This machine is really starting to peak my interest.
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Ok. I have a topper question. I am thinking of buying a premium. If I buy the topper, will I be able to add the projector and have all the game interactions the same as the LE/SLE? If I am correct, it uses node boards in the topper to drive the projector but I wasn't sure if the code was different for the premium vs LE/SLE.
If I can get full functionality with he topper then I would rather add the aftermarket projector but I wasn't sure if he Stern projector had any boards in it.
Quoted from Yelobird:
Haven’t checked in awhile but I thought Stern made one for 200ish for LE owners that did not have the Node boards and one for 250ish for Premium owners that did include the Node boards and game interaction?
So if I find a topper with node boards then I can use the doc's projector with full integration and if not, I can buy a stern projector and use the node boards in it to run doc's bat signal and not need the topper at all? I will probably get the topper anyways just trying to plan my purchases when I get the game.
Quoted from cooked71:
Kind of off topic here, but all 3d printing I have ever seen gets the kind of rough surface with the lines visible. I can understand why it happens, and I think Yelo's printing is the least visible of all the printing Ive seen - particularly his Atomic Pile mod.
But is there a way of eliminating the lines and instead getting a smooth surface or even gloss? For me the downside of 3d printing is that it looks 3d printed. I'm assuming its just the technology hasn't got there yet, but eventually will. Are there new printers that have addressed it yet? Kind of reminds me of the early printers where you could see the dots/squares.
If it is printed with ABS it can be Acetone washed to give it a gloss look. Also you can increase the resolution of the printer to minimize the lines.
Narrowed my first NIB down to a BM66 or Dialed In. I'm
Leaning to BM66 but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
I see some people talking about the blade protectors and it seems like a cool product. I've been doing something similar for years with poster board sheets. I cut two per side and fold them over the top. I use them when putting the playfield back in the machine and during the restoration process. No bells and whistles with the logos and magnets but for a couple bucks it works great.
Quoted from BrewinBombers:
As someone who would have traded B66 for DI a few months ago, I can say with certainty that I would not take that offer now. I still really enjoy DI and I'd like to have one, but in the home, the Batman theme is a lot more fun. DI really starts to feel like generic pinball game to me after awhile. I think it's fun to shoot and I love the various ball paths of DI.
Funny thing is that over the last 4 months or so I have collected some of the generic add ons (Halmark bat copter, motorcycle, bat signal, figures etc) "just in case". I think I am telling myself something there. Lol
Man, These node board problems and the fear of long term reliability has kept me from buying this pin.
Quoted from Yelobird:
No effect and strongly recommend. Keep in mind the Penguin hole is a PITA to install but when your done you will be happy.
Cool. I want to protect it before I shoot the first ball. I restore machines from the ground up so I am used to PITAs
Have you shipped my stuff yet???
I have been following this thread for probably close to a year now and I don't remember seeing anyone post about a change in leg braces in the cabinets. I also searched the cabinet split threads and didn't see an update so I thought I would post. If I missed it and this is old news then I apologize .
My premium has a build date of July 11 2018 and it has upgraded leg braces on it. While its probably not required now, I will probably put a small bracket towards the top of the front cab just to be on the safe side.
Did any Batman's have the service posts or did they always have the service rails?
Wow. Really enjoying this game but man, you need a book to figure out what you are supposed to do. Lol
I don’t know how many times that all of the sudden there is another choice or feature that I activated and have no idea how. No idea how to use the gadgets yet or when multiple things are going on at once, what I should be doing. Don’t get me wrong, loving this game but it makes my brain hurt.
First NIB and I can see me doing it again because as much as I love my older games, this is just a whole different experience.
I know there have been posts here and there about different things but if there is a General write up on strategy/rules, could someone point me In that direction. Even if it’s another site.
Quoted from PismoArcade:
Need a little help....
So I'm replacing the TV on my BM66. It looks like it should be an easy switch out. Even came with simple instructions.
I'm having a really hard time disconnecting the old TV. I don't want to pull too hard and break anything. The back of the TV shows a place for a clip, like something you'd find on a landline telephone line. Having a difficult time finding it on the RJ45 cable.
I just took it off yesterday when I installed the Atomic Pile mod. The little
Release clip is on the outside part of the plug (facing the edge of the TV and not the center) . It’s kind of tricky to get too. From what I remember, I took the two screws holding the TV on and then I was able to get a little better grip on the plug. I was never able to just press it all the way in. and release it but was able to squeeze it just enough to get the cable out.
If you have some needle nose pliers, you might be able to squeeze the release from the back to get the plug out.
This may be common knowledge but I haven't seen it before. This is the exact kind of document I was looking for that actually explains how the rules work and strategy for the game. Too much to learn all at once but if you break it down in sections you can slowly become Batman.
As of now it is current to code .88
I was wondering if someone could check a setting out for me. I am having trouble with the crane stopping on the purple inserts. The crane is overshooting the insert in both directions. When the crane stops, the ball goes past the center and rest on the outer edge of the insert and on some cases it is centered on the black ring around the insert. Some of the inserts it goes far enough that it passes the switch sensor and the crane does not know its over the insert.
There is a setting in Feature Adjustments (#126) that is Penguin motor lag. The default is set to 20. It doesn't matter what setting it is on, I have tried 0 and 100, the movement doesn't change at all. Stern is looking into it but I am just curious if your crane movement changes as you change this setting. Its almost like the software is not using this setting. I figured it would be good information to tell Chaz if other peoples works or doesn't work. Also, the may have been something that broke during a code update.
If you test it could you also say what code you are running. I am the latest .93
Quoted from Yelobird:
I am probably wrong (happens often) but I think motor lag setting is more of a decel/accell ramping speed not in anyway a positioning setting. Positioning is a mechanical adjustment which I believe was covered a few times in this thread a few pages back need to look. From what I read its fairly easy to adjust.
Ok. I will do some research. This is the setting Chaz had me adjusting. Of course it would be nice to have a manual that describes what all these setting do. Some of them are self explanatory and some are not.
I will try and search for the adjustments you talk about.
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:
I've actually been working with Stern on a similar problem. On my game the crane will travel out/left and stop where the opto flag is set (physical adjustment under the playfield on the crane mech)- but when it travels in the other direction, back/right, it always over-travels further than it should. Currently I have the opto flag set to have the crane stop too far when going out/left so when it over-travels back/right it stops on a more centered position over the inserts.
For the software setting (feature adjustment 126) it does work BUT you have to reboot the game after making the change for it to take effect. Lower settings will cause the crane to stop sooner when the opto flag hits and higher settings = longer to stop.
Neither of these fix my issue since the crane always over-travels going back/right. My current plan is to add something to widen the opto flag so it's detected sooner when traveling back/right. I'll post whether or not this works.
Also Stern mentioned they had problems with the crane before which were caused by DIP switch settings and I am waiting to hear back on that.
Thanks for the reply. I never rebooted so that makes sense. I will try the new settings again with a reboot and see if it helps. I searched this thread and could not find the post on adjusting. I don't really think an adjustment will fix my problem since it over travels in both directions.
I actually talked to a buddy of mine and I came up with the same solution on widening the opto trigger as well. If the feature adjustment doesn't work, I might go that route if Stern doesn't have a solution.
For those interested, the crane lag adjustment(#126) fixed my issue of overshooting the inserts.
Quoted from adamross:
Can you please clarify what you did with the setting? I'm having same issue with crane not aligning with inserts
My specific problem was that the crane would overshoot in both directions. If it is only off on one side then it’s probably a mechanical adjustment.
The adjustment you will use is in the feature adjustments. It’s #126 Penguin Lag”. The range for this is 0-100 with 20 being the default setting. When you make an adjustment, you have to reset the machine to get the setting to work. I started with a setting of 10 and I could see improvement. I eventually went to a setting of 0 and it’s pretty darn centered. I never even tried settings above 20 just to see what would happen since I had it fixed.
Hope this helps.
Quoted from PismoArcade:
Thank you for this. I'll try this today.
When you say that you have to "reset" the machine, do you mean just turn it off and then back on?
That’s what I did. But this being my first NIB, there might be someone else that could chime in if if there is a way to do that without turning off and then back on.
Quoted from thundergod76:
Lonzo Big thank you for the info you posted regarding the Penguin Lag Adjustment. I set mine to zero and rebooted the game. The crane mechanism is now almost perfectly centered over each insert both ways! What a difference!!
Quoted from PismoArcade:
Me too....Thank you!
Awesome. Glad it worked
Quoted from TomN:
Btw how active is the magnet for Joker or batphone hits? I don’t notice a ton of action. My magnet is working. I thought I remember it throwing the ball all over the place or even sometimes holding it. Just curious?
Mine only holds for batphone maybe 20% of the time. I am guessing there is an adjustment for that but I haven’t got around to looking for it yet. Lol
Does anyone know if there is a list of game adjustments and what exactly each adjustment does?
Also. Does anyone know if there is a power adjustment for the magnet? I saw the setting to turn it off/on but I haven’t seen anything else. Mine only catches it about 20% of the time when answering the phone.
Have a couple general questions
When I played the game at TPF. The joker mode was the surfer episode. It’s not when I play on my machine. I thought I remember someone saying that you could change the episode to play. Is that correct or did this episode just change with code. If you can change it, how do you.
I have heard in the past about changing channels on the Villian Vision TV. Either I haven’t got to that point or I don’t k ow what to do. I have never really used the small TV yet
Loving this game. A lot to learn. Lol
Quoted from Jahkub:
You can select which villain episodes you want before you plunge the first ball when the Batman logo fades out. Press and hold the right flipper to select the villain, then press the left flipper to select the episode. Press and hold the right flipper again to go to the next villain, ect. ect.
To change between active modes on the lcd, press and hold the gadget button for about a second.
Thank you for the info.
As far as changing the little screen. Is that anytime or just during certain modes?
Quoted from evanc:
Apologies if this has been answered before, a quick search didn't find anything. Sometimes in a major villain mode I'll hit the penguin scoop and it won't kick it out. The screen will say "Shoot for the bat signal" and just kind of wait like it's expecting me to do something. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, but what's the delay about and what am I supposed to be doing there?
In my experience, it’s a longer than normal wait but after the animations are done on the screen, the ball will kick out and you shoot for the left outer loop that has the orange arrow. If you hit it, then you will have 2x for the entire mode.
When I installed .94 code, I went to adjust the Penguin lag and it is now adjustment #136 instead of #126. So 10 adjustments have been added. I haven’t went through to look at what they are. May be related to the new King tut mode or the Holy Multiball.
Art blades and Mirror blades are all personal preference. I don’t care for the art blades on this one. Mirrors are going on my game. But I don’t like the art style on the back panel and that’s what the art blades build in. To me it just doesn’t look “Sharp”.
I didn’t know you could use PB on spike systems. I will have to look into that.
Quoted from MT45:
Been busy for a while with health issues last summer and moving, then starting a working ranch but I'm back in the thread and loving where this has gone!
Has anyone heard anything about the "Answer the phone YOURNAMEHERE" callout? The callout is in the code but not yet turned on that I know of. As I understand it all SLE owners had their names recorded by Adam West and it was done to be used with the Batphone feature. I spoke to George Gomez at TPF and he said that it was going to happen but there was some issue (maybe the licensee?)
Downloading new code now!
I didn’t see it in Pinball browser. You have any idea where they are in the sound calls?
Man, I am on my third attempt to download the code. I have never had an issue before. Both times it appeared to be at the end but they both showed partial downloads and the download screen was closed. Both showed 5.4 gig. Any ideas?
Quoted from txstargazer3:
Even though I am running the latest software, I sometimes get a Villan Vision message that says: "VILLAN VISION UPDATE AVAILABLE" and then it is back to normal next time I turn it on. Any ideas what it is trying to tell me or is it just a software glitch?
Mine did that a few times but it was several updates ago and the code had been installed for a while when it did it.
I think it was mentioned before but it would be cool if you drained in the middle of fighting a Major villain then you would get a cliffhanger clip at the end of the ball.
I love the idea of a bat climb mode but wouldn’t you have to get permission from all the actor’s to use them? Unless you just make it a generic mode.
Quoted from rotordave:
Tick tock it’s almost 12 o’clock!
Bzzzzzzz competition is over. Good times!
Had an enthusiastic competitor trying it this morning - unfortunately he kept starting the modes.
As far as me, i tried hard to crack 1 billion.
I got EXACTLY THE SAME SCORE again!!
Then I got 940m
I had the countdown well over 200m with 5x multiplier ready to hit in 3 separate games, and drained. My slings are brutal, they just fire the ball out the side if they get a chance.
But eventually, I did beat the 952,500,000 this morning.
Yeah. Your slings at “brutal”.
I can’t do the super skill shot (hold left flipper button) mine always bounces off the top post on the left sling. I have tried to adjust the guide but nothing seems to work.
Quoted from jfh:
Ok whiskeytango you are good to go!
Not sure the real knocker kit adds a lot and I still haven’t installed the siren dome covers because it seems out of place to have two when the Batmobile only has one but the rest are primo.
I sold my speaker light kit because I didn’t like the look as much as I thought and went with a couple of docquests logo magnets instead. I don’t think they distract from the TV effect as much.[quoted image]
I have the dome covers and I think they look great. The originals are just bland. I look at it as more of a style and not about how many there are. Unless they are on a car then the number if them doesn’t matter to me.
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:
I have the EXACT same problem. Position is good on the way out (left) but it overshoots about 1/2" - 3/4" on the return to the right. EVERY single insert.
What did we hear from Stern for the fix?
Try adjusting the penguin crane lag. I had to turn mine down to zero. Be sure you reboot the game or the adjustment will not take effect.
There was one BM66 at TPF with bad flipper alignment. I was trying to explain to my playing partners how to play the game and nothing I said was happening. I found out that the code was .70. Holy Bat Crap. Do these people live in a bubble???
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:
Anyone selling the batwing side rails? Marco is out of stock, but they seem too expensive even if they were in stock at $350 for just pair of rails. I pm'd Pinball-Metal but haven't heard back. If Terry can offer lollipop rails for 60 bucks, someone can do these batwings way cheaper than $350.
I’m pretty sure I got mine from Cointaker last summer for $250. It doesn’t appear that they have them anymore.
Can someone please post a picture of the kit installed. Not sure if mine has the fix from the factory or not.
Quoted from thundergod76:
I've thought of this but I'm eyeing some mirror blades and I guess I'd have to pre drill some holes. They're expensive and not sure I want to risk ruining them.
I can’t think of a reason you would need to access those bolts. The only blades that I know of that have bolt holes are the ones with the “nut” is actually on the inside of the cabinet. Since stern is recessed it looks much better without the hole. And if for some reason you need access, just take the three tiny screws out of the blade and remove it. Mine look great in BM66
Quoted from biglaw:
Doing batcopter spinning propeller lights on pad. Special thanks to docquest helping out on how to trigger power without connecting to node board going to make sure bracket works out well also. Quick vid. [quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. What motor did you use and how did you mount it?
Quoted from pintechev:
Williams were only supposed to last - few years?
This is supply and demand. If there are enough games, and there is demand for parts, someone will make them. There are a lot of Spike games out there now. A lot.
It’s all about the node boards. They are specific to the game and Stern isn’t going to make them forever. Will someone else make them or will Stern even let them?
Older games are easier to fix. It will be interesting to see how it works out in the long run.
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