B...
I immediately opened the outlanes, installed smaller post rubbers and set the multiball settings to hard (you must complete the targets for each lock now). Especially the last change made a huge difference!
Games are now shorter but an in the zone game can still deliver good points.
problem is that when your ball times become too long, the multipliers on the shots increment, and combine that with an (abusive) mr freeze completed never ending playfield multiplier that eventually ends up with 5x, and a shame 'all day'... (for the time it will last )
I'm quite sure that these scores will disappear in the future once balancing kicks in.
Also to be played on 3balls, 5 balls is too much I think.

Pretty much how mine is set up.

Otherwise, you’d be playing it for hours. I sold my LOTR because games went so long I just didn’t enjoy it. Never got to valinor though. Haha. The flippers would get weak after 40-45 mins and shooting the ring was nearly impossible. Even had the updated coils.

I think that BM66 4b game was like 45 minutes long? And the 7.5b game must have been an hour. But the stars need to align to get a 3b plus score, the averages would be more like 400-1b range.

That 12b game must have been 90 minutes long ...

rd

#10920 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewinBombers:

You folks are insane. I get so many power drains off the slings (wide open outlanes) that I feel amazing if I get 1B.

You’re not wrong there. Power drain from right sling to left out lane would be my most common “method of dismissal”.

No saving it, once it slams into those metal rails. Bammmmm!

rd

#10922 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

All this talk about hour long games. If the game were setup hard - is the code still setup to make mini wizard modes in under 10-15 minutes? And wizard mode in under 20-25 minutes? Hence giving you a max 30 minute game but hopefully not evey other game? Or is this title the next LOTR (which is one of my favorite pins of all time might I add).

It’s probably more LOTR than anything else, cause there’s so much to do.

Yes, you could catch all the Villains at the first jackpot stage and be in villain escape within 10-20 mins. But that’s not where the points are.

Same with minor villains - you could do the 3 seasons in 15 mins and be at that mini wiz.

Other side of the coin - if getting to the Wizards was too easy, we all would have sold it by now.

That’s the genius of Lyman. He gets it. Plenty there for everyone. Easy enough for the beginner player to get something going, and feel some accomplishment- yet heaps there to keep the better players interested.

He gets the perfect balance.

rd

#10926 1 year ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

The game before I put up the 12 billion, I don't think I broke 200 million. I had 2 balls drain off the slings, where the ball hits the sling, but not hard enough to activate the switch, but just hard enough to bounce off the rubber on slings and right in between the flippers. That's pinball for you.
Games that have improved my pinball skills: Iron Man VE, Transformers LE, Ghostbusters LE, GOT LE and Star Wars LE. They all have the same thing in common, being extremely fast and hard to get control of the ball. Only game on the list I haven't reached the wizard mode on that list is Star Wars...I came within 2 shots of getting there. Those are the games I play the most in my collection.
Iron Man VE is the one that keeps getting me back the most. My high on it is 137 million. I keep trying for that elusive 200 million...but that game is brutal.

Pretty much mirrors my experiences.

BM66 - you can totally get a 30m game. I had one the other day which went sling-drain 3x in a row. But when you get your shots dialed in, away you go. Very much like LOTR in that regard.

Ironman is a great game to improve your skills on. My best is 150m ish too - but any game over 100m is a banger.

I’d add Xmen into that mix as well. Tight shots = get better or get nowhere.

Plus lots of play on older SS pins. Learn to make your shots or get wasted.

One thing I’d encourage everyone to do is play ten games in a row, and see how consistant you are. I’ve really worked towards trying to be as consistent as possible - doesn’t always come off, but overall I have got a lot better by thinking about what you’re doing.

Record them in this thread if you want. I found it to be a helpful exercise.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-consistent-are-you-play-10-games-in-a-row-record-your-scores/

rd

#10930 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

and set the multiball settings to hard (you must complete the targets for each lock now). Especially the last change made a huge difference

I meant to reply to this - on factory settings, one hit to the lock switches lights all three locks for the first MB.

But on subsequent multiballs, you have to hit the lock switches each time to light each lock, as you described.

So the Hard settings only really adjust the first MB - after that, every MB is single lock.

Just for everyone’s FYI.

rd

3 weeks later
#11078 1 year ago
Quoted from jorant:

May I ask you guys a question: this or walking dead premium. Which is the better game? How's the code in this compared to that?

If you’re going TWD save some bucks and go pro. The Prem/LE lift ramp is bad - magnet in front of wellwalker is whatever - Austin Powers cannon is whatever - the only advantage is the walker bombs that pro doesn’t have.

Which creates a quandary as BM66 is only available as a premium at considerably more cost.

They’re both cool - and would complement each other nicely if you could get both of them.

Of course the answer is to play both and see what you prefer.

Me personally - if I had to choose one, I’m 50/50. Can’t decide between the two. Possibly bm66 as it has a little more variety in gameplay which would make it better in a small collection. Yeah, I’m saying BM66.

But you can’t go wrong with either.

rd

#11085 1 year ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Did you ask the guys in “The Walking Dead” forum to see if some of them will say Batman 66?

I almost said TWD. 49/51.

rd

#11087 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

I own and love both in LE form but BM66 is the better game. Like Dave says it’s close, really close but BM66 wins imo!

I’ve just spent the night competing on TWD LE - if the competition was between that and BM66 (any version) it would be 99/1 to BM66 hahaha

Pro is ssoooooooo much better.

Lifting ramp sucks balls.

Cannon is stupid.

Dooooooooh

rd

#11099 1 year ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I have my first ever magnetized ball. Is this common on this machine? Do I need to replace the balls?

Common on any sort of machine with magnets if you use the wrong balls.

Not all balls will get magnetised - you could use 30 of the same sort and only one could become magnetised. Then it’ll get stuck to another ball in the trough and you’ll wonder what’s broken ....

So use only “won’t magnetise” balls in pins with magnets.

rd

#11102 1 year ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I think I put the high gloss ninja balls in...not sure, might have been the silver jets.

If in doubt, read instructions.

Ninja: https://ballbaron.com/product/ninja-super-shiny-chrome-pinball-g10/

A must-have for non-magnetic games and works fine in most games with magnets.
NOTE: Some players report that certain games which use magnets that rapidly move the ball back and forth over the magnet (Dialed In, some modern Stern games) can cause chrome pinballs including the Ninja ball to become magnetized over time, possibly leading to balls sticking together. This does not happen suddenly but over 100+ games. Many buyers have had no issues with the chrome balls in most magnetic games, but your mileage may vary.

Silverjet: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-SJ5

SILVERJET™ pinballs may retain magnetism if the game has magnet features.

For magnetic games, you can take your chances with the above —- or use the Ball Baron Carbon balls. Never had a carbon ball go magnetic.

https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/

rd

#11129 1 year ago

Me and Dannis nightly BM66 battle.

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She wins this one, 1,317,000,000 to my 1,205,000,000

Grrrr!!

rd

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#11139 1 year ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Rotor, do you have pics of the 126 please?... also I have to ask you this(... all due respect) are you the biggest collector of pins Worldwide?
Regards

Nope! Been to places with way more than 125. John Weeks (Pinball Museum) has 500, Tim (PHOF) supposedly has 1000.

Maybe I have the biggest collection in my HOUSE though ... most of the other large collections are in commercial buildings or barns ... and all mine are working (except for the few that are being restored, generally 2-3 at a time) Lots of large collections are stacked up in warehouses ...

You can see my place on youtube .. search RotorDave Arcade and you'll find it.

rd

#11146 1 year ago
Quoted from pauloz:

Hahaha, that would be a dude in New Zealand. Quick, edit it before Dave sees it.

New Zealand, Australia - all the same ...

Those Canadians never know the difference ...

rd

#11213 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

You can get to All modes just set the game to 10 balls, take the glass off, or enroll in #Rotordave pinball classes

Everyone welcome. I can provide the deli meats, however you’ll need to bring the Shasta on the plane as we don’t have that here. Of course, I reserve the Pepsi products for myself. And of course, no miners, or liars called Patty J.

rd

#11214 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

? I Hate games that last 2 minutes and you start over. I get a sense of accomplishment when I get further along the story/journey. I think thats why I have always loved LOTR, I Know I will never see the end of the code

Danni and I were having this discussion last night.

We both love 2 minute games. That’s really “true pinball” in our opinion. System 11 games are our jam, that’s what I grew up playing, and why I collected all 30 of them.

LOTR - just grinding that game out for an hour at a time wasn’t any fun. Just became a chore to play. Someone made me a good offer so out she went.

BM66 - different story. The 8 villain modes are all well balanced (except the first Penguin which has more points than the rest) so you can mix it up and still get a good score. Whereas GOT you really only want to play Tyrell or Martel, the other houses are no match for them (in a Comp game on a tough machine...)

BM66, everything is nicely balanced out of the box.

Each of the Minor Villains has its own risk/reward. Mr Freeze can be massive. But if you drain, he’s gone. The first Mad Hatter is awesome, he allows you to replay all the minor villains so you can use Shame to help you power through the modes. The ace in the hole though is Bookworm1 that allows the obtained power to stay until the end of the game. If you got this and then Mr Freeze, you’d have a maaaaaassive score at the end of the game if you played well. I’ve never done that, I always tend to play the same tournament strategy over and over again and try to perfect it. My new goal is to try and do that.

I’ll report back.

I find it fun to set a goal ... and great for skills practice, rather than just mindlessly bashing away. Last nights goal was to get to Iron Throne on every house on GOT - obtained the last one this morning on House Stark.

rd
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#11217 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

The ace in the hole though is Bookworm1 that allows the obtained power to stay until the end of the game

Right, had a few games and tried to beat this mode, and haven’t as yet.

Even got the extra time, and started a MB, and still didn’t beat it. Seems to require a crazy number of shots to complete.

From Tilt Forums:

Book Worm
Completion award: All minor villain awards last for the entire game instead of just during the ball that you earned it.
Shoot the only flashing yellow arrow at the atomic pile / Bat Turn spinner once, which lites other yellow shots around the PF. Then shoot X # of yellow shots to complete. Don’t know how many are required.

Note: Bookworm mode becomes easier to complete based on how many other TV modes are played and completed prior to starting Bookworm

Further in that thread, Colin MacAlpine and Aaron Grabowski are saying how they haven’t completed it either.

Has anyone done it?

I got it down to just the TV inserts flashing (no yellow shots left) so must have been pretty close ... this was starting it on Ball one, as per the blurb above maybe the shot numbers reduce as you have more modes completed.

rd

#11223 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I've completed bookworm once but mostly avoid it because of it being too hard

I think it is intentionally very hard/near impossible - because if it was easier, it would become the go-to and be so powerful that if one player got it, it would make the game totally uncompetitive.

rd

#11231 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Wow, B66 owners thread has 11228 posts and the game deserves it. Is that the most active Owners Club on Pinside?

X-Men - 11,800 I think.

So, been bashing away at Bookworm 1.

Basically impossible to finish as the first up Minor Villian. Even with 20 secs extra time and multiball. You complete all the shots and then another heap come up.

Following the theory that completed Minors reduce shots required, I completed Mad Hatter first but that didn’t seem to make a major difference. Maybe another couple of MV completions would ...

I could take the glass off and find out but that sounds like work.

rd

1 week later
#11259 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

Finally joined the club with full payment to our distributor done, pickup next Monday. I was down on a Deadpool but while away I played a Deadpool and Batman 66 and the Batman was more fun and much more nostalgic

I think you made a very good decision.

I found Deadpool to be underwhelming.

Remove the sweet Yeti artwork and there’s nothing much there. It makes Ironman look packed.

Good pin for location play - good theme and looks good - it’ll attract players and earn money. And that’s what pins are made for. We forget that sometimes.

Re BM66 mods - if you read this thread, you’d think you need everything. However, you need nothing. I have the Stern art blades and they look sweet. They’re the only art blades I own. Someone bought them for me.

As previously mentioned, double check your turntable is square to the playfield. It can move in transport. Easy to adjust with 3x bolts under the PF.

rd

#11261 1 year ago