Batman 66 (LE)
Stern, 2016
Batman 66 (Premium)
Stern, 2016
Batman 66 (Super LE)
Stern, 2016You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider goodomens.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Curious on flipper alignment. I’ve noticed my left flipper is a hair below the alignment hole. Is it worth adjusting?
I read someone mention the left flipper should be slightly low to make the orbit easier so don’t want to mess with this if it was intentional.
3D0BF6BD-5313-4D57-ADE9-8A7AEF2C3BE4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Yelobird:Maybe its just me but flippers on games should be aligned so they are straight with the rail and the same on all games. You don't manipulate the flippers to make shots you practice/learn to aim better. Technically you can raise the left flipper 10 degrees and backhand the left loop all day but thats not how it was designed. Just my opinion.
That's what I was thinking as it's not perfect with the rail.
Unrelated I noticed plunging usually awards points (anywhere from 50 to 100k), anywhere to start checking for what switch is causing it?
Quoted from Jediturtle:I used to think this (straight with rail always), but it's incorrect. Flippers should be aligned with the alignment holes (center pointed directly at the hole, unless the designer specifies otherwise, ie JP upper flipper). Most of the time, this will align perfectly with the rail, but some designers (George Gomez especially) design for slightly "flopped" flippers. BM66 is one such game. As for left and right being different, that I have never heard. They should both be aligned with the holes. That said...like everything else, it's your game and if it makes you happy a different way, go for it. But if you want to play it as-designed, alignment holes are important. And the tiniest fraction off can make a big difference in some shots.
When I got my BM66 one of the first things I did was align the flippers to the rails, thinking the alignment holes were wrong. It shot like crap. Put them back where they were designed, and all the shots feel great. When people complain about this game being clunky, I often wonder if their flippers are aligned wrong. Both my orbits are perfectly smooth as long as hit cleanly. I can even hit the right over and over super fast and smooth if I get the rhythm right.
Strange- my right flipper is perfectly aligned with the hole and seems to be aligned with the rail. My left flipper is "floppy?," not aligned with the hole (maybe a MM or two below the hole), and is not aligned with the rail, ball ever so slightly bounces when it transitions from the rail to the flipper.
I guess I should have taken a better photo that showed the rails.
Am I missing something? When I talk about the alignment to the hole I think I'm looking at the plastic bat tip and not the rubber, so I think I'm looking right.
Quoted from Jediturtle:To clarify, there should be a nice transition from the rail to the flipper, but the flipper will not necessarily follow the same "line" at the rail. If you are getting a hop, try adjusting the rail itself a bit. You should be able to loosen the rail screws, shift it a bit to be even with that end of the flipper, and tighten back down. It might be tough to get perfect, but you should be able to minimize any hop.
As for the alignment, imagine a center line down the middle of the flipper bat. That should point straight at the tiny alignment hole. Batman 66 should have slightly "flopped" flippers...meaning if you put a straight edge on the rail, the flippers would point sightly downwards. Many machines would be perfectly straight from rail to flipper.
Yup. Thanks for the clarity. I see the droop in the correct flipper now. The other is def off by a hair. Thanks for the in depth info. Pinside is wonderful.
Borrowing and fixing a friends Batman 66 he mentions the villain vision doesn't work and didn't want to pay the $250 ($300?) needed for a complete replacement, part #509-1002-00.
The node board tested fine, so that wasn't the issue, so I figured I'd tear it apart and see what I could find. Aha a torn ribbon cable was causing the issue. Also what's this a non stern part number? DisplayTech DT028ATFT.
DisplayTech DT028ATFT pulled from the villain vision
It took a bit to figure out how to pop the connector for the display but it kinda slides to the right towards the bend of the ribbon cable
A quick google pulled up some LCD screens in the $30 range ($40 with shipping and taxes) from places like Mouser. But wait! It seems the display has been replaced by a newer version that is only selling for $15 on Arrow (linky), which translated to ~$22 after shipping and taxes, score! DisplayTech DT028BTFT
I checked the pinout reference sheets and from what I could tell the ribbon cables where the exact same as was driver (ILI9341). The manufacture mentioned the only significant change was an increased efficiency due to new LEDs within the backlight, so it should work, right?
Well it does! So if anyone is having display issues with the little Villain Vision and your node board tests fine the display is cheap. Also the new one uses less power, yay!
Quoted from thundergod76:This is excellent info GoodOmens...thank you! I'm gonna grab one of these displays for a backup. By the way, know anything about Node board repair?
I do not know anything about node board repair. The issue was the display was completely black but if you went into diagnostics no node errors would come up (That’s what I meant by testing). When I took it apart there was an obvious tear in the ribbon cable on the display that I think severed the power portion. As the tear was obvious I didn’t do any further diagnostics and just ordered the replacement lcd.
The LCD was a drop in replacement so was an easy fix once I figured out that connector I highlighted above. Was non-intuitive to push it towards where you insert the ribbon cable.
Quoted from JMCFAN:Ok,...anyone seen this...?? Its gone after a power cycle...
[quoted image]
I haven’t seen that but there is a tab in the service menu where you can manually check for villain vision updates. Maybe check that?
Quoted from Jpbogart:Thanks. The plastic post I have. It’s the metal stud that fits into it that I need. I was hoping the part# would be listed in the manual but no luck.
I'd email Stern. They should be able to tell you the exact part number.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:so i have a batman 66 premium where the TV lcd on turn table is washed out and almost just pure raster. was curious if anyone has an idea on what I might be able to replace it with? couldn't find a schematic for the video pcb running the lcd. any help us appreciated, thanks.
As mentioned previously I'd inspect the ribbon cable on the LCD screen to see for any obvious tears. I had one that severed the power rendering the display black. A tear elsewhere could probably cause some funky colors. If the node board is fine the display is cheap - might be worth a shot even if the old screen looks fine. Either DisplayTech DT028BTFT or DT028ATFT (original) are a drop in replacement.
Another idea would be to unseat and -reseat the CAT 5 cable going to the node board, or even the ribbon cable itself. If you look at my original photos the black part of the connector pops to the outside of the board that should then let you unseat the ribbon cable and free the LCD screen.
Good luck and let us know your results!
Quoted from GoldenOreos:I ordered a display to try to swap in. the screen that's currently in there works fine, idk if you know about arcade monitors but it looks like the fly back is turned up to high causing raster to fold over colors. that's the only way I know how to describe it. hopefully when the screen arrives it should be a quick swap out.
The new display work for you? Don't leave me hanging!
Quoted from rai:If anyone can please elaborate on the crane fix. ie the ball doesn't line up with the inserts. The lag function doesn't do anything on my machine, I can't understand the opto flag adjustment that was posted above.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/264#post-4976302
Loosen the screw shown and slide the metal piece forward or backward slightly. It takes a bit of trial and error. Take a photo before moving it so you know where it is.
Basically the tab that hangs over tells the machine where the crane is based on what opto beam is being broken. The tab breaks the beam (like when a ball breaks an opto beam) and there is an opto for each insert above the machine. You move it forward or backwards to break the beam earlier or later. Make sense? The opto lag adjustment tells the machine how long to wait once the beam is broken to stop the motor.
Quoted from Jasonba:Any one have any idea what may be the cause of this issue with my Villain Vision screen. Is it likely just a connection or could it be the screen itself?
[quoted image]
Try reseating the connector but could be something torn on the ribbon cable itself. The screen is cheap - I’d replace it if you don’t see anything wrong with the connection.
See for part numbers and tear down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/319#post-5717911
Quoted from GoodOmens:Try reseating the connector but could be something torn on the ribbon cable itself. The screen is cheap - I’d replace it if you don’t see anything wrong with the connection before tackling the node board.
See for part numbers and tear down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/319#post-5717911
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider goodomens.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread?tu=goodomens and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Cream Ridge, NJ