interested
So when I first looked at the factory ramp it did seem like the tight turn was a bit to aggressive at the transition. Would it be a good idea to design in a mellow turn into the form at the transition to stop the ball lift problem??
Quoted from legionsoup:Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is this after-market ramp that's being worked on to replace the current ramp that has the clear plastic to keep the ball on the rails?
Let's say I'm interested. How difficult would it be to install if I've done very little/no real work on a pinball machine? (I've changed some fuses, changed out DMD for a color DMD, and added some really easy mods).
If you can change out a DMD for a ColourDMD you shouldn't have a problem swapping out a ramp!
Plus you can always come back and ask the rest of us here if you get stuck, wouldn't be too hard to post a step by step photo guide for you either.
Quoted from Bonnevil69:So when I first looked at the factory ramp it did seem like the tight turn was a bit to aggressive at the transition. Would it be a good idea to design in a mellow turn into the form at the transition to stop the ball lift problem??
Would a fully enclosed wireform at the beginning cancel out the negative effects of the tight turn? I saw the current design has an almost open (3/4) wireform at the beginning which is pretty cool. I am not against a fully enclosed wireform at the beginning if it means you can copy the factory ramp minus the ball hops.
If it is a problem point which from what I read on here it seems to be. A solid hoop with fade back rails would work but it would lose momentum by hitting the form top. Just trying to get this right with minimum revisions that will take good play time away from Mark
Quoted from Bonnevil69:If it is a problem point which from what I read on here it seems to be. A solid hoop with fade back rails would work but it would lose momentum by hitting the form top. Just trying to get this right with minimum revisions that will take good play time away from Mark
Yeah loosing the speed of the ramp would suck a little, the ramps on this game are super fast and smooth when the ball doesn't jump off, so whatever works best to keep that speed I would be happy with.
Would there be away to keep the gate or make it optional for users to mount their ramp switches? As ugly as gates are I would like to keep both ramps looking aesthetically the same/factory.
Quoted from Bonnevil69:So when I first looked at the factory ramp it did seem like the tight turn was a bit to aggressive at the transition. Would it be a good idea to design in a mellow turn into the form at the transition to stop the ball lift problem??
I really think that raising the back of the ramp at the point and dimension measured will keep the ball in, and no momentum lost (hence no deed to mellow the turn).. The partial loop should be fine, and looks great.... not convinced it will even get hit. I played mine ALOT with the plastic completely off, after I raised the back of the form at the divertor (playfield at 7.2 degrees), and the ball stuck in quite nice, even a nice flow actually, no bouncy balls or flying off the ramp.
Real problem is the entire wireform is too flat for that sharp of a turn, and wobbly, which slows the ball. With the new design, the ball will travel up the ramp, UP the form, settle in, and blaze around the turn......
Quoted from legionsoup:Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is this after-market ramp that's being worked on to replace the current ramp that has the clear plastic to keep the ball on the rails?
Let's say I'm interested. How difficult would it be to install if I've done very little/no real work on a pinball machine? (I've changed some fuses, changed out DMD for a color DMD, and added some really easy mods).
Yes. The first plastic flap didn't completely stop the ball from flying off, hence the added, longer version (actually trapped the ball where it was trying to lift in the tight turn. The extended plastic proved my point that the back of the ramp had to be repitched (like a roller coaster turn) to compensate for the sharp turn.THE PROBLEM IS NOT THE TRANSITION FROM THE RAMP TO THE FORM, or a small piece of plastic would have fixed it.....
Second point - this WILL be a bit harder to install than a couple of screws. Design calls for (2x) more connection braces, and the plastic will be completely gone. This means the catwoman plastic will need to be screwed or riveted to a flat bat stock across the top of the new ramp.
not a biggie, but I would think it would take about an hour, start to finish (2 nuts under playfield, reattach wire to underside of ramp, reattach and adjust switch, etc.)
Quoted from Bonnevil69:If it is a problem point which from what I read on here it seems to be. A solid hoop with fade back rails would work but it would lose momentum by hitting the form top. Just trying to get this right with minimum revisions that will take good play time away from Mark
That's not the problem....don't do it!!!....... this would only flatten the form even more, and slow everything down (including not fixing the real issue)
I had mine playing lighting fast, no bobbles, no plastic, but the ramp wobbling every time the ball went through it drove me crazy....
Reading your posts MK6PIN 2 things are clear, firstly you have put a lot of time and thought into this ramp already and secondly you are the right man for the job along with Bonnevil69 to make that left ramp kick ass!
Quoted from J85M:Reading your posts mk6pin 2 things are clear, firstly you have put a lot of time and thought into this ramp already and secondly you are the right man for the job along with bonnevil69 to make that left ramp kick ass!
Ha....I've put in TOO much time on this ramp.......I've got a blanket over the machine right now because it haunts me when I stare at the playfield...I'm quite sure Matt is growing weary of me with dimensions, thoughts, but am also quite sure this ramp WILL kick ass.
Truly believe it will be as beautiful as it is functional....we are strange hobbyists to obsess over things like this...I just want it right..
Quoted from MK6PIN:Ha....I've put in TOO much time on this ramp.......I've got a blanket over the machine right now because it haunts me when I stare at the playfield...I'm quite sure Matt is growing weary of me with dimensions, thoughts, but am also quite sure this ramp WILL kick ass.
Truly believe it will be as beautiful as it is functional....we are strange hobbyists to obsess over things like this...I just want it right..
George should have designed this thing right to begin with he often touts he is an engineer at heart, maybe he should give you a slice of his role, you could be VP of Ramp Design
Quoted from J85M:George should have designed this thing right to begin with he often touts he is an engineer at heart, maybe he should give you a slice of his role, you could be VP of Ramp Design
Agreed.....wishing they would have taken a little more time and finished some of the little things. I love the machine, and would have still bought it.
No thanks on the VP role, though....hoping my ramp days are over after this one!!!! I have to provide engineered proof of concept stuff all the time at my real job....
Does the switch have a connector on it ? I think I will ship the part with a switch aready installed if it does
Quoted from Bonnevil69:If it is a problem point which from what I read on here it seems to be. A solid hoop with fade back rails would work but it would lose momentum by hitting the form top. Just trying to get this right with minimum revisions that will take good play time away from Mark
Solid start with fade back rails would make sense as airballs were a problem originally. The ramp is short and steep so airballs seem unavoidable. But solid play testing from mk6 will show up any problems.
MK6PIN make sure you do some testing at lowered gradients also as not everyone has their games at 7deg (I do and haven't had airball problems, but I know many like their games more towards 6.5).
Quoted from Bonnevil69:Does the switch have a connector on it ? I think I will ship the part with a switch aready installed if it does
There's a 2 pin molex connecting the switch. The wire lead on it is about 8". Not at home or I'd snap a pic for you
The problem with the initial plastic that shipped with the game, is that it was too bendable. The bigger plastic isn't any stronger, it's bolted down in the rear, that's what keeps it in place.
I cut a piece of lexan the exact size as the original and it works perfectly. Doesn't bend at all and the ball still travels fast on the ramp.
Quoted from Bonnevil69:Does the switch have a connector on it ? I think I will ship the part with a switch aready installed if it does
No....soldered w heat shrink ( at the switch...may have disconnect under pf...have to look)....think sending it with the switch you prefer already installed is a plus though...this way the arm is bent correctly
Quoted from MK6PIN:No....soldered w heat shrink....think sending it with the switch you prefer already installed is a plus though...this way the arm is bent correctly
The wires run under the playfield and connect with a 2 pin molex...
Quoted from cooked71:Solid start with fade back rails would make sense as airballs were a problem originally. The ramp is short and steep so airballs seem unavoidable. But solid play testing from mk6 will show up any problems.
mk6pin make sure you do some testing at lowered gradients also as not everyone has their games at 7deg (I do and haven't had airball problems, but I know many like their games more towards 6.5).
The 7.2 cured the rotisserie ball hang up as well. I'll experiment at 6.5 .....
Quoted from Zdoor:The wires run under the playfield and connect with a 2 pin molex...
Thanks...not home to look under pf
Quoted from Trekkie1978:The problem with the initial plastic that shipped with the game, is that it was too bendable. The bigger plastic isn't any stronger, it's bolted down in the rear, that's what keeps it in place.
I cut a piece of lexan the exact size as the original and it works perfectly. Doesn't bend at all and the ball still travels fast on the ramp.
The replacement plastic was also substantially longer....did you raise the pitch on the back w foam ( like many) to cure the problem, or saying just the lexan did it ( if that was the case, the ball would be hitting the underside of the plastic)
Quoted from MK6PIN:Thanks...not home to look under pf
I only know because I just removed and reinstalled the ramp to powdercoat...
Quoted from MK6PIN:The replacement plastic was also substantially longer....did you raise the pitch on the back w foam ( like many) to cure the problem, or saying just the lexan did it ( if that was the case, the ball would be hitting the underside of the plastic)
Lexan fixed it. Ball still hits it, but the lexan has no give in it like the original plastic.
Quoted from cooked71:Solid start with fade back rails would make sense as airballs were a problem originally. The ramp is short and steep so airballs seem unavoidable. But solid play testing from mk6 will show up any problems.
mk6pin make sure you do some testing at lowered gradients also as not everyone has their games at 7deg (I do and haven't had airball problems, but I know many like their games more towards 6.5).
The ramp is short and somewhat steep...agreed..
The problem is that the wireform didn't follow the pitch up ( too flat), causing the ball to float ( plastic knocked it back on the rails).Without the form raised in the back, the ball would fly off either there, or after it tried to make the corner, as it never came " down" to sit on the rails.
This is why I'm convinced Matts design will work ( he hasn't shown the additional braces yet, which change the pitch of the form). Fade back rails will slow it down, I fear....
No worries, I'll flog it well
Quoted from Zdoor:Getting pinstriped The end of this week. Can't wait. Have had the game apart for 2 weeks...
Ditto...Longer here...I'm dying ...
What color did you go with for coin mech housings? Took your advice and trying Chrome....
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Lexan fixed it. Ball still hits it, but the lexan has no give in it like the original plastic.
Your lexan looked great, btw....did you happen to do one for the right side? Aesthetically, that would be the finishing touch for me, as I don't like the clear. Translucent Purple would kill it. PM me if you would be willing to do that, I'll gladly buy one from you....
Quoted from MK6PIN:Ditto...Longer here...I'm dying ...
What color did you go with for coin mech housings? Took your advice and trying Chrome....
Still playing around with it. Going to try a few colors once the pinstriping is finished. Was thinking of adding some art on the door
Quoted from Zdoor:Still playing around with it. Going to try a few colors once the pinstriping is finished. Was thinking of adding some art on the door
Pinstriping will kill, Gio.....
FYI....if I thumbed up your " interested" post, I'm adding your name to the "potential" list, and will cross reference w the pm'd I've received.
Will give to Matt once this has wrapped up, as he will ultimately decide pricing, quantity, etc.This will be his to market as he sees fit ( after I get mine......).
I have a dream.....finished code and a killer ramp to make this game the best it can be. Batman would be in favor..
Quoted from chet218:I came back to 23 new messages after a couple of hours. A part of me thought code had been updated
Wrong part of you......we're just screwing with the ramp
Quoted from chet218:I came back to 23 new messages after a couple of hours. A part of me thought code had been updated
I think this wireform is the next best thing.
Love the ramp work Mark!
Back from a blowout Vegas football weekend. Big fantasy football drafts! No time to get over to Freemont's pins at NYNY this time.
And of course it was my wife and I's anniversary. Major props to her for hanging out for football. Of course there was plenty of slots for her to blow $$$ on, small price to pay.
Won a few bucks on the Batman slot machine. New Sharknado slot was fun.
Not even gonna ask for a code drop this week. It's gotta be coming soon enough now?!
Update:
Just had a great chat with Matt....good guy, and meticulous in regards to detail...guy knows his stuff...
He's finishing the form details, and will be sending it to me by weeks end. We will use the original ramp to start, as our focus is the flow/ stability of the form initially. We want to get it back in my game asap, so I can put it through the paces, if adjustments are needed. I should be able to install mid week, and get at it. Will thrash to the best of my abilities. My Son in Law plays non stop when he's here, and always manages to break something on a machine when he's here. Going to give him plenty of time on it, as well...
I've gotten a lot of requests/ interest already, and Matt will be prepared to crank these out, once we're happy w performance.
He will elaborate when time is right regarding pricing, etc. Shared that he will build a batch, then color to request ( he doesn't do preorders...hooray). I personally have no idea what the cost will be.
This is happening...a crazy fun ramp shot awaits!!!... Very, very excited......mark
Right side doesn't need the lexan. If my plastic on the right side were to crack, then I'd make one.
Well I Finally joined the Batman LE club today thanks to an Amazing local Pinsider #Kklank. He is letting me relive my childhood entertainment with one of the cleanest (not sure he ever played it) examples I ever seen! My kids and even my wife Love the theme and we are proud to make Batman LE #97 "Bat Jets" part of our collection for a Long time!! Minor coincidence, I get Bat Jets and I sell Water Jets for a living.... Anyway, within the next month I hope to have this converted to a 100% SLE-clone to finalize my vision. While waiting for the machine I have collected every toy, waterjet a mirror copy of the SLE speaker acrylic parts, and the pin striping goes on tomorrow! I do feel a bit guilty joining this group so late in the game with all that you have waited on software wise. For me the first code drop counter is only day one! sorry... Learned a lot on this group and plan to share my modifications etc with the group as I progress. Same Bat Channel!!
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Right side doesn't need the lexan. If my plastic on the right side were to crack, then I'd make one.
Agreed..just looking for the color....
Quoted from Yelobird:Well I Finally joined the Batman LE club today thanks to an Amazing local Pinsider #Kklank. He is letting me relive my childhood entertainment with one of the cleanest (not sure he ever played it) examples I ever seen! My kids and even my wife Love the theme and we are proud to make Batman LE #97 "Bat Jets" part of our collection for a Long time!! Minor coincidence, I get Bat Jets and I sell Water Jets for a living.... Anyway, within the next month I hope to have this converted to a 100% SLE-clone to finalize my vision. While waiting for the machine I have collected every toy, waterjet a mirror copy of the SLE speaker acrylic parts, and the pin striping goes on tomorrow! I do feel a bit guilty joining this group so late in the game with all that you have waited on software wise. For me the first code drop counter is only day one! sorry... Learned a lot on this group and plan to share my modifications etc with the group as I progress. Same Bat Channel!!
Welcome to the club! But isn't that the Batman Returns bat signal?
Quoted from thundergod76:Looks great Yelobird! Wonder how Doc is doing modifying his Batsignal for the topper?
I was not happy with the lack of focus on it. With the location I had it was just too fuzzy to look decent. I might just end up getting the official Stern version.
I've also been looking at the "rotating" red beacon on the LE/SLE toppers. Why settle for just 10 LED's when you can have 108 LED's! I'll post some pics soon when its fully operational.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batman-66-official-club-thread/page/91 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.