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(Topic ID: 167576)

Batman 66 - Official Club Thread

By TigerLaw

4 years ago

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  • 16,256 posts
  • 613 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by docquest
  • Topic is favorited by 231 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

47 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #366 Adding the Batsignal to LE Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #402 Very detailed review Posted by MT45 (3 years ago)

Post #457 DocQuests Helicopter comparison. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #463 Docquest's vehicle comparison Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #501 Version 0.65 Code released Posted by PiperPinball (3 years ago)

Post #564 Docquest's helicopter install. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #1159 Adjusting the Magnet Posted by PiperPinball (3 years ago)

Post #1234 Helicopter attachment. Posted by docquest (3 years ago)

Post #1314 Photos of Episode 111 Machine Posted by iceman44 (3 years ago)

Post #1322 Version 0.68 Code released Posted by ATLpb (3 years ago)

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#219 3 years ago

Getting my SLE tomorrow via R&L Carriers. Excited!

#250 3 years ago

BM66SLe #1996 is in the house! Hour and 40 to get her set up. Box had some extrior damage but I cut a small peep hole in it before uncrating and it appeared (and was) fine. I Still have not played a game as I'm crafting a playfield protector first. Game is (as many others have said) simply STUNNING in person. The foil based decals are over the top. Look at the reflection of my hand in some of the pics. Pics of the unboxing step by step folloow. This is post ONE of TWO
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#252 3 years ago

BM66SLE #1996 - Post #2 of (now 3!) P1430149 (resized).JPG Unboxing pics

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#253 3 years ago

Final post #3 of 3 - enjoy!
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#307 3 years ago

Finally!!! Got a chance to play 3 games and LOVED it. Different feel than other games. Lots of fun.

Spent just under 3 hours tonight with my daughters help crafting a custom playfield protector out of PET-G material I purchased on Amazon. Only tools needed were scissors, razor knife, hole punch set and some blue tape (and patience!).

My daughter shot a time lapse video of both cutting the PET-G and then hole punching it - I was so focused on getting it done I did not even know until she showed me and surprised me - it's cool! (and posted below in 2 parts)

Pics are of the process I used to build a template. The nice thing about BM66 is that you can make one of these and install it with ONLY taking the flipper bats off!

I ran it all the way to the beginning of the left and right orbits and right to the edge of the large turntable. When and where I "cut" the protector material in those areas, I used a small piece of Hobby Lobby removable "mylar" to hold the exposed edge in place. Worked like a champ

Now I can play and keep the PF in mint shape as well

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#309 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

the extra elevation isn't getting the ball into tight spots anywhere or hitting targets slightly off desired point?

No this is really thin stuff. 0.020" or just over 1/2 millimeter. It's super stiff though and after a dozen games I cant see a single dimple. Time will tell. Before I started I cut a couple of small sample pieces and shoved them under the ball on the crane at each stopping station to see if there was clearance. I could fit 3 sheets under the crane ball at "park" and as the crane moved to the left, I eventually could park a bus under there - so no worries with the crane at all.

Crazy too that the ramps are NOT attached to the slings like in 99% of games ... this makes it incredibly easy to both work on and to add something like this. I just popped off the flipper bats and I could (with care) slide my paper template off the PF and then slide my created PF protector back in it's place without removing any more PF parts than the flippers.

I ordered the PET-G material from Amazon. Link below. It was enough to do 6 or so machines I think! When the big roll of it came, I quickly unrolled it and cut it into 19" wide sections so I could store it flat under a spare bed. Keeps it from getting a "memory" and not laying as flat as you would like. link »

You will also need a set of these punches from Amazon link »

Her's a couple pics with the blue protection film on so you can get a little better idea of how thick it is

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#311 3 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

I seem to remember someone that custom laser cut PET for pins. Anyone have a link? May be a good thing to put on BM66 day one.

Playfield Protectors

Link to thread here. I made my own because no one has had access to the BM66 machine to create one yet.
I purchased one of theirs for my Big Betty's Truck Stop pin and liked it

#327 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Would you consider making a scan of protector so others could could print it out as a starting template to make cutting their own a little easier?

I sure would. Whats the best way?

#339 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

great info. thanks.
what do you think about the difference of color & use of lighting with this PET-G on the playfield?
colors duller/darker?
lighting having any side-effects (under playfield coming up, above playfield bouncing down) ?

Labnip - honestly, the PET-G is so crystal clear I see no impact on colors. Only impact might be that its even more glossy than the original PF. To the others who have asked ... I have no plans to make the protector.

However, I've got no problem providing the file but would like to know easiest way to scan and share??

#342 3 years ago

For those interested, I would be happy to roll this up in a tube and mail it to someone who could use it to route their own? I'm 100% fine with someone making and selling them using my template. I want nothing for it but to find a way to have some made for others. PM me if you could do this ...
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#345 3 years ago

Added another mod to my 66SLE. Concerned about the pinstripe getting worn off near the flipper buttons. I cut some pieces of PET-G and crafted some protectors for each side. Removed 3 screws from Stern siderails, drill PET-G with 5/32" where screws hold it on. Used my punch set to pop out the flipper button holes, installed and they fit perfect!

BTW ... still very concerned about wearing the pinstripe on top of lockdown bar and red bat sticker around the lockdown bar action button. Only solutions I can think of are mylar or clear coat

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#352 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Does bare wood show on the front left side of the game? The last pic looks odd where the armor meets the cab...

Yes, wood but appears painted black. You can see in the attached image where the decals end and you can see the corner of the wood cabinet. The decals are "just short" of touching each other. Not an issue for me.

See other attached photo for top of LD bar. This WILL wear over time. They are simply decals with out any protection ...

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#354 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

If these wear in a HUO environment pinball is dead and buried in the wild.

I have not doubt that the pin striping will wear. If you put a sticker on an area of a PB where your hands are ALL the time, it will eventually show signs of wear or failure. See pic of the top of the LD bar. Every time you touch the center action button you are touching a decal (appears matte finished and no glossy protective overlay)

No biggie, I protect it somehow and I think replacement would be about a 10 second job if and when it got damaged.

Think games like GOT and ST - the action buttons on the top of the LD bar are surrounding by laser cut metal
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#357 3 years ago
Quoted from clg:

So just a direct decal with no clear? I assumed there was clear shows what I know!

Yes, appears that the armor was painted and then cleared, and THEN the striping was added. I thought the same thing you did - why not pinstripe, then clear?

#358 3 years ago

Anyone else have this MESS with their plaque? Pulled the protective plastic cover off and it left behind a gooey mess that only Goo Gone would remove. Cleaned it up then re-installed with a PET-G cover to protect it from scratches ...
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#362 3 years ago
Quoted from pindel:

Thanks for Video and info. Also available in 4x4 sheets. unfortunately they arrive with dings from shipping. Hopefully the smooth out. link »

Yea - my large roll came with a few dings - I cut my large sheets around the bad spots. The dings will not go away unfortunately BUT the sheets to begin to lay flat after a bit. Good luck with your install!

#368 3 years ago

Anyone getting a ball hanging up "just on the other side" of the mini-turntable (Batmobile on top) that spins inside the larger turntable? This is happening to me on every single game. The ball will roll out as the game cycles ball search. The larger turntable will spin one turn, then on the second the ball rolls out.

See image of the ball just sitting in there as it catches against the edge of the mini one ...

It appears that the mini-turntable is about 1/2mm too high?

Is there a height adjustment on it??

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#396 3 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

You need to put some plastic protector on that mech MT

OK that's both deserved and funny

#397 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

anybody's plunger a bit on the really wimpy side?
(can't believe i wrote that )
maybe tighter spring needed?

Yes. To make the skill shot using the extrended left flipper, I always choose the action button to launch as it launches stronger than a manual pull

#402 3 years ago

BM66SLE Review, gamplay, impressions and issues:

Best elements:

Theme, theme and more BM66 theme … I think Stern NAILED it (images, music, gadgets, BM66 iconography everywhere)

Foil artwork on the SLE is simply OVER the top - wow. Batman driving on one side of cab and Robin as passenger featured on other - small but very cool touch. Nice job Stern and team!

LCD display. Work to do on the asset side but the delivery and implementation of what IS there now is aweswome. Only going to get better. Colors really pop. Size is just perfect and I do find myself checking it as needed and getting the info I need quickly. Something as simple as "Ball Save" feels so much more "alive" when it's animated. Looking forward to an even better implementation on an already good one.

Not like BDK at all except for my favorite part of BDK - the crane!

Signed PF by both Gomez and Lyman (if your into that personalized stuff as I am)

LOVE the Batmobile sounds when you hit the large turntable - the roar of the jet/nuclear engine!

Easy to see what you are supposed to do - hit the arrows or lit inserts - will get more complex I know

The crane! Love it and loved it on BDK as well. Sounds when hit is perfect, and the risk when chasing it is a little high (drives some STDM bounce backs!)

Lock mech is very cool. Right orbit is always tough for most players (including me) - think TOM, GOT, etc. So placing it there is good and the mech is genius and interesting in that the lock can be qualified but will NOT always be present for you to send a ball in as the turntable rotates to a "non-lockable" position … sorry Batman, you'll just have to wait or hammer than turntable and get the lock exposed again.

I also really like the early implementation of the large Turntable mech. It is fun to shoot at and some of the targets (Bat computers) are challenging to hit. I'm bettting this will improve and get even more fun. I'm hoping it stays trouble free as well!

Love the tight right ramp. It's not steep so a less than perfect shot will still make it

Magnet is huge addition to gameplay. Unpredictable but not unfair (drains). I do not own any other Stern titles where the magnet provides such variation to the gameplay but I really enjoy the unpredictability. Cant really count GBLE as those are impacting the sling area but it is similar in it's effect except that the BM66 magnet seems more violent and fast as well.

Outlanes set from factory at wide open are perfect. Drains left or right have been caused by slings more than anything.

The sound/audio is outstanding. Great fidelity and decent bass for no external subwoofer. Highs are crisp and not muted. Voices are easy to understand. The EXCEPTION to this is the original source material like the call out for Multiball - "Get 'em or shoot 'em Pengy … " or something like that is a call out from the TV series and is hard to understand. Maybe a little more processing to clean it up would help

The black armor is perfect. Speckling and the gloss black base fits the theme to a "T"

Easy to post pass and roll passes from flipper to flipper work as well.

As above code and call-outs, but confidence that they will come over time

Answering the phone on turntable will always leave one more ring AFTER you gave completed the shot, sometimes causing you to take another

Exposed pinstriping on lockdown and armor - this needs to be addressed and I've got a fix for mine for the side armor but am going to experiment for the LD bar where all the real risk is. Your hands are on the LD bar 100% of the time and covering a good portion of the pinstriping. Might try mylar later.

The Action button decal on the lockdown bar is a cheap looking decal that could have been a centerpiece jewel of an opportunity to deliver a better more high end experience. I'm SURE the modding community will jump on this to improve. Laser cut stainless, or "black-out stainless" in the form of the batsignal to surround the action button would be awesome!

Related to coding but worth mentioning is the ball clearing logic. When you've got 2 locked balls and the machine goes into ball search and it gets as far as rotating the turntable … you will have only 1 ball to play and you will lose all of your locked MBs. They will be released as the TT rotates but the game is not yet coded to know that this has happened so .. When you drain the first one - they are all gone.

Related to balls getting stuck. I'm having a persistent problem with the smaller turntable. When shooting into the Batcave below the Batmobile the ball will sometime get just past the back edge of that smaller turntable and rest against the edge and just sit there. Appears that the smaller turntable is about 1/2 mm too high. Lifter the PF earlier today and I can see that deep inside that big mech is a post and an allen set screw. I'm not at all sure that this is the way to adjust height so leaving for now. Ball search will eventually clear it after 2 of the quarter rotations of the larger turntable

Timing/Customer Service: Game was supposed to be delivered by Christmas. Why mention that if it could not be done? I got it after I had to get back to work. No extra time to get familiar with the game. No time for friends to come over to enjoy it. I was looking forward to a few days, with few interruptions to enjoy my game over Christmas - no luck.

Finally - no topper. I paid for one (OK perhaps even overpaid), I saw pictures of one but I did not get one with my game. Instead, I received an email from Stern explaining that it would be shipped in January. I'm fairly certain that Stern would not ship me a BM66SLE without me FIRST paying for it. Why is it OK for them to then ship me less than a whole game for that payment. Seems like I should have sent them say $1,000 less than full payment until they were ready to ship? Sound petty? Maybe, but there are leagues of companies out there with reputations for doing it differently and better. Stern could improve SIGNIFICANTLY here. If I was Gary … I would have personally called ALL 80 SLE owners and explained both the Christmas deadline miss and topper issue. Could have said thanks at the same time. It's not WHAT went wrong in business but how you respond that counts.

I still like Stern. I'll remain a Stern customer. I believe the leadership to be good and honorable people. I think they have wonderful programmers and designers - best in the industry … I just think they need to develop a higher level of Customer Service.

Ball times are long as the outlanes are very forgiving due to game geometry.

The flipper gap is 54mm ... compared to TOM @53, FS @53, BOP @49, LOTR, GOT & ST @ 50mm each. My feeling is that the physical width has less to do with center drains than the geometry/design of the game. LOTR has crazy long ball times but the flipper gap is no different than many modern Sterns. Same with BM66. Widest gap of all I measured but I have zero complaints about a high amount of center drains.

Stern is using a Dayton branded driver for the large cabinet "subwoofer" - great quality vs. price combo - good job. Probably should have followed suit with the uppers (vs. Jensen) but the Jensen sounds fine as stated above. (see pic)

Left orbit is very tight at left edge of ramp BUT it's surprising how easy this shot is to make even as tight as it is (barely wider than a ball)

The left ramp appears to be attached to the PF is a new way (new to me) it does not appear as rigidly attached as the right ramp OR any other ramp I have on any other game. Anyone else see this?

Notes to owners/Setup problems:
Check your tilt bob mech. The factory installed mine quite off center and even though the bob was adjusted way down, the tilt was both sensitive and oddly responsive. The ring was way off center (easy fix)

There are no head bumpers/pads for when you tilt the pF up (Stern forgot them?) see pic

You might want to use the center action button to plunge on the "left flipper up" skillshot attempt. It delivers the ball with more force and speed.

My batsignal in the upper right was pointing downward all the time. I tilted it up to the correct position and added a dab of E600 to both hinge areas - now it's perfect

The action button on my LD bar would not do anything when I turned on the machine for the first time. I adjusted the switch and works perfect now (same issue with my ST Premium and points to some QC opportunities for Stern)

The SLE plaque on mine (and on at least one other Pinsiders) had a ton of sticky "goo" on it left after removing the protective covering. Had to use Goo Gone to remove and it was a 20 minute plus effort! (see my post)

I've had one time where the ball was pushed too far back into the "Riddler" saucer hole. Shook the game, ball moved and I was back in business. I share this because others had this issue more frequently and persistently. Looks like an engineering isse that could be fixed with a mod or drop dead foam.

Playfield protectors work and work VERY well. I custom cut my own (see Pinside thread) and I have zero dimples after a hundred games. Mine is cut from PETG that I bought from Amazon. Glad I got it and glad I took 3 hours to create/cut a template for it. Soon I would imagine these will be available from the folks in Germany (Playfield Protectors)

I also created some rail protectors using the same PETG material (see pic)

The 3 translights that come with the SLE appear to have different finishes on each - one has texture and "shiny" areas and the other 2 are simply flat printing. Interesting and not sure why but there you go

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#404 3 years ago

Hate to hog the thread but need to add a few things to help others.

Went to play a few games this afternoon and found a screw sitting on my magnet and two washers as well laying around the playfield.
Spent 45 minutes examining every tiny bit of the game. The screw is a self tapper. Checked all the ramps first. Checked switch mounting plates, everywhere and could not find the place where they were missing. I had just tipped up the PF earlier in the day and had I found ONLY one of the 3 pieces I might have shrugged it off to a leave behind from the factory but 3 pieces had me worried.

This led me to start looking where you might not be able to see the screw. I mucked around on the turntable and noticed my batmobile could move fore and aft a tiny bit - did not make sense that it needed to do this so ...

I unscrewed the 2 bolts that hold it (careful as there are 2 large washers under the pink plastic piece), turned it over and POW .. one of the screws and it's 2 offset washers had fallen out. The other was just about to do the same.

These are self tappers with a very rough thread so I did not think threadlocker (Loctite) would help. So I added 3 or 4 drops of E6000 flexible adhesive into the tapped holes in the Hotwheel Batmobile. Put the 2 washers under the car first, add back the pink lexan plastic piece and then screw in your self-tappers. Re-install - good to go.

Also - note that if your Atomic Stack sign was installed poorly from the factory like mine was, I just pulled it using a razor knife and re-installed. It came off and went back on fine. Just FYI

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#407 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Thanks for documenting these issues. If I ever get my game I'll have a head start up on what to inspect after I unbox it.

Happy to do it and still enjoying every game I play!

#417 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Game looks nice - in fact it looks like you painted the wall that color just to make the machines integrate just right in the surroundings

Thanks. Agree that this art is classy!

Quoted from taz:

So, keep an eye there, because that could cause some damage if it's not found quickly.

Great advice, and nice work fixing it. I see that you keep a stash of E6000 on hand as I do. Love the use of whiskey as a pinball repair tool ☺☺

#431 3 years ago

OK - promised I was going to do something about that exposed pinstripe on the lockdown bar. Was considering a total mylar wrap, vs just a "piece" of mylar. Then considered "spot clear coating" BUT, that seemed like it might get messy with taping and getting a finish with no "edge". So ... In the end, I went with the easiest solution and just added some small pieces of mylar.

I placed a strip of mylar on each pinstripe. Wide enough to fully cover and leave some mylar extra to adhere to painted LD bar. Also left a small tab of mylar at top (I just cut it long) in order to wrap "under" the LD bar after install. Print out the attached template and make certain it prints at the measured scale on the templates. Measure the long leg of the pinstrip template - should be 158mm to 160mm. If it's "off" by more than 2mm on that measure, change the scaling on your printer dialogue options menu.

I also made a mylar cover for the Bat Gadget decal.

When I placed the pinstripe mylar, I started from the outside edge, got that nearly right hand angle lined up (there should be an even amount of mylar on every side of the pinstrip and it's about 4mm total), then made sure the LONG part of the mylar was aligned up and down for a nice even distribution above and below the pinstrip ... then I carefully "wiped" with my finger from the outside toward the middle of the LD bar.

Tip: Use a piece of the old mylar backing to "hold" the mylar as you install or you'll introduce finger oils to the mylar reducing it's stickiness and leaving a fingerprint.

BTW, I used real mylar, not the temporary stuff I sometimes use for other purposes (to tack down a playfield protector for instance). I think it would be important to get max adhesion ... if not you might get a situation where the temporary type stuff starts to release from the LD bar but it might bring some of your pinstripe with it. End of the day, not sure how big of a deal it would be as adding a new pinstripe would be fairly straightforward.

Hope this helps others and I'll report back on how well it's holding up after play.

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#432 3 years ago

A few more close ups for those that need them.
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#436 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

MT just to confirm is the pin stripe detailing on the SLE a decal or genuine pin striping? I can pretty much tell looking at your close ups but wanted to know for certain and awesome work on the protection Stern should hire you as their QC guy to make their pins bullet proof

If you mean is it an actual painted stripe vs a decal ... it's a decal. Easier to add to the game in the factory and easier for us to replace should we need to! Thanks for the kind words. Starting to really enjoy this pin. Can't wait for topper tomorrow and some more code ... man could this use more than 2 call-outs!

In Lyman, we trust

#437 3 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Sorry MT45, I just couldn't live with the mylar lines I'm seeing in those pics!
Def need to send that lockdown bar out for a professional clear job over the striping.
Doc, are you waiting on Game Room too?

Yea, that's why I posted. I was sure some folks would be fine and others not. I'm pretty picky but honestly it bothers me not

#475 3 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Why are there three holes on each side of the top front backbox metal frame. Does any part of the topper connect to this. Should a rubber piece go here like they used to install?

Great question. When you tip up the playfield, there is nothing for it to rest against. Looks as if there should have been a rubber bumper there. I have placed a towel there in its absence whenever I tip up the PF

#476 3 years ago

Thought you'd all like to see the new T-shirts I ordered for my wife and I. Saw them on the special features section of the BM66 Blu-ray set I bought.The guy that owns Fiberglass Freaks in Indiana is interviewed and he makes reproduction Batmobiles. Thought the shirt was cool and you can order on his website. It does have his business name on the reverse.

Go the the "Store" link on his website

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#481 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I've leveled my game pretty well I think but getting lots of rattled shot on left orbit and bricks off front of left ramp? Any tips on smoothing out these shots? Play better?

Rattled shots on left orbit will be the norm for any shot that is not "near perfect". Next time you have the glass off, hold a ball up there next to the's barely enough room for a ball to pass! Really tight so it requires good accuracy.

And, yes ... I need to play better too

#486 3 years ago
Quoted from bjorg:

It arrived at last! #1999! Couldn't be happier with the number and card!

Congrats fellow SLE owner and enjoy it! Still having a blast with mine. Share some pics when you can.

#600 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Been playing mine a lot today and so far just one issue and its driving me nuts. Ball couldnt get out of the crane scoop. After closer inspection I saw a screw in the bottom if the scoop. Ive combed over the entire playfield but cant figure out where the heck that screw came from.

Check out my thread here ... might be same screw.

#809 3 years ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Quite often getting the ball stuck on the back edge of the batmobile spinner. Have to wait for ball search to knock it free. Is there a leveling adjustment hidden underneath somewhere?

Same issue. Pic attached ...anyone been brave enough to tackle adjusting the turntable mech yet? I'm game to try almost anything in the pinball world, but that is one complex looking mech
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#817 3 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

How do those protectors install anyway, do you have to remove basically everything on a playfield to get them on? Seems like a PITA, anyone know

These are easy to install. Added one made by the folks in Germany to my BBTS.

Just built my own for BM66SLE. The BM is even easier as the ramps are not installed on the slings. ...

Thread here:

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#819 3 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

That is what makes me think this purchased one would be way harder to install without taking everything off? Yours looks like very minimal needed?

Yes, my design provides less protection but simpler installation. I don't care about ball trails up around the orbits. I don't care about protection the top lanes or the pops area. There's factory mylar in there. You could buy theirs and just cut off the parts you don't want. I did that for the Big Betty's Truckstop as well. Know that you'll need to then tack down that exposed edge using mylar or temp mylar.

I'm going to send them an email to give them a heads up that they will need to add two small "ears" of material to the left and right of the piece of the protector just below the turntable. (They probqbly already know this). My original template did not have these designed in and I HAD TO add them afterward. There are 2 small cavities built into those areas that allow the pinball to be pushed into as the turntable spins to help alleviate jamming the mech. If you don't have those small pieces the ball gets pushed into those cavities and off the edge of the protector, then can't rollback over that 2mm edge. I cut 2 small pieces of material afterward and mylar ed them in and it now works perfect ... see image for area.

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#837 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

For home use it may stay shiny for quite some time. Since you can just clip the back off it and put it in BM66 with little effort there really isn't too much of a downside

Agreed. That's why I designed, cut and installed one ... no downside.

Quoted from Cserold:

It has to diminish the visual appearance of the playfield, right?

Not in the slightest. I was worried too but these are crystal clear. If anything, shinier than the original PF

Quoted from Pimp77:

That being said, I got my Hobbit with a pf protector installed and love it. It looks nice, quiets the game, and protects

Agree. I see no change in game play or feel.

Quoted from iceman44:

How do you know if you have a defective PF if you use the protector?

Ice is correct, the only downside is you just don't know as I will never expose the PF to the ball.
At this point I have ZERO dimples after over 100 plays (not counting 4 very small marks on the magnet that were put there by Stern during factory testing)
I'm a believer in them for the below examples:

I think these are good for 3 types of machines ...

1) a high end machine that you want to keep mint for future value
2) a lower end machine that can be made more playable due to dished inserts
3) a machine that has had the mylar removed and was never factory cleared and you don't want to spend the time/money to clear it

I have a Big Betty's Truck Stop that falls in #3 type above. I bought that protector from the guys in Germany and the material is the exact same as my homemade one (PET-G)

Love 'em.

Picture is of my homemade one installed. Even hard to see it

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#839 3 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Do the new pf protectors slow the ball speed down at all? Or collect link/dirt easier? I bought one 2 years ago from that company in Germany for my T2 and we hated it. Slowed the ball down, like the ball was floating. Plus it attracted alot of dust/lint, etc

Great question, but no. They are made from PET-G now, not Makralon. Faster, thinner and less static, but yes ... there is some. You will see some dust under it over time. I'm willing to put up with a little dust under it to avoid the moonlike cratering that I've seen

BM66 is easy to remove and clean if needed.

Guys, I was as sceptical as you all. Especially of the whole "this will protect against dimpling" premise. How could it?

It does, and well

#866 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

I'm going to send them an email to give them a heads up that they will need to add two small "ears" of material to the left and right of the piece of the protector just below the turntable. (They probqbly already know this). My original template did not have these designed in and I HAD TO add them afterward. There are 2 small cavities built into those areas that allow the pinball to be pushed into as the turntable spins to help alleviate jamming the mech. If you don't have those small pieces the ball gets pushed into those cavities and off the edge of the protector, then can't rollback over that 2mm edge. I cut 2 small pieces of material afterward and mylar ed them in and it now works perfect ... see image for area.

I've been in contact with Mirco and have shared very detailed images, templates and measures ... he's on it.

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#870 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Do you have any closeup pics of the bottom rollover lanes?
Is it tricky to get the right oval shape to avoid ball hangups there?

Pic below. I simply copied generally how the team at Playfield Protectors cut theirs ... cut in an elongated oval.
I tried to first punch a hole in each end using my smallest center hole punch but the material deformed.
Finally just used a razor knife and cut a gentle curve left, then right - done, never had a ball even slow down, let alone stop.

Quoted from docquest:

Did anyone take your template you offered earlier? If its still available I could get a digital image of it made and post it here so people could print it out and use it as a starting point to making their own template

I shipped it off days ago, sorry. That person has been given full permission to make and or sell as they see fit (in fact, I hope they do)
Better yet, I'm know that Mirco has announced the release a quality protector very soon!

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#875 3 years ago

Heads up on potential issue with LEDs under slings. They are pretty close to the edge of the rubbers and apparently one of mine made contact with the ball as it shoved the sling rubber back.

Cracked the top right off.

Replaced with some purple max

Original white LED'S in last pic

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#880 3 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

MT does the owner of your template know about the extra tabs that need to be added? Also who sells these purple max leds? Thanks!

Yes, see thread #866 above ... he's on it. Already has it redrawn.

#882 3 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Not Mirco but the other person that has your personal template you originally made. Sorry for the confusion.

Yes, he does as well. I added them to the template before shipping it out. Hopefully we will see these get made very soon

#884 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

So these will be made by the pinball protectors guys in germany or did you send it to someone else? Im sure the getman guys make a nice product but $150 shipped seems a bit high since your $36 piece from amazon was big enough to do multiple games. I was hoping for a US based person so shipping would be more reasonable.

They will be made by the folks in Germany, and I also made one and shipped it to an individual here on Pinside to see if he could get his buddy to laser cut and sell them. I would order from the Germany team in a second as I've ordered from them in the past and the product was good.

#906 3 years ago
Quoted from Georgeh:

Some are saying the spinner is .5 mm to high which is the same height as the playfield protector . So if u install the protector in theory all should be level

I was one of those folks saying the "mini turntable" (the small one inside the larger one) was about 1/2 mm too high. Still think it is but as you can see n the pic, the part that is too high is inside the turntable mech. The playfield protector does not go on the mech and as such is about 4 to 5 inches away from the spot the ball hangs up on. 20170107_165039 (resized).jpg

#908 3 years ago

Was watching some BM66 tonight (somewhere around episode 34-36 or so) and went down to play a game afterward.
Realized that one of the first "mods" I did was to add the Pinball Life red "Pinguard Nylon Legbolt" washers (red). Never took the time to share the pic

Small but nice touch

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#910 3 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

I like the washers, but I think I would also go with black leg bolts.

Thx. Never considered that the gold doesn't fit the theme, but you're right. I'll try a set and see.

#952 3 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

I'd prefer from the rear but that's just me! Sorry I couldn't resist.

Saw that coming and was hoping for it too .... sounds like Burgess Meredith on Grumpy Old Men. Funny that's something the "Penguin" would say in a later movie.

#993 3 years ago

Happened again. LED in sling (specifically the right top led) ... ball is impacting. Replaced with flat tops this time.

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#999 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

That lens looks wide, compared to the standard insert bulb..weird....looked at mine tonight....close, but would take a massive hit for the sling rubber to hit the dome of bulb

The broken one in the pic is a comet Optmax purple that I replaced the stock (broken) LED just 2 nights ago

Quoted from jfh:

What is a flat top and why do you think that will be better?

Flat top is the bare SMD of a 44 bulb ... no dome cover (see image)
I think these will work better as there is nothing for the ball/sling rubber to lever against as its too low. We will see

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#1005 3 years ago
Quoted from 82Trooper:

On a side note......the orange I am seeing under your it this product? link » Batman 66 Florescent Protector 8 Piece Set Orange
I like the look on your game, and seeing it close up, I want to ensure what you have.Thanks.

Stock item from Stern on SLE models so I'm not sure that the Ebay item is an exact match

Quoted from hank527:

Take out the clear washers. The sling plastics are too high. With orange protectors you do not need the washers.

Probably a good idea but the metal washers, the orange sling plastic protectors were all factory items. I switched the metal fender washers for some clears for appearance purposes.

When you say "too high" what impact does that have on gameplay or are you simply referring to the cosmetics? Easy enough to pull them for sure

#1022 3 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Got my topper yesterday. Getting my pin finally tomorrow.
Wondering if R & L F ed it up somehow. Sat in Dallas for several days until i called and inquired wtf?

Post lots of pics Ice! You might not sleep tonight!

#1042 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Any premium owners wanna post a pic of whats inside your backbox? Any node boards at the top?

SLE back box of topper hookup and beam

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#1109 3 years ago

Thought I'd share a mod I just completed with my BM66SLE

I was dissapointed with the color saturation of the red light topper. It just appeared too pink to me, not deep red enough like a real police or emergency type light.

To fix it, I bought some photo filters on Amazon - you'll get more colors than you want but the cost is cheap ($11.99) - you just need the red color link »

Reminder as you can see in the pics, the gel filters come with both side protected by plastic that must be peeled off.

You can use my templates to save a bunch of time if you decide to do this - most of the time was making the template for each section.

You'll be adding red filter material to: Sides of dome, top of dome and each side flasher
- When you add the filter to the sides of the dome, put the seam to the back and add a piece of tape to hold in place
- The "back" of the dome is easy to find as there are 2 screw holes closest together (opposite the single screw in the front)
- The side flashers are put in by folding down the tab and tucking the "wings" into the inside of the rest of the filter material
- Then just force it in ... it's VERY tight and tough to push down as the filter material is stiff - stick with it, you can't really hurt it
- The dome piece (the circle) is the easiest, just cut it, peel the protective material off and drop it in UNDER the 2 screws - they will hold it in place, no tape needed

I am VERY pleased by how deep red the color is now - very happy with the results

2 videos show before (front and top views)
2 videos show after (front and top view)

It's even more impressive in person!

Before front view

After front view

Before top view

After top view

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#1135 3 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

MT45, thanks for putting us all to shame and making me feel so inferior! Great job, now I have to see how good that looks and then look at my topper
Btw, I've got #111 sitting in the box as I left town.
That's either the Jokes on Catwoman or some gadget I suppose

Easy fix Ice if you decide to go that route - PM for advice
BTW congrats on #111 ... cant wait to see pics of it!

Quoted from Manimal:

Awesome! I was just at the hobby shop this weekend looking for the red filter material. You did EXACTLY what I was looking to do and for the same reason. As a retired cop, I want RED, not half-assed Red/Orange! lol Thanks for the link

I'm with you! Red (not pink) doggone it! BTW thanks for your service ... underappreciated profession these days

#1136 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Added yellow tissue paper to my four lower inlane and outlanes. Much much better.
If code changes and the nodes eventually make them go nuts (like in GOT? But I don't think that's possible here) and it looks weird eventually... easily removed. For now much better.

Is it as simple as sliding it in? I think it looks excellent. Wondering if I now have a use for my yellow photo filter materials

#1149 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

I'm working on a fix for the ball flying off the left ramp.
Does anyone know of a store that sells hex spacers?

Pinball Life. I just ordered a bunch and have ordered in the past. Many sizes available

#1182 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Ice is correct, the only downside is you just don't know as I will never expose the PF to the ball.
At this point I have ZERO dimples after over 100 plays (not counting 4 very small marks on the magnet that were put there by Stern during factory testing)

OK ... update time. I'm working with the folks from Germany doing some test fitting of the new PF protector for BM66 (you're going to love it. Nice fit, total coverage and not too hard to install).

In the process of test fitting theirs ... I had to remove mine. While off, I checked the playfield carefully.

I DID find some dimples. Not deep ones like on my unprotected GBLE and not as numerous, but they are there.

Thought I'd update the record to show that although the protector provides excellent protection, it's not 100%.

As Vid always says wood vs steel ball, ball wins.

I would still (and will keep mine on) reccomend a protector if you're so inclined. They are cheap and look good and "do no harm" while providing the best level of protection you can get short of not playing your machine

To even see the dimples I had to light the PF just right. I tried to take a pic that made them most visible. You can not see them during play.

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#1186 3 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

1) Does it have the wings for the turntable?
2) what do you have to take off the playfield to install it?
3) are you going to recommend any modifications?

It's well done and works great as I've tested it for about a dozen games so far
Wings for turntable have been added and they were perfect size, worked extremely well.
Magnet is completely covered (just like my homemade one) and works well.
Install is about 2 hours max if you don't have to stop and document, shoot photos etc.
Getting the protector around the crane mech is the biggest challenge because I chose not to remove it
I just slipped the protector "around" the crane and wiggled/wrestled it into place
If you know how to remove the crane, it would dramatically speed things up - I did not
As you slip the protector around the crane, you must place something under the ball or you will scratch the protector
These instructions are close but may not be perfect
Stripping the PF:
·         Remove left ramp
·         Cut zip ties on left ramp switch
·         Remove switch from left ramp
·         Remove right ramp
·         Remove batcycle
·         Remove pop bumper cover under batcycle
·         Remove one way ball gate right orbit
·         Remove unhook switch on right orbit, twist out of way
·         Remove flippers
·         Move penguin crane using crane diagnostic
·         Slide protector over crane
·         Slide thick sheets of paper UNDER crane ball or protector WILL GET SCRATCHED
·         Work the protector at left orbit first and get placed into upper orbit
·         Work spinner area next (challenging)
·         Work pop bumpers and upper lanes last
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Added over 4 years ago: Adding a small edit to this post. When I typed "remove ramp" I actually meant remove wire habitrail. The physical left and right ramps can stay in place. No need to remove them (they are bolted under the play field)

Added over 4 years ago: Note that you will want to get the leading edge of the protector UNDER the ramp flaps. This will make sure to keep the ball path smooth and as original to game design as possible. You may get ball hop if you place the protector material on TOP of your ramp flaps. To get them under the flaps, it MAY be necessary to loosen (not remove) the ramp assembly by the nuts under the play field. Right ramp has 2 easily accessible nuts.

#1229 3 years ago

Completed another mod tonight on BM66SLE.

Replaced the Hot Wheels style Batcopter with the much more detailed "Eaglemoss" version

Couple of notes:
- It fits, but you'll need to very slightly bend the stock piano wire "backward" a bit (it will hit the glass if you dont)
- This thing is expensive (I paid around $40) and very fragile
- I broke the following just mounting it: the antenna, left landing gear, one fuel tank, and one wing strut (and no, I did not step on it)
- See attached pic of how I removed the black screw in the bottom and then used a speed nut to capture the piano wire
- Front of landing gear is simply a black zip tie, just like the Hot Wheel one was mounted
- The red on the copter is a more muted red vs the bright red hot wheels. Having just watched the 1966 Batman feature movie, the Eaglemoss color is just about perfect.
- The rotor blades (front and rear) do not rotate like the Hot Wheels one does - FYI

Handle it with care when you are mucking around getting the black screw/speed nut on and go slow and dont stress parts when zipping up the zip tie - again ... it's fragile. The stress came mostly from trying to get that speed nut, screw and piano wire combo on there and tightened up. The tightening is what is hard to do because there is nothing to "hold on to" on the copter as almost everywhere you grab is pointy, thin and feels like you might snap it.

Good news is that you can (I did) glue all my broken parts back on and I'm betting that my glued spots are stronger than all other spots!! (Did I mention it's fragile)

Looks good in there and is about 30-40% larger than the stock Hot Wheels one

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#1235 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

hmmm... too much work. probably easier to pay someone & ship it

Truer words were never spoken. I bought some piano wire from Pinrestore - glad I got it but wow ... just wow. Bending this stuff is an art to say the least. Not too hard to bend it, but challenging to get the exact shape you want! Fortunately it's cheap and you can practice until right.

Quoted from jfh:

You happen to know a part number for that wire? LEs and Premiums don't have it.
Is the black screw the one that comes on the Eaglemoss?

Yes, the black screw is already there - very convenient to say the least

I checked my manual and there is no part listed that I could find - I agree, way easier to buy this type of part - as it's "done", it's "right" and it's usually cheap too ... and you're talking to someone who loves to "roll their own". In this case, I'd go the Pinrestore route and try to make your own. You need two pairs of pliers. One regular set and a set of cutoff pliers as well (linemans)

#1238 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Hello Batfans!! Today,the Stern tech is coming to install the new turntable Stern sent by overnight delivery!Stern also said that more pins with this defect have been found! reading all these posts,tell me this pin needs work!I asked if there was any interest in me bringing this title to the show here in May(PAGG) and no one wanted to even see it!Buying this pin may have been a big mistake!!!

Frustrating to say the least. Wishing you the best in the repair today. Do you have a picture of the failure point so we could all take a look at our own games?

#1240 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Hey MT45,
Can yountake a pic of the connectors on your SLE speaker lights and which board they eventually connect to? On my LE in the diagnostic menu you can trigger multiple speaker lights. I couldnt see any connectors that look like they would go to the speakers or reference to them in the manual.
I wonder if its like the playfield batsignal where the speaker lights connector is there on all models but tucked away somewhere.

The speaker lights both connect to a board mounted immediately to the left of the right speaker.
Looks like they are fed control and power from the board mounted at the top of the backbox - the same one I think that controls the topper. Hope these images help

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#1246 3 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

What is the black zip tie needed for? To secure the piano wire to the Batcopter?

Yes sir - you'll need one for landing gear and then simply use the black screw in the bottom of the Eaglemoss to secure the back portion of the piano wire.

The original Hot Wheels is attached using 2 black zip ties - the Eaglemoss replacement will not work that way

#1252 3 years ago
Quoted from docquest:

Are the speakers lights on the SLE active with gameplay or are they on all the time?

At this point they (and the topper) are active only during attract mode. They go off during gameplay.

Finally cracked 700MM a few minutes ago - good score for me

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#1261 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Toy Mounting.
A coat hanger cut flat, can be tapped to the same thread size, as
standoffs, making an easy female-female threaded connection.
Further, spray painting it to color taste makes it look professional.
The other side can be tapped and threaded into many toys.
Love the Piano Wire method too, when weight and invisibility work well.
Ive also taken a myriad of stiff springs and used that, as the toy will move with nudges, and resist breaking from Air balls.

That is a killer idea Art. Especially combining with a standoff. Gives lots of flexibility. ..

#1285 3 years ago

Give us an update when you can Ice. Post a few more pics of underside of turntable. Maybe somebody will spot something ...

#1434 3 years ago
Quoted from thundergod76:

Has anyone discussed how to adjust the turntable height?

Same question ... mine surrounds the smaller TT inside the larger one

#1450 3 years ago

Just finished framing my Mondo print of the Batmobile (by Tom Whalen)
This is a 2016 limited edition release of 300 signed and numbered 24" x 36" (big!) prints

Framed this one at 30" x 40" to allow for a nice purple mat to match the print.
I'll probably do the Utility Belt print with an orange or yellow mat

Going in my office next to the Kevin Tong Batman Utility Belt print that I purchased but has not yet arrived (same size 24" x 36")

Should look great together - man are they are huge!

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#1456 3 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Love those Mondo prints! I have Mondo's Frankenstein, The Mummy, The War of the Worlds, Forbidden Planet and The Day the Earth Stood Still matted and framed in my game room.

I'll bet those are awesome - can you post a pic when you get a chance?

#1457 3 years ago

Catwoman mod install details for those that want to try it. Much thanks to PiperPinball for getting me started. Couldn't have done it without his help

Catwoman is a Hallmark Christmas ornament- try Ebay
LED is from Model Train
Get the 1.8MM blue one (or whatever color you want) and select 3volt and then 14" leads

You'll also need a resistor in 200ohms (although I used 150ohms and it is still working)
I order a lot of wire for mods from Jameco and they also have resistors

You'll need some piano wire (or stiff wire of some type)

I order my piano wire from Pinrestore

Get the thin kind (0.047)


Put the LED and its associated (very thin) wiring along the Catwomans body
Place the 1.8MM LED directly behind the existing "jewel" she is holding in her right hand
Go along the back of her raised arm, behind her head, down the middle of her back and then down her right leg
Strap tie along the way (I think I used about 5 of them)
Use a black sharpie to "black out" the red lead wire
Use your E6000 adhesive to put a thin bead of E600 along the entire wire length
Let it dry and hour or so
Cut the strap ties EXCEPT the one at her ankle (you cut that one later in order to add the piano wire captive in the same spot BUT leave it for now as all your tugging and moving things might pull the wire away from her ankle and then yank it off her entire back)

Slide the appropriate diameter heat shrink tube onto the wire all the way UP TO her ankle
Use your heat gun to shrink and protect this thin wire

Drill a small hole using a 1/16th bit into the base of her head (see pic)
Bend your piano wire so it conforms to the back of her body
Insert the piano wire into the hole in the base of her head, the wire should now fit nicely into her head and bend right at her ankles
Cut the existing strap tie at her ankle and add a new one in the SAME spot but capture the piano wire this time
Wish I had the measurements for what length wire to start with BUT the easiest way is to get the wire bent properly around her then inserted into her head, then make the final rough bend toward the mounting bolt/nut.
Then you can estimate length and cut the wire LONGER than you need by say 1". Fiddle with it until she appears right, straight and her foot is just touching the plastic behind the cat on the ramp.
Finally, make a half loop that will be placed below the nut of the plastic for mounting

Solder in your 200ohm resistor on the positive leg side of the led feed
Add more shrink tubing and extended wiring to reach your tapping point for power (as needed)
I added about 12" of extra wire just to make sure I had enough to work with once I settled on my exact tap location

Feed the finished wiring down the same hole used for the left habitrail switch
When you lift the playfield you'll see that (to the right) are several GI bulbs
I tapped into the green and green/yellow wires below there using quick taps
This LED was either polarity sensitive or maybe I had a bad contact on my quick tap because I had to reverse my taps after install (pain in the butt so you might want to simply touch the end of your bare wires to the feeder wires you will be using to ensure you are getting the LED to light properly)
Clip on your quick taps and slide in your wires
I then used a Scotch mounting square under her foot - I just cut it to size
Holy too many steps Batman - you're done! link »

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#1471 3 years ago

Very nice Mondo posters! Super framing and color combos using double mats. Well done

#1472 3 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Nice job!
Try this wire from Harbor Freight. Better than piano wire

Ordered ... and thanks!

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#1490 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Lloyd reminded me to order the playfield protector. Ordered & shipped. Hope it comes soon.
Anyone sell a pre-cut wireform cover?
i'm planning to take the BM66 SLE to texas pinball festival. So trying to get it all armored-up for battle.
Any recommendations for the lockbar? (pen stripe will probably be gone by end of show if I don't do something).
Wish there was like a mylar-lite that I could put on & then safely peal off after show.
Or maybe find an alt lockbar to swap out for show?
I dunno...

Labnip. I added mylar (not the temporary kind, the pin restore full on kind)

Thread and printable templates here:

#1543 3 years ago

Finally got my Utility Belt print framed exactly like the Batmobile one from my earlier post here

Used same frame but an orange mat for this one instead of purple for Batmobile. Was hard decision as the orange blends with top portion of print but dark blue was worse and the yellow that Hobby Lobby had on hand was not bright enough. Both are getting hung in my office this weekend

20170209_220448 (resized).jpg

#1545 3 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Received the Franchi artwork. Really want to play this pin!

Hope mine comes tomorrow ... Batgirl, The Movie and the Villains. ... need more walls

Wishing you speedy progress on your repair

#1552 3 years ago

2 things ... got my Chris Franchi prints in and hung the movie poster size in the entrance to our theater. Looks really nice.

Also finally got my Mondo prints hung in my office in a stacked fashion - love them!!

20170210_211945 (resized).jpg20170210_114909 (resized).jpg20170210_211919 (resized).jpg

#1569 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Latest seizure warning draft. I think One more color iteration away from settling. This is already very well blended in person.

Very well done sir!

#1570 3 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

Playfield protector installed today.

jfh if you notice any slow down in play, you CAN wax these just like a PF. I did and mine got (almost too?) fast immediately.
Dozen plays later it slowed back to normal speed play - FYI FWIW

#1588 3 years ago

Wife bought me Batman and when he wants to play his own pinball game, smart men step aside.

20170212_095707_resized_1 (resized).png

#1631 3 years ago
Quoted from Sethman:

are you guys talking about the entire turntable, the whole big mech, or the mini turntable (batmobile spinner) section?
I still need to go under the PF and see if I can ever so slightly lower the level on the base of batmobile spinner section. Still get balls hung up on its back edge (center area of the big mech)

Same here ... anyone solves this please, please post results!

20170107_165039 (resized).jpg

#1633 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Try setting the pitch of your game to 7.1. I have not had one hang up with that setup.

Will do and report back - thx

#1673 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Not sure if others did this, but I got tired of seeing through the translight the 2 LCD wires hanging down.
I zip tied then to other wires, now the translight looks better when it's lit up.

Did the same a while back - was annoying and ugly, easy fix!

10 months later
#7531 2 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I do respect everyone's choice on the PF protectors...I just don't use them...always add cliffy's and mylar where I know there will be a potential problem down the road, but the one time I tried a protector, just felt "floaty" to me....Played my BM66LE tons, and wear is about normal, imho, with my other games. Some dimpling, for sure, but nothing out of the ordinary.....lucky, I guess....
Do these newer protectors really eliminate dimples and lay flat enough to give a great "ball on wood" feel? Just curious, as I've got 2 NIB in my future...(AlienLE and POTCCE)

mk6pin to answer your question in a word ... yes. I can barely tell the difference. If anything, be careful of waxing on top of the protector - makes the ball speed incredibly fast (unusually so). I have them on 4 games and will be installing them on my GBLE over the holiday as well. Here are some threads of my notes, thoughts and installs.

Couple of comments:
They still allow "some" dimpling but much, much less and not as deep
They all DO show some mottling (see AC/DC thread for what that is) - all cosmetic but it's there
You do not have to completely tear down a game to install - there are ways of cheating this (cuts, etc.)

Finally. I would only add them to my games that are

A) potentially more collectible/valuable or
B) have some inherent risk to damaging the art (like my BBTS where I purposefully removed the bubbling mylar)
C) have an issue with cupped inserts or in the case of my IMVE, inserts that worry me from a future "wear" perspective

I have 14 other games that I have no plans to add them to at all.
Hope this helps





#7629 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

Yes, the code is the same. I presume the code reads a value in ROM or some hardware config to get an SLE number to index into a table of original SLE owners. Then there is an optional call (i.e. If SLE number <> 0) at some point after the Batphone rings that has Adam saying "<owner first name>, answer the Batphone!" (Burt Ward has a different message; not sure if it's played at the same time).

As an interested SLE owner, I asked this same question via email about 10 days ago to Stern - no reply as of today ...

#7635 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

I don't expect Stern will ever answer a question about the specifics/logic of code, but it would be a nice surprise if they do.

Agreed ... for a few reasons:

Responding to a customer, when they ask ANY question whatsoever, is basic customer service.
Responding to a customer that purchased the most expensive machine they have ever made would be good customer service
Responding to a specific question about a promised feature from over a year ago, is excellent customer service

Does not feel like I am asking too much

2 weeks later
#8020 2 years ago

Too cold out to work outside so ... I installed a whole pile of mods from the Mod Couple!
Special shout out to them for the extra care and service they gave. The mods look simply awesome!

- Atomic pile
- Computer cases
- Batmobile spinner rocks
- Batphone

Put Docs van in as well!

20180113_161735 (resized).jpg

20180113_181728 (resized).jpg

#8028 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Looks awesome and Proud to be part of your great collection. Question, how long did it take to get your Cliffy's? I always hate to pester him as he's a busy B but I think I ordered mine over a month ago. Just wondering what to expect as Batman 66 is a newer product for him. Thanks.

About a month Dave - that is the one item I did not get to install yet. Maybe today

#8107 2 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

You like it better than the Eaglemoss one? Or because it has the figures?

I would not do the Eaglemoss Batcopter again - my post is linked below and you'll see that it was VERY delicate ... and I mean delicate.

I broke it twice just installing it and I am a careful guy. Was installing Mod Couples Atomic Pile and barely hit the rotor blades and they fell off.

So ... I remember seeing folks recommending the Hallmark version. I compared side by side and the detail is about the same between them.

The benefits far out way any small differences. Sturdier by a mile, waaay less expensive and has the characters in it - heartily recommended over the EM one

2 months later
#9439 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

So, not only does Danni whoop my high score, she goes on Facebook and taunts Bowen Kerins with it. Wtf ....

Holy multi-billion scores Batman!!

5 months later
#10986 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Any SLE owners visit this thread anymore?

Been busy for a while with health issues last summer and moving, then starting a working ranch but I'm back in the thread and loving where this has gone!

Has anyone heard anything about the "Answer the phone YOURNAMEHERE" callout? The callout is in the code but not yet turned on that I know of. As I understand it all SLE owners had their names recorded by Adam West and it was done to be used with the Batphone feature. I spoke to George Gomez at TPF and he said that it was going to happen but there was some issue (maybe the licensee?)

Downloading new code now!

#11004 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Adam West did special Batphone callouts based on the first names of all those that successfully applied for a SLE.

.... and man would it be great to get that feature as it was promised many moons and many dollars ago

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